Portfolio Categories: LOS ANGELES TIMES

A Rooftop Retreat and a Growing Obsession

Julie Milligan is still unsure how it all happened. One day she’s a Los Angeles family law attorney, the next she’s created an award-winning landscape on a Santa Monica rooftop. Even stranger still, months later she finds herself waist-deep in Hawaiian earth, digging trenches for a 14-acre garden in Kauai.

“Every day I ask myself, how did I go from a successful divorce lawyer to knowing 80 varieties of palm trees?” said the blond, slightly built Milligan as she sat in her garden recently. “If you had told me four years ago that I would be quitting a 12-year career as a lawyer to install and design gardens, I would have laughed.”

It all started with a few herbs and some citrus trees. Five years ago she jumped at the opportunity to buy the condo next door. Her old place had just a 100-square-foot deck; the new apartment offered 1,600 square feet of outdoor space. The deck, which wraps around her spacious two-bedroom condo, sits atop the roof of the unit below.

Roof gardens, common in dense urban areas such as New York City and San Francisco, are unusual in the suburban sprawl of Southern California. But with real estate prices in the region rising, many buyers are finding it more affordable to forgo the land and cultivate plants on roofs, decks and balconies.

“It’s unique to find such a large deck in Santa Monica or even Southern California,” said Milligan. “Suddenly having room outdoors for plants inspired me. I started growing things I wanted to eat, such as citrus, herbs and various vegetables.”

Before long, Milligan, now 40, had created an oasis overlooking the ocean and the heart of Santa Monica that earned the respected Golden Trowel Award in 1999 from Garden Design Magazine. Soon after, she left law to pursue garden design full time, trading in her suit and briefcase for overalls and a shovel.

“I had never intended to quit practicing law,” said Milligan, the daughter of a lawyer and a sculptor. “My transformation actually began when my partner and I relocated to Aspen on a part-time basis and I started setting up a law practice there.”

What occupied Milligan’s attention in Aspen was not the availability of office space or law clients, but rather the effect of high altitude on plants.

“I couldn’t get anything to grow at 10,000 feet,” she said. “It all got smaller, and I became very frustrated. The climate was too severe for gardening, and I just couldn’t live there. So we started looking for a compromise place to live.”

Milligan and her partner finally agreed on Kauai. They bought a treeless, weedy cow pasture, and Milligan dug in, creating a tropical paradise for their second home. Since taking up landscaping full time, she has also designed several gardens in Southern California and intends to do more once she finishes her Hawaiian project.

“I have no intention of going back to law,” said Milligan. “Working with plants woke up the creative side of me. In many ways, gardening is the opposite of being a divorce lawyer. Instead of dismantling something that was once beautiful, I’m taking nothing and making something beautiful.”

In her Santa Monica garden, Milligan has corralled a wide variety of plants into a pleasing horticultural work of art that offers privacy and refuge. She skillfully combines sometimes unlikely partners such as ornamental grasses, bamboo, palms, citrus, fig trees, succulents, birds of paradise, olive trees, ficus, perennial morning glory and various herbs and vegetables–all thriving in containers. A potted creeping fig vine even covers a stucco wall.

The area is especially enticing because of her masterful creation of garden rooms. “Julie has brought the inside and outside of her condo together very well,” said Los Angeles-based French interior designer Valerie Pasquiou. “The garden and the interior are very organic, natural and spontaneous, and they blend well together.”

The interior, which Milligan designed with her partner, Jackie Yellin, a real estate investment specialist, has a lofty, open feel. The condo’s maple and seagrass floors and mix of modern and Japanese-style furnishings flow to the outdoors, where Milligan has created six distinct seating and activity centers, including a dining area outside of the kitchen and a place to enjoy good conversation and a glass of wine, sitting on floor pillows outside the bedroom. A variety of art, including various sculptures (some done by her mother), wall hangings and mirrors create even more of an illusion of rooms.

 
Fountains provide the soothing sound of water, and chimeneas and outdoor heaters make forays into chilly nights comfortable. Lighting from carefully placed candles and torches is simple and subdued, giving a hushed, relaxed tone.

While all of the special touches complete the garden, her use of bamboo, ornamental grasses and grasslike plants pulls it all together and makes the garden an ideal retreat.

“Bamboo is the perfect urban plant,” said Milligan, who uses it liberally to screen out neighbors and other buildings. “It’s beautiful and gives you great vertical screening. Ornamental grasses are also terrific. They’re attractive, low-maintenance and stay green year-round.”

Milligan became inspired to use ornamental grasses when she saw landscaping created by ornamental grass expert John Greenlee, who has designed meadows all over the world.

“It’s been very exciting to work with Julie incorporating ornamental grasses” in both her homes, said Greenlee, author of Encyclopedia of Ornamental Grasses (Rodale, 1992). “Julie has a good eye and a sense of experimentation. The grasses in her garden make you feel more connected to the earth. She essentially has a meadow on her roof that isn’t about fussy flowers or a lot of color. Color is used judiciously. Her garden is much more about texture.”

Grasses such as blue fescue, yellow foxtail, red fountain and zebra are found everywhere, swaying in the wind and creating a hypnotic rustling sound. She also has a number of sedges like Cyperus papyrus and horsetail ( Equisetum hyemale ), a rushlike plant that does well in water gardens.

Having a low-maintenance rooftop garden is a plus for Milligan, who now splits her time between Santa Monica and Kauai. In addition to her Hawaiian garden, she is also working with Greenlee, who has a nursery in Pomona and growing grounds in Malibu, to increase the plant palette on the island, starting with her acreage.

She encourages those even with the smallest spaces to create an outdoor retreat. “Having a garden refuge improves quality of life considerably for those who live in apartments and condos. People may not always realize it, but they crave outdoor space,” she said. “If you can create an environment you can actually go out and live in, you’d be amazed at how it positively affects your entire life.”

Jane Tani agrees. Milligan landscaped her Los Angeles home two years ago. “Within a week, Julie converted the yard into a little paradise,” said Tani, who is a business manager. “She created a beautiful private patio in my front yard where I go just about every morning to drink my coffee and read the paper.”

Milligan’s advice for any garden, large or small: “Get creative and you can fit plants in just about anywhere,” she said, reaching down to take a sprig from mint growing at the base of a potted ficus tree.

“Experimentation is what leads to great gardens,” she said. “Every time I allow myself to think outside of the box, the garden gets better.”

Date: OCTOBER 25,2001
© Julie Bawden-Davis

Careful Cultivation Can Yield Pineapples

When visitors see what Everett Weerheim has growing in his Cypress garden, they’re often amazed.

Twelve years ago after a trip to Hawaii, Weerheim started growing pineapples. Since then his plants have produced plenty of fresh, tasty fruit.

“People can’t believe it when they see fruit on my pineapple plants, because we’re not in Hawaii,” Weerheim said. “The truth is, pineapples are very easy to grow here. Not only do they fruit, they also make a nice ornamental plant.”

For successful pineapple propagation and growing, Weerheim offers the following tips:

* Cut off the top of any pineapple, leaving about a half-inch of meat. Place meat section of pineapple in a solution made from a small amount of rooting hormone and water. Leave pineapple in solution for four to six weeks until it begins to form small roots. Add water to solution if it dries out before roots form.

* Plant rooted pineapple top in a 5- to 15-gallon pot filled with 50% potting soil and 50% garden soil. Cover the roots with soil, leaving the foliage exposed. Place in full sun in a protected location, such as up against the house.

* Expect to see 6 to 8 inches of growth in the first year. The pineapple will eventually grow 2- to 2 1/2-feet tall. In two years, it should begin forming a pineapple at the center of the crown, which will mature in an additional six to eight months. Before the fruit ripens, the plant will send out baby plants that will take over when the mother plant is done.

* Keep the pineapple plant well watered, but not soggy. Fertilize twice a year with a well-balanced food, especially when you see fruit forming.

A slice of small-town America in Orange

Old Towne Orange: A Step Back in Time

Old Towne Orange offers its 11,300 residents a chance to step back in time. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Orange County community of about 1,200 homes has the largest collection of historical houses in California. At its heart is the Plaza Square park, with a landmark fountain dating to the city’s founding in the 1870s.

Drawing Card

Sidewalks and homes with front porches encourage strolling and talking with neighbors in this quiet, low-crime community on the western edge of Orange. Dining and shopping are within walking distance at the Plaza Historic District, which has more than 100 owner-operated businesses, including restaurants, sidewalk cafes, coffee shops, antique stores, eclectic gift shops, various services, and galleries.

Wow Factor

Old Towne has an impressive mix of well-maintained homes in a variety of architectural styles:

  • Victorian
  • Craftsman
  • Bungalow
  • Mediterranean Revival
  • Prairie
  • Spanish Colonial

The Plaza Historic District consists of functioning historic buildings, including a post office from the 1920s, a railroad station, and a variety of churches. The community’s oldest business, Watson’s Drug Store, is an old-fashioned soda fountain and pharmacy that opened in 1899. Hollywood has used Old Towne as a location over the years to capture a small-town, historic feel. Recent films shot here include “Big Momma’s House,” “Clockstoppers,” “That Thing You Do,” and “Small Soldiers.”

Insider’s View

The vintage buildings and attention to historic preservation fuel a strong sense of community. Residents of all ages come together at Plaza Square on a regular basis for such community events as the Christmas tree lighting and the Labor Day weekend Street Fair, started in 1910.

Good News, Bad News

Homes tend to be small in square footage, and renovations are often required. Keeping history maintained can be costly. Though full of restaurants, the plaza lacks a movie theater or other entertainment draw. And there are no grocery stores in Old Towne.

Hot Spots

The northeast quadrant of Old Towne is the most desirable because of its mix of 1877 to 1930s homes. Prices range from $300,000 to $800,000 for 800 to 3,000 square feet.

Stock Report

Single-family homes make up 90% of the housing. Apartment complexes and duplexes account for the rest. Because the houses were built by individual owners, no two are alike.

Report Card

Part of the Orange Unified School District, public schools here fall below average in national test scores. Some residents choose to enroll their children in private schools within Old Towne, including:

  • St. John’s Lutheran School
  • Immanuel Lutheran School

On the Market

In early November there were 11 properties listed for sale, ranging from $265,900 to $779,000.

Historical Values

Single-family detached home prices:

Year Median Price
1990 $228,500
1995 $182,500
2000 $263,000
2001 $305,000
2002 (YTD) $343,500

Sources: DataQuick Information Services; Ricci Realty, Old Towne; Orange County Historical Commission; Greatschools.net; Orange County Community Development Department; www.cityoforange.org.

Orderly or Oppressive?

Some Endure While Others Extol the Association-Run Lifestyle

When Tina Ohmstede moved into a gated condominium complex in Redondo Beach almost four years ago, she had never lived in a community association before.

“I was shocked to find out that certain rules are strictly observed,” said Ohmstede, who recalled an occasion when a friend and her 3-year-old daughter came to visit.

“My friend announced her arrival by giving a little honk on the car horn, and her little girl yelled for us in a cute little-girl voice. I thought nothing of it until a week later when I got a letter from the association board saying that honking or calling to people from the guest parking is against the rules,” Ohmstede said. “I’ve become more vigilant now. When visitors come and begin to talk loudly, I ask them to quiet down.”

Common interest developments (CIDs) are located in many types of neighborhoods, from single-family homes to townhouses and condominiums. They all allow individual owners the use of common property and facilities in exchange for following the rules and paying required monthly dues. These developments have self-governing systems with a board overseeing the association’s operations. Some associations hire management companies for day-to-day operations, while others rely on volunteer managers.

Gated community

For some homeowners, associations are viewed as an advantage, a convenient way to keep order in the community and prevent what they consider to be potential chaos, such as motor homes languishing in driveways and oddly painted units. More independent and creative souls, however, find the rules too restrictive.

Popularity of Associations in Southern California

Like them or not, associations have become a part of life for much of Southern California. Virtually every new development has an association, and there are more than 34,000 in California alone, according to the California Department of Real Estate. One in four Californians lives in a CID, and in Orange County, the figure is even higher—more than 50%.

Homeowner associations grew quickly in the late 1970s as land availability diminished. The passage of Proposition 13, a 1978 measure that slashed property taxes, also resulted in more limited public funding for parks, swimming pools, and other components of residential communities. Developers began adding amenities like swimming pools and clubhouses to their developments and forming associations to oversee their maintenance.

Living the CID Lifestyle

“Living in an association is a lifestyle choice,” said Karen Conlon, president of the California Assn. of Community Managers. “You gain access to common amenities you might normally not be able to afford to build yourself—such as pools, parks, tennis courts, and lakes. But to enjoy these amenities, you must agree to abide by certain standards and rules. Complications arise when homeowners don’t truly understand the association’s plan documents before they buy.”

The governing document, known as the Declaration of the Covenants, Conditions, and Restrictions (CC&Rs), contains the ground rules for the operation of each association. This document identifies common areas and responsibilities, lists rules residents must abide by, and mandates the collection of dues.

“You have a contractual obligation between yourself and the association to pay your dues,” Conlon said. “They are like a mortgage payment. The association has the authority to lien and eventually foreclose on your home if you don’t pay.”

Challenges in Association Life

For Amy Dee, moving into an Anaheim condominium required a major adjustment in attitude. “It was a very humbling experience when I realized that I had to comply with a greater power regarding the exterior of my home,” she said. “If you’re a creative person who likes to do your own thing, association life can be tough. My ego took a few bumps and bruises.”

One of Dee’s challenges was with her mailbox. “We have exterior mailboxes, but I was concerned about my mail getting stolen, so I put a mail slot in my door,” she said. “The rules say that all of the mailboxes must match. When they came by for a routine inspection, they spotted [it], and I had to remove it.”

Another issue was with a satellite dish. Dee had broken a rule by installing the dish on her patio roof. “The association fined me $100 a month for the infraction,” she said. After negotiating with the board, she was allowed to paint the wires an acceptable color. The rules were eventually changed to allow satellite dishes on patio covers due to similar issues with other homeowners.

Perks of Association Life

If you’re in the majority, things can run smoothly in an association community, said Jason Weissberg, who lives in a single-family home in Tustin Ranch. “If you’re not part of the majority, however, you’re out of luck,” he said. “We found that out when we voted to increase the size of the swimming pool and lost. Not enough families found it important.”

Despite restrictions, Weissberg agrees with the belief that rules improve the quality of life. “I much prefer living in a community where everything is well cared for,” said Christopher Ruffalo of Tustin Ranch, a member of the association board.

Some individuals seek out association life for its neat, consistent lifestyle. “I grew up in a neighborhood where there was trash all over the place,” Ruffalo added. “I much prefer living in a community where everything is well cared for.”

Becoming a Board Member

Individuals with the energy and determination to make changes in an association can become board members, which is an elected volunteer position. “I wanted to be a part of the betterment of the community, get to know my neighbors, and find out about changes before they occur,” said Ruffalo.

However, not all board members share the same enthusiasm. Bill Kelley of Anaheim Hills had a different experience when he was a board member. “The trouble begins when you have militant people on the board with unreasonable ideas,” he said.

Benefits and Drawbacks of the Association Lifestyle

Though the rules may seem nitpicky at times, they can also work in your favor, as Ohmstede found when she called her neighbor to enforce the pool closing rules late at night.

Points to Consider

  • Do you like the idea of abiding by rules that dictate how the exterior of your home looks?
  • Check out the association’s CC&Rs. Do they seem reasonable?
  • Are you comfortable living in close proximity to your neighbors?
  • Can you afford the dues?
  • How does the board resolve disputes?
  • Talk to existing residents about the association.

For more information, visit the California Assn. of Community Managers website.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a freelance writer who lives in Orange.

Home-Grown Cooking

Orange County Chefs Use Flavors From Their Gardens to Create Spring and Summer Delicacies

Julia Rappaport enjoys both cooking and gardening, so she combines the two passions by growing a cook’s garden. On her North Tustin property, she cultivates a variety of fruits, herbs, and vegetables that help elevate her meals.

“Tomatoes are my favorite, and this year I’m growing 41 different types,” said Rappaport. She also grows peppers and a wide assortment of herbs such as pineapple sage, rosemary, and Spanish tarragon, along with fruits like Meyer lemon, pomegranate, avocado, apple, and Satsuma mandarin tangerine.

Chef Jamie Kingsland of Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse in Newport Beach agrees that fresh ingredients are key to creating great meals. Like many professional chefs, Kingsland maintains his own cook’s garden.

“Starting with high-quality ingredients from the garden enables you to make good food,” he said. “Herbs you grow yourself and harvest to season dinner are far superior to those you find in the store, adding wholesomeness to any meal.”

Kingsland grows basil, thyme, rosemary, mint, and lavender in his Orange County garden.

Infusing Tastes with Fresh Herbs

One of Kingsland’s favorite things to do with herbs is to infuse flavors into dishes. For instance, he makes a lavender syrup by boiling 2 cups of water, 2 cups of sugar, and a handful of lavender. Once the mixture thickens, he removes the lavender leaves and steeps them again before serving it over fresh fruit such as peaches, pears, apples, and grapes.

“The lavender infusion is a really refreshing end to a summer meal,” Kingsland added.

Herb Uses and Favorite Dishes

Kingsland also enjoys making rosemary and thyme butter for chicken and fish, and making sun tea with fresh mint from his garden.

What Other Chefs Are Growing

Chef Franco Barone of Antonello Ristorante in Costa Mesa prefers to grow garlic, onions, basil, rosemary, marjoram, oregano, and a variety of herbs in his garden. He uses these fresh ingredients in a variety of dishes, including roasts and salads.

“I use a variety of fresh herbs, garlic, and onions when making a roast,” said Barone. He also grows citrus trees to use in salads, with diced lemons or oranges, red wine vinegar, green onions, and herbs.

Using Citrus and Herbs in Recipes

Cilantro is another favorite for chef George Poston, executive chef at Maggiano’s Little Italy in Costa Mesa. He uses it regularly to make salsa for his children.

“It’s really easy to make salsa,” Poston said. “In the food processor, I puree three Roma tomatoes, diced onions, one hot chili pepper, and a squeeze of lime juice.”

Poston also uses limes from his backyard limequat tree, along with kumquats and Satsuma mandarins, to make fresh salsas.

Chef Favorites: Tomatoes and Basil

Many chefs, including Zov Karamardian of Zov’s Bistro in Tustin, agree that no cook’s garden is complete without tomatoes and basil. Karamardian uses these fresh ingredients to make delicious tomato-basil sauces and salads.

“In the summertime, it’s heaven to have a fresh tomato salad straight from the garden,” said Karamardian. “I top garden tomatoes with basil, extra virgin olive oil, well-aged balsamic vinegar, fresh ground pepper, and feta cheese.”

Besides tomatoes and basil, Karamardian enjoys growing mint, rosemary, and thyme. “I often make a pita bread burrito with fresh mint, cucumbers, and tomatoes. It’s a great snack!”

Lemon Trees and More

Karamardian also grows lemon trees, using lemon juice instead of vinegar for many recipes, both at home and in her restaurant.

“Once a lemon is cut, it loses its flavor, so fresh is best,” she added.

Pastry Chef Michelle Bracken’s Garden

Zov’s pastry chef, Michelle Bracken, grows blackberries in her Fountain Valley garden. She uses them to make fresh fruit cobblers, pastries, and salads.

Bracken also has a variety of herbs and uses the edible flower nasturtium to garnish salads.

“In our climate, it only makes sense to grow your own herbs and fruits,” she said. “Not only can you use them to create great food, but they also beautify your garden and make interesting conversation pieces.”

When Feeding Venus Flytrap, Skip the Burger

Venus Flytrap: The Fascinating Carnivorous Plant

Although my first plant was a coleus, I have to credit my Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) for getting me hooked on gardening. While watching the prehistoric-looking plant eat flies and other wayward insects, I became enamored with nature and its possibilities.

When we become adults, childhood discoveries sometimes lose their luster. Not Venus flytraps. These carnivorous plants continue to amaze gardeners of all ages.

“Venus flytraps appeal to the kid in everyone,” said Chris Barnhill, who is in charge of plant collections at the Fullerton Arboretum. “The flytrap looks like it’s been brought down by aliens, and it moves.”

A small plant, Venus flytrap grows to about 6 to 8 inches in diameter. The leaves consist of toothed traps that lure and digest insects. When trigger hairs inside a trap are touched, the plant responds by closing on its prey.

It takes up to a week for a flytrap to digest a fly and other insects. The trap reopens to display the evidence—a shriveled insect carcass.

Although they look like they come from a distant locale, Venus flytraps are native to the United States. In nature, they can be found only within a 100-mile area along the coast of North and South Carolina.

There is only one species of Venus flytrap, but many cultivars, said Leo Song, curator of the biology greenhouse complex at Cal State Fullerton, where he keeps a collection of carnivorous plants.

“Plant experts are continually coming out with new types of Venus flytraps,” said Song, a member of the International Carnivorous Plant Society. “At the university, we’ve discovered a flytrap that resembles a shark and we’re calling it ‘Jaws.’ It’s still in production and should be available commercially in two to three years.”

The flytrap is a warm weather plant, active from April through October. It goes dormant in the winter, requiring the cold days of December and January to store energy and remain healthy, said Peter D’Amato, co-owner of California Carnivores in Forestville, Calif., a mail-order company that specializes in Venus flytraps and other carnivorous plants. The company will have a display at the Southern California Spring Garden Show at South Coast Plaza May 3-6.

“When it’s dormant, the flytrap can withstand very cold temperatures, but the 40s and 50s are ideal,” said D’Amato, author of “The Savage Garden” (Ten Speed Press, 1998, $19.95.)

Flytraps can often be found at local nurseries and via mail order. Grow them outdoors in our mild climate, or indoors in containers. Keep the following tips in mind:

Tips for Growing Venus Flytraps

  • Provide Ample Light: The flytrap is similar to a succulent in its light requirements. Place in full sun outdoors. During especially hot days of summer, move it into partial shade. Indoors, it requires at least two to three hours of sun a day. Place it in an unobstructed eastern, southern, or western window, or any combination of these locations.
  • Water Properly: Flytraps need to be kept moist, and the right type of water is critical. Avoid regular tap water, as it’s too high in salts and minerals. Use deionized, reverse osmosis, distilled water, or rainwater. The plant should sit in standing water in a dish with about an inch of water at all times. Replace the water if it dries out, and ensure the soil never dries out.
  • Feed Well: Most experts recommend not fertilizing flytraps. The plant receives its nutrients from the insects it eats. Outdoor plants will catch insects, but those grown indoors need to be fed. Good food choices include flies, sowbugs, ants, small moths, and spiders. Avoid using hamburger, cheese, or similar foods as they can rot the traps. Touch the tiny trigger hairs inside the trap to activate its closure.
  • Repot Every Two Years: Repot the flytrap at the tail end of dormancy in January or February. Use a soil mix of two parts peat moss and one part perlite or silica sand. Moisten the mix before planting. Plastic pots are recommended for flytraps.
  • Move Outdoors for Winter: If you grow the plant indoors, move it outside during winter months for adequate chilling. Make sure it doesn’t become waterlogged during winter rains, or it could drown.

Where to Find Venus Flytraps

You can find Venus flytraps at local nurseries or through mail order. Here are some resources for purchasing or learning more:

Brew Ha Ha in the Herb Garden

Besides Being Tasty, Fresh Herbal Teas Can Have Medicinal Value

The first time Martha Wida of Westminster made a cup of herbal tea from her garden, she was pleasantly surprised.

“That was by far the best cup of tea I’d ever had,” said Wida, who is past president of the California Organic Gardening Club and a University of California master gardener.

Besides being tasty, fresh herbal teas also have medicinal value, said Tess Calhoun, a member of the Orange County Herb Society, who will host the club’s annual tea on May 6.

“Mint and chamomile tea, for instance, are known for calming the stomach and aiding in digestion, and they’re both really easy to grow in the garden,” Calhoun said.

Herbal tea benefits

“Herbal teas are very helpful for those people trying to live a healthier lifestyle,” agreed registered dietitian Susan Weiner of Merrick, N.Y., a nutritionist for the Olympic Training Center in Lake Placid. “Teas made from the garden are calming, soothing, taste great, and are calorie-free. Iced herbal tea is the perfect alternative to preservative-laden soda.”

Growing and Brewing Herbal Tea

Growing and brewing herbal tea is easy. Many good tea herbs such as mint, chamomile, basil, lemon balm, and anise hyssop grow quickly if planted at this time of year.

Mixing blends is tricky to do, but a treat to taste, said Renee Shepherd, owner of Felton, Calif.-based Renee’s Garden seeds, which carries a variety of herb seeds.

“Creating herbal tea blends is considered an art, and those professionals who create tea mixes are highly paid,” Shepherd said. “Dream up your own fabulous blends fresh from the garden.”

Tips for Making the Best Herbal Tea

  • Use two to three tablespoons of fresh herbs for each cup of tea, and one to two tablespoons of dry herbs per cup. For a four-cup pot, you’ll need 8-12 tablespoons fresh herbs or 4-8 tablespoons dried. Iced tea requires more herbs because you’ll be diluting it with ice. Try four tablespoons fresh or two tablespoons dried per cup.
  • Start with cool water and bring it just to an audible rolling boil. Rinse a china or glass teapot with a small amount of hot water to warm it. Add herbs and fill the pot with hot water. Steep for three to five minutes. Use a tea strainer when pouring.
  • Add sweeteners like sugar or honey after pouring the tea. Or for an all-herbal approach, put some sweet leaf (stevia) in the mix and you won’t need other sweeteners.
  • Try various additions to your tea such as lemon or orange slices, juice, cinnamon sticks, cloves, and fresh ginger.
  • Dry excess herbs to enjoy them year-round. Hang herbs upside down or dry them on screens in a shady area with good air circulation. After drying, strip herbs from the branches and store them in tightly sealed glass jars away from strong light. Replace herbs each season.

Good Tea Herbs

You can use just about any herb to make tea. The following are especially tasty and widely available:

  • Anise hyssop: Has a licorice or anise flavor that pairs well with mint. Its lavender flowers attract butterflies. Grow in full sun or partial shade.
  • Basil: Cinnamon and lemon basil are great for tea. Prefers rich, well-drained soil and full sun or partial shade.
  • Chamomile: Known for its apple-like flavor. Plant in a sunny spot with rich soil and good drainage.
  • Fennel: Adds a sweet licorice flavor to tea. It can grow 4 to 6 feet high and prefers full sun.
  • Lemon balm: Adds a lemon tang to tea. Best grown from plants as it’s slow to germinate.
  • Lemon verbena: Adds a strong lemon flavor to tea and prefers full sun with good drainage.
  • Lemon grass: All parts of this plant are lemon-scented and great for lemon tea. Needs full sun and good drainage.
  • Lemon thyme: A small, shrubby perennial that adds warm lemony undertones to tea. Prefers dry soil and full sun.
  • Mint: Offers a refreshing flavor. Comes in many varieties, including peppermint, spearmint, and chocolate mint. Grows best in moist, partially shaded areas.

Pink Lemonade Tea Recipe

Tess Calhoun of the Orange County Herb Society shares one of her favorite herbal tea blend recipes:

Combine:

  • 1/4 cup dried pink fragrant roses
  • 1/4 cup dried red hibiscus flowers
  • 1/8 cup pineapple sage blossoms (harvest and dry in the fall and winter)
  • 1/8 cup dried citrus flowers
  • 1/4 cup lemon verbena

Add a handful of the herb mixture to a four-cup pot of water.

Additional Resources

  • The Orange County Herb Society meets the first Sunday of the month at 1 p.m. at the Irvine Ranch Water District building, 15600 San Canyon Ave., Irvine, (714) 374-5632.
  • For Renee’s Garden seeds, call (888) 880-7227 or visit Renee’s Garden.

A Green Thumbs-Up for Kiwi

Roger Meyer: A Kiwi Pioneer in Southern California

In 1969, Roger Meyer, a lover of rare fruits, discovered something unique. A fuzzy brown fruit with an intense green interior caught his attention.

“The kiwi immediately caught my attention,” said Meyer, who owns Valley Vista Kiwi with his wife, Shirley. “I was amazed by the fruit’s wonderful taste and its little black seeds.”

It took Meyer years to find plants, and when he did, supply was limited. However, he decided to turn his passion into a business. He taught himself to graft kiwi plants onto seedling rootstocks he had grown and, six years later, purchased a vineyard in San Diego to cultivate the fruit.

Over the past 26 years, Meyer has introduced new varieties of kiwi into local markets, including yellow and red varieties. He sells the fruit commercially and provides plants to retail customers.

Though kiwi has a tropical-sounding name and look, it’s a deciduous vine that requires winter chilling—a rare situation in California. However, there are varieties that fruit well here, despite warm winters. February and March are the ideal months to buy and plant bare-root kiwi, while established plants can be planted throughout the year.

Why You Should Grow Kiwi in Southern California

If you have the space, Alfredo Chiri encourages planting kiwi vines.

“They are a beautiful vine with large hibiscus-like, dark-green shiny leaves and rose-like, fragrant flowers,” said Chiri, a member of the Orange County Rare Fruit Growers. “You can train the vine on a trellis, fence, arbor, or back wall, and it can look stunning. They also produce a large amount of fruit. We’ve estimated that four vines at the arboretum yield between 200 and 300 kilos (440 to 660 pounds) per season.”

Tips for Growing Kiwi

To have success growing kiwi, keep the following tips in mind:

  • Provide Adequate Space: Kiwi is a large, vigorous vine that can easily reach 20 feet. To produce fruit, plant a male and female plant, as they require cross-pollination. However, you can save space with a grafted plant that contains both genders on the same vine.
  • Choose Varieties Carefully: While ‘Hayward’ kiwi is commonly sold in stores, it requires a lot of winter chilling and doesn’t thrive in Southern California. Varieties that do well here include ‘Elmwood,’ ‘Vincent,’ ‘Matua,’ Chinensis species, ‘Cordifolia,’ ‘Anna,’ ‘Ken’s Red,’ ‘Dumbarton Oaks,’ and ‘Meader.’
  • Plant in Full Sun: Plant kiwi in full sun, in the ground. The soil must be well-draining. For heavy clay soil, improve drainage by adding compost and pumice.
  • Mulch Regularly: Use mulch, but ensure it doesn’t touch the trunk of the plant.
  • Provide Support: Kiwi vines need something substantial to grow on, such as a patio cover, arbor, fence, or large trellis.
  • Watering: Kiwi requires plenty of water during the summer. Without sufficient irrigation, fruit production will decrease, and leaves will turn brown around the edges and fall off in August or September. However, kiwi cannot sit in standing water, especially during winter dormancy, so good drainage is critical.
  • Feeding: Use a fruit fertilizer containing nitrogen, or composted manures (keep away from the trunk). Feed the plant three times between March and July.
  • Prune Properly: Winter pruning is important because kiwi won’t grow on old fruiting wood. Prune out old wood in January or February to encourage new growth. For new plants, train one branch as the main trunk.

When to Harvest Kiwi

Kiwi generally requires three years of growth before it bears fruit. It typically flowers in May or June, sets fruit immediately, and is ready for picking from September through December.

To check if the fruit is ready to harvest, cut one open. If the seeds are black, it’s time to pick. If the seeds are still white, leave the fruit on the vine to ripen further.

Common Kiwi Pests

Kiwi plants are susceptible to a few pests:

  • Snails: These pests consume the new growth buds on young plants.
  • Cats: Kiwi roots and buds attract cats, who can damage the plant by rubbing against the buds.

Where to Find More Information on Kiwi

  • Visit the California Rare Fruit Growers website for more information.
  • The Orange County Rare Fruit Growers meet every third Thursday of the month at 7:30 p.m. at the Centennial Farm Silo Building at the Orange County Fairgrounds in Costa Mesa.
  • Kiwi plants can be found at various Southern California nurseries or by contacting Valley Vista Kiwi at (714) 839-0796 or via email at exoticfruit@95net.com.

Season Is Right for Cilantro

Plant the Herb in Fall and Winter in Southern California: Flavor Mexican and Asian Dishes with Leaves and Seeds

If you want to grow big, leafy bunches of cilantro and you live in Orange County, don’t listen to conventional planting instructions.

Garden author Rosalind Creasy said most of the information on cilantro is written for gardeners living in the Northeast and Midwest.

“You will often read that the best time to plant cilantro is in the spring, but that’s not true for California,” said Creasy, author of “The Edible Herb Garden” (Periplus, 1999, $15) and “The Edible Asian Garden” (Periplus, 2000, $15). “It does best here when planted October through February.”

Fall and winter planting is ideal for cilantro because it is day-length sensitive, meaning that when the days get longer, it will go to seed.


“Plant in the fall and you’ll have big, healthy plants throughout winter and into spring,” said Creasy, who lives in Los Altos. “Plant in March or April and you won’t get much cilantro before it goes to seed.”

Growing Cilantro in Southern California

Geri Cibellis of Villa Park is a big fan of cilantro. She sows seed in October and enjoys the herb during fall, winter, and spring.

“Cilantro has such a delightful flavor,” said Cibellis, the past president of the Orange County Organic Gardening Club. “I not only use it in salsa, but it’s a great flavor enhancer for many dishes. It’s even good on boiled potatoes with a little butter or olive oil.”

Cilantro: The Herb of Many Dishes

Common in many Mexican and Asian dishes, cilantro is originally from Asia. The seeds of this annual herb are called coriander, but its fresh leaves are usually called cilantro or Chinese parsley.

  • Flavor: Cilantro leaves have a distinctive, sharp flavor, while the seeds are more mild.
  • Culinary Uses: The seeds are considered a major spice in India and the Middle East, used in sausage and various bean dishes and stews. They are also key ingredients in curry powders and chutneys.
  • Thai Cuisine: In Thai cooking, the entire cilantro plant is used, including the roots.

Tips for Growing Cilantro

A member of the same family as parsley and dill, cilantro has delicate, fern-like foliage and flat clusters of pinkish-white flowers that attract beneficial insects. For the best success growing cilantro, keep the following tips in mind:

  • Full Sun: Plant cilantro in full sun, either in the ground or containers.
  • Start from Seed: Cilantro doesn’t like to be transplanted, so it’s best to plant from seed. Look for slow-bolt or long-season varieties to get a longer harvest.
  • Soil: Provide rich, organic soil. Amend with homemade or bagged compost before planting.
  • Watering: Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Water regularly to maintain moisture until the plants emerge.
  • Spacing: Separate tiny plants before transplanting them to prevent crowding, which can cause the plants to die.

Harvesting and Maintaining Cilantro

  • Harvest Like Lettuce: Pick cilantro from the outside, leaving the center leaves to continue growing.
  • Save Seed: After cilantro flowers and goes to seed, you can use the dried seed as coriander or save it for future planting. Cibellis stores dried flower heads in a paper bag, shakes them to release the seeds, and then stores them in a cool, dry place.
  • Fertilizing: Cilantro typically doesn’t need additional fertilizer unless its leaves yellow. If necessary, use a chemical fertilizer, as organic forms of nitrogen don’t work well in cold soil.

Holidays With Roots

The Choice of Flowers, Foliage and Fruit Can Reflect Personal Heritage as Well as Tradition

The holiday season means many things to many people. Living in a melting pot as we do, we can look around and find myriad holiday traditions. Many of these celebrations involve flowers, foliage, or fruit from the garden.

Hanukkah Traditions

When it comes to decorating for Hanukkah, Carol Goldmark focuses on her collection of menorahs. Goldmark, a resident of Buena Park, places a candelabrum on the dining room table and adds flowers, leaves, fresh pomegranates, and citrus.

“Much emphasis is placed on preparing the holiday table because Hanukkah centers on gathering the family and retelling the story of why we celebrate the holiday,” Goldmark said.

Although gifts are given during Hanukkah, they are not a true part of the holiday, according to Rabbi Lawrence Goldmark, who has been at Temple Beth Ohr in La Mirada for 22 years.


“Hanukkah actually involves religious freedom,” he said.

The Story Behind Hanukkah

The holiday celebrates an event from around 165 BC in what is now Israel. At that time, a non-Jewish ruler attempted to convert the Jews. However, a small group fought the conversion, and after three years, the ruler gave up. During that period, the Jewish temple was desecrated, but it was later rebuilt and rededicated. The term “Hanukkah” means “rededicate” in Hebrew. The eight-day celebration is reflected in the eight branches of the menorah, with one additional branch for the servant candle.

As the Goldmarks light each candle during Hanukkah, they bring in a new flower from the garden.

Celebrating with a Southwestern Touch

When Paul Apodaca, a Navajo, decided to celebrate the holidays 15 years ago, he realized that a European-style Christmas tree just wouldn’t feel right for his heritage.

“I wanted to put presents under something that would make me feel inclusive of the season but not be too foreign to who I am and my roots,” said Apodaca, who teaches courses on American Indians and culture at Chapman University in Orange and is a consultant to the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of the American Indian.

After some thought, Apodaca came up with the idea of creating a Southwestern-style Christmas. He purchased a synthetic cactus that resembles a saguaro, which he decorates with chile-pepper lights, cornhusks, and hand-woven folk dolls from the Southwest, Mexico, and South America.

“Although my cactus seemed like the natural choice for someone with my background, I’ve been surprised to not find anyone else with the same idea,” Apodaca said. “For me, it makes perfect sense.”

Preserving Mexican Heritage

Christmas is also a time for Connie Ortiz to teach her grandchildren about their Mexican heritage.

“It’s important to me that my grandchildren learn about their cultural roots,” said Ortiz, who was born in Mexico. “I try to preserve my culture in my holiday decorations by including significant plants, fruit, and vegetables from the garden.”

At the center of many of Ortiz’s decorations is the poinsettia, a flower native to Mexico. Each December, she buys one or two dozen to decorate both inside and outside her home in Orange.

Ortiz, a master gardener who teaches nutrition for the University of California Cooperative Extension, also creates wreaths for holiday decorations using dried foods important in her culture, including cornhusks, limes, and chiles.

As a final touch, she fills her home with festive bowls of in-season fruit from the garden, such as cherimoyas, guavas, and papayas.

Living Trees Appeal to Owner Taste and Space

Living Trees Appeal to Owner Taste and Space

December 23, 2000
| JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS

Living Christmas trees vary in price, looks, and growth habits. Though options may be limited this late in the season, some nurseries may still have a selection. Be sure to check availability before visiting a nursery.

Recommended Trees for This Region

The following trees tend to do well in this region:

  • Aleppo Pine: A moderate grower, reaching 40 to 50 feet at maturity. Features soft branches and needles. Must be sheared to maintain a dense shape. Prune when most new growth tips have appeared, removing two-thirds of the new growth. Best in a container for a couple of years, after which it must be planted in the ground.
  • Blue Point Juniper: A pyramidal-shaped tree with dense, blue-green foliage. Requires no shearing. Best kept in partial sun in very hot areas. Grows up to 8 feet tall, making it an excellent long-term container plant.
  • Italian Stone Pine: Starts as a stout, bushy tree, becoming umbrella-shaped as it matures. Reaches 40 to 80 feet at full growth. Soft branches and needles. Needs shearing to maintain shape. Prune when new growth tips appear, removing two-thirds of the growth. Lasts longer in containers than other varieties like Leylandii cypress and Monterey pine.

  • Leylandii Cypress: A tall, evergreen tree with a pyramidal habit. Soft, fern-like foliage that does not shed like other pines. Grows quickly, reaching 15 to 20 feet in five years. Best in containers for a few years before being planted in the ground.
  • Monterey Pine: A very fast-growing tree that can reach 80 feet. Features deep green foliage with soft branches and needles. Requires shearing to maintain a dense shape. Prune when new growth tips appear. Best in containers for a couple of years before being planted in the ground.

Nurturing Living Trees Adds a Growing Tradition

Tips for Maintaining a Living Christmas Tree

A living Christmas tree is not only environmentally friendly and fragrant, but its greatest benefit is that it can be recycled year after year.

“Keep a tree happy, and you can use it indoors for several Christmases,” said Chris Greenwood, horticulturist for Armstrong Garden Centers.

Here are some tips from Chris Greenwood and Ted Mayeda, owner of M & M Nursery in Orange, for ensuring your tree’s health and longevity:

Key Tips for Maintaining a Living Christmas Tree

  • Time Indoors: The most common cause of failure is keeping the tree indoors for too long. Greenwood suggests leaving it indoors no more than five to seven days, with 10 days as the maximum.

Proper Placement for Tree Health

“Place it in a bright location, preferably within 5 to 8 feet of an east-, south-, or west-facing window that has no outdoor obstructions,” Mayeda advised.

It’s also essential to keep your tree away from forced-air heating vents, as this will dry it out quickly. If possible, turn off the forced air in the room where the tree is located.

To prevent drying out and damage, spray the tree with an anti-transpirant like Cloudcover, which helps to reduce water loss through the needles.

Indoor Watering

  • Water the tree evenly, but avoid overwatering. Greenwood recommends sprinkling ice cubes on the soil surface to slowly melt and seep into the root ball.
  • Always place a saucer under the tree to catch moisture leakage and never let the pot sit in water to avoid root rot. You can use a turkey baster to remove excess water.

Lights on the Tree

  • If using lights, opt for mini-lights, which don’t generate enough heat to damage the needles.
  • Ensure the lights are wired in such a way that they don’t rest directly on the needles.

Note: Never flock a living Christmas tree.

After-Holiday Care

  • Once the festivities end, move the tree outdoors to a full-sun location as soon as possible.
  • If you plan to keep the tree in a container, transplant it to a larger pot before spring. Use a well-draining potting mix and ensure it has room to grow.
  • Feed the tree with a low-nitrogen, water-soluble fertilizer during spring and summer. Be careful not to overfeed, as this can cause fast, unwieldy growth.

“Once a living Christmas tree becomes too large, it makes a great addition to your landscape or can be donated to a public park or school,” Greenwood added.

Tree Maintenance Throughout the Year

  • Keep the tree clean by washing the foliage and hosing off any dead needles that accumulate around the trunk.
  • Prune the tree in June to maintain its shape and do further shaping in the fall to encourage lush foliage when the tree is brought indoors for the holidays.

Keep containerized trees well-watered, especially during the hot summer months.

In-Ground Planting

If you want your tree to become a permanent part of the landscape, choose a sunny spot with plenty of space, as many pine trees can grow very large.

For more information, contact:

Armstrong Garden Centers: (800) 557-5268 or www.armstronggarden.com

M & M Nursery: (714) 538-8042 or www.mmnursery.com

Growing Holly Makes Holidays Jolly

The Symbol of the Holidays: Thriving Holly Plants in Southern California

We all recognize holly as a classic symbol of the holidays. What many people don’t know is that it’s easy to grow. Choose the right type of holly, Ilex, and you can enjoy festive berries in your garden every December.

Why Cornuta Holly Thrives in Southern California

The cornuta species of holly thrives in Southern California, said Wendy Proud, horticulturist and product manager for Monrovia nursery, a wholesale nursery that supplies holly to local nurseries.

“Cornuta holly likes our long, hot summers, which cause them to produce a lot of berries,” she said. “This species is also a good choice because it doesn’t need a pollinizer to produce fruit like many other hollies.”

Not only do their festive berries and decorative leaves make long-lasting decorations, hollies are also a good background plant the rest of the year, Proud added.

“Holly is a resilient, versatile, drought-resistant plant that can grow just about anywhere,” she said. “It makes a great barrier or security plant, as the foliage is usually prickly.”

Holly Berries and Their Benefits

Holly berries are also attractive to birds, said Steve Hutton, president of Conard-Pyle Co., a West Grove, Pa., wholesale nursery that specializes in holly.

“Contrary to popular opinion, no part of holly is poisonous,” Hutton said. “It is a perfectly safe plant to have in the garden.”

Popular Holly Varieties

Conard-Pyle Co. grows a variety of holly plants, including:

  • “Golden Girl” – An eye-catching yellow-berried form. Requires a male variety for pollination.
  • Berri-Magic Holly – A combination of two hollies ensuring cross-pollination. Produces red fruit and reaches 6-8 feet high and wide.
  • “Dazzler” – Known for its bright-red berries and glossy green foliage.
  • “Willowleaf” – A larger variety, reaching 15 feet or higher, with blood-red berries.
  • I. cornuta “Berries Jubilee” – Grows like a hedge, reaching 4 to 6 feet tall and wide, with cardinal-red berries.

Growing Tips for Holly

  • Plant in full sun.
  • Provide good drainage. Hollies thrive in well-drained soil. Amend heavy clay with perlite or pumice and plant holly on a slight mound.
  • Container Planting: Use an azalea and camellia mix for container planting.
  • Moisture: Keep hollies moist but not soggy. Once established (in about two years), they become drought-tolerant.
  • Fertilizing: Use organic fertilizers such as 10-6-4 or an acid-based liquid fertilizer designed for camellias and azaleas.
  • Watch for pests: Scale can be a problem in mild climates. If you see any, scrape them off gently or consult a nursery professional for treatment.

When you find a small infestation of scale, scrape it off with a finger or a knife, trying not to damage the stem. Or if you prefer, consult a certified nursery professional regarding the proper spray to use.

Additional Holly Care Tips

  • Flowering and Fruiting: Hollies generally flower in springtime, then fruit, but the fruit doesn’t ripen until late fall. Leaves and berries can be cut for holiday decorating, though young plants shouldn’t be stripped.
  • Pruning: Hollies tend to become open and loose in form if not trimmed. Prune and shape in the spring before the weather gets hot.

For more information, contact:

Monrovia: (888) 752-6848

Conard-Pyle Co.: (800) 458-6559

December Planting Guide

Although your thoughts are probably on the holidays this month, there are a number of plants that can be added to your landscape, many of which will add a festive flair. If it rains, allow the ground to dry out for a few days before planting. The soil should be moist but never soggy.

Flowers

  • Alyssum
  • Bachelor’s button
  • Begonia
  • Bromeliad
  • Calendula
  • California poppy
  • Candytuft
  • Carnation
  • Christmas cactus
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English primrose
  • Foxglove
  • Fuchsia
  • Geranium
  • Iceland poppy
  • Impatiens
  • Flowering kale
  • Kalanchoe
  • Larkspur
  • Lupine
  • Nasturtium
  • Nemesia
  • Pansy
  • Poinsettia
  • Salvia
  • Schizanthus
  • Snapdragon
  • Society garlic
  • Stock
  • Sweet pea
  • Sweet violet
  • Viola
  • Wildflowers

Vegetables & Herbs

  • Artichoke
  • Arugula
  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Cilantro
  • Collards
  • Cress
  • Dill
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Horseradish
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mint
  • Mustard greens
  • Onion
  • Parsley
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Strawberry
  • Swiss chard
  • Turnip

Trees and Shrubs

  • Australian fuchsia
  • Australian tea tree
  • Azalea
  • Blue hibiscus
  • Camellia (Sasanqua variety)
  • Cape mallow
  • Flowering maple
  • Holly
  • Westringia

Bulbs and Tubers

  • Allium
  • Anemone
  • Amaryllis
  • Calla lily
  • Crocus (prechilled for eight weeks)
  • Daffodil
  • Dutch iris
  • Freesia
  • Gladiolus
  • Grape hyacinth
  • Hyacinth (prechilled for eight weeks)
  • Lily
  • Muscari
  • Narcissus
  • Ranunculus
  • Tulip (prechilled for eight weeks)

Hybrids: No Longer Just Novelty

From ‘Big Boy’ to Garden Favorites: The Rise of Hybrid Plants

What Are Hybrids?

Mention hybrids to a group of gardeners and you’re likely to get several reactions. Some shun hybrids, others embrace them, and some gardeners aren’t sure what they are.

To clarify:

  • Hybrids (F-1 generation) are the result of a cross between two distinct parent plants of the same type.
  • Open-pollinated (OP) plants are naturally pollinated and reproduce the same variety generation after generation.

For example, breeders might cross two tomato varieties to combine early maturity with great flavor. These traits are uniform only in the first generation of seed.

Hybrid vs. Open-Pollinated

We still grow many OP plants, but hybrids have become popular due to their improved characteristics. Some popular hybrid examples include:

  • ‘Early Girl’ and ‘Celebrity’ tomatoes
  • Many types of eggplants, peppers, and melons
  • Some woody ornamentals and annuals

Vegetables like beans, peas, and lettuce are usually not hybridized, but hybrids dominate other categories.

The First Hybrids

According to Jim Waltrip of Seminis Garden:

  • One of the first hybrids made available to gardeners was the tomato ‘Big Boy’ in the 1940s, developed by Burpee.
  • Some hybridization (e.g., cucumber, broccoli) is bee-assisted, but tomato and pepper hybrids are made by hand.
  • Hand-pollination is labor-intensive, making it initially impractical for commercial growers.

Benefits of Hybrids

Despite initial skepticism, hybrids quickly gained favor for their advantages:

  • Superior disease resistance
  • Uniform fruit and vegetable production
  • Reliable yields and growth habits

Today, nearly all fresh-market tomatoes and 90% of processing tomatoes are hybrids.

Home Gardeners Embrace Hybrids

Renee Shepherd of Renee’s Garden Seeds notes that hybridization brought many wonderful varieties to gardeners, including:

  • Long-blooming hybrid flowers
  • Pollen-free, multibranching sunflowers

Expanding the Possibilities

Wende Proud from Monrovia Nursery highlights hybridization’s ability to overcome limitations of native species:

  • Enhanced color range and compact growth
  • Adaptability to new climates
  • Disease resistance and aesthetic improvements

Monrovia’s Role

Monrovia markets many hybrids exclusively and searches for natural mutations, or “sports,” on existing plants that can lead to new varieties. For example:

  • A branch on a plant with variegated leaves might be propagated to become a new hybrid.

Don’t Count Out Open-Pollinated Plants

Experts still value OP varieties:

  • They promote diversity in the garden.
  • They’re preferable in soils free of disease.

Shepherd suggests using both hybrids and OP plants for a well-rounded garden experience.

Preserving the Past While Innovating the Future

Despite the dominance of hybrids, the genetic material of old OP varieties is safe:

“At Seminis, we maintain all of the old OP seeds in our germ plasm bank,” says Waltrip. “Diversity is key to creating great hybrids.”

Good Gardeners Don’t Just Mow and Go

Landscaping: What to Look for in a Full-Service Gardener

In the last five years, Victoria Michaels has had 11 different gardeners work on her Anaheim yard.

“My neighbors laugh every time they see a new landscaping truck in front of my house. It’s almost embarrassing how many gardeners I’ve had, but I want the yard to look good,” said Michaels, who believes she has finally found a gardener who gives her garden the attention it requires.

Some aren’t as lucky. With the majority of services only mowing and edging lawns, there aren’t many full-service gardeners available, says landscape designer and certified arborist Julie Hunt of Julie Hunt Landscape Solutions in Dana Point.

She reluctantly started offering maintenance. Initially focused on installations, Hunt added maintenance after clients complained their gardens were declining post-installation.

“We finally gave in and now provide maintenance service, which has turned out to be very gratifying,” said Hunt, who says high-quality gardeners watch for potential problems and enjoy what they do.

“It’s fun to watch their garden grow and mature,” she said.

What Full-Service Gardeners Do

  • Mulching
  • Weeding
  • Pruning, trimming, and dead-heading
  • General cleanup and care
  • Fertilizing and pest control
  • Irrigation, drainage, and lighting maintenance
  • Soil preparation and planting

“They provide that extra care that the homeowner would give the garden if he or she had the time,” said Steve Kawaratani of Landscapes by Laguna Nursery in Laguna Beach.

Why Finding a Good Gardener is Challenging

“If you find one who provides your plants with that extra TLC, such as washing leaves, dead-heading and checking for pests and disease, hold onto that person,” said Patti Ferner of Pacific Wind Landscape.

Homeowner Success Story

Homeowner Victoria Michaels found success with Nick Sutcliffe of English Gardens in Orange.

“I knew he was the gardener for me because he immediately went to my yucca and started pulling off dead leaves,” she said. “His employees get down on their knees and clean out my flower beds. That’s the kind of detailed work that makes my garden look really good.”

Cost of Full-Service Gardening

  • Hourly rate: $35 to $55
  • Monthly cost: $150 to $350 or more, depending on yard size and care level

Some customers pay for a consultation and do the work themselves or delegate it to their existing gardener.

Hunt provides detailed consultations and training for gardeners to properly maintain landscapes.

“Most gardeners want to do a good job. They’re just not equipped with the information to do it,” Hunt said. “If you can train the person you already have about the importance of things like mulch and proper watering, you’ll end up with a better landscape.”

Long-Term Gardening Partnerships

Helen Magruder of Corona del Mar has worked with her gardener for 15 years. Through trial and error, they developed a strong relationship built on mutual respect and trust.

“Angel [Gonzales] is dependable and loyal. He listens to suggestions and brings his own input,” she said. “He handles things like irrigation and drainage that I couldn’t manage on my own.”

Expert Tips for Finding and Working with Gardeners

  • Be cautious: Don’t allow anyone to prune, plant, or apply pest control unless you’re confident they know what they’re doing.
  • Be specific: When assigning new tasks, be clear about what you want. Visuals help.
  • Expect limits: Some lawn-care providers focus solely on mowing and edging. Consider hiring a separate maintenance service for specialized care.

Recommended Garden Maintenance Services

  • Jungle Julie Landscape Solutions – (949) 830-9555 – junglejulie.com
  • English Gardens – (714) 870-0260
  • Landscapes by Laguna Nursery – (949) 497-2438
  • Pacific Wind Landscape – (949) 689-8355

October Planting Guide

October Gardening in Orange County

October is one of the best gardening months in Orange County. Our weather is not yet chilly, but by now the sweltering days of summer have usually passed.

It’s a great time to plant just about anything, including many trees, shrubs, and perennials, which will set down a strong root system over the winter. Now is also the time to plant cool season vegetables. The following is a sampling of what can be planted this month:

Flowers

  • Agapanthus
  • Alyssum
  • Aster
  • Bachelor’s Button
  • Begonia
  • Bromeliad
  • Calendula
  • California Poppy
  • Canna
  • Campanula
  • Canterbury Bell
  • Carnation
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English Primrose
  • Felicia
  • Foxglove
  • Geranium
  • Iceland Poppy
  • Impatiens
  • Japanese Anemone
  • Lilac
  • Lantana
  • Nasturtium
  • Pansy
  • Penstemon
  • Portulaca
  • Rudbeckia
  • Scabiosa
  • Schizanthus
  • Shasta Daisy
  • Snapdragon
  • Stock
  • Succulent
  • Sweet Pea
  • Viola
  • Sweet Violet
  • Sweet William

Vegetables

  • Artichoke
  • Arugula
  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Collards
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Horseradish
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard Greens
  • Onion
  • Oriental Greens
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Shallot
  • Spinach
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnip

Herbs

  • Bay Laurel
  • Chamomile
  • Chervil
  • Chive
  • Cilantro
  • Comfrey
  • Dill
  • Fennel
  • Lavender
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Rosemary
  • Sage
  • Thyme

Bulbs and Tubers

  • Anemone
  • Babiana
  • Bearded Iris
  • Freesia
  • Homeria
  • Lily
  • Ranunculus
  • Sparaxis
  • Tritonia
  • Watsonia

Plant Peril: Soil Too Acid or Alkaline

How Soil pH Impacts Plant Health

When a plant is struggling, the problem often lies beneath the surface—in the soil. Specifically, the soil’s pH, which measures its acidity or alkalinity, plays a crucial role in plant health. Unfortunately, this is often one of the last things gardeners check—when it should be the first.

Why Soil pH Matters

According to Bob Denman, co-owner of Denman & Co., “Many plant health problems are not caused by disease, insects, or nutritional deficiencies, but rather by soil that is too acidic or too alkaline.”

Soil pH affects nutrient availability. Research plant physiologist Darren Haver explains: “If the pH is too low or too high, many nutrients cannot be released to the plants.”

  • Phosphorus is only available near neutral pH. Without it, plants cannot perform key functions like photosynthesis or grow healthy roots and flowers.
  • Iron deficiency (chlorosis), especially in citrus, can occur in alkaline soil even if iron is present.
  • Other nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and nitrogen can also become unavailable due to incorrect pH.
  • Microorganisms vital to soil health may decline with extreme pH levels.
  • Toxins like aluminum become more potent and absorbable when pH is off.

Joe Sweazy of Environmental Test Systems adds that “burn” on plants could be caused by pH imbalance—not just watering or fertilizing issues.

Understanding the pH Scale

  • The pH scale ranges from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline). A reading of 7 is neutral.
  • Most plants prefer pH levels between 6.0 and 6.5.
  • Some plants, like azaleas, thrive in acidic soil, while others, like certain California natives, need alkaline conditions.
  • Each whole number represents a tenfold change in acidity or alkalinity. For example, pH 6 is ten times more acidic than pH 7.

As Denman states: “A full point change can mean the difference between life or death for certain plants.”

Soil pH in Orange County and the Western U.S.

In Orange County and much of the western U.S., soils are generally alkaline due to low rainfall, which is needed to flush out naturally occurring alkaline salts.

In contrast, regions with more rainfall, like the Pacific Northwest and Southeast, tend to have more acidic soils.

How to Test Your Soil’s pH

  • Use a pH test kit (good for occasional use; $6–$30 depending on features).
  • Invest in a pH meter for long-term monitoring (accurate models cost $50–$70).
  • Take 3–4 samples from 2–6 inches deep for accuracy.
  • Mix soil with neutral-pH water (distilled is best) to avoid skewed results.
  • Note that pH varies across your yard and throughout the year, especially near concrete or where fertilizers are used.

Adjusting Soil pH

Lowering Alkaline pH

  • Use soil sulfur for best results—it’s fast, long-lasting, and pure.
  • General rule: 1 lb per 10×10 ft area lowers pH by one point.
  • Clay or organic-rich soils resist pH change; sandy soils adjust more easily.
  • Re-test soil 2 weeks, 1 month, and 2 months after treatment.
  • Apply sulfur cautiously during hot weather—start with 1/4 dose weekly. In cool seasons, apply full dose.

Raising Acidic pH

  • Use finely ground agricultural lime following package instructions.

Always test the pH of any fertilizer or amendment before use.

For nutrient deficiencies (e.g., calcium, potassium, magnesium), consult a certified nursery professional.

Planting with pH in Mind

Group plants with similar pH needs together. For example, don’t plant acid-loving orchids next to alkalinity-loving alyssum.

Resources

  • Denman & Co., 401 W. Chapman, Orange. (714) 639-8106
  • Accugrow Test Kits: (800) 589-5551 or Accugrow.com
  • Soil and Plant Laboratory, 1594 N. Main St., Orange. (714) 282-8777

What Can You Grow?

Plants that Prefer Alkaline Soil:

  • Alyssum
  • Asparagus
  • Baby’s breath
  • Bean
  • Beet
  • Cabbage
  • Carnation
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Cosmos
  • Cucumber
  • Coral bells
  • Dianthus
  • Iris
  • Leek
  • Melons
  • Mint
  • Nasturtium
  • Okra
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Peach
  • Peonies
  • Phlox
  • Rhubarb
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Squash
  • Sweet pea
  • Swiss chard
  • Walnut

Plants that Prefer Acidic Soil:

  • Azalea
  • Basil
  • Blackberry
  • Blueberry
  • Butterfly-weed
  • Camellia
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Clematis
  • Fir
  • Flax
  • Gardenia
  • Heather
  • Hydrangea
  • Lupine
  • Magnolia
  • Marigold
  • Oak
  • Orchid
  • Pine
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Raspberry
  • Rhododendron
  • Rose
  • Strawberry
  • Viola
  • Yew

Unjudicial Branch

Mature Trees Are Beautiful, But Can Become a Sore Subject Between Neighbors

Randall Stamen, a Riverside attorney and certified arborist, often receives calls from tree owners upset that neighbors have unexpectedly pruned or removed trees or roots crossing property lines.

“I can’t imagine treating your neighbor that way. It absolutely astounds me, but it happens all the time,” said Stamen. “People will come home from work and their neighbors have removed the trees or cut the foliage or roots so drastically that the plant becomes unstable.”

Legal Landmark: Booska vs. Patel (1994)

Before 1994, property owners could cut foliage or roots that encroached on their land. But the court case Booska vs. Patel changed that precedent.

  • The court ruled that pruning must be reasonable and must not damage the neighbor’s tree.
  • The defendant in the case was found liable because his actions made the neighbor’s tree unsafe, leading to its removal.
  • It is now considered a duty to act reasonably, even on your own property.

The “Gray Area” of Reasonableness

“This court case put things in a gray area,” said Stamen. “Reasonableness varies person to person. Now, alternative options like root barriers and corrective pruning must be considered.”

Expert Opinions: Address Tree Encroachment Peacefully

Alden Kelley, a Fullerton consulting arborist and expert witness, notes:

“We just live too close together, and people acquire trees too big for their space, which inevitably encroach into a neighbor’s yard.”

Randall Stamen’s advice:

  • Compromise with your neighbor before making any cuts.
  • Never prune before discussing the issue to avoid escalation and potential litigation.

Henry Canales, Irvine’s tree maintenance supervisor, shares:

“Improper pruning can kill a tree or cause it to fall in windstorms. Talk calmly with your neighbor instead of reacting emotionally.”

Lois Fox of Merit Property Management emphasizes communication:

“Your neighbor may not even know their tree is causing problems. A simple conversation can solve the issue quickly.”

Consider a Professional for Tree Maintenance

  • Root pruning and foliage trimming should be handled by certified professionals.
  • Incorrect pruning can destabilize the tree or cause long-term damage.
  • Offer to split the cost to make the idea more acceptable to your neighbor.

Stamen also authored “California Arboriculture Law” (1997, $50) and can be reached at (909) 787-9788.

Getting Control, Above and Below Ground

If your tree’s roots are damaging a neighbor’s fence or the branches are blocking their view, consider these alternatives:

  • Thinning and pruning foliage: Follow proper guidelines to avoid harming the tree.
  • Root pruning: Must be done at a safe distance based on trunk diameter.
  • Installing root barriers: Effective before planting or after pruning to prevent future issues.

Good Trees for Small Areas

Choose smaller trees or tree-shrubs to avoid future conflicts:

  • Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki)
  • Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis)
  • Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangiana) – 8 ft from property line
  • Redleaf photinia (Photinia fraseri)
  • Willow pittosporum (Pittosporum phillyraeoides)
  • Gold medallion tree (Cassia leptophylla)
  • Bronze loquat (Eriobotrya deflexa)
  • Coral gum (Eucalyptus torquata)
  • Sweetshade (Hymenosporum flavum)
  • Citrus trees – Oranges, lemons, etc.

Trees to Avoid in Small Yards

These species tend to grow too large and have invasive roots or branches:

  • Any Ficus (except edible fig)
  • Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora)
  • Coral tree (Erythrina caffra)
  • Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus)
  • Sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
  • Shamel ash (Fraxinus uhdei)
  • Italian stone pine (Pinus pinea)
  • California sycamore (Platanus racemosa)
  • Weeping willow (Salix babylonica)
  • Brazilian pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius)

Sources: DeepRoot; Alden Kelley, consulting arborist; Ortho’s All About Trees

Approaching Your Neighbor

How to Handle Tree Encroachment with Your Neighbor

Experts agree that the best way to deal with tree encroachment is to begin by talking to your neighbor about the offending tree or trees.

“It’s important to remember that your goal is not only to alleviate the encroachment problem, but to remain on good terms with your neighbor,” said Riverside arborist and attorney Randall Stamen.

Steps to Take When Addressing the Issue

Randall Stamen suggests the following approach:

  • Be friendly: Don’t immediately send a certified letter. “You’re just escalating things,” said Stamen. Choose a calm moment and explain the issue without blaming. Offer potential solutions.
  • Offer to share costs: Propose splitting the pruning costs, or if you’re capable, offer to do the pruning yourself—with your neighbor present.
  • Send a neighborly letter: If a face-to-face discussion doesn’t resolve the issue, write a polite letter reiterating the problem and suggesting solutions. Send it via regular mail.
  • Send a certified letter: If the initial letter goes unanswered, follow up with a more formal but courteous certified letter.
  • Mention HOA rules: If you’re part of a homeowners association and the encroachment violates CC&Rs or landscaping standards, reference these rules in your letter.
  • Contact your HOA or an attorney: If there’s still no response, contact your HOA or have a lawyer write on your behalf.
  • Consider mediation: Suggest involving a neutral third-party mediator to reach a solution.
  • Legal action: As a last resort, hire a lawyer and pursue a lawsuit.

Nursery Is Oasis Where the Plants Are for Sale

Mystic Gardens in San Juan Capistrano: A Nursery Experience

When I heard about Mystic Gardens in San Juan Capistrano and read the slogan: “Not just a nursery… It’s an experience,” I was skeptical. A well-stocked nursery, maybe, but an experience?

Putting their claims to the test, my daughter, Sabrina, and I visited the two-acre property on Ortega Highway.

As we strolled meandering pathways past colorful, exotic plants and sat in rustic furniture while listening to the sound of burbling fountains, I had to admit — we were having an experience.

We weren’t alone.

On her first visit to Mystic Gardens, Robin Wilder of Laguna Niguel expected a quick shopping trip. “Things didn’t work out that way,” she said. “I took my four children and it was like a field trip. We stayed a long time.”

Dave McAllister, owner of McAllister Topsoil and Compost in San Juan Capistrano, said his weekly trips to the independent nursery make him think of Hawaii. “It’s much more than a nursery—almost like an arboretum.”

Other Noteworthy Orange County Nurseries

Orange County has other independent nurseries that offer unusual plants, high-garden accessories, and expert service. These include:

  • Roger’s Gardens, Corona del Mar
  • Heard’s Country Gardens, Westminster
  • Laguna Hills Nursery, Lake Forest
  • M & M Nursery, Orange
  • Huntington Garden Center, Huntington Beach
  • Upland Nursery, Orange
  • Brita’s Old Town Gardens, Seal Beach

The Vision Behind Mystic Gardens

Thomas McLaughlin, co-owner of McLaughlin Landscape Construction in San Clemente, and his wife, Lori, purchased Mystic Gardens two years ago. They transformed the space by adding stone paths, ponds, stream beds, and waterfalls.

“We made it a destination,” said Thomas McLaughlin. “People enjoy strolling through here.”

Creating an inviting nursery with full-grown plants on display to help customers visualize their gardens is essential for success, said general manager Ken McCausland, who worked at the location before it was revamped.

Mystic Gardens, 27401 Ortega Highway, San Juan Capistrano. Phone: (949) 488-0074.

July Planting Guide

What to Plant Now: Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers, and More

Go deep: Giving plants a quick drink occasionally is OK during the hot days ahead, but it’s no substitute for deep irrigation. Also, make sure to harvest regularly. If vegetables aren’t picked often, plants may go to seed and stop producing.

Vegetables and Herbs

  • Arugula
  • Basil
  • Bean
  • Beet
  • Borage
  • Cantaloupe
  • Carrot
  • Catnip
  • Corn
  • Cucumber
  • Dill
  • Eggplant
  • Fennel
  • Feverfew
  • Lavender
  • Lemon balm
  • Lemon verbena
  • Melon
  • Mint
  • New Zealand spinach
  • Okra
  • Onion
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Pepper
  • Pumpkin
  • Radish
  • Rosemary
  • Squash
  • Summer savory
  • Sweet marjoram
  • Swiss chard
  • Thyme
  • Tomatillo
  • Tomato
  • Winter squash

Flowers

  • Ageratum
  • Alyssum
  • Armeria
  • Aster
  • Bacopa
  • Begonia
  • Blue flax
  • Cactus
  • Campanula
  • Canna
  • Celosia
  • Coleus
  • Coreopsis
  • Cosmos
  • Dahlia
  • Dianthus
  • Echinacea
  • Euphorbia
  • Gaillardia
  • Gazania
  • Geranium
  • Ginger
  • Heliotrope
  • Impatiens
  • Lavender
  • Lisianthus
  • Lobelia
  • Love-in-a-puff
  • Love-in-a-mist
  • Mallow
  • Marigold
  • Million bells
  • Nasturtium
  • Nicotiana
  • Penstemon
  • Petunia
  • Portulaca
  • Salvia
  • Scaevola
  • Snow-in-Summer
  • Society garlic
  • Statice
  • Succulents
  • Sunflower
  • Verbena
  • Vinca
  • Yarrow
  • Zinnia

Trees, Shrubs, and Vines

  • Banana
  • Bougainvillea
  • Brugmansia
  • Buddleia
  • Chinese lantern
  • Hibiscus
  • Mandevilla
  • Moonflower
  • Morning glory
  • Palm
  • Papaya
  • Passion vine
  • Plumeria
  • Rose

Sweet and Sour Smell of Success

Lemon Verbena: Fragrant, Flavorful, and Flourishing in Southern California

* Lemon verbena is a fragrant herb used to flavor food and flourishes in this climate and soil.
July 01, 2000
| JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

It’s not necessary to grow a lemon tree to enjoy fresh lemon fragrance or flavor.

“The narrow, pointy leaves of the herb lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) have a distinct lemon scent and flavor that’s as good as a lemon,” says Norm Yoder, co-owner of Friday House Gardens in Orange.

Lemon verbena is a popular herb, agrees Vincent Hakes, owner of Huntington Garden Center in Huntington Beach. “The plant makes a nice 3- to 6-foot shrub that releases a wonderful lemon scent when you brush up against it. It’s also popular for medicinal purposes,” he says.

Uses of lemon verbena include:

  • Tea that soothes stomach ailments
  • Main ingredient in Vervein tea, popular in France
  • Flavoring fruit desserts, ice cream, and poultry dishes
  • Adding fragrance to potpourri

Growing Lemon Verbena

A native of South America, lemon verbena thrives in Southern California’s climate, whether planted in the ground or in containers.

Now is a great time to plant one. To grow it successfully, follow these tips:

  • Understand its growth cycle: Lemon verbena is deciduous and will lose leaves in cooler months but regrows in spring.
  • Planting: Choose full sun or bright filtered light. In the ground, it can grow 3 to 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide if not pruned.
  • Drainage: Prefers good drainage and alkaline soil. For heavy clay soil, amend with 30%-50% organic matter with humic acid.
  • Containers: Use high-quality, well-draining potting mix rich in perlite or pumice.
  • Watering: Needs regular watering when young. Once established, it is drought-tolerant but responds well to consistent moisture.
  • Fertilizing: Fertilize once or twice a year with an organic all-purpose plant food to promote lush growth.
  • Pruning: Prune regularly to prevent legginess and increase leaf production. Remove flowers to encourage more foliage. Cut the whole plant back in fall after leaf drop to maintain compact shape.

Where to Find Lemon Verbena

  • Friday House Gardens: (714) 953-1421
  • Huntington Garden Center: (714) 963-6522

Within Reach of the Beach

Orange County’s Aliso Viejo Offers Affordable Homes a Bike Ride from the Ocean

Friendly Neighborhoods and Lasting Connections

Leslie Chartier and her husband, Brian, have no plans to leave their Aliso Viejo home anytime soon. Residents like them value the strong sense of community.

“We have great neighbors, and that means a lot,” said Chartier, who moved from Irvine in 1995. “Recently, I got a flat tire coming home from the grocery store. A neighbor picked up my son and groceries while I waited for assistance. In my old neighborhood, I didn’t know anyone well enough to ask for help.”

The Chartiers, both teachers, purchased their 1,700-square-foot, four-bedroom, 2.5-bath home for $200,000.

“When we first moved in, the rest of the neighbors were moving in at the same time,” Chartier said. “We’ve all grown close watching the area grow.”

Natural Beauty and Smart Planning

Located between Laguna Beach and Laguna Hills, Aliso Viejo is surrounded by the 3,200-acre Aliso/Wood Canyons Regional Park, part of the Laguna Coast Wilderness Park.

Tom Steinhoff of Summit Real Estate Group highlights why the area is attractive to young families:

  • Greenbelt surroundings
  • Proximity to the beach
  • Affordable housing options
  • Ample amenities, including a movie theater and ice rink

The Capistrano Unified School District serves the area, which includes three elementary schools, a middle school, and a high school.

Affordable Housing Options

Despite Mello-Roos taxes and HOA fees, Aliso Viejo remains more budget-friendly than nearby beach cities.

Example buyer experiences:

  • Renato Giordano – Bought a 1,800-square-foot, three-bedroom home for $175,000 in 1998. Pleased with affordability and home design.
  • Typical home prices – Around $275,000 for a 2,000-square-foot, 3–4 bedroom home.

High-End vs. Entry-Level Market

  • High-end: 3,500-square-foot, five-bedroom homes with views – $550,000
  • Entry-level: 1,200–1,300 sq ft condos/townhomes – $130,000 to $160,000
  • Apartments: 1–2 bedroom units – $900 to $1,300/month

A Straight Shot to the Beach

Mark Mednick, a high school teacher, was drawn by affordability and the greenbelt location. He bought a 1,400-square-foot, three-bedroom, three-bath condo for $180,000 in 1991.

“It’s a straight shot through the canyon to the beach on my bike,” he said.

The family enjoys views of trees and an airy feel from their home.

“There wasn’t a whole lot here when I moved in, but now we’ve got supermarkets and restaurants. It’s not really necessary to leave town.”

Designed for Self-Containment

According to Chuck Shoemaker, Orange County’s chief of site planning, the original vision for Aliso Viejo was a self-sufficient community with housing, retail, and employment opportunities.

“There are plenty of retail stores and restaurants,” said Shoemaker. “Employment opportunities are growing as businesses move in.”

Now home to 38,000 people, residents are pushing for cityhood, which is under review by the Local Agency Formation Commission (LAFCO).

“Most people would agree incorporation is possible,” said Daniel Schwarz of LAFCO. “Home values have risen, and the economy is strong enough to fund a municipal government.”

Community Spirit Continues to Grow

Steve Dickey moved from Irvine in 1990 and became active in community development.

He serves as:

  • President of the Aliso Viejo Community Association
  • Chairman of the Aliso Viejo Advisory Planning Committee

“Today Aliso Viejo is really coming into its own,” Dickey said. He has owned two homes in the area — a townhome bought for $125,000 in 1990, and a single-family home purchased for $250,000 in 1997.

“We’ve got typical Orange County problems, like traffic in some areas, but overall, it’s a great place to live.”

Julie Bawden-Davis is an Orange County freelance writer.

Earn a Macadamic Degree in Planting Nut Trees

Orange County gardeners who grow macadamia trees will reap a tasty crop and beautify their yards.

April 01, 2000
| JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Mention macadamia nuts and most people think of Hawaii, which is something Tom Cooper wants to stop. Instead, the Fallbrook macadamia nut farmer would like you to think of your backyard.

“Many people don’t realize that in Southern California, we can grow macadamia nuts that are even better than those grown in Hawaii,” says the owner of Cooper’s Nut House, where they sell macadamia nut trees and farm, process, and sell nuts.

Macadamia nuts aren’t even from Hawaii. Native to Australia, they were introduced to California and Hawaii in 1888.

“Five of those original trees are still thriving and producing in various areas of Southern California,” says Cooper.

Though we grow different varieties than they do in Hawaii, macadamia nuts grown here are extremely tasty, and the trees are easy to grow, says Eunice Messner of Anaheim Hills, a member of the California Rare Fruit Growers and the Orange County Rare Fruit Growers and a contributing editor to The Fruit Gardener Magazine.

Macadamia nut trees are also attractive landscape additions, says Messner. “They flower this time of year with pretty, long, pink, tassel-like blooms that stay on the tree for about a month, after which the nuts form.”

Macadamia Tree Growth and Planting Tips

Macadamia trees generally grow to about 25 to 30 feet tall and 15 to 20 feet wide. They bloom now and will bear next winter through early spring. They can be planted at any time of year, although spring and fall, when the weather is mild, are the best planting times.

Varieties of Macadamia Trees

There are several varieties available for home growing. Here are some of the popular ones:

  • ‘Beaumont’: A favorite variety for home gardens that can bloom multiple times a year. The ‘Beaumont’ nuts sometimes split on the tree, leading to a bitter flavor. Remove the brown part to improve taste.
  • ‘Cate’: Known for its thinner shell and short blooming period.
  • ‘Cannon’: Has a medium-thick shell and large nut.
  • ‘Carmel’: Features an even larger nut.
  • ‘James’: Known for its thick shell and good flavor.

Growing Tips for Macadamia Trees

To ensure the best results for your macadamia tree, follow these essential tips:

  • Choose a Sunny, Well-Drained Site: Ensure the soil drains well and, if necessary, improve heavy clay soil by adding pumice or gypsum.
  • Provide Constant Moisture: Macadamia trees need a lot of water, about six gallons per day. Keep the top 6-8 inches of soil moist, especially in sandy soils.
  • Mulch Regularly: Use mulch to retain moisture and provide nutrients. Tree droppings can be ground up and used as mulch.
  • Fertilizing: Macadamia trees are not heavy feeders. Cooper uses mulch for nutrients, while Snider applies balanced fertilizer twice a year. Messner uses chicken compost and a seaweed spray in spring.
  • Pruning: Once established, pruning is minimal. Train young trees by pruning to form a single trunk with limbs radiating to prevent wind damage. Prune after harvesting.

Harvesting and Storing Macadamia Nuts

Some macadamia trees drop their nuts when they are ready, while others, like the ‘Beaumont,’ must be stripped. After harvesting, remove the husk to reveal the brown shell, inside of which is the nut meat. To store:

  • Dry the nuts while still in the shell. Air-dry them for 10 days to two weeks in the shade, then place them in an oven at 110 to 115 degrees for about two days.
  • Once dry, remove the shell using a macadamia nut cracker, as the shell is very hard.

Dealing with Pests

Macadamia trees are rarely bothered by pests, but rodents such as rats, squirrels, and mice may be attracted to the fruit. Contact county vector control for advice on baiting or trapping.

Macadamia Resources

  • Cooper’s Nut House: Carries trees, nuts, and nut crackers. They also dry and crack nuts for a fee. 1378 Willow Glen Road, Fallbrook. Open daily, 8 a.m.-6 p.m. (760) 728-6407 or www.coopersnuthouse.com
  • The California Macadamia Society: Offers resources for growing and using macadamia nuts. Annual dues are $17.50. P.O. Box 1298, Fallbrook 92088. (760) 728-8081 or users.aol.com/TeeterJS/cms
  • The Orange County Rare Fruit Growers: Meets the third Thursday of each month at 7:30 p.m. at the Orange County Fairgrounds, Costa Mesa.


Don’t Shrink Away From Proper Care for African Violets

Caring for African Violets: A Guide to Thriving Blooms

African violets are popular for their vibrant blooms, and with proper care, they can continue to reflower year after year.
When my daughter, Sabrina, asked me to buy her an African violet, I was skeptical. The purple blooms were stunning, but would it ever flower again? To our delight, it has continued to reflower, each bloom cycle lovelier and fuller than the one before.Now I know why African violets (Saintpaulias) are considered one of the most popular flowering houseplants. Give them the right conditions and you can enjoy their pert, happy blooms throughout the year.

Discovered in eastern Africa in 1892 by Baron von Saint Paul, a German working in Tanzania, African violets have been widely hybridized over the years. Today you’ll find them in a variety of colors, forms, and leaf textures.

There are four size ranges for African violets: Standard (1-foot or more across), Semi-miniatures (6-8 inches), Miniatures (4-6 inches), and Trailing forms.

Watering

It’s important not to over-water your African violet. Between waterings, let the surface of the soil dry out. Always water from the bottom to prevent water from touching the leaves, which can cause them to spot and rot. Use room-temperature or slightly warmer water. After watering, drain any excess water in the saucer within an hour.

Some African violet growers use a wick irrigation system, which uses a wick to draw water from a reservoir into the pot without wetting the foliage. This system can be purchased or created with acrylic yarn or nylon cord.

Lighting

African violets prefer bright, indirect light. Provide 8 to 12 hours of sunlight or artificial light each day. Make sure sunlight isn’t too bright, or it may burn the leaves. Protect the plant with sheer curtains or adjustable blinds if placed on a south or west-facing windowsill. Regularly rotate the plant to ensure even light exposure.

They also need at least 8 hours of darkness daily, so avoid placing them in areas with constant light.

Fertilizing

Keep African violets blooming by adding a quarter-strength solution of fertilizer every time you water, or add it to the water reservoir if using a wick system. Use an all-purpose, well-balanced fertilizer such as a 20-20-20 mix.

Temperature & Humidity

African violets thrive at temperatures between 65 and 75°F. They also prefer humid conditions, but without water touching the leaves. To raise humidity, place the pot in a dish filled with moist gravel, pebbles, or marbles, ensuring the pot doesn’t contact the water.

When to Repot

African violets need to be pot-bound to bloom. The pot size should be one-third the diameter of the plant. If the plant outgrows the pot, repot it into a container that’s slightly larger. Use a mix of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite for soil, or try coconut fiber (coir) as an alternative.

Repotting Tips

When repotting, be gentle with the roots and avoid pulling them. Fill the new pot halfway with the soil mix, then plant the violet, ensuring the soil doesn’t bury the leaves. Water lightly and wait a week before watering again.

Watch for Pests

Mealybugs can be problematic for African violets. Use 70% isopropyl alcohol for quick and effective pest control. Always inspect plants before purchasing to ensure they’re healthy and free of pests.

For more information, consider joining the Tustana African Violet Society, or visit the African Violet Society of America website for expert advice and resources.

Resources

  • Regal Flowers, 658 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 532-2518
  • The Tustana African Violet Society, meets at Zion Christian Center, Orange, third Tuesday of every month at 7 p.m., (714) 779-6562
  • African Violet Society of America, Beaumont, TX, (409) 839-4725, www.avsa.org
  • Lyndon Lyon Greenhouses, Dolgeville, NY, (315) 429-8291

Certain Petals Can Test Your Mettle

Tropical Orchids Should Be Handled With Care, but Their Exotic Blooms Are Worth It

Tropical orchids look appealing, but these beautiful flowers have a reputation for being fussy.
While this is true for some varieties, phalaenopsis–also known as moth orchids–are easy to grow indoors. “Phalaenopsis are considered the easiest houseplant orchid,” says Tony Glinskas, chairman of the 20th Annual Fascination of Orchids International Show & Sale, which runs through Sunday at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa.

Though they come from the jungles of the Philippines, moth orchids thrive in our conditions, Glinskas said. “Phalaenopsis like temperatures above 62 degrees and below 85 degrees,” he adds. “Being from under the jungle canopy, they are also accustomed to bright shade, but no direct sunlight, so most indoor lighting situations work well for them.”

Phalaenopsis tend to bloom from spring through fall, but if the conditions are right, they can flower almost year-round. The flowers last from two to three months, making them a much better gift than a bouquet, said Paul Brecht, owner of Paul Brecht Orchid Gardens in Costa Mesa.

Moth Orchids: The Perfect Gift

“While a bouquet will end up in the trash in 10 days, an orchid will give you months of bloom, and when it’s done, you still have a plant that can rebloom,” Brecht said.

Moth orchids generally cost $20 to $50 per plant, depending on the quality, size, and type.

These eye-catching plants have long sprays of 2- to 6-inch-wide flowers that come in a variety of colors, including:

  • White
  • Pink
  • Red
  • Yellow
  • Green
  • Hybrids with spotting or candy striping

Some hybrids have fringe on the flowers, Glinskas said. The leaves are thick, broad, and tend to be sparse, with the flower spikes shooting up above the leaves.

Phalaenopsis received the common name “moth orchid” because the flowers sitting along the flower spike look like moths in flight.

Tips for Growing Moth Orchids Indoors

1. Choose a Good Home

Moth orchids thrive in bright locations that don’t receive any direct sun. Be especially careful to keep them away from hot midday sun.

  • They like air circulation but should be kept away from cold or hot drafts, as sudden temperature changes can cause buds to dry up, brown, and fall off.
  • Good places include bright bathrooms, north and east window sills, and curtained windows that provide filtered light.

You can tell if a plant is receiving the right amount of light by its leaf color. Dark green leaves indicate inadequate light, while light yellow leaves signify too much light. The ideal color is yellowish-green leaves.

2. Water Correctly

Phalaenopsis are accustomed to rain and moisture. The surface below the bark should be kept moist. Watering will depend on the weather. In hot and dry conditions, they may need water every 2-3 days, but during rainy, moist conditions, they might need water only every two weeks.

Water only in the morning so the plant has time to dry before night, and never leave a phalaenopsis in standing water.

3. Provide Humid Conditions

Moth orchids thrive in moist environments. To raise humidity, place the plant pot on pebbles or marbles sitting in water, ensuring no water touches the bottom of the container.

4. Fertilize Regularly

Use a quarter- to half-strength solution of water-soluble fertilizer every time you water. Watch for signs of under- or over-fertilizing. Plants without enough food will have small flowers, while those with too much fertilizer will have soft leaves.

5. Prune Spent Blooms

Cut the flower stalk in between the third and fourth node once the blooms stop. This often triggers another flower stalk in 3-4 months.

6. Repot Regularly

Repot every 1-2 years. Use fresh orchid bark and trim squishy or thin roots. Repot in the same-sized pot unless the roots have outgrown it, in which case use a larger container.

7. Watch for Pests

Mealybugs are common. For fast, effective, and non-toxic results, spray them with 70% isopropyl alcohol.

8. Choose Wisely When Purchasing

When buying a moth orchid, look for one with firm, light green leaves. Avoid deformed or damaged plants.

Good luck, and with all those pretty blooms, it’s hard to choose!

* Paul Brecht Orchid Gardens, 1989 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa, (949) 548-2314.

* Regal Flowers, 658 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 532-2518.

January Planting List

January Gardening Tasks: What to Plant and Protect

Though January is usually one of our coldest months, there is still plenty to do in the garden. It’s the perfect time to buy and plant bare-root roses, berries, and fruit trees. Pruning of deciduous fruit trees and vines should also be done.

There are a variety of flowers and vegetables that thrive in cool weather. Keep in mind that plants started from seed might take longer to germinate than they would in warmer weather.

If there is rain, wait four to seven days before planting in the ground. The soil should be moist but never soggy. When you must wait to plant because of wet weather, store bare-root plants in a cool location and keep the root ball moist.

Keep an ear open for frost warnings. Tender plants in containers should be moved to the safety of a garage, under the eaves of a house, or under a large tree. To protect plants in the ground, create a tent over them. Simply laying materials such as sheets on the plants will not provide adequate frost protection. Always remove protective coverings in the morning.

Windy weather is also a problem. When the Santa Anas blow, make sure to keep plants well watered. Additionally, spray plant leaves and nearby hardscape with water to raise the humidity level, helping plants cope with the dry air.

Flowers to Plant in January

Here’s a list of flowers that can be grown from seed or starter plants:

  • Alyssum
  • Bachelor’s button
  • Bromeliad
  • Cactus
  • Calendula
  • California poppy
  • Candytuft
  • Carnation
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English primrose
  • Foxglove
  • Fuchsia
  • Geranium
  • Iceland poppy
  • Impatiens
  • Flowering kale
  • Kalanchoe
  • Larkspur
  • Lupine
  • Nasturtium
  • Nemesia
  • Pansy
  • Salvia
  • Schizanthus

Vegetables and Herbs to Grow

These vegetables and herbs thrive in cooler temperatures:

  • Arugula
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Cilantro
  • Collards
  • Cress
  • Dill
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mint
  • Mustard greens
  • Onion
  • Parsley
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Swiss chard
  • Turnip

Trees and Shrubs

These trees and shrubs are great to plant in January:

  • Azalea
  • Boronia
  • Camellia
  • Euryops
  • Montanoa grandiflora

Bare-Root Plants to Consider

Consider planting these bare-root varieties:

  • Artichoke
  • Asparagus
  • Berries
  • Grape
  • Flowering trees
  • Fruit trees
  • Rose
  • Shade trees
  • Strawberry

The Surprising Pleasures of a Garden Journal

Why Keeping a Garden Journal Is a Smart Habit

Perhaps the most useful garden book you will ever read is your own.

Since 1990, I’ve kept a garden journal. In it, I’ve recorded when I’ve pruned, fertilized, planted, and acquired plants. I’ve also made diagrams of the garden and commented on how the garden looks and feels at various stages.

While I could live without my journal and my garden would grow without it, I often find it useful and interesting to peruse, noting how things change and how things stay the same.

Take the time to start a garden journal, and you’ll probably find it has immeasurable benefits.

Seal Beach gardener Gary Putnam’s 22-year-old garden journal is an old friend and invaluable gardening tool.

“One of the best reasons to keep a journal is that it builds your awareness of what goes on in the garden over the course of a year and gets you focused on what you’ve done and what you still want to do,” he says.

Putnam uses his journal to answer basic questions about his yard that are necessary for successfully growing plants, such as sun exposure and temperature. His journal also provides a record of what performs well in his garden and what doesn’t, and when and how he fertilizes plants.

At times, his journal has even calmed worries about plants that seem to be ailing.

“Two winters ago I wrote about my pentas and how after a couple of months of cold, it collapsed but came back again in June,” he says. “Last year when it started looking bad in winter, I was comforted to read that the same thing had happened the previous year.”

Keep It Simple

Don’t let a garden journal intimidate you.

“Keep the journal simple; it doesn’t have to be anything fancy,” says Putnam. “My first is just an old composition book, which I find charming. My second is also simple, although it has a garden-related cover.”

Your notations don’t have to be long. Just a brief note about the weather in January and whether the camellias are flowering will give you important information in years to come. Notes on rainfall—or lack of it—are also useful, as well as when frost hits and what kind of damage the Santa Ana winds wreak on tender plants.

What to Include in Your Garden Journal

  • Vital statistics on plants you’re growing, including height, spread, foliage characteristics, flower color, and blooming season.
  • Information on plants seen in other gardens that you want to grow, and tips from other gardeners on growing them.
  • Notes from garden books and lectures.
  • Information on work you’ve done in the garden, including planting, seeding, fertilizing, mulching, and pruning.
  • Garden tasks that you want to accomplish.
  • Comments on the weather and how plants are doing throughout the year.
  • Diagrams of the garden or the garden of your dreams, including pictures of gardens you admire.
  • Photos of your garden as it progresses.
  • Virtually anything about the garden that pops into your mind on any given day, including a brief mention of how much you like a certain plant.

Gourd Your Home

Why Keeping a Garden Journal Is a Smart Habit

Perhaps the most useful garden book you will ever read is your own.

Since 1990, I’ve kept a garden journal. In it, I’ve recorded when I’ve pruned, fertilized, planted, and acquired plants. I’ve also made diagrams of the garden and commented on how the garden looks and feels at various stages.

While I could live without my journal and my garden would grow without it, I often find it useful and interesting to peruse, noting how things change and how things stay the same.

Take the time to start a garden journal, and you’ll probably find it has immeasurable benefits.

Seal Beach gardener Gary Putnam’s 22-year-old garden journal is an old friend and invaluable gardening tool.

“One of the best reasons to keep a journal is that it builds your awareness of what goes on in the garden over the course of a year and gets you focused on what you’ve done and what you still want to do,” he says.

Putnam uses his journal to answer basic questions about his yard that are necessary for successfully growing plants, such as sun exposure and temperature. His journal also provides a record of what performs well in his garden and what doesn’t, and when and how he fertilizes plants.

At times, his journal has even calmed worries about plants that seem to be ailing.

“Two winters ago I wrote about my pentas and how after a couple of months of cold, it collapsed but came back again in June,” he says. “Last year when it started looking bad in winter, I was comforted to read that the same thing had happened the previous year.”

Keep It Simple

Don’t let a garden journal intimidate you.

“Keep the journal simple; it doesn’t have to be anything fancy,” says Putnam. “My first is just an old composition book, which I find charming. My second is also simple, although it has a garden-related cover.”

Your notations don’t have to be long. Just a brief note about the weather in January and whether the camellias are flowering will give you important information in years to come. Notes on rainfall—or lack of it—are also useful, as well as when frost hits and what kind of damage the Santa Ana winds wreak on tender plants.

What to Include in Your Garden Journal

  • Vital statistics on plants you’re growing, including height, spread, foliage characteristics, flower color, and blooming season.
  • Information on plants seen in other gardens that you want to grow, and tips from other gardeners on growing them.
  • Notes from garden books and lectures.
  • Information on work you’ve done in the garden, including planting, seeding, fertilizing, mulching, and pruning.
  • Garden tasks that you want to accomplish.
  • Comments on the weather and how plants are doing throughout the year.
  • Diagrams of the garden or the garden of your dreams, including pictures of gardens you admire.
  • Photos of your garden as it progresses.
  • Virtually anything about the garden that pops into your mind on any given day, including a brief mention of how much you like a certain plant.