Portfolio Categories: LOS ANGELES TIMES

Pumpkins: Planting the Seeds of Halloween

Pumpkins: A Versatile Crop for Your Garden

Pumpkins, once a staple crop of the American Indians, today have triple value: They make delicious pies, have tasty seeds, and are a popular Halloween ornament.

Because pumpkin plants quickly outgrow containers, they are usually not found in nurseries and must be grown from seed, says Sharon Kaszan of W. Atlee Burpee & Co., a mail-order seed company in Warminster, PA.

Planting Time: “Plant pumpkin seeds before the end of June, and you’ll have pumpkins for Halloween,” she says.

Pumpkin seeds can be bought at nurseries and through catalogs. Besides the traditional 8- to 10-pound orange pumpkin, you’ll find unusual varieties such as:

  • ‘Lumina’: An 8- to 10-pound pumpkin with ghostly white skin and an orange interior.
  • ‘Jack Be Little’: A miniature orange pumpkin that is just 3 inches high and 2 inches in diameter.
  • ‘Baby Boo’: A small, white pumpkin similar in size to ‘Jack Be Little’.
Giant Pumpkin

There are also giant pumpkins, some capable of reaching hundreds of pounds. ‘Prizewinner’ is an exhibition-size pumpkin that has been known to surpass 450 pounds. Generally growing between 100 to 200 pounds, it has smooth, glossy, bright reddish-orange skin.

Growing Pumpkins: Tips for Success

To have success growing pumpkins, keep the following tips in mind:

  • Choose a Sunny Location: Pumpkins need plenty of space to grow. Giant pumpkins can have vines up to 25 feet long, so provide five feet in each direction. Small pumpkins can be grown on trellises with some training.
  • Soil and Drainage: Pumpkins prefer rich soil with good drainage. Amend the soil with 50% compost, either homemade or bagged.
  • Mulching: Once pumpkin plants are growing, it’s impossible to weed around them without damaging the plants. Apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick compost mulch to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.
  • Watering: Keep pumpkin plants well-watered. Inadequate watering will cause slow growth. Once established, a good soak once a week is generally sufficient.
  • Fertilizing: Feed the plant regularly with a slow-release, all-purpose vegetable fertilizer such as a 5-5-5 mix. Avoid fertilizers with higher numbers as they can cause rapid leaf growth but hinder fruit development. Fertilize when the plant starts growing, when it vines, when it blossoms, and when blossoms set fruit.
  • Container Growing: If you want to grow pumpkins in containers, the only option is baby pumpkins. Plant one vine in a half barrel and provide a trellis for support. Expect a smaller yield than in-ground planting.
  • Harvesting: Pumpkins are ready to harvest when the vine dies back. The longer they stay on the vine, the sweeter they become.

Where to Buy Pumpkin Seeds

Here are some companies that carry pumpkin seeds:

  • Bountiful Gardens: Carries seeds from various countries. Phone: (707) 459-6410
  • W. Atlee Burpee & Co.: Phone: (800) 888-1447
  • Park Seed: Phone: (800) 845-3369
  • Nichols Garden Nursery: Phone: (541) 928-9280


Now’s the Time to Plant Those Orange Trees

Gardening: Fragrant Beauties Produce Fruit for Up to 50 Years. Get Them in the Ground Before It’s Too Hot

When Orange County was named in the late 1800s, there were more grapevines here than orange trees. Real estate agents pushed for the word “orange” because they felt it evoked a salable Mediterranean flavor. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that the orange industry took off.

These easy-to-grow trees produce fruit for up to 50 years and are an attractive landscape addition with their glossy green leaves and fragrant blossoms that attract bees.

Now is a good time to plant an orange tree because it will have time to set down new roots before really hot weather arrives.

Varieties of Orange Trees
You can find a variety of common and more unusual orange trees in nurseries, including dwarf varieties that are good for containers and small yards, says Laurie Mazzella, new plants manager at Monrovia Nursery in Azusa, a wholesaler that sells to nurseries throughout Orange County.

Orange Tree

“A standard orange tree will grow 20 to 25 feet, but on dwarf root stock like the Flying Dragon type, there are many orange trees that simply become an 8-foot mound,” Mazzella says.

Types of Oranges

Oranges come in two main varieties. The most popular for the home gardener are navels. These large, thick-skinned fruits have no seeds and the segments pull apart easily.

  • Dwarf Navel: Dwarf Lane Late navel orange, growing 6-8 feet tall. This variety has fruit that matures later than most oranges.
  • Washington Navel: The standard variety, produces richly sweet oranges with crisp, tender flesh. It ripens from December to February.
  • Valencia: In season May-November, excellent for juicing with smaller fruit and thin peels. MidKnight Valencia is a nearly seedless variety that holds fruit on the tree for months.
  • Blood Oranges: Moro Moro variety has reddish-orange skin and deep red flesh, offering an exotic flavor of orange with raspberry or strawberry overtones.

Planting Tips

To grow an orange tree in your yard, follow these tips:

  • Choose a healthy tree: Look for one with lots of deep green leaves.
  • Location: Find a full-sun location with excellent drainage. Test drainage by filling a hole with water; if it doesn’t drain within an hour, find a better location.
  • Soil: Amend the soil with 50% compost or planter mix, and gypsum. Ensure the soil is loose to at least a foot deep.
  • Planting depth: Plant the tree at the same level it was in the container. Planting too deeply can suffocate the tree.
  • Watering: Don’t over-water. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings to avoid root rot.
  • Fertilizing: Fertilize 4-5 times a year, using a fertilizer that contains iron to avoid chlorosis, a condition that causes yellowing leaves.
  • Pruning: Orange trees need minimal pruning. Remove branches that touch or are a hazard. Remove suckers growing below the graft union.

Container Growing

For container growing, use a dwarf variety and a pot that’s at least 15 gallons. Ensure regular watering and fertilizing, as the tree has limited access to moisture and food in containers.

May Planting Guide

May is an ideal time for gardening. Temperatures are mild and soil is warm, promoting quick plant growth. If the weather turns hot, water plants more often and shield new transplants from direct sunlight for a couple of days.

Flowers
  • Ageratum
  • Alyssum
  • Aster
  • Begonia
  • Blue flax
Trees / Shrubs / Vines
  • Bougainvillea
  • Citrus
  • Gardenia
  • Hibiscus
Vegetables and Herbs
  • Basil
  • Bean
  • Beet
  • Carrot
  • Cilantro

How to Get Tasty Basil Into Mint Condition

Basil: A Flavorful Herb for Your Garden and Kitchen

Few herbs tantalize the taste buds or jazz up the garden like basil.

Basil, a member of the mint family, is an annual herb that thrives in hot weather. Once planted, you can enjoy its spicy, licorice-flavored leaves for months. Not only does basil provide a tasty edible crop, but it also adds beauty to summer landscaping.

Joyce Smith, a Fullerton gardener and volunteer for the Friends of the Fullerton Arboretum, highlights its ornamental appeal. “Many basil leaves are bright green and glossy, and there are beautiful purple-foliage varieties,” she said. Basil also has flower stalks that come in shades of white, purple, and pink. It is a fast-growing plant, typically reaching about 2 1/2 feet tall and spreading a foot and a half.

How Basil Became Popular

Once thought of as a herb mainly for Italian dishes, basil has gained popularity in recent years for its versatility. As Joyce Smith notes, “Pesto used to be the reason why people grew basil, but now we’ve discovered that it can be added to almost anything.”

Basil is not only a great addition to tomato dishes but also tastes great on fish, chicken, vegetables, and fruit. It can be eaten raw in salads, and many scented basils also make a delightful tea. Additionally, basil can be dried for use in potpourri.

Varieties of Basil

Basil comes in various types, including:

  • Smooth-leafed varieties
  • Varieties with ruffled leaves
  • Basil with large or small leaves
  • Red-leafed basils
  • Scented basils with flavors like cinnamon, lemon, and anise
  • Miniature basils that thrive in containers

The History of Basil

Basil’s past has been somewhat mixed. In ancient Greece and early Europe, it was thought to be poisonous because scorpions were often found living in the plants. However, once the Italians discovered basil’s culinary potential, it gained popularity as a sign of courtship and love. In England, it was even considered an aphrodisiac.

Despite its tumultuous history in Europe, basil has always been revered in Thailand, where it grows wild and is an essential ingredient in many national dishes.

How to Plant and Grow Basil

To plant basil and enjoy a prolific crop, keep the following tips in mind:

  • Planting Time: Wait until soil and nighttime temperatures are 55°F or above, usually in mid-May. Before this time, germinate seeds indoors in a sunny location.
  • Location: Choose a site with full sun. Basil will become leggy in shade and produce fewer leaves.
  • Soil: Basil thrives in rich, well-draining soil. Amend the planting site with 50% compost and 50% existing soil.
  • Plant Spacing: When planting basil transplants, separate them carefully so that each planting hole has a single plant to promote healthy growth.
  • Thinning: If planting seeds, thin the seedlings to 2 inches apart once they reach 2 to 3 inches in height.

Care and Maintenance

  • Fertilizer: Avoid over-fertilizing. Use compost for nutrients, and feed basil with a balanced organic fertilizer at the beginning of the season.
  • Watering: Keep basil well-watered but avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot. Water deeply about once a week, and never overhead water to avoid leaf diseases.
  • Harvesting: Start harvesting when plants reach 6 inches high and have 6 to 8 pairs of leaves. Cut stems back to 2 to 4 leaves, which encourages more growth.
  • Prevent Flowering: To extend basil’s life, prevent it from flowering. Once basil flowers, it enters seed-production mode and stops growing. Cut stems back to 2 to 4 leaves before they flower.

Growing Basil in Containers

Basil thrives in containers, especially when using plastic pots that retain moisture better than other materials. A container at least 5 inches in diameter and 7 inches deep is ideal for a single basil plant. For larger containers, such as a half barrel, you can grow up to three plants.

Conclusion

Basil is a versatile, easy-to-grow herb that offers both culinary and aesthetic benefits. With proper care and attention, basil can provide fresh, flavorful leaves for months, making it a must-have for any garden or kitchen.

Home Buying 101

Classes for Prospective Buyers: Educating Consumers to Reduce Mortgage Defaults

The way Tim Monzello sees it, buying your first home is a lot like being a new parent.

“You’re going into both experiences blind,” said Monzello, 34, who recently moved into his first home in Azusa and has an 8-year-old son. “You’re hungry for any information that will make you a better home buyer or parent,” he added.

Before they bought their three-bedroom, $130,000 home, Tim and his wife, Karen, gathered all the information they could on what they consider the most important purchase they’ll ever make. A critical part of their research included attending classes for new home buyers.

What Are Homebuyer Classes?

Homebuyer classes, typically given by mortgage lenders, real estate agents, and nonprofit groups, are held throughout Southern California and across the United States. These classes are designed to educate consumers about the home-buying process and the responsibilities of homeownership, with the goal of reducing mortgage defaults.

Class Features

  • Offered by mortgage lenders, real estate agents, and nonprofit organizations.
  • Classes range from 4 to 8 hours in length.
  • Sessions are typically held on Saturdays or evenings, with some home study options available.
  • Often mandatory for qualifying for loans requiring 5% down or less.
  • Financial incentives such as down payment or closing cost assistance may be offered.

Attendees must understand how to:

  • Shop for a home.
  • Obtain a mortgage.
  • Handle the responsibilities of homeownership.

History of Homebuyer Classes

The concept of homebuyer classes was introduced in 1989 when Fannie Mae aimed to make homeownership more accessible to low- and moderate-income renters. The initiative partnered with several mortgage insurance companies, including GE Capital Mortgage Insurance Corp.

“In return for educating consumers about homeownership, we felt we could be more flexible in terms of underwriting guidelines,” said Mike Kachel, spokesman for GE Capital.

Since 1990, these classes have been available nationally, benefiting over 300,000 families. In the Los Angeles area alone, homes worth $3.3 billion have been sold to low- and moderate-income buyers in the last five years.

The Monzellos’ Experience

Tim and Karen Monzello attended their first home-buyers class after being referred by their real estate agent, Jim Malone. The classes helped them simplify what would otherwise have been a confusing and daunting process.

“We had talked to people about buying a home, but until we went to our first home-buying seminar and got an idea of what was really involved, it was a nebulous process in our minds,” said Tim Monzello.

During the class, experts discussed:

  • Qualifying for a loan, including affordability, down payments, income requirements, and credit impact.
  • The loan process, including terms like appraisal, escrow, and closing.

Breaking Myths About Homebuying

Some of the common myths dispelled in homebuyer seminars include:

  • Myth 1: A large down payment is required to buy a home.
  • Myth 2: You need perfect credit to qualify for a mortgage.

Credit and Financial Guidance

In addition to the myths about down payments and credit, participants learn about the role of credit in home buying. A major topic of interest is understanding how credit reports are evaluated by lenders.

“The most popular part of the class is often the credit session,” said Carmen Luna, community development officer at Chase Manhattan Mortgage Corp. “People are ignorant about how much credit you must have to buy a home and how lenders look at credit.”

Additional Benefits of Homebuyer Classes

Beyond credit education, the classes also cover:

  • How to address mistakes on credit reports.
  • Legal rights to explain negative credit comments.
  • Guidance on budgeting and how to save for a home.

Case Study: Chris’ Journey to Homeownership

Chris, a participant in a Mission Viejo home-buyers session, appreciated the detailed breakdown of the home-buying process, including:

  • The definition of “escrow”.
  • Understanding closing statements to avoid unnecessary fees.

Through budgeting and guidance from programs like CCCS, Chris is now close to achieving her dream of homeownership.

Conclusion: How Classes Help New Homebuyers

For prospective homebuyers like the Monzellos, these classes helped transform a daunting process into a more understandable and manageable journey. With careful planning, education, and the right guidance, homeownership becomes a more achievable goal.

For information on new home buyers classes in your area, call Consumer Credit Counseling Service at (800) 388-2227 or Fannie Mae’s HomePath hotline at (800) 732-6643.

Dry Ideas : What better for Southern California scenarios than a thirst-quenched garden? A cactus oasis is no barren landscape.

Cactus Gardens: A Peaceful and Low-Maintenance Landscaping Option

When Martin Colver suggested installing a cactus garden in an unused area of his parent’s Costa Mesa backyard, his father, Frank, was uncertain. Planting the cactus would mean removing a 25-year-old pomegranate tree. However, once the garden was installed, Frank quickly saw the benefits.

“The resulting garden is really worthwhile,” said Frank Colver. “Until my son put the cactus garden in, we rarely used that space. Now we sit out there more than any other area of the yard. It’s surprising what a peaceful feeling the garden generates.”

The Beauty of Cactus Gardens

Many people picture cactus gardens as barren wastelands, says Martin Colver, a groundsworker for Newport Beach Parks Division. “But there are many different types of cactus, and they can make a stunning display,” he adds.

With over 2,000 cactus species, the options are vast. Some grow large and make a showpiece, while others are miniatures suitable for smaller gardens or containers. Cactus can grow as trees, with branches, or in traditional barrel shapes.

Popular Cactus Varieties

  • Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii): Dark lime green with yellow spines and a fuzzy yellow top when in bloom.
  • Red Barrel Cactus (Ferocactus stainesii): Dark green with red spines.
  • Candelabra Tree (Euphorbia ingens): A tall succulent with a main trunk and several branches, reaching up to 8 feet in height.

Creating Your Own Cactus Garden

In his parents’ garden, Colver planted over 40 species of cactus, alongside a fountain, bench, and multicolored granite rocks to enhance the peaceful feel. His interest in cactus began seven years ago after a camping trip to Baja, where large varieties of cactus grow. After that, he started collecting cactus from nurseries across Southern California.

Although a full landscaping project isn’t necessary, cactus can make great accent pieces. “Cactus contrast well with plants like palms, hibiscus, and bird of paradise,” says Richard Hipp, owner of the House of Cactus.

Essential Tips for Growing Cactus

  • Light Requirements: Choose a location that is warm and bright, but not full sun all day. Cactus don’t need scorching heat.
  • Soil: Cactus thrive in well-drained, sandy soils. Amend heavy clay soil with raised beds or containers using sandy loam.
  • Watering: Water sparingly during the dormant months (November to February). During the growing period (spring to fall), water weekly, but ensure soil dries out between waterings.
  • Fertilizing: Use a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium during the growing season. Avoid excess nitrogen to prevent weak, disease-prone cactus.

Repotting and Maintenance

Cactus can be repotted any time of the year, but avoid going up more than two pot sizes. Use a cactus-specific soil mix, and add a small amount of clay to retain moisture.

Colver’s parents’ cactus garden has thrived thanks to raised beds that provide excellent drainage, especially during wet winters. Proper soil preparation is essential to prevent rot, especially in areas with heavy clay.

Conclusion

Whether you’re creating an entire cactus garden or simply adding a few accent pieces, cactus are a low-maintenance and visually striking addition to any landscape. With proper care, they can thrive for years, bringing beauty and peace to your yard.

For Bit of History, Turn to Your Lace in the Hole

Growing Queen Anne’s Lace: A Timeless Garden Favorite

Queen Anne’s lace adds an aura of romance and nostalgia to a garden. Often used by florists as a filler in arrangements, the flat-topped, ivory flower clusters resemble small doilies.

“Queen Anne’s lace looks good in any garden situation, but it is especially suited for cottage-style gardens planted near other tall flowers like delphiniums, foxglove, snapdragons, and stock,” says Norm Yoder of Friday House Gardens, a nursery in Country Roads Antiques in Orange.

Though regularly used in floral arrangements and for drying, Queen Anne’s lace is not always easy to find in nurseries. However, its popularity is growing, and some specialty nurseries carry it on occasion.

About Queen Anne’s Lace

A member of the carrot family, Queen Anne’s lace has lacy foliage similar to carrots and dill. There are two main types:

  • Ammi majus: The florist variety, typically larger and more commonly found in nurseries.
  • Daucus carota: The true Queen Anne’s lace, featuring a distinct dark purple dot said to represent a drop of Anne Boleyn’s blood.

How to Grow Queen Anne’s Lace

  • Plant in full or partial sun in well-drained soil.
  • If soil is heavy clay, amend with 50% compost.
  • Fertilize with an all-purpose granular fertilizer at planting, and use a phosphorus-rich fertilizer before bloom.
  • Water regularly to keep soil moist but not soggy.
  • For containers, use pots at least 14 inches deep. Amend soil with compost and fertilize as above.
  • Deadhead flowers to encourage more blooms and prevent self-seeding.
  • Cut when flowers peak; they last up to two weeks in water.
  • To dry, hang upside down in a cool, dark space until completely dry.
  • Save seeds by letting some heads mature. Let seeds drop naturally or collect and replant them later.

Seed Sources

  • Ledgerwood Seeds – Carlsbad, carries Ammi majus seeds. (619) 729-3282
  • Heirloom Garden Seed Co. – Guerneville, CA, carries Daucus carota seeds. (707) 887-9129

Refrain for Fab Fruits: Strawberry Yields Forever

Grow Delicious Strawberries in Your Garden

Gardeners who grow strawberries will tell you there’s nothing more delicious than a berry pulled out of the garden and popped right into your mouth. Bursting with flavor, vine-ripened strawberries are soft, juicy and unforgettable.

Why Strawberries Are a Garden Favorite

A low-growing perennial with pretty green foliage and small white flowers, the strawberry is the quickest cropping of all garden fruits. Now is the perfect time to plant strawberries, which are available at many nurseries.

Types of Strawberries

  • Traditional Strawberries: These are the classic berries used in dishes like strawberry shortcake.
  • Alpine Strawberries: Smaller berries descended from wild Italian varieties, Alpines have a strong, raspberry-like flavor and are considered a gourmet delicacy in Europe.

In our mild climate, Alpine strawberries and many traditional types—such as Seascape, Quinault, and the pink-flowered Pink Panda—bear fruit year-round, with the heaviest harvest in spring.

Strawberry Planting Guidelines

  • Choose the Right Spot: Select a sunny location that stays cool in summer. Use shade cloth or plant tall annuals (sunflowers, corn, beans) to protect plants during hot days.
  • Prepare the Soil: Strawberries thrive in light, well-draining soil. Amend generously with compost or planter mix.
  • Try Containers: Containers provide excellent drainage and control over soil conditions, reducing weeds and pests. Use pots with drainage holes and pre-moistened potting mix. Allow 2–4 inches of space between plants.
  • Plant with Care: Position the crown (the thick center of the plant) properly—¼ to ½ inch below and above ground level. Match the container depth if replanting. Firm soil around roots after planting.
  • Use Bare-Root Plants: These affordable, dormant plants are soil-free and easy to plant. Great for planting large quantities economically.
  • Fertilize Wisely:
    • Before planting: Use organic nitrogen-rich fertilizers such as blood meal, bat guano, or high-nitrogen bone meal.
    • At flowering: Apply bone meal for phosphorus and potassium. Limit nitrogen to avoid excess leafy growth with no fruit.
    • Schedule: Fertilize in-ground plants monthly; container plants every two weeks.

Where to Find Strawberry Plants

A variety of nurseries carry strawberry plants:

  • Laguna Nursery – Laguna
  • Laguna Hills Nursery – Lake Forest
  • Armstrong Garden Center – Santa Ana
  • M&M Nursery – Orange (has bare-root)
  • Kitano’s Garden Center – La Palma (has bare-root)

Good Treehouse Timber

Top Trees for Treehouses: Recommendations from Arborists

Start with a Professional Evaluation

Before building a treehouse, consult a certified arborist to ensure your chosen tree is structurally sound. Arborists Alden Kelley and James Barry frequently help homeowners evaluate trees for their suitability.

It’s also wise to hire a civil engineer to draw up plans and check with your city to determine whether a building permit is required.

Recommended Trees for Treehouses

Below is a list of trees considered strong and stable enough for supporting treehouses:

  • Avocado
  • California Sycamore (Platanus racemosa)
  • Camphor Tree (Cinnamomum camphora)
  • Cape Chestnut (Calodendrum capense)
  • Catalpa (Catalpa bignonioides or C. speciosa)
  • Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
  • Coast Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia)
  • Evergreen Pear (Pyrus kawakamii)
  • Holly Oak (Quercus ilex)
  • Lemon (large-sized varieties)
  • Lily-of-the-Valley Tree (Crinodendron patagua)
  • Modesto Ash (Fraxinus velutina ‘Modesto’)
  • Fruitless Mulberry (Morus alba, fruitless varieties)
  • Olive (Olea europaea)
  • Pecan (Carya illinoensis)
  • Sawleaf Zelkova (Zelkova serrata)
  • Southern California Black Walnut (Juglans californica)
  • Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)

Sturdy Support for Developing Nature

There’s Territory Free for the Claiming in Orange County: Think Treehouses

Why Build a Treehouse?

As a child growing up on the East Coast, outdoor adventures often meant exploring a nearby forest. But in today’s urban and suburban settings, outdoor play is limited to small lawns and concrete.
When my husband and I started our family, we longed for more open space—and then we built a treehouse.

A treehouse offers kids a private perch to view the world, and to our surprise, it became a calming and magical retreat for adults too.
“Treehouses aren’t just for kids,” says Jeff Powers, co-owner of Earthscaping in Laguna Beach.
“They can serve as private getaways for reading, art studios, or even computer rooms.”

Ideal Trees for Treehouses in Orange County

According to Powers, some of the best backyard trees in Orange County for building treehouses include:

  • Oak
  • Avocado
  • Chinese Elm
  • California Sycamore
  • Cape Chestnut
  • Pecan
  • Southern California Black Walnut

Not all trees are suitable, warns Tom Larson of Integrated Urban Forestry. The wrong tree or improper installation can cause damage or death to the tree.
Fullerton consulting arborist Alden Kelley adds that ideal trees have strong, durable wood and open canopy structures that minimize branch removal.

When Additional Support is Needed

Some trees may require structural support, such as beams camouflaged with vines. These include:

  • California Pepper Tree
  • Eucalyptus
  • Italian Stone Pine
  • Aleppo Pine
  • Ficus nitida
  • Ficus rubiginosa

Design Considerations

Tree structure influences the treehouse’s size, height, and shape. According to arborist James Barry:

  • Tree branches do not rise as the tree grows—your treehouse stays at the same height.
  • Access should match your family’s needs—from kid-friendly ladders to adventurous rope-only entrances.

Tree Characteristics Ideal for Treehouses

  • Strong, tough wood that doesn’t secrete gum or resin
  • Low-branching or multiple trunk divisions
  • Moderately mature (15+ years)
  • Rooted in at least 24–28 inches of soil
  • Few surface roots
  • Open branch structure—remove no more than 3–4 small branches
  • No thorns or sharp leaves
  • Evergreen species preferred for year-round coverage
  • Consider neighbor privacy and avoid overlooking windows
  • Located away from power lines and structures to reduce fall risk

Tips for a Healthy Treehouse Tree

  • Use frame-supported ladders—don’t nail rungs into trunks.
  • Avoid tying anything tightly around branches or trunks.
  • Apply a 4–6 inch layer of mulch over the surrounding soil to prevent compaction and cushion falls.
  • Consider fall-safety cushions like Safety Deck II or Fibar System.
  • Water and fertilize regularly using organic fertilizers at the root zone.
  • Hire licensed, insured arborists for conservative pruning to ISA or National Arboriculture Assn. standards.

Holidays Bring Out Best in Sasanqua Camellias

Decorate Your Outdoors with Camellia Sasanqua

If you’d like your outdoors colorful and decorative this holiday season, plant Camellia sasanqua. These camellias are now in bloom and come in many colors, including a variety known as ‘Yuletide’, which has bright red flowers.

“Unlike other types of camellias, which require shady conditions, Sasanqua camellias can handle any exposure and actually bloom more in full sun,” says Vince Hakes, owner of Huntington Garden Center in Huntington Beach.

Sasanqua camellias are available in 1- and 5-gallon containers. They grow from 3 to 8 feet high and 4 to 5 feet wide, with some reaching up to 15 feet.

Growth habits vary:

  • Upright growers: Ideal for vertical space
  • Spreading varieties: Great for covering wider areas
  • Cascading types: Perfect for hanging baskets

Popular Varieties of Camellia Sasanqua

  • ‘Yuletide’ – Upright, small single red flowers
  • ‘Setsugekka’ – Upright and bushy, large white semidouble flowers
  • ‘Apple Blossom’ – Spreading with large white-petaled blooms edged in pink or red
  • ‘Chansonette’ – Cascading, with large pink double flowers, great for baskets

How to Grow Camellia Sasanqua Successfully

  • If you receive a camellia as a gift, avoid keeping it indoors for more than 10 days to prevent damage from dry, warm air.
  • Plant in well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Amend garden soil with at least 20% azalea/camellia or acid planting mix.
  • For containers, use:
    • 12- to 14-inch pots for 1-gallon plants
    • 16- to 18-inch pots for 5-gallon plants
  • Ensure the trunk base stays above the soil and free from debris.
  • Mulch with a 2-inch layer of compost to maintain even root temperature.
  • Fertilize monthly (when not in bloom) with an acidic plant food. Avoid fertilizing during blooming season.
  • Water deeply when the soil dries out, but don’t let the plant become soggy.
  • Watch for aphids in spring and treat with water spray or insecticidal soap.
  • Prevent petal blight by clearing dropped leaves and flowers. Dispose of affected debris properly.
  • Prune after blooming. Remove dead/diseased wood and shape as needed to encourage upright growth.

December Planting Guide

Even with the busy holiday season, your garden doesn’t have to be neglected. December is a great time to plant flowers, vegetables, shrubs, and bulbs. Transplants are often preferable due to slower seed germination in low light conditions.

Flowers

  • African daisy
  • Alyssum
  • Armeria (sea pink)
  • Calendula
  • Candytuft
  • Carnation
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English daisy
  • Foxglove
  • Gaillardia
  • Hollyhock
  • Iceland poppy
  • Larkspur
  • Nasturtium
  • Pansy
  • Penstemon
  • Poinsettia
  • Primula
  • Santa Barbara daisy
  • Snapdragon
  • Society garlic
  • Stock
  • Sweet Pea
  • Viola
  • Wildflowers

Vegetables

  • Artichoke
  • Arugula
  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprout
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Collards
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard green
  • Onion
  • Parsley
  • Parsnip
  • Peas
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Potato
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Strawberry
  • Swiss chard
  • Turnip

Trees & Shrubs

  • Australian fuchsia
  • Australian tea tree
  • Azalea
  • Blue hibiscus
  • Camellias (C. Sasanqua)
  • Cape mallow
  • Flowering maple
  • Westringia

Bulbs

  • Amaryllis
  • Anemone
  • Calla lily
  • Canna
  • Crocus (chilled 8 weeks)
  • Daffodil
  • Dutch iris
  • Freesia
  • Gladiolus
  • Grape hyacinth
  • Hyacinth (chilled 8 weeks)
  • Lily
  • Narcissus
  • Ranunculus
  • Tigridia
  • Tulip (chilled 8 weeks)
  • Watsonia

Leave It to Fertilizer for Quick Solution

Foliar Feeding: A Fast Fix for Struggling Plants

Got any sickly plants in need of a fertilizer boost? If so, bypass the roots and spray soluble fertilizer on the leaves. Known as foliar feeding, this method has a number of benefits.

Why Foliar Feeding Works

“The main advantage of foliar feeding is that nutrients enter the plant more quickly,” said Christopher Totten, a certified ecological horticulturist for Oregon-based Whitney Farms.

“With foliar feeding, the nutrients can be absorbed into the leaf tissue within a day of application, which is faster than through the roots,” he said.

Jim Kitano, manager of Kitano’s Garden Center in La Palma, agrees. “Apply fertilizer to the leaves and it affects the plant right away, whereas fertilizer added to the soil can take days, weeks or even a month to be absorbed,” he said.

Benefits During Cold Weather

During winter, foliar feeding can be even more effective, as cold soil slows down root absorption.

Effective for Nutrient Deficiencies

Foliar feeding is especially helpful for correcting micronutrient deficiencies, like iron deficiency (chlorosis), which causes yellowing between leaf veins. When severe, entire leaves may turn yellow.

“A plant can collect almost any micronutrient sprayed on its leaves,” said James Vlamis, a plant physiologist emeritus at UC Berkeley. “In the case of iron deficiency, we’ve seen greening in four or five days.”

Additional Benefits

  • Quickly greens up yellowing plants
  • Discourages spider mites by moistening foliage
  • Works well on slope gardens where granular fertilizers are hard to apply

Important Caveats

Experts caution that foliar feeding should supplement, not replace, root fertilization.

“Nothing beats the root system for taking things into a plant. Roots were created for feeding plants.” — James Vlamis

Macronutrients vs. Micronutrients

Foliar feeding is best suited for applying micronutrients like iron, zinc, and manganese. For macronutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and potassium, root feeding remains more efficient due to the large quantity plants need.

Soil Acidity and Iron Uptake

In areas like Orange County where soils are often alkaline, iron becomes less available to plants. This makes foliar feeding more effective. Plants prone to iron deficiency include:

  • Azaleas
  • Gardenias
  • Hydrangeas
  • Rhododendrons
  • Citrus
  • Camellias

Soil Amendments for Long-Term Solutions

  • Work in compost regularly
  • Add gypsum or soil sulfur
  • Use iron chelate in the soil

Foliar Fertilizer Options

Options include:

  • Organic: liquid sea kelp and/or fish emulsion
  • Chemical: water-soluble fertilizers

Always read the package. If foliar use isn’t mentioned, ask a nursery expert before applying.

Application Tips

  • Foliar feed early in the day so leaves dry by evening to prevent fungus
  • Follow package instructions to avoid leaf burn
  • Use hose-end sprayers for large areas; atomizers for smaller areas
  • Add a surfactant (like a few drops of mild dish soap) to help fertilizer stick
  • Spray the undersides of leaves, where stomata are located for better absorption
  • Feed every 2–4 weeks depending on plant needs and fertilizer type

Japanese Anemone Knows Its Place–Between Summer, Winter

Japanese Anemone: A Refreshing Fall Bloomer

This time of year, when heat-loving summer flowers are fading and many cool-weather bulbs are just starting to wake, it’s refreshing to see the Japanese anemone in full bloom.

A graceful plant with 1-foot, dark green, semi-hairy leaves and 2- to 4-foot high stems sporting semi-double flowers in white or pink, this hardy perennial blooms from September through November, although it looks good even when not in bloom.

“Though it’s not a commonly grown plant, Japanese anemone is a great addition to many gardens,” said Norm Yoder, co-owner of Friday House Gardens, an Orange nursery specializing in old-fashioned perennials, herbs and antique bulbs.

Some varieties commonly found in nurseries include:

  • September Charm (pink)
  • Pink
  • Honorine Jobert (white)

Now is the time to plant Japanese anemones, which can be found in most nurseries in 1-gallon containers.

Planting Tips from Norm Yoder

  • Plant in semi-shade: Japanese anemones prefer a spot protected from harsh sun. They thrive under deciduous trees that offer summer shade and allow more light in the cooler months. They also look great under high-branching trees or in front of tall shrubs.
  • Consider eventual size: These perennials grow into a leafy clump about 2 feet across.
  • Prepare the soil: Use homemade or bagged compost to amend soil. Ensure it is rich and well-draining. Improve drainage in slow-draining spots or choose another location.
  • Try containers: Japanese anemones can be grown in containers. Replant 1-gallon nursery plants into 12- to 14-inch pots. Repot or divide the roots in spring when the plant becomes root-bound.
  • Fertilize twice a year: Feed in fall and spring with slow-release chemical or organic fertilizer.
  • Water regularly: Keep soil slightly moist, but not soggy. They are not drought-tolerant but don’t need excessive watering.
  • Be patient: Japanese anemones are slow to establish but will thrive once settled. They are long-lived and bloom reliably each fall.
  • Stimulate new growth: Remove dead leaves and cut spent flower spikes at the base.
  • Propagate in spring: Divide roots into 1- or 2-inch clumps and replant. Expect blooms again by fall.

October Planting Guide

October is one of the best gardening months in Orange County. The weather is mild, making it the perfect time to transition from warm-season to cool-season crops. Here’s what you can plant this month:

Flowers (from seed or starter plants)

  • Agapanthus
  • Alyssum
  • Bachelor’s Button
  • Calendula
  • California Poppy
  • Campanula
  • Canterbury Bell
  • Carnation
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Dahlia
  • Delphinium
  • Dianthus
  • English Primrose
  • Felicia
  • Foxglove
  • Iceland Poppy
  • Impatien
  • Japanese Anemone
  • Lantana
  • Larkspur
  • Lavender
  • Michaelmas Daisy
  • Nemesia
  • Pansy
  • Rudbeckia
  • Scabiosa
  • Scented Geranium
  • Schizanthus
  • Shasta Daisy
  • Snapdragon
  • Stock
  • Sweet Pea
  • Sweet William
  • Viola
  • Wildflowers
  • Yarrow

Vegetables

  • Artichoke
  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Collards
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Horseradish
  • Kohlrabi
  • Kale
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard Greens
  • Onion
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Shallot
  • Spinach
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnip

Herbs

  • Chamomile
  • Chive
  • Cilantro
  • Comfrey
  • Dill
  • Feverfew
  • Lavender
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme

* Researched by JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS / for The Times

An Appropriate Time to Resort to the Use of ‘Force’

Brighten Winter Days by Forcing Bulbs Indoors

If you’re the type of gardener who spends the winter months anticipating the first flowers of spring, you might want to try “forcing” bulbs. By providing favorable conditions indoors, you can trick many bulbs into blooming during winter—well before they would normally flower outdoors. This technique is called forcing, which stimulates a plant to bloom out of season.

Though the effects are stunning, forcing bulbs is quite easy. By controlling the climate, you create an environment that causes the bulb to bloom earlier.

Now is the perfect time to make your selections for forcing, said Marty Bailen, a nursery salesman at Rogers Gardens in Corona del Mar.

“We have a great selection of bulbs now,” he said. “For forcing, you want the biggest bulbs possible because they’ve stored the most energy and will give you the best show.”

Why Force Bulbs?

  • Brighten up the house when the garden is dormant
  • Many forced bulbs are fragrant
  • Containers make inexpensive and impressive holiday gifts
  • Fun indoor activity for children

Best Bulbs for Forcing

According to Bailen and Dan Davids of Davids & Royston Bulb Co. in Gardena, these are the best choices:

  • Paper-white narcissus
  • Hyacinth
  • Amaryllis (especially South African varieties)
  • Chinese sacred lily (Narcissus tazetta)
  • Soleil d’Or (Narcissus tazetta)
  • Iris danfordiae
  • Iris reticulata
  • Crocus
  • Tulips

Note: Forced bulbs often use up their food supply and may not bloom again. Most are best discarded after flowering.

Methods for Forcing Bulbs

1. Water Forcing

  • Use conical or hourglass-shaped containers
  • Place bulb above water line; roots grow down into water
  • Bulbs must not touch the water to avoid rot

2. Medium Forcing

  • Use pebbles, sand, vermiculite, or perlite to support bulbs
  • No nutrients in medium, but it keeps bulbs upright

3. Soil Forcing

  • All bulb types can be forced in potting soil
  • Amaryllis must be forced in soil rather than water

How Long Do Forced Bulbs Bloom?

  • Amaryllis: 2 to 3 weeks
  • Paper-whites: About 1 month
  • Hyacinths: 2 to 4 weeks
  • Tulips: Just 1 week

Tips for Successful Bulb Forcing

  • Choose large, firm bulbs—avoid soft or damaged ones
  • Pre-chill certain bulbs (hyacinth, crocus, tulips) for 4–6 weeks in a ventilated bag in the vegetable crisper
  • Use suitable containers for each method
  • Place water-forced bulbs just above the water surface
  • Embed bulbs halfway to three-fourths into the medium for soil or pebble forcing
  • Add activated charcoal to water to prevent odor or change water frequently
  • Pack bulbs closely for a fuller color display

Rooting and Lighting Guidelines

After planting:

  • Place in a cool, dark place (e.g., basement or garage) for root development
  • Hyacinths may need up to 6–7 weeks in darkness
  • Move to dim light once roots and growth appear (4–6 inches tall)
  • Gradually increase light exposure until ready for a bright room

Alternative method: Dan Davids suggests skipping the dark period. Start bulbs outdoors in the shade and move them indoors after 6–8 inches of growth.

Care Tips After Forcing

  • Place in a bright but indirect light location
  • Avoid drafts, heater vents, and direct sunlight
  • Water when medium dries or water level drops
  • Discard bulbs once blooms fade—they won’t rebloom

Estimated Bloom Times from Planting

  • Amaryllis (South African): 8–12 weeks
  • Chinese sacred lily: 6–12 weeks
  • Crocus: 6–12 weeks
  • Hyacinth: 12–16 weeks
  • Iris danfordiae / reticulata: 12–16 weeks
  • Paper-whites: 4–6 weeks
  • Soleil d’Or: 6–12 weeks
  • Tulips: 12 weeks

Flax: Hard to Kill, Easy on the Eyes

Phormiums: The Rising Star of Landscape Design

Ask any horticultural expert for a list of up-and-coming plants, and phormiums are likely to top it. Heralded by some as “the plant of the decade,” phormiums are in hot demand by landscape designers and home gardeners alike.

In the last five years, these easy-to-grow plants with striking, colorful foliage have gone from being obscure collectors’ items to stars of home and commercial gardens, said Randy Baldwin, general manager at San Marcos Growers in Santa Barbara—a wholesale grower that propagates, develops, and sells phormiums to Orange County nurseries.

“The requests for phormiums are incredible,” said Baldwin. “We are always scrambling to fill demand. Last year alone we sold 20,000 plants.”

Also known as New Zealand flax, these plants are available at various local nurseries. However, supplies may be limited and change frequently. You can also ask your local nursery to order specific types from wholesale growers.

What Makes Phormiums Special?

Though some varieties flower, phormiums are best known for their striking foliage. These evergreen perennial accent plants have bold, sword-like leaves that resemble oversized iris foliage.

Color Variety

The foliage comes in an impressive array of colors:

  • Pale cream
  • Amber
  • Bright gold-yellow
  • Pink, salmon, apricot
  • Brilliant red, orange
  • Bronze, scarlet, maroon, and purple-black

Some phormiums are solid-colored while others have beautiful striping or colored edges.

Garden Compatibility

Phormiums blend well with most landscape styles and are especially suited for:

  • Mediterranean gardens
  • Tropical-style gardens

“Phormiums soften up the edges in a tropical garden,” said Gary Matsuoka of Laguna Hills Nursery. “They pair well with hibiscus and require less maintenance than agapanthus and daylilies.”

Species and Sizes

  • Phormium tenax: Upright form, reaches 8–9 feet tall. Commonly found in green, bronze, and maroon shades. Very drought tolerant.
  • Phormium cookianum (Mountain flax): More compact, 4–5 feet tall with arching foliage. Offers a soft, grassy look.

Hybrids of these two species offer the most vibrant colors and a mix of upright and arching growth forms.

Sizes range from tiny ‘Thumbelina’ at 5–6 inches to the towering ‘Sundowner’ at 8 feet tall. Leaf widths vary from half an inch to 4 inches, and some varieties have variegated leaves.

Flowers

  • P. tenax: Reddish-orange flowers, about 2 inches long.
  • P. cookianum: Yellow-green flowers, around 1 inch long.
  • Hybrids: Rarely flower.

Durability and Adaptability

Don’t be fooled by their elegant appearance—phormiums are tough. They stand up well to salt spray and thrive in coastal climates. Some P. tenax can even handle wet soils if their crown remains above the soil line. In Latin, “tenax” means sturdy.

“In the ground, phormiums are drought resistant and seem nearly indestructible,” says Matsuoka. “They also do well in containers, as long as you don’t let them dry out. If they dry out, they’ll rot when watered again.”

Generally, P. cookianum and hybrids are not quite as tough as P. tenax, but they’re still hardy plants.

A Brief History

Native to New Zealand, phormiums were first cultivated by the Maori people around 1200. They used the fibrous leaves to make baskets, mats, and household items.

In 1773, Captain James Cook encountered phormium during his voyage to the South Pacific. European settlers later exported it in bulk to Britain, as its fibers were among the strongest known.

The botanical name Phormium comes from the Greek word phormos, meaning basket.

In the 1950s and ’60s, architect Thomas Church brought them into fashion in California gardens. Interest waned in the following decades, only to be reignited in the mid-1980s with the introduction of colorful new hybrids.

Tips for Growing Phormiums

  • Choose a sunny location: More sun means richer foliage color.
  • Protect delicate varieties: Drooping-leaf types can suffer from sunburn. Place them in filtered light or shield them from harsh midday sun.
  • Avoid planting in walkways: Their long, arching leaves can be tripping hazards, warns Baldwin.

Urban Village Has It All Close at Hand

Rancho Santa Margarita: A Quiet, Friendly Community Designed for Living, Working, and Playing

The Vision Behind Rancho Santa Margarita

In 1978, after leaving his job as a master planner for the Irvine Co., Richard Reese planned to take a year off in the Greek Islands. However, his plans changed when he was asked to evaluate 5,000 acres of South Orange County. Upon seeing the scenic land from Chiquita Ridge, with its canyons, chaparral hillsides, and Saddleback Mountain views, he felt inspired to design a planned community. He never made it to Greece—instead, he helped design what would become Rancho Santa Margarita, where he still resides.

Location and Layout

Nestled in a valley between Mission Viejo and Coto de Caza, Rancho Santa Margarita is framed by Saddleback Mountain and bordered by:

  • South: Las Flores and Oso Parkway
  • East: Chiquita Ridge and Plano Trabuco Road
  • North: Trabuco Canyon and Saddleback foothills
  • West: Portions of Mission Viejo and O’Neil Regional Park

A Community in Harmony with Nature

Often called Orange County’s first urban village, Rancho Santa Margarita was developed as a self-contained, environmentally conscious community:

  • Over 50% of the 5,000 acres is devoted to open space and recreation
  • A man-made lake and beach club
  • An 18-hole golf course
  • 24 athletic fields and seven community parks

Walkable and Connected Living

Residents enjoy the ability to walk or bike throughout the community, thanks to trails linking homes to:

  • Recreational areas
  • Shops and restaurants
  • Schools and daycares
  • A library and post office

The town center features a traditional mix of housing, dining, shopping, and entertainment.

A Vision Realized

“We wanted to create an old-fashioned hometown atmosphere where people could experience a more nurturing lifestyle,” said Reese, who purchased a three-bedroom home for $190,000 in 1986.

The vision was so successful that in 1992, Barbara Walters referred to Rancho Santa Margarita as a “modern-day Shangri-La” on 20/20. Planners and developers worldwide continue to study its design.

Affordable Housing Options

The original pricing made homeownership accessible:

  • Condos from $55,000
  • Single-family homes starting at $113,000

Current resale market (as of 1995–96) includes:

  • Condos (600–1,100 sq ft): $58,000–$100,000
  • Homes (1,000–1,800 sq ft): $148,000–$200,000
  • Large homes (2,000–3,000 sq ft): $210,000–$400,000

Builders include John Laing Homes, K. Hovnanian, Warmington Homes, and more. Lewis Homes purchased 500 lots to develop properties ranging from $160,000 to $270,000.

New Construction Highlights

  • Two-bedroom, two-bath condos near the golf course: under $110,000
  • Average new home (1,500–2,000 sq ft): $175,000–$225,000
  • Luxury five-bedroom homes (3,400 sq ft): around $310,000

Resident Sam Nasser chose the community for affordability and amenities, purchasing an 870 sq ft detached home for $124,000.

Community Testimonials

Casey Lancaster moved from Long Beach and bought a 948 sq ft condo for $94,000 in 1995. She enjoys the peaceful setting and walkability. Even though she commutes to Torrance, the drive is worth it to come home to such a serene place.

Mel and Kathy Mercado were drawn by the area’s beauty and community feel. After buying multiple properties since 1987, they now live in a four-bedroom home and take full advantage of local amenities like the beach club and boating.

The Origins of the Town

The concept began in 1983 when Anthony Moiso, great-grandson of landowner Richard O’Neil, bought 5,000 acres to build a new type of master-planned community. Construction began in 1985, with homes first sold in 1986. Business development followed in 1987, and by 1993 the population exceeded 20,000. The opening of the Foothill Transportation Corridor in 1995 enhanced accessibility.

Rancho Santa Margarita Home Sale Data (1987–1996)

  • Average home size: 1,647 sq ft
  • Average build year: 1986
  • Average beds: 3.22 | baths: 2.57
  • Homes with pool: 1%
  • View homes: 17%
  • Central air: 64%
  • Located in flood zone: 94%
  • Predominant price: $165,000
  • Age range: 8–14 years

Yearly Home Price Averages

  • 1996 (thru March): $183,400 – $115.34/sq ft
  • 1995: $189,666 – $121.75/sq ft
  • 1994: $178,363 – $131.00/sq ft
  • 1993: $191,500 – $124.99/sq ft
  • 1992: $199,363 – $146.09/sq ft
  • 1991: $209,500 – $141.25/sq ft
  • 1990: $236,850 – $136.11/sq ft
  • 1989: $274,635 – $132.85/sq ft
  • 1988: $198,666 – $118.28/sq ft
  • 1987: $157,684 – $99.21/sq ft

Source: TRW Redi Property Data, Anaheim

Dusting Off a Tip, Gardeners Get a Piece of the Rocks

Rock Dust: The Secret to Healthier Plants and Soil

Organic farmer Bob Cannard, known for growing 10-pound beets and carrots for a juice company and gourmet restaurants, shares his secret to large, mouthwatering produce: rock dust.

Cannard has used ground-up rock and compost on his plants for 25 years. He applies no other fertilizers and never uses pesticides on his 136 acres of farmland in Sonoma. According to him, rock dust is a natural, effective way to nourish plants.

What is Rock Dust?

Rock dust, found in nature, is a byproduct of the gravel industry. In places like Orange County, gardeners often use gypsum, a type of rock dust made of calcium and sulfur, to help neutralize alkaline soil. Many believe that rock dust ground naturally by glaciers or rivers is the best option due to its wide range of minerals from various stones.

The Benefits of Rock Dust

Here’s why rock dust is considered an essential soil amendment:

  • Improves Soil Health: Plants are healthier and more disease-resistant in soil re-mineralized with rock dust.
  • Better Taste: Fruits and vegetables grown with rock dust are said to taste better.
  • Loosens Clay Soil: Rock dust helps to break down dense clay soil, improving its structure.
  • Long-Term Soil Benefits: Unlike chemical fertilizers, rock dust is a slow-release amendment that provides nutrients for months.

Cannard explains, “I wouldn’t be a farmer today if I didn’t use rock dust. It’s important to build the soil because you can’t grow high-life plants out of low-life soil. Thanks to the rock dust, my plants have a good mineral supply. They’re strong and healthy and are never bothered by bugs.”

Rock Dust vs. Traditional Fertilizers

Unlike soluble chemical fertilizers that provide an instant nutrient boost but quickly leach away, rock dust works over time, continuously enriching the soil. Plant pathologist David Miller states that rock dust increases the microbe level in the soil, helping plants absorb more minerals.

R.J. Schwichtenberg of Hummingbird Landscape Care compares rock dust to whole wheat bread versus white bread. “Rock dust is a more complete product that is naturally integrated into the soil. In contrast, chemical fertilizers leave behind harmful salts that can damage the soil.”

Microbe Activity in Healthy Soil

Soil microbes, such as mites, nematodes, and worms, thrive in high-mineral environments. When these microbes die and decompose, they release minerals in a form easily absorbed by plants. According to Walt Zmed of Earth Wealth, “Rock dust feeds the microbes, which helps build soil fertility and prevent erosion.” Zmed believes that using rock dust benefits both your garden and the earth.

Real-World Success with Rock Dust

Santa Barbara organic farmer John Givens has also seen positive results using rock dust on his farm. “We’ve used it since 1987 and have been able to grow a variety of crops on land that was once difficult to farm,” he says.

Availability of Rock Dust

While rock dust is hard to find in local nurseries, it is available through mail-order companies. A 20-pound bag costs as little as $6.50, covering about 50 square feet. Experts recommend adding generous amounts of rock dust for the first two to three years, then switching to annual maintenance. For example, a mature rose bush needs 3-4 pounds per year, while a mature tree requires 8-10 pounds annually.

The Historical Background of Rock Dust

The benefits of rock dust have been recognized for over a century. In the 1890s, American chemist Julius Hensel published the book Bread from Stones, which promoted rock dust as a way to enrich the soil. Interest in rock dust revived in the 1970s, and today, it is used by a growing number of home gardeners and organic farmers.

Keeping Cucumbers From Growing Astray

Exploring the World of Cucumbers

Unless you grow cucumbers, you may not realize that this juicy, refreshing vegetable comes in many types and sizes. Besides the traditional thick-skinned green cucumber, there are other varieties worth exploring:

Popular Cucumber Varieties

  • Lemon Cucumber: A light yellow cucumber the same size, color, and shape as a pale lemon.
  • Armenian Cucumber: Known as yard-long cucumbers, these can grow quite long and tend to have a sweet, mild flavor with thin skins.
  • Dwarf Bush Varieties: Perfect for containers, offering compact growth.
  • Pickling Cucumbers: Ideal for making your own pickles.
  • Burpless Cucumbers: A variety that is easy on digestion and very mild.

Cucumbers thrive in warm weather and can be planted now by seed or transplant. According to Wendy Krupnick, garden manager of Shepherd’s Garden Seeds, some cucumbers are juicy enough to be picked straight from the vine and eaten like an apple.

Growing Cucumbers: Tips for Success

To have success growing cucumbers in your garden, follow these expert tips:

  • Find a Sunny Location: Cucumbers need full sun to thrive. If you’re in a hot inland area, a little afternoon shade can prevent plant stress. Aim for at least 5-6 hours of full sun each day.
  • Prepare the Soil: Incorporate organic material like homemade or bagged compost into the soil. Work the material down to at least 8 inches, or ideally 12 inches deep.
  • Water Properly: Cucumbers have deep tap roots and require long, slow soakings. Avoid overhead watering, as it promotes mildew.
  • Fertilize at Planting: Use well-rotted manure or a balanced organic fertilizer when planting. If leaves turn yellow, it’s likely a nitrogen deficiency, and a dilute solution of fish emulsion will help.
  • Support with a Trellis: Growing cucumbers on a trellis or fence prevents contact with the soil, protecting them from rot, mold, and mildew. It also saves space and makes harvesting easier.
  • Planting Distance: Space cucumber plants 2-3 feet apart in pairs, or plant them singly about 6-8 inches apart.
  • Protect from Birds: Cover seedlings with berry baskets to discourage birds. Remove the baskets once the plants are larger.
  • Monitor for Pests: Watch for cucumber beetles and aphids. Aphids can be controlled with soap spray or a strong water blast. Cucumber beetles, resembling green ladybugs, should be manually crushed.
  • Use Garden Cloth: To keep cucumber beetles away, cover plants with lightweight garden cloth. Remove it once the plants begin flowering so that pollination can occur naturally.
  • Pick Early: Harvest cucumbers before they become too large, as this keeps them tender and flavorful.

Learn More

For more information or to receive a free catalog, call Shepherd’s Garden Seeds at (408) 335-6910.

For a Healthy Carrot Crop, Make Some Amendments

Growing Your Own Carrots: A Garden Delicacy

Commercial carrots need to ship well and are grown to be fibrous. However, home-grown carrots are intensely sweet and crunchy, making them the perfect garden delicacy. You can often pull them out of the garden, brush them off, and eat them right away.

Not only are fresh carrots tasty, but they’re also rich in beta carotene, the naturally occurring form of Vitamin A.

Carrot Varieties: More Than Just Orange

Although you probably picture the traditional long orange carrot, the vegetable comes in a wide range of colors, shapes, and sizes, says Wendy Krupnick, horticultural advisor for Shepherd’s Garden Seeds in Felton, Calif. Their seeds can also be found in some nurseries.

“There are white carrots, purple carrots, round and short carrots,” she says.

Growing carrots also means you can enjoy gourmet “baby” carrots, which are often sold at a high price in specialty markets.

Carrot plants aren’t found in nurseries because it’s a root crop that must be planted by seed.

Planting Carrots: Best Practices

March is an ideal month to plant carrots, which germinate best in cool weather. Keep the following tips in mind to ensure a successful harvest:

  • For a good carrot crop, the soil must be loose, rich, and fast draining. Carrots are roots and cannot push their way through hard, compacted earth. Grow them in poor soil, and they’ll be stunted, gnarled, and tasteless.
  • Loosen hard clay soil and prepare it for planting by generously amending it with homemade or bagged compost. Other good amendments include aged grass clippings, aged manure, coffee grounds, and high-quality sandy loam, which can be purchased through a contractor or landscape company.
  • Carrots grow especially well in raised beds and containers because the soil is easier to control. In containers, use a good potting mix and add compost for extra richness. Stick to dwarf carrots under five inches long, such as Short and Sweet, Tiny Sweet, Red Core Chantenay, Little Finger, and the golf-ball-size Thumbelina.
  • When working ground soil, loosen it to at least 18 inches.
  • Add a fertilizer high in phosphorus when planting, such as bone meal, to promote strong root growth.
  • Choose a carrot variety suited for heavy clay soil. These varieties tend to be short, blunt, and/or round. Avoid long, thin carrots.
  • Pick a location that gets sun most of the day. Ensure that the area drains well, as waterlogged carrots will rot.
  • Carrot seeds are tiny, brown, and hard to see. To ensure even distribution, mix the seeds with sand. Some seed catalogs sell seed tape, which is biodegradable tissue paper with seeds attached. You can also buy a carrot seed dispenser.
  • Plant carrot seeds about one-eighth inch deep and keep them moist but not soaked. If the seeds dry out, they will quickly die.
  • To prevent carrot seeds from washing away when watered, cover them with burlap or newspaper and water until they germinate.
  • Be patient, as carrot seeds can take several weeks to germinate.
  • Thinning is often necessary. Hand-pull the carrots when they reach 1 to 2 inches high, aiming for a final spacing of about 2 inches apart.
  • Carrots need frequent fertilizing. Use diluted applications of an all-purpose fertilizer containing phosphorus.
  • Keep carrot plants evenly moist. Alternating wet and dry conditions will cause carrots to split.

Seed Catalogs: Where to Find Carrot Seeds

Here’s a sampling of mail-order companies that carry a variety of carrot seeds. All offer free catalogs:

  • Gurney’s Seed & Nursery Co., 110 Capitol St., Yankton, SD 57078, (605) 665-1930.
  • Nichols Garden Nursery, 1190 N. Pacific Highway, Albany, OR 97321, (503) 928-9280.
  • Park Seed Co., Cokesbury Road, Greenwood, SC 29647, (800) 845-3369.
  • Shepherd’s Garden Seeds, Order Department, 30 Irene St., Torrington, CT 06790, (408) 335-6910.
  • Stokes Seeds, P.O. Box 548, Buffalo, NY 14240-0548, (716) 695-6980.

Hummingbird Feeders : Perennial Penstemon, Commonly Called Beard Tongue, Serves Its Colorful Buffet of Blooms Much of the Year

Penstemon: The Perfect Snapdragon Alternative

If you like the look of snapdragons but want something that lasts more than one season, try penstemon. These perennials grow into small shrubs that blossom much of the year, are rust-resistant, and attract hummingbirds.

Penstemon come in a variety of colors, including red, pink, salmon, peach, deep rose, lilac, white, violet, and lavender. They can be found at the nursery now and do well when planted in February.

Varieties of Penstemon

There are many types of penstemon, commonly called beard tongue, most of which are native to the western U.S., Canada, and Mexico. The variety found in most nurseries is border or garden penstemon (Penstemon gloxinioides). Other varieties are generally grown by specialty growers.

Penstemon is very adaptable and can grow in just about any climate, including the desert and mountains, says Jim Kitano, manager of Kitano’s Garden Center in La Palma.

Penstemon plants growing in front of a garden center

“You don’t see penstemon around a lot, but I think that’s changing; they’re becoming more popular,” says Kitano, who has penstemon growing in front of the store. “Penstemon don’t have to be replaced every year, and they grow really well in the heat of summer.”

Penstemon Growing Tips

Many people plant penstemon as annuals, but they will grow in the garden for years and continue to spread, says Kitano. For healthy penstemon plants, consider the following tips:

  • Find a sunny area in the garden where the penstemon has room to spread. The first year it will grow two or three feet high. By the second year it will spread to two feet across.
  • Don’t plant in heavy clay soil where it would be subject to root rot. If soil has a lot of clay, amend with redwood compost in the amount of three cubic feet per 50 square feet.
  • Add a starter fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium when planting. These minerals initiate strong root and stem growth, which are critical for a healthy plant. Once the plant puts on new growth, it has become established. At that time, begin fertilizing with a mixture high in nitrogen to encourage lush foliage.
  • Water daily until established unless there is rain and weekly thereafter. Water twice a week when the weather is hot.
  • Start seed in a planting tray or pots and transplant in the garden when the plant has become root bound. This occurs when the roots start coming out of the bottom of the pot or when you tap the container lightly and remove the plant and the soil is encircled by roots.
  • If planting in containers, use a pot no smaller than six inches. Within a year, you will probably have to move the plant to an 18-inch pot. Surround the base of the plant with small, draping flowers such as alyssum or lobelia.
  • Deadhead on a regular basis to get blossoms more quickly. Cut off each dead flower stalk at the base of the plant.
  • Keep an eye out for holes in leaves, as insects such as grasshoppers and caterpillars love penstemon.

GARDENING : Vertical Reality: Delphinium Follows Straight and Narrow

Delphinium: The Elegant Flower for Your Garden

Few flowers lend an elegant presence to the garden like the delphinium. This tall, stately plant has stalks covered with flower spikes that come in various colors, including lavender, pink, violet, purple, red, yellow, and white.

Not only are delphiniums stunning, but their blossoms also attract plenty of birds, making them a great addition to any garden.

Now is the time to plant this elegant perennial. Delphiniums planted in December will develop a strong root system over winter and bloom vigorously by April and through August, said Susan Kanno, sales associate and color buyer at Armstrong Garden Center in Santa Ana.

Delphiniums are available in six-packs, 4-inch pots, and gallon containers at local nurseries, or you can purchase them through mail-order catalogs.

Common Varieties of Delphiniums

There are many varieties of colors and sizes to choose from. Some common types include:

  • Pacific Giants: These tall delphiniums can grow up to 8 feet and make great cut flowers. They are mostly blue, but can also be found in white, purple, lavender, and pink. Be sure to stake them once they reach 2 feet tall.
  • Magic Fountains: A shorter variety growing to 2-2.5 feet, available in blue, pink, and violet.
  • Chinese Delphinium: A dwarf variety that thrives in containers, growing up to 1 foot. It has blue flowers with serrated foliage resembling lace.

Tips for Growing Delphiniums

To successfully grow delphiniums, Kanno suggests keeping the following tips in mind:

  • Plant in Groups: Delphiniums are tall, narrow plants that look best when planted in groups or clusters of three or six. Plant them in a sunny spot and avoid setting them in a straight line.
  • Soil Requirements: Provide fertile, loose, well-draining soil. Amend with compost or planter mix when planting.
  • Correct Planting Depth: Plant delphiniums at the same level as the root ball, being careful not to cover the root crown.
  • Regular Fertilizing: Fertilize at planting and then regularly with a balanced organic fertilizer like 5-5-5 or 10-10-10.
  • Mulching: Apply mulch in winter and spring to keep roots warm in cold weather and cool in hot weather.
  • Watering: Water delphiniums regularly to keep the soil evenly moist. Do not let them dry out.
  • Protect from Snails: Delphiniums are a favorite for snails and slugs, so put out snail bait.
  • Post-Bloom Care: After flowering, cut the flower spikes in half and leave a hollow stem to encourage new growth. Once the foliage looks sturdy, completely cut off the old stems.

Where to Purchase Delphiniums

Delphiniums can be purchased through various catalog companies:

  • Park Seed Co.: 800-845-3369. Carries seeds and plants.
  • Wayside Gardens: 800-845-1124. Carries plants only.
  • W. Atlee Burpee & Co.: 800-888-1447. Carries both plants and seeds.

December Planting List

Although the holidays may be on your mind, it’s still a great time for gardening. Here are some flowers and vegetables that can be planted in December:

Flowers from Seed or Starter Plants:

  • African Daisy
  • Alyssum
  • Calendula
  • Candytuft
  • Carnation
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English Daisy
  • Foxglove
  • Hollyhock
  • Iceland Poppy
  • Larkspur
  • Pansy
  • Penstemon
  • Primula
  • Shasta Daisy
  • Snapdragon
  • Stock
  • Viola

Vegetables from Seed or Starter Plants:

  • Artichoke
  • Arugula
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Celery
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard Greens
  • Onion
  • Parsley
  • Peas
  • Radishes
  • Spinach
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnip

Researched by Julie Bawden-Davis / For The Times

GARDENING : Planting Tips Let You Enjoy the Rare Fruits of Your Labor

Exotic Fruits to Grow in Orange County

Do your taste buds yearn for something different? Are home-grown apples and oranges not unusual enough for you? If so, try growing something more exotic—rare fruits!

Thanks to the mild Orange County winters, we can grow a variety of fruits native to other parts of the world, such as jujube, mango, sapote, guava, cherimoya, and carambola.

“Because rare fruits aren’t native to this country, for some people it’s an education of the palate to try them,” said Pat Sawyer of Fullerton, chairman of the Orange County Chapter of the California Rare Fruit Growers.

Those familiar with rare fruits know they can be difficult to find in the market. When they are available, they often come with a hefty price tag, sometimes as high as $8 per pound.

Exotic Fruits Thriving in Southern California

Many rare fruits in Southern California are subtropical and often bear fruit during our fall and winter months, which align with spring and summer in their native habitats.

Why Grow Rare Fruits?

“Rare fruit trees enable you to have fruit all year-round,” Sawyer said. “During colder months, when warm-weather fruits such as peaches and plums aren’t bearing, you can harvest guavas and cherimoyas.”

Not all rare fruits bear in winter. “When a fruit grows depends on the tree and variety,” said Eunice Messner of Anaheim Hills, a member of the Rare Fruit Growers and a rare-fruit gardener for over 14 years. “Some trees fruit all year, while others may have more than one crop each year.”

Popular Rare Fruits to Grow

Some rare fruits are reminiscent of more common varieties, while others offer entirely unique tastes:

  • Cherimoya: Similar in taste to pineapple but without the acidity.
  • Black Sapote: Known as the “chocolate pudding tree” due to its rich, chocolate-like taste and consistency.
  • Miracle Fruit: A small red berry that alters your taste perception, making sour fruits like lemons and limes taste sweet.
  • Jujube: Tastes like a dry, sweet apple when picked green, and like dates when dried on the tree.

Tips for Growing Rare Fruit Trees

Although some rare fruits can be temperamental, many are surprisingly easy to grow with the right care. Here are a few tips for success:

  • Educate Yourself: Learn about the specific needs of the tree you’re planting, as many rare fruit trees are sensitive to temperature changes.
  • Know Your Climate: Ensure you understand your yard’s microclimate, as it can vary significantly from your neighbor’s.
  • Temperature Tolerance: Most rare fruits struggle when temperatures exceed 100°F or fall below 32°F for extended periods.
  • Placement: Plant rare fruit trees on the south side of your house for the most sun, and avoid planting on the north side as it receives little sunlight in winter.
  • Frost Protection: Use a cotton bedsheet to cover your trees during overnight frost and remove it in the morning.
  • Watering: Regular watering is essential, especially for trees in containers, as they have no natural water reservoir. However, avoid overwatering.
  • Mulching: Use mulch to maintain soil moisture and regularly fertilize with an all-purpose fertilizer.
  • Purchase Grafted Trees: When starting out, buy a grafted tree instead of trying to grow one from a seedling.
  • Consider Tree Size: Be mindful of the size your tree will reach when fully grown—some trees, like mangoes, take up a lot of space even in mild climates.
  • Container Planting: For container plants, use pots no smaller than 15 gallons.

Where to Find Rare Fruit Trees

Exotic fruit trees are more challenging to find than regular varieties. Here are some places where you can purchase them:

  • Roger Meyer in Fountain Valley: (714) 839-0796 (evening calls)
  • Laguna Hills Nursery in Lake Forest: (714) 830-5653
  • Green Scene Plant Sale at the Fullerton Arboretum (late April)

For more information on the Orange County Rare Fruit Growers, including a complimentary copy of their newsletter, write to the membership chairman, Orange County Chapter, 1430 West Ave., Fullerton, CA 92633.

How About a Nice Sapote or Jujube?

Rare Fruits You Can Grow in Your Area

People who grow rare fruits do so for the variety in taste and texture these exotic fruits offer. Here is a sampling of lesser-known fruits that can be grown in the area.

Black Sapote

Black sapote, also known as the tropical persimmon, has green skin and a brown to almost jet-black flesh. It is often referred to as the “chocolate pudding tree” due to its rich, chocolate mousse-like taste.

  • The fruit is typically the size of a baseball, but can grow much larger.
  • This small evergreen tree grows up to 9 or 10 feet and is susceptible to frost damage.
  • The fruit ripens from March to May.

Carambola (Star Fruit)

Carambola, commonly known as star fruit, gets its name because its slices resemble stars. The fruit is crunchy like an apple and is often used in salads or as a garnish.

  • The tree is medium-sized, with small leaves and inconspicuous lavender flowers.
  • It bears fruit in the spring.

Cherimoya

Cherimoya resembles a large avocado and has a creamy, custard-like flesh with a flavor similar to pineapple but without the acidity.

  • The tree has large, oval-shaped leaves and is very sensitive to cold.
  • For large fruit (up to 5 pounds), hand-pollinate the plant.
  • Cherimoya bears fruit from December to March.

Jujube (Chinese Date)

Jujube is a popular fruit in China and is often called the Chinese date. Fresh jujube tastes like a dry, sweet, crispy apple, while dried jujube resembles a date.

  • Jujube trees are small and narrow, making them suitable for cramped spaces.
  • They thrive in various soil conditions.
  • Fresh fruit is available from mid-August to October, and dried fruit can be harvested in late fall and winter.

Miracle Fruit

Miracle fruit is a small, almost flavorless berry that alters your taste buds, making sour foods like lemons and limes taste sweet.

  • This shrub can be grown in a container and requires protection in cooler weather.
  • It thrives in acidic soil with regular fertilization.

Pineapple Guava (Feijoa)

Pineapple guava, also known as feijoa, is a small tree with edible fuchsia-like flowers. The fruit has a creamy texture and small seeds.

  • This tree bears fruit from September to January.
  • It is commonly grown in Southern California for its ornamental qualities.

Surinam Cherry

Surinam cherry offers an alternative to the Bing cherry, which does not thrive in the mild weather. The fruit is cherry-sized, ribbed, and ranges from orange to red.

  • It has a tropical taste that slightly resembles the Bing cherry.
  • The tree bears fruit year-round, with its peak harvest in spring or summer.

White Sapote

White sapote is a soft, creamy fruit that is hard to find in the market due to its delicate nature. It has a thin green skin and a custard-like texture with a slight lemon flavor.

  • Some varieties, like the McDill, can grow as large as a softball.
  • It starts as a shrub but eventually grows into a tree.
  • White sapote bears fruit from September to January.

Holiday Harvest : Planting Now for December Blooms Will Yield a Winter Wonderland, Orange County Style

Holiday Plants for Your Garden

Instead of relying on outdoor lights for color in your yard this Christmas, why not add holiday cheer naturally with plants?

In our mild Southern California weather, there are many plants that will enliven the landscape with color in December, says Dana Point landscape designer Jeff Garton of Paradise Designs Inc. However, these annuals and perennials need to be planned for and prepared months in advance.

“There’s a real joy to making a winter garden as full as any other time of year,” he said. “A colorful winter garden can make the holiday season even more special.”

Many December blooming plants also make great cut flowers for the holiday table.

The following December bloomers are suggested by Garton and San Juan Capistrano landscape architect John Greenwood of Greenwood Associates Inc.

Bulbs

If planted now, many bulbs may come up in the garden around the holidays, depending on the weather and planting location. These include certain varieties of:

  • Amaryllis
  • Daffodil
  • Narcissus
  • Hyacinth
  • Crocus
  • Iris
  • Tulip
Cyclamen flowers in various colors

Cyclamen: Certain varieties of this perennial bloom during the December holidays. They come in a variety of colors, including white, pink, rose, and red. The flowers are striking, and the heart-shaped foliage is attractive. They do well in containers.

Perennials

Kaffir Lily (Clivia miniata): This evergreen perennial has tuberous roots and blooms from December through April. It is native to South Africa and grows best in bright but not direct light. The flowers come in yellow/orange and red/pink.

Annuals

  • African Daisy (Dimorphotheca): These daisy-like flowers grow best in light soil with moderate watering and full sun. They come in colors like yellow, white, orange, apricot, and salmon.
  • Pot Marigold (Calendula officinalis): These flowers come in orange, yellow, apricot, and cream. It’s highly adaptable and grows in most soils and moisture conditions.
  • Iceland Poppy: This perennial blooms in December, with vibrant colors like yellow, orange, salmon, rose, and pink. It needs full sun and well-drained soil.
  • Ornamental Cabbage or Kale: Known for their colorful leaf rosettes, these annuals grow well in sunny conditions but tolerate some shade.
Cabbage or Kale in a garden

Snapdragon: Transplants set out in early fall begin blooming around Christmastime if the plant reaches the bud stage before temperatures drop below 50°F.

Perennials (Continued)

  • Camellia: Many of the sasanqua varieties bloom heavily in December. The ‘Yuletide’ variety features red flowers.
  • Candytuft (Iberis sempervirens): This perennial blooms early in mild areas, with pure white flower clusters that are perfect for cutting.
  • Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii): This plant requires cool night temperatures and 12–14 hours of darkness each day to bloom in December.
  • Christmas Heather (Erica canaliculata): This evergreen shrub with tubular flowers comes in pink and reddish purple, making it perfect for the holiday season.
  • Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger): This perennial has two-inch-wide flowers that change color over time, starting white and turning purple.
  • English Primrose: This perennial blooms in December and is ideal for coastal areas or shady spots inland.
  • Holly: Known for its red berries and variegated leaves, holly comes in several varieties. Female plants require male plants for berry production.
  • Primrose Jasmine (Jasminum mesnyi): This evergreen shrub blooms bright yellow flowers from November through April.
Primrose Jasmine yellow flowers

Going Against the Green

Plants that Add Interest to Your Fall Garden

There are many plants that add interest to the fall garden by going beyond simply flowering. These plants grow well in the Orange County area, say Ron Vanderhoff, manager of Flowerdale Nursery in Santa Ana, Laguna Beach landscape architect Ann Christoph, and Dana Point landscape designer Jeff Garton.

Trees, Shrubs, and Vines with Fall Color

  • Boston Ivy (Parthenocissus tricuspidata) ‘Veitchii’
  • California Sycamore (Platanus racemosa)
  • Chinese Flame Tree (Koelreuteria bipinnata)
  • Chinese Pistache (Pistacia chinensis)
  • Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)
  • Doublefile Viburnum (Viburnum plicatum) ‘Mariesii’
  • European White Birch (Betula pendula)

Plants with Seed Heads and Pods

  • Agave species
  • Blue Oat Grass (Helictotrichon sempervirens)
  • California Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum)
  • Deodar Cedar (Cedrus deodara)
  • Fountain Grass (Pennisetum rubrum) – red or purple
  • Giant Feather Grass (Stipa gigantea)
  • Maiden Grass (Miscanthus sinensis) ‘Gracillimus’
  • Money Plant (Lunaria Annua)
  • Yarrow (Achillea filipendulina; A. millefolium)

Plants that Produce Berries or Fruit

  • California Pepper Tree (Schinus molle)
  • Chinaberry Tree (Melia azedarach)
  • Christmas Berry Bush (Heteromeles arbutifolia)
  • English Holly (Iliex aquifolium)
  • Japanese Persimmon (Diospyros kaki)
  • Loquat (Eriobotrya japonica)
  • Mahonia
  • Natal Plum (Carissa macrocarpa)
  • Night Jessamine (Cestrum nocturnum)
  • Pomegranate (Punica granatum)

Ornamental Bark or Stems

  • African Sumac (Rhus lancea)
  • Cajuput Tree (Melaleuca quinquenervia)
  • California Sycamore (Platanus racemosa)
  • Chilean Blueberry (Luma apiculata)
  • Compact Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo ‘Compacta’)
  • Corokia (Corokia cotoneaster)
  • European White Birch (Betula pendula)
  • Evergreen Elm (Ulmus sempervirens)
  • Gum Myrtle (Angophora costata)
  • Ironbark Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus sideroxylon) – red or pink
  • Lemon-Scented Gum Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus citriodora)
  • Pink Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) ‘Rosea’
  • Pittosporum (Pittosporum tenuifolium)
  • Strawberry Madrone (Arbutus) ‘Marina’
  • White Ironbark Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus leucoxylon)

Falling for Autumn : Seeds of Change Begin in a Landscape of Colors and Textures

Creating a Fall Garden in Southern California

If you’re one of those Southern California gardeners who misses the change of seasons found in other areas of the country, reconsider your evergreen landscape and plant a fall garden that announces the coming of cooler months.

When the landscape is all evergreen and unchanging, Orange County gardeners can get bored, said Ron Vanderhoff, manager of Flowerdale Nurseries in Santa Ana and Costa Mesa. “By interspersing your yard with plants that strike a note of fall and winter, you create a dynamic, changing landscape with different tones, textures, and shapes that invites you to go out and explore it,” he said.

Many deciduous trees, such as the liquidambar, produce a fall color display in our mild climate. When allowed to go to seed, other plants display interesting seed heads and pods, sometimes more beautiful than their original flowers.

The Mickey Mouse plant (Ochna serrulata) has unremarkable early summer flowers. But when the flowers fall off and the sepals turn vivid red, they fill with seed-like fruit that eventually becomes a glossy jet black. That’s when the plant catches a lot of attention.

Festive Fall Plants for Your Garden

Many plants have a festive berry display in the fall and winter, such as:

  • Pyracantha or firethorn, which offers a wide variety of berry colors.
  • California pepper tree, covered in sprays of rosy-red pepper berries that hang on through winter and attract birds.

Many gardeners also appreciate trees with attractive bark or whose branches, when bare, resemble stunning aerial sculptures. For example, the crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) has smooth, textured bark that gets striking blotches of brown, rust, and orange, especially after rain and a little sunshine.

Although many Southlanders avoid deciduous plants, these are usually the ones that provide a true sense of seasonal change. “Deciduous plants aren’t as labor-intensive as they might seem,” said Vanderhoff. “In many ways, they’re easier than evergreens, because they only lose their leaves once a year, whereas evergreens can lose leaves all year long.”

Consider pairing a ginkgo tree with a ficus, as it produces a profusion of golden yellow leaves that linger until they drop all at once. Or, plant a Chinese flame tree (Koelreuteria bipinnata) next to your juniper. This tree has leaves that briefly turn yellow before dropping, and its showy, two-inch seed capsules hang in clusters of orange, red, and salmon.

Most seed heads and pods last through autumn and some into winter, although they will succumb to rough weather, especially Santa Ana winds and hard rain. Although leaves tend to change color and drop by the end of autumn, many berries hang on to plants throughout our mild winters. Textural bark often looks even better in rainy, cool weather.

Minimal Maintenance for Your Fall Garden

The best benefit of this type of fall garden is that very little maintenance is required. If you’ve taken good care of the plants in spring and summer, they should produce ample seed and fruit in the fall, according to Laguna Beach landscape architect Ann Christoph.

If you do light pruning in the garden, be careful not to remove any seed heads you wish to keep, as they won’t grow back. Also, avoid knocking off seed pods and capsules.

For a real fall garden show, put away your pruning shears and just watch, Vanderhoff suggested. “Let the plants grow in their natural manner, rather than doing a lot of formal clipping and tidying, and you’ll probably see something different.”

Adjust your watering schedule. Water requirements drop considerably in the fall and winter, so don’t over-water.

Designing Your Fall Garden

No matter what your garden design, there is something with fall interest that will fit into your landscape, says landscape designer Jeff Garton, co-owner of Paradise Designs Inc. in Dana Point.

When planning a landscape with plants that have seed heads or pods or interesting stem structures, consider the following:

  • Place plants with seed heads or unusual structures against a clean background like a bare wall.
  • Consider lighting, both day and night. Ornamental grasses and leafy or lacy trees look best with backlighting that highlights them as they move in the wind.
  • Plants with sculptural branching look best with front lighting to create interesting shadows on a plain background.
  • Ornamental bark is best viewed up close, so plant at eye level and near windows for full effect.

You can also highlight these plants by placing them among evergreens. Garton also cautioned that plants you let go to seed may reseed in other areas of your yard, and some of these plants have pollen, which may be a problem for allergy sufferers.

When it comes to a more natural garden, a gardener must have tolerance for leaf drop and seed scattering. “But it’s all a part of winter and fall,” Vanderhoff said. “Why not go out and rake up the leaves and enjoy the change of seasons your yard has to offer?”

GARDENING : In the Midst of a Hot Summer, Delicate Plants Will Be Mist

Protecting Your Plants in the Summer Heat

While fanning yourself in the summer sizzle, remember that your plants are probably as uncomfortable as you are. When the thermometer passes 85 degrees, the heat is counterproductive to any plant, according to Steve Hollister, manager of Armstrong Garden Center in Irvine. Hot, dry weather can even be lethal for certain delicate plants.

Delicate Plants at Risk

Plants such as fuchsias, ferns, impatiens, azaleas, camellias, clivia (kaffir lily), shade palms, and hydrangeas prefer cool, shady conditions. Most of these plants are from moister environments, so the lack of humidity during hot months is especially drying and damaging. Plants in pots and hanging baskets are also at risk of drying out, as are lawns, which tend to be shallow-rooted.

For all plants, but especially delicate ones, ample water is critical in the heat. “Like all living things, a plant’s requirement for water skyrockets as the temperature rises,” said Hollister. “People often don’t notice a plant is thirsty until there are signs of wilting. Increase your watering before plants are injured.”

Gary Matsuoka, owner of Laguna Hills Nursery in Lake Forest, said, “To compensate for lack of water, the plant will shut down its leaves and begin using just one-tenth of the water it used before the drought. It’s important not to overcompensate afterward with too much water, because you will probably drown the plant. Water the plant once well, and then let it rest until the soil is dry again.”

Watering Tips for Hot Weather

In high temperatures, you can damage even healthy plants with too much watering. “Though fuchsias like moist conditions, they will develop a fungus in the root system if they are kept continually wet and soggy.”

With your finger or a moisture gauge, check your plants before watering to make sure they are truly dry. Some plants look wilted in the hot sun but are actually wet at the root zone. This occurs because the leaves are losing water faster than the roots can pump water to them. Blindly watering in this case interrupts the pumping of water to the leaves. Let the roots continue pumping uninterrupted, and the plant should perk up by the end of the day when the sun is low.

One thing you can’t overdo is misting delicate plants. Misting greatly increases the humidity level around the plants and lowers the temperature, creating the type of habitat in which they thrive. There is a nozzle mist head known as Fogg-it that fits on the end of your garden hose and sprays a super fine mist on plants.

Other Protection Strategies for Delicate Plants

  • Move container plants to cooler, shadier areas, such as under a patio or tree.
  • Temporarily shade immovable plants with barriers like shade cloth or a movable plant that can withstand hot sun.
  • Program your sprinklers to water more frequently.
  • Mulch to keep plants moist. Good mulches include homemade compost, planter mix, and peat moss for acid-loving plants such as azaleas.
  • Give your lawn enough water. During hot weather, grass should be watered for three, five-to-10-minute periods about an hour apart. If you water too much at once, 95% of the water doesn’t soak in.

To make sure your lawn is getting the water it deserves, test your sprinkler system by placing empty cans throughout the yard. Turn on the sprinkler for two minutes, then turn it off and check the water level in the cans to ensure the water is evenly distributed.

Use a plant anti-transpirant. Most of the water taken up by plant roots is lost when the leaves transpire. Anti-transpirants, such as the product Cloud Cover, reduce water loss through the leaves without compromising plant health.

  • Avoid cooking the roots of potted plants by placing pots close together so they shade each other.
  • Protect exposed branches and trunks of avocado and mango trees from sunburn by whitewashing them with light-colored latex paint.
  • Be on the lookout for warm-weather pests. Spider mites thrive in dry, dusty conditions, so regularly knock them off with a strong spray of water on the plant leaves. Whiteflies must be treated with a pesticide using a five-day spray cycle. For caterpillars and worms, such as the tomato hornworm, use Bacillus thuringiensis (BT).

GARDENING : The Coast Is Clear for Growers

Tending Coastal Plants: Unique Challenges and Solutions

Gardening by the coast presents unique challenges, including the need for plants that can withstand salt air, constant winds, and mild temperatures. Here’s what you need to know to succeed in coastal gardening.

Choosing the Right Plants for Coastal Gardens

Selecting plants that thrive in salt air, constant wind, and high humidity is key to a successful coastal garden. Common plants suited for these conditions include:

  • Bananas
  • Bougainvillea
  • Ferns
  • Hibiscus
  • Impatiens
  • Fuchsias

The coastal climate, especially along Orange County shores, provides a subtropical environment where these plants can thrive year-round.

The Influence of the Ocean on Coastal Gardening

The ocean plays a dominant role in shaping the coastal climate, and it impacts growing conditions in several ways. Here’s how horticulturists divide the coastal area into three zones:

  • Seacoast 1: Right on the ocean, plants must tolerate extreme conditions, including salt in the soil and salt spray.
  • Seacoast 2: Adjacent to Seacoast 1, protected by natural or artificial barriers. Plants in this zone experience some salt but aren’t directly sprayed by saltwater.
  • Seacoast 3: Further inland, where salt air still influences the environment, but the soil typically has no salt. Plants here must tolerate some salinity.

The width of each zone varies depending on terrain, and gardeners must assess their garden’s location to determine which zone it falls into.

Advantages of Coastal Gardening

Gardening on the coast offers some distinct advantages:

  • The mild weather allows for year-round planting, unlike inland gardens where summer heat can hinder plant growth.
  • Coastal gardeners can comfortably work throughout the day, unlike inland gardeners who must avoid midday sun.

Challenges of Coastal Gardening

However, coastal gardening comes with its challenges, particularly the inability to grow certain plants that need higher heat and more sunlight:

  • Roses, zinnias, and crape myrtle trees often struggle due to the cooler climate.
  • Certain vegetables, like tomatoes and peppers, may not thrive, even when planted in varieties suited to coastal conditions.
  • Fruit trees like grapefruit, oranges, and grapes require more heat and sunlight to thrive.

Growing Fruit Trees on the Coast

Some fruit trees may struggle due to the lack of winter chilling, a requirement for many fruit trees like peaches and apples. However, certain varieties are bred for coastal environments:

  • Bonita and Babcock peaches
  • Gordon and Beverly Hills apple varieties

Despite these limitations, some gardeners are determined to try growing non-coastal plants in their seaside gardens. For example, Robert Andri of Laguna Beach successfully grows plants like Japanese black pines and plumeria despite being told they wouldn’t thrive in coastal conditions.

Salt-Tolerant Plants

Certain plants can handle the harsh salt air, including:

  • Carissa
  • Myoporum
  • Ice plants
  • Yucca
  • Manzanita
  • Monterey cypress
  • Saltbush

Plants like these often have small or waxy leaves that help them survive coastal conditions by preventing excessive water loss and protecting them from wind damage.

Handling Extreme Coastal Weather

Coastal gardeners also face extreme weather challenges, particularly the drying Santa Ana winds. These winds can devastate coastal plants that are used to moist conditions. To protect plants from these harsh winds, experts recommend:

  • Moving hanging baskets to protected areas
  • Using fogging nozzles to increase humidity in the garden

Managing Pests and Diseases

Coastal climates can foster an increase in pests and diseases due to high humidity. Common pests like snails, slugs, and insects thrive in these conditions. To manage these issues:

  • Inspect plants regularly for pests and diseases.
  • Remove damaged branches, leaves, and spent flowers where insects may hide.

Deficit Disorder DRIVEN TO DISTRACTION

A decade ago, doctors thought attention deficit disorder faded with maturity. Now drugs and coping skills can help adults with ADD comprehend much that had been misunderstood.

August 09, 1995
| JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

For most of his life, Greg Stull found listening to family, co-workers, and friends torture. “After a minute or two of struggling to pay attention, I felt as if ants were crawling all over me. I’d have to change the subject or get up and move around,” says the computer software engineer, who works in Irvine.

Stull, 33, heard what people said but found even the simplest messages hard to comprehend. “I tried to listen, but it was impossible for long,” he says. “It was like sitting in the back of a flatbed pickup truck going 100 miles an hour down a bumpy dirt road. Remembering information and drawing conclusions from facts was really difficult. I felt stupid for having to try so hard when others didn’t seem to have to.”

Stull has a condition most people associate with children rather than adults: attention deficit disorder.

He was found to have ADD as a child, and doctors predicted it would disappear as he grew. It didn’t, but Stull and those around him assumed that it had. For years, during his late teens and 20s, Stull struggled unknowingly with it. Sheer willpower and determination propelled him through college and into the computer field, but he found it hard to stay at a job.

Five years ago, in frustration, Stull decided to seek help. He confided in his family physician his fear that he might still have the disorder that had plagued him in childhood. His doctor, it turns out, was found to have ADD and knew what specialists would be best for Stull to see.

Behavioral and physiological testing confirmed that Stull had not outgrown ADD. He was taught coping techniques and prescribed Ritalin, the drug most commonly used to treat ADD. The change in his life was dramatic he says: Communicating with his family, friends, and co-workers was no longer a chore.

The first childhood diagnosis of this neurological and biochemical condition was made by a British pediatrician in 1902. Until just 10 years ago, doctors thought ADD faded with maturity. They’ve since found that isn’t always the case.

Adult ADD Diagnosis

“In the past five years, I’ve had a gradual onslaught of adult patients afflicted with what we call residual ADD,” says psychiatrist Jean-Louis Le Renard, who has a private practice in Huntington Beach and is an assistant clinical professor at UCLA.

“When they find out what is wrong, many adults are very happy to know that there is a name for their suffering and effective treatment is available,” he says.

About one-third of children with ADD continue to experience the problem in adulthood, although it often goes undetected or is misdiagnosed as depression or another behavioral problem, according to Le Renard. Other experts put the percentage even higher.

Symptoms of ADD in Adulthood

  • Extreme distractibility
  • Destructive impulsiveness
  • Moodiness
  • Temper flare-ups
  • Depression
  • Disorganization
  • Sleep difficulties
  • Difficulty beginning and completing tasks
  • Fatigue
  • Low stress tolerance

Estimates vary on the number of people who have the disorder, but many experts concur with statistics compiled by the Ohio-based Attention Deficit Disorder Assn., which show that 5% of Americans, adults and children, have the disorder.

“I don’t think ADD has increased in frequency,” Le Renard says. “Like many medical conditions, it went unrecognized and left on the sidelines for so many years. We have become more sophisticated and knowledgeable in identifying the problem.”

ADD has the distinction of being the fastest-growing mental disturbance diagnosis for adults. As more and more people are diagnosed, the use of Ritalin has skyrocketed. In the past four years, prescriptions for the drug have risen nearly 400%.

This statistic alarms some experts in the field, such as clinical psychologist Richard Bromfield, who is a faculty member of Harvard Medical School in Boston. “Ritalin is amphetamine related, can be addicting and is still controversial,” Bromfield says.

The Controversy Over Ritalin

“Inevitably, every good medicine, from antibiotics to Valium, has been widely overprescribed and abused, so why wouldn’t that happen with Ritalin?” Bromfield asks. “While all of these drugs are miracles for some people, they can be harmful to individuals who don’t warrant them.”

Bromfield said he doesn’t question the existence of ADD but believes that it is over-diagnosed. “I think that just 1% to 2% of the population actually has ADD,” he says.

Psychologist Joan Andrews has worked with many ADD clients, currently at Coastline Counseling Center in Newport Beach and previously as a school district psychologist in Irvine for 12 years.

Understanding ADD Causes

“In many cases, the person with ADD is having difficulty with an under-arousal of the brain,” she says. “The centers that are supposed to control ability and moderate impulses are not working well.”

In their search for a cause, researchers are looking at environmental factors such as toxins, fetal distress, and head injuries. They are also examining the role that genetics may play.

Ritalin, which would be a stimulant to the normal person, is thought to increase levels of dopamine, a neurotransmitter or chemical in the brain that people with ADD have less of than others, Andrews says.

“At the correct dosage level of Ritalin, a patient’s brain activity moves into a normal range,” she says. When Ritalin is combined with various coping techniques, many ADD sufferers go on to live much easier lives.

Gender Differences in ADD

Both men and women experience ADD, but the outward signs of it can take on different forms or be interpreted differently. Whereas a male with ADD might be seen as aggressive, a female with ADD is more likely to be seen as spacey.

For years, Denise Medina knew there was something wrong, but doctor after doctor couldn’t find anything–or would misdiagnose her disorder. “I had a variety of symptoms, such as depression, mood swings, memory loss, a short attention span and tardiness,” says Medina, 30, a makeup artist and stylist who works in Santa Ana.

Denise Medina’s Story

Medina was found to have a learning disability, but she knew there was something else wrong. No one pinpointed ADD until she was 28. “When I discovered the problem, I was really mad that I had wasted all that time,” she says. “If I had found out when I was younger, I think I could have prevented certain things that happened in my life. At the same time, I was relieved to find out that I wasn’t stupid and that there was medication for my problem.”

With a Home-Based Job, the Benefits Are Hard to Beat

Balancing Work and Family: The Benefits of Working from Home

On a typical workday, Matt Keefe leaves his home office at lunchtime and greets his 5-year-old daughter, who is just returning from school. The two enjoy lunch together while she shares highlights of her day.

“By working at home, I spend much more time with my daughter than I would if I had to leave the house every day like my own father did,” said Keefe, 47, an Orange County commercial photographer who has worked from home for 18 years.

Keefe finds that lunching with his daughter, Alex, and spending short breaks with her throughout the day keeps their relationship strong.

“When I want a break, I go out and push her on her swing set for a few minutes,” said Keefe, who is divorced but regularly has his daughter stay with him.

Matt Keefe and his daughter enjoying a break during work

“It’s really refreshing to see her excitement and enthusiasm when I share a small part of her day. I feel lucky that I’m experiencing a lot of those golden moments that won’t be around long.”

The Growth of Home-Based Businesses

Although the practice was unusual when Keefe started working from home in the 1970s, today a growing number of people are choosing to conduct business at home. California has nearly 5 million home offices, according to Debra Schacher of the Home Office & Business Opportunities Assn. of California, which is based in Irvine. Throughout the country in 1993, about 2.1 million people started a home-based business.

“Home-based businesses are proliferating,” agreed Rudy Lewis of the National Assn. of Home Based Business in Baltimore, which provides support and development assistance to home-based businesses.

“We’ve identified 200 professions that are adapted to home office work, and by the year 2000 we project that there will be 300 to 400,” Lewis said. “Thanks to advances in telecommunications, a lot of businesses are heading home.”

Benefits of Working from Home

  • Home businesses allow parents to monitor their children’s activities more easily.
  • Flexible schedules make it easier to attend special occasions.

“If I choose to go to a special function at my daughter’s school during the day, I don’t have to ask a boss for time off,” Keefe said. “Just recently she was awarded Student of the Month. In the morning, I took her to the school assembly and went back to work later.”

Matt Keefe balancing work and family

Challenges of a Home-Based Business

Despite the benefits, working from home comes with its own set of challenges. As Rudy Lewis points out:

  • Family members may not view the business as legitimate.
  • There can be distractions from neighbors and family members.
  • It’s difficult to balance work and child care without additional support.

“One of the problems with home-based businesses is that many people, including the person’s family, don’t see it as a legitimate business,” Lewis said. “I’ve been working from home for 10 years now and answer 300 to 400 calls a day from people all over the country. My mother still doesn’t think I’m really working.”

Lewis also notes that spouses and others often expect the home worker to take care of the children, which is not always feasible, especially with young kids. Neighbors might also cause disruptions by dropping in when you’re trying to focus on work.

Setting Boundaries

Lewis suggests creating a family plan before launching a business from home. He believes that some businesses can overwhelm the home environment, affecting family life. “It’s best to discuss the business with the entire family and set ground rules before starting.”

Work-life balance challenges

Keefe emphasizes the importance of setting boundaries: “To be productive, it’s critical that your family and friends respect the fact that you are working and need to put in regular hours.”

“I sometimes have difficulty with people thinking because I’m not taking photographs one day that I’m not working,” he said. “In reality, I’m always working. There’s much more to my business than photography.”

Keefe also finds child care essential for maintaining productivity.

The Importance of Child Care

“It would be very difficult to work from home without child care,” Keefe said. “I can’t just bring my daughter home from school, feed her and then put her in front of the TV while I go back to work. That’s not healthy or even safe.”

Sandra Davidson, 35, of Laguna Niguel, used to work around the schedules of her two children, which meant early mornings and late nights in her home office. Recently, she hired a live-in worker to assist with child care and office duties, which has significantly improved her work-life balance.

“Before I had child care, I constantly felt behind on my work and worried about neglecting my kids,” Davidson said. “Although people often expect to take care of their children when they work at home, it’s not really feasible. Parents who go to an outside office would never dream of taking their children to work every day.”

Conclusion

While working from home offers many perks such as flexibility and proximity to family, it also requires careful planning to avoid distractions and ensure productivity. For parents, having reliable child care support is crucial for balancing work and family life.

Solitary Confinement : Despite the Desire to Settle Down, Some People Stay Single, for Better or Worse

On the surface, Tara appears to have it all. The 31-year-old professional model travels the United States, appearing in catalogues and Sunday advertising supplements. She owns her home and lives a glamorous life that many would envy.

“Friends and acquaintances think I’m independent, successful and don’t need anyone,” said Tara, who asked that her last name not be used. “But the truth is, I’m not that happy being alone. In the past few years I’ve found myself hoping that each person I begin dating will be The One.”

Despite her yearning for a commitment, she hasn’t found a soul mate.

Despite being perceived as successful, many chronically single people yearn for a committed relationship. The late social worker and author Karen Jenkins, in her book “Chronically Single Women: How to Get Out of the Singles Trap” (Health Communications Inc., 1994), addressed this dilemma, explaining that those who struggle with finding lasting relationships can feel increasingly isolated.

There are a variety of reasons why people remain single despite desiring an enduring relationship, says Mission Viejo psychologist Cathearine Jenkins-Hall:

  • “On average, people are better at shopping for a new pair of shoes than they are at finding a mate,” she says. “When it comes to a partner, many people have no idea what they want and don’t realize that relationships involve compromise. Instead, they look for this vague wonderfulness that doesn’t exist.”
  • “In many ways, marriage is like being a millionaire,” she adds. “Most of us want to be wealthy with all the glamour and excitement we imagine it will give us, but do we really want the hidden responsibilities attached to caring for all of that money?”

Another reason for being chronically single is unclear self-identity, as Tara discovered through introspection:

  • “I realized that I’m not ready for the right person yet, because I don’t know myself,” she says. “I need to be happy being single before I can find someone. I can’t expect someone else to make me happy.”
  • “I had a whole list of what I wanted a guy to be,” Tara admits. “If he didn’t fit the bill, I wasn’t interested. If he did have what I wanted, I’d worry I’d lose him. Now I’ve decided to accept the other person for who he is.”

Other people remain single because they gravitate toward people they would never marry, or continue dating individuals who are preoccupied with previous relationships.

For about nine years, Kevin, 36, found himself dating women who were going through divorces or just breaking up with longtime boyfriends.

“For many years, I was the transition guy,” says Kevin, a mechanic in Santa Ana. “At first, the women would view me as the best thing that ever happened to them. Then after awhile they’d stop returning my phone calls.” Despite this, Kevin remains hopeful but discouraged about finding the right partner.

Lori, 40, from Westminster, also finds the single life excruciatingly solitary. Despite a series of failed relationships, Lori longs for companionship:

  • “During the week I’m fine because my work in the medical field keeps me busy and fulfilled,” she says. “But the weekends are very difficult. I’ll spend the days with friends and their children and the nights all alone with my pets. All I want is what my friends with solid marriages have–companionship.”
  • “I’ve done everything but put a billboard on the 405 Freeway,” Lori adds. “I’ve taken classes at college on how to meet single people, answered personal ads, and told all my friends and work associates that I’d like to meet someone.”

Despite numerous efforts, Lori is still searching for love and laments that many men her age are either married or chasing younger women. She feels as though she has missed her chance.

Some chronically single people are deeply hurt by an early relationship, which sets up emotional barriers that prevent future relationships, such as Ann, 27, who has had 13 relationships since her teens but struggles to trust men after a devastating breakup in her youth.

Diagnosing Chronic Singleness
Are you a chronically single person? You may be if you agree with three or more of the following statements:

  • I have a hard time making or sustaining eye contact with people I’m attracted to.
  • I am afraid to let a person see my interest in him or her.
  • It takes a lot of sex appeal to get a man’s or woman’s attention.
  • The idea of letting someone really know me is very frightening.
  • It is better to have a lover you wouldn’t marry than to be alone.