Now’s the Time to Plant Those Orange Trees

Gardening: Fragrant beauties produce fruit for up to 50 years. Get them in the ground before it’s too hot.

When Orange County was named in the late 1800s, there were more grapevines here than orange trees. Real estate agents pushed for the word “orange” because they felt it evoked a salable Mediterranean flavor. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that the orange industry took off.

These easy-to-grow trees produce fruit for up to 50 years and are an attractive landscape addition with their glossy green leaves and fragrant blossoms that attract bees.

Now is a good time to plant an orange tree because it will have time to set down new roots before really hot weather comes.

You can find a variety of common and more unusual orange trees in nurseries, including dwarf varieties that are good for containers and small yards, says Laurie Mazzella, new plants manager at Monrovia Nursery in Azusa, a wholesaler that sells to nurseries throughout Orange County.

“A standard orange tree will grow 20 to 25 feet, but on dwarf root stock like the Flying Dragon type, there are many orange trees that simply become an 8-foot mound,” she says.

Oranges come in two main varieties. The most popular for the home gardener are navels. These large, thick-skinned fruits have no seeds and the segments pull apart easily.

One dwarf navel variety that will grow just 6 to 8 feet tall is the Dwarf Lane Late navel orange, Mazzella says.

This has fruit that matures later than most oranges.

In full-sized trees you’ll find the standard Washington Navel. It makes richly sweet oranges that have crisp, yet tender flesh. The fruit ripens early December through February and holds well on the tree.

The other kinds of oranges are Valencia, which are in season May through November. These have smaller fruit, thin peels and are excellent for juicing. One Valencia that Mazzella suggests is MidKnight, a nearly seedless fruit that matures early and holds fruit on the tree for months.

Gardeners looking for something different could try blood oranges. The Moro Moro has reddish-orange skin with a deep red, almost burgundy flesh that is very juicy. Its exotic flavor has been described as orange with overtones of raspberries or strawberries.

To grow an orange tree in your yard, keep the following tips in mind, says Jerry Wang, a garden shop professional at Green Thumb Nursery in Lake Forest:

* Choose a healthy tree, one with lots of deep green leaves.

* Find a full-sun location that has excellent drainage. If you are uncertain how well the area drains, dig a hole about a foot deep and fill it with water. If it hasn’t drained in an hour, the drainage is poor. Find your tree another home.

* Amend the soil before planting with 50% compost or planter mix, and gypsum, added according to package directions. Make sure the soil is loose at least a foot deep.

* Plant the orange at the same level it sat in the container. Plant too deeply and it will suffocate.

* Don’t over-water orange trees. Their roots store a lot of water, so they are susceptible to root rot. To ensure that over-watering isn’t a problem, let the soil dry out a little between waterings.

* Fertilize orange trees four or five times a year, following package directions. Make sure the fertilizer you use contains iron, as orange trees are susceptible to an iron deficiency known as chlorosis, which causes yellowing leaves.

* Orange trees need very little pruning. Only remove branches that touch or are creating a hazard. Also make sure to remove suckers that are coming out of the base of the plant below the grafted union. These suckers will steal the tree’s energy.

* For containers, use a dwarf variety. Choose a pot that is at least 15 gallons and preferably larger. Make sure to water and fertilize on a regular basis, as the tree has limited access to moisture and food.

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MAY PLANTING GUIDE

May weather is often ideal for gardening. Temperatures are generally mild and the soil is warm, so plants take off quickly. If conditions are unusually hot, don’t forget to water more often. It’s also a good idea to shield new transplants from sunlight for a couple of days. Here is a sampling of what can be planted this month:

FLOWERS

Ageratum

Alyssum

Aster

Begonia

Blue flax

Campanula

Candytuft

Carnation

Chrysanthemum

Coleus

Columbine

Coral bells

Cosmos

Dianthus

Forget-me-not

Fuchsia

Gazania

Geranium

Gloriosa daisy

Impatiens

Lobelia

Marigold

Nasturtium

Nicotiana

Penstemon

Petunia

Salvia

Shasta daisy

Statice

Sunflower

Verbena

Vinca

Yarrow

Zinnia

TREES / SHRUBS / VINES

Bougainvillea

Citrus

Gardenia

Hibiscus

Jasmine

Lantana

Morning glory

Moonflower

Natal plum

Rose

VEGETABLES AND HERBS

Basil

Bean

Beet

Carrot

Cilantro

Collard

Corn

Cucumber

Dill

Eggplant

Endive

Kale

Leaf lettuce

Sweet marjoram

Mint

Melon

New Zealand spinach

Okra

Oregano

Parsley

Peanut

Pepper

Pumpkin

Radish

Sage

Soybean

Summer savory

Winter savory

Squash

Swiss chard

French tarragon

Rosemary

Tomato

Thyme

*

Researched by JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS / For The Times

Julie Bawden-Davis

Julie Bawden-Davis is a bestselling journalist, blogger, speaker and novelist. Widely published, she has written 25 books and more than 4,000 articles for a wide variety of national and international publications. For many years, Julie was a columnist with the Los Angeles Times, the San Francisco Chronicle and Parade.com. In nonfiction, Julie specializes in home and garden, small business, personal finance, food, health and fitness, inspirational profiles and memoirs. She is founder and publisher of HealthyHouseplants.com and the YouTube channel Healthy Houseplants. Julie is also a prolific novelist who has penned two fiction series.