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If you’ve ever had to remove a tree, you know how much work taking out the stump can be. Many gardeners find it easier (and less expensive) to leave the stump, while some go a step further and plant in it. Tree-stump planters add a touch of whimsy to the garden and make great focal points.

You may even find that you like the look so much that you want to add additional tree-stump planters to your landscape. Such planters are made from the trunks of trees.

Here are some tips for creating a tree stump planter for your yard this summer.

Hollow out the stump. If a tree stump is new, it will take more work to create a container out of it, as the wood will still be green. Tree stumps that have deteriorated for some time will be easier to hollow out. Either way, you’ll need a mattock or pickaxe to create a planting cavern. Wear safety glasses when you hollow out the stump.

After you’ve created a hollow in the stump that is at least 6 to 10 inches deep and wide, use a drill to make ½- to 1-inch in diameter drainage holes. Space the holes 3 to 4 inches apart and include holes on the sides near the base of the stump so that the water has a place to drain rather than pooling at the bottom, where it is likely to break down the base of the stump.

Fill the stump with soil. For best growing results, mix 75 percent well-draining potting soil with 25 percent compost. Fill the stump with the mix and then water well to settle. If after watering the soil settles to more than 1 inch below the stump rim, add more soil and water again.

Plant. Anything that grows well in a container will thrive in a tree stump planter. Plant annual or perennial flowers or small shrubs. To create a stunning focal point, combine three types of plants in the stump. Start by planting something tall and upright, like Echinacea, in the center of the stump. Surround that plant with medium to low-growing plants like geranium, and then fill the edges with trailing plants that spill over the sides of the stump planter, like lobelia.

( Landscaping Plants Nursery)

Whatever plants you do choose, make certain they are compatible in terms of required lighting.

Maintenance. Treat a stump planter as you would any container garden. Keep the soil moist but not soggy. Feed the plants every two weeks with an organic all-purpose fertilizer throughout the rest of summer and into early fall.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Looking for a summer and fall flower that offers a rainbow of bloom colors, thrives in just about any landscape and can be drought tolerant when necessary? Plant some daylilies. The botanical name for these easy-to-grow plants is Hemerocallis, which comes from two Greek words that mean beauty and day. The day refers to the fact that the each bloom only lasts a day. There are, however, many buds on one flower stalk that keep blooming over a long period.

Daylilies come in a wide variety of sizes—from 6 inches to 8 feet tall, with 3 to 4 feet the most common. The plants generally grow in a clump, which can spread to about a foot wide. Flower colors run the gamut, including bi-colored blooms. Common daylily colors include yellow, orange, pink, red, purple, white, cream and even brown.

(Claudia Meyer/FreeImages.com)

To have luck growing daylilies, keep the following cultivation tips in mind.

Provide sun or partial shade. Daylilies grow the best in full sun, but they will tolerate part-shade conditions. If you do plant them in part-shade, choose an area of the garden that gets at least six hours of sun a day, preferably in the morning and early afternoon.

Keep in mind that some flower colors, such as various pinks and yellows, require sufficient sun for them to display their best colors. On the other hand, darker colored daylilies, such as red and purple, can become washed out in the sun, so they do best with some afternoon shade.

Plant in well-draining, fertile soil. Daylilies require a soil that drains well, yet retains sufficient water and is nutrient rich. To accomplish this, add generous amounts of compost to the soil when preparing it for planting. Raised beds are an excellent choice for creating good drainage and rich soil.

Fertilize. Add a starter fertilizer when planting daylilies and feed once in spring and again in midsummer with an organic fertilizer designed for flowering plants.

(Mary Ellen Rynes/FreeImages.com)

Water regularly. While daylilies grow in drought conditions, they do best when given regular water. In the absence of rainfall, give the plants a deep watering when the top 2 to 3 inches of soil has dried out. Avoid overhead watering, as this can cause spots on the blooms. To cut down on the need for watering and to improve the soil, mulch with 1 to 2 inches of shredded bark or leaf mold.

Groom regularly. Keep daylily plants tidy by removing spent blooms on a regular basis.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

With its white, lacy blooms and name, angelica conjures up the ethereal. But did you also know that this summer bloomer is responsible for martinis? A European herb that blooms profusely at this time of year, angelica is used in a variety of liquors, including gin and vermouth. Throughout history, its foliage has also been used to make herbal teas for medicinal purposes.

In the same family as carrots and parsley, Angelica features showy, umbrella-like flowers that make great landing pads for butterflies and bees. The leaves have a musky scent and sweet flavor. The giant roots that resemble large, pale carrots and the plant’s seeds are also edible. Foliage, roots and seeds of angelica can be used to make tea and as seasoning.

To have luck growing angelica in your summer garden, keep the following growing tips in mind.

Ensure adequate drainage. Angelica requires rich, fertile soil with good drainage to do well. Dig a 6- to 8-inch hole in the garden where you wish to plant angelica and fill with water. The water should drain within an hour. If it doesn’t drain, dig compost and pumice into the planting hole and re-test by filling with water again. Even if you do have good drainage, mix compost into the planting hole prior to planting to enrich the soil.

Provide sufficient growing space. Angelica grows 1 to 6 feet tall and will spread 2 to 4 feet wide, if given enough growing space.

Plant in part-shade. Place angelica in a part of the garden that receives some shade in the summer months. Good locations are those that get morning sun and afternoon shade. The plant can also thrive in an area with dappled sunlight throughout the day. The latter is a particularly good location for parts of the country that experience especially hot summers.

(Plant America Nursery)

Water regularly. Keep the soil surrounding angelica moist but not soggy. This is of particular importance during very hot weather. Angelica is not drought tolerant. If allowed to dry out, it will most likely not rebound. Keeping the planting area well weeded also helps to keep weeds from taking water from the plants.

Fertilize occasionally. Angelica benefits from a starter fertilizer when you plant and then another feeding three to four weeks later. Use an organic fertilizer designed for flowering plants.

Dry for tea or flower arrangements. If you wish to dry angelica to make tea leaves or to use the flowers in dried bouquet arrangements, cut flower stalks at the base of the plant during the morning or evening hours. Hang the stalks upside down in a cool, dry area of the home out of direct sunlight. Once the foliage is completely dry, use the flowers for dried arrangements, or store leaves for tea in a metal tin or glass container out of bright light.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

If you have gardening in your DNA, you know that problems like allergies aren’t going to stop you from communing with Mother Nature and enjoying her endless bounty. When a fragrant flower blooms, I’ll stick my nose right into it, despite the fact that I’m allergic and asthmatic. And when the garden calls me, I answer, despite a stuffy nose or itchy eyes.

I have found over the years as an avid gardener that there are steps you can take to make your garden enjoyment less problematic in the allergy department. Board-certified allergy and asthma specialist Dr. Neeta Ogden agrees.

“Gardening can definitely be enjoyed, despite allergies,” she says. “It’s very important that people continue the activities they love—even with allergies—as these activities bring us emotional happiness and can counter the negative stress of any medical condition. People just need to approach it wisely and with preparation.”

Here are tips for combatting outdoor allergens and enjoying the great outdoors with as few symptoms as possible.

Know when to garden. Avoid gardening early in the morning or at dusk when pollen counts are highest, advises Ogden. “Plants produce most of their pollen in the early morning and late evening, so the pollen output of all plants is highest between 5-10 am and again around dusk. That said, our allergy seasons have become so severe with all–day spiking pollen counts, that the distinction in time of day is becoming increasingly less relevant.”

Wear a hat, sunglasses, gloves and gardening shoes. Protecting your head, eyes, hands and feet limits exposure by creating a barrier between yourself and the pollen, says Ogden. “This diminishes your body’s exposure to pollen as you garden and its access to those specific parts of your body that can trigger symptoms.”

Wash or wipe away pollen after gardening. As soon as you finish gardening, remove microscopic pollen by taking off your clothes and either washing your hair and body well or wiping down with baby wipes and using a saline rinse on your eyes, advises Ogden.

“Wash your hair thoroughly with shampoo and use a cleanser on your face or gently cleanse your upper eyelids, eyelashes and eyebrows with baby wipes. To rinse your eyes, use a saline solution for contact lens wearers. Stand over a sink and tilt your head to the side and irrigate your eyes to rinse them out. If possible, look for a preservative-free saline rinse, so it’s less irritating.”

Be prepared and armed. “Taking allergy medications will help significantly,” says Ogden. “If you are a mild allergy sufferer, taking medication 60 to 90 minutes before gardening may be enough. More severe sufferers will need to be on a nasal spray and oral medication at least two weeks before the season begins. People with ocular allergies need to have their eye drops on hand and use them the day they garden or daily, if they have regular symptoms. For people who experience breathing difficulties, rescue inhalers should be on hand. Finally, for very severe sufferers, allergy shots have been successful at eliminating seasonal allergies completely.”

Stick to your allergy medication regimen. “It’s important to stick to a plan for the entire season – even if you are eventually feeling better,” says Ogden. “I see a lot of allergy patients who may eventually feel good or experience a lull in their symptoms and then forget to take their allergy medications when they go outside. This often leads to allergy symptoms rearing their ugly heads again, so it’s important that you make a conscious effort to be aware and not complacent about your allergies.”

Pay attention to indoor allergens. “Allergens lurk year-round in our homes,” says Ogden. “Seasonal allergy sufferers probably have, or at some point will develop, indoor allergies to things like mold and dust mites, so I advise all of my allergy patients to protect themselves indoors by regularly cleaning their homes, dusting with damp cloths and using allergen barrier bedding, mattress and pillow protectors, such as Allerease.”

See a board-certified allergist. “It could be very helpful for an allergic gardener to see a board-certified allergist to discover what specific trees, grasses, and weeds they are allergic to,” says Ogden. “This will help them modify their garden in such a way that they might be exposed to less allergenic species.” A helpful resource in this area is The Allergy Fighting Garden: Stop Asthma and Allergies with Smart Landscaping by Thomas Leo Ogren.

Monitor the pollen count. Most weather apps have daily pollen updates. Avoid long days gardening outside when the counts are especially high. Other good resources include the American College of Allergy Asthma and Immunology and the Allergy and Asthma Foundation of America.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Lawns. Depending on who you talk to, it seems we can’t live with them and we can’t live without them. If you live in an area where water can be scarce, like I do in Southern California, plenty of people insist you can do away with lawns.

There’s something about a swath of green that calms and cools you, though. Research even shows that turf does a great deal for our landscapes and earth, including cooling the environment, cleaning the air, improving and restoring the soil and preventing erosion. And it just feels good to go barefoot on the lawn.

As always, if you look to Mother Nature with a quandary, she’ll answer. That’s what some forward-thinking companies have done in recent years, like Outsidepride. They offer Miniclover (Trifolium repens) for lawns. This perennial clover—not to be confused with invasive White Dutch Clover—grows four inches tall, making it an ideal lawn alternative or addition to your current lawn. It is aggressive enough to fill in bare spots in the lawn, but not take over.

(Outsidepride)

In addition to producing a bright green, eye-candy lawn, Miniclover features a variety of other benefits, which include:

Nitrogen fixer. This means that Miniclover takes nitrogen from the air and “fixes” it in your soil. The result is less need for fertilizing.

Prevents weeds. Miniclover pushes out weeds as it grows via stolons (stems that grow horizontally along the ground).

Low maintenance. You can mow miniclover, which tolerates low mowing heights, or simply let it grow, as it doesn’t grow tall and unwieldy.

(Outsidepride)

Thrives in sun to partial shade. Unlike some turfgrass types that do poorly in part-shade, Miniclover does quite well.

Drought tolerant. Clover has longer roots than regular turfgrass, which means it can access more water. It will also tolerate wet conditions.

Stands up to foot traffic. Miniclover has superior wear tolerance and does well in compacted soil.

Makes an excellent groundcover. If you want a plant that will fill in bare spots in the landscape, Miniclover makes a great groundcover. Grow it on its own, or because of its adaptability and ability to grow in a wide variety of conditions, you can easily combine it with other groundcover plants, such as evergreen ginger, ivy, thyme, ajuga, lamium and creeping phlox.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Now that summer is in full swing, you might wonder if it’s too late to plant flowers. The good news is there’s still time to include summer and fall bloomers in your garden, like goldenrod. Botanically known as the Solidago species, this group of wildflowers is part of the daisy family.

Featuring brilliant bright yellow or golden flowers, goldenrod makes a showy statement in the garden from July through September. The plant is an ideal choice for borders, as well as meadows, native gardens and herb gardens.

Often found in natural settings, goldenrod is easy to grow and naturalizes in the garden, ensuring that you’ll be able to enjoy its blooms for many years to come. The eye-catching flowers are rich in nectar and attract bees, butterflies and many beneficial insects. Contrary to popular belief, goldenrod does not cause hay fever.

(Joe Zlomek/FreeImages.com)

To have luck growing goldenrod in your summer garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind.

Plant in full sun. For best blooming, locate goldenrod in an area of the garden that gets at least seven to eight hours of sun a day.

Provide good drainage. Goldenrod will grow in just about any soil type, providing that it drains well. If the area tends to remain soggy, amend with homemade or bagged compost and pumice.

Water to establish. Fairly drought tolerant, goldenrod doesn’t require much additional water once established. When you first plant the flower, however, it’s important to keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Once new growth appears, gradually taper off on watering.

Avoid fertilizing. As a wildflower, goldenrod prefers soils that aren’t nutrient rich, so avoid feeding this plant. Overly rich soil will lead to excessive foliar growth and weak stems, but little to no flowering.

Deadhead. Cutting off flower heads of goldenrod before they go to seed keeps the plant blooming well and looking tidy. This will also keep goldenrod from reseeding, if you want to keep new plants to a minimum. When deadheading, also prune to shape.

(Bill Kuhn/FreeImages.com)

Divide periodically. Dividing goldenrod every two to four years in late fall or early spring will create stronger, healthier plants. Dig up the plant’s rhizome (underground stem) and cut in half or thirds with a sharp knife. Replant each section.

Enjoy cut flower arrangements. Goldenrod makes a stunning flower show indoors. Cut and create loose, colorful arrangements.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

At this time of year when the summer heat finds you seeking refuge in the shadier, cooler parts of the garden, make the experience even more inviting by planting shade-loving ferns. These lacy beauties may look delicate, but they are actually quite sturdy and surprisingly easy to grow. Plant a few varieties, and you can enjoy a sea of various eye-catching greens in your garden.

With so many fern choices, it’s easy to find some for your garden. They make good border plants and do well growing around the base of trees. Ferns come in a wide variety of sizes, from small, moss-like plants, to tall tree ferns, such as Cinnamon fern (Osmundastrum cinnamomeum), which reaches 4 feet tall in the garden. The sword fern (Polystichum munitum) has fronds that can grow up to 5 feet in length.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Some ferns also grow well indoors, including Boston and maidenhair fern.

To have the best luck growing ferns in your outdoor or indoor garden, keep the following tips in mind.

Provide shady conditions. Most ferns require low light. Plant ferns under a tree or in the shade of a structure, such as under a patio cover. Indoors grow ferns in bright, indirect light.

(Brandon Keim/FreeImages.com)

Plant in rich, well-draining soil. Ferns grow the best in humus-rich, moist soil that drains well, such as what is found on the forest floor. Plant in an area of the garden that offers these conditions, or amend with generous amounts of homemade or bagged compost. Grow indoor ferns in a mix of three parts organic potting soil to one part worm compost in a container with drainage holes.

Keep moist. Water ferns regularly, so that the soil stays moist but not soggy. To retain soil moisture and keep fern roots cool, add a 2-inch layer of shredded bark to the area surrounding the plant. Water the ground thoroughly before applying the mulch and then water again once the mulch is applied, which will seal in moisture. Indoor ferns can also be mulched.

(John Evans/FreeImages.com)

Feed occasionally. Ferns aren’t heavy feeders but do respond well to a fertilizing once in spring and again in mid-summer. Apply an organic, well-balanced fertilizer.

Provide extra humidity indoors. Most ferns thrive in humidity, which can be in short supply indoors—especially if the home is air-conditioned or heated. Ferns not receiving sufficient humidity in the indoor garden will experience dry, brown leaf tips and edges. Increase humidity for ferns by grouping plants, which each transpire and release moisture into the air. Misting daily and placing ferns over humidity trays also helps raise the moisture level surrounding the plants.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Interested in growing a flower that looks dainty and elegant, yet is an easy-to-maintain repeat bloomer? Try growing lobelia in your summer garden. These carefree flowering plants remain covered with eye-catching blooms throughout the summer months, and even into the fall. Flower colors are brilliant, coming in stunning violet-blue, as well as yellow, white, red and pink.

Featuring a charming cascading habit, lobelia makes an excellent choice for window boxes, raised beds, hanging baskets and containers. It also does well as a ground cover. Even better, lobelia tends to be deer resistant, and the flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds.

For the best of luck growing lobelia, keep these cultivation tips in mind.

Plant in full sun to partial shade. Locate lobelia in an area that gets five or more hours of sunlight each day. The plant will bloom in partial shade. The best part-sun situation for lobelia is morning sun and afternoon shade.

Ensure good drainage. Like many plants, lobelia doesn’t do well in soggy soil. Prior to planting, check that the planting area drains well. If water drains slowly, amend the area with homemade or bagged compost and recheck the drainage. Avoid drainage issues by planting in containers with high-quality, organic potting soil.

Water regularly. Lobelia requires consistent soil moisture for prolific blooms. Water the plants regularly in the absence of rainfall, so that the soil is moist but not soggy. To help keep the soil surrounding lobelia consistently moist, mulch with a 2-inch layer of ground bark or leaf mold.

Prune occasionally. To have the most blooms, it’s necessary to pinch or prune lobelia back to keep it bushy, which will lead to continual flowering. Once flowers fade, prune them off and new buds will appear.

Fertilize monthly. Feed lobelia on a regular basis with an organic fertilizer designed for flowering plants. Apply monthly from spring through early fall.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as The American Gardener, Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

It’s Pollinator Week (June 20-26). Time to celebrate the little creatures that ensure our crops produce fruits and veggies. A good way to do this is to preserve endangered pollinators like monarchs, whose populations have dipped over the last two decades.

With their intricately designed orange and black wings, these lovely creatures light up the backyard as they flit about. But don’t let their delicate features fool you. These are actually sturdy winged insects that migrate an astounding 1,200 to 2,500 miles. This migration occurs in autumn when they fly to Mexico to overwinter and again in spring when they return north to reproduce. They are able to find their way thanks to an internal GPS of sorts that points them in the right direction.

You can help preserve monarchs and ensure that we continue to enjoy them in nature and our gardens by keeping a few tips in mind.

Plant Milkweed (Asclepias species) for Monarchs

Monarch adults only lay their eggs on milkweed (Asclepias), because their resulting caterpillars will only eat milkweed. Milkweed is easy to grow in the garden and comes in orange, pink, purple, yellow and white. Many species reseed readily in the garden, but this is a good thing, because the more milkweed, the more monarchs gracing your garden.

Besides being tasty to caterpillars, milkweed helps the insects ward off predators. It turns out that milkweeds contain glycoside toxins. These are harmless to the monarchs, but make the insects poisonous to predators in the caterpillar and adult butterfly stage.

Add Nectar Plants to the Mix

Adult monarch butterflies like to dine on a wide variety of nectar flowering plants. Add a wide range of blooming plants to your garden, including butterfly bush (Buddleia), Echinacea, Mexican flame vine, orange cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus) Mexican sunflower (Tithonia), sunflower, azalea, bee balm, echium, liatris, Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) Verbena bonariensis, some pentas, allium, goldenrod, rudbeckia, lantana and zinnia.

Protect Monarch Caterpillars

Familiarize yourself with the large caterpillars featuring black, yellow and white bands and black tentacles on their front and hind ends. These will undergo metamorphosis and become monarchs. This process starts when the adult monarch lays eggs on the milkweed, and the eggs hatch in about four days. The caterpillars then grow over a two-week period while feeding on the milkweed foliage. They then form a chrysalis, which is green with yellow spots. Two weeks later the adult monarch emerges from the chrysalis.

Monarch caterpillar (Rachel Kirk/freeimages.com)

Prevent killing monarch caterpillars and other beneficial insects in your garden by avoiding the use of pesticides. Instead of spraying, handpick harmful pests like Japanese beetles and tomato hornworms, and spray aphids with a steady stream of water. If you want monarchs in your garden, you’ll need to tolerate feeding damage on your milkweed foliage. Know that the more bites you see, the more butterflies you’ll be able to enjoy.

Congratulate Yourself

When you see monarchs flying around your garden, pat yourself on the back. Not only do you get a private show of these magnificent winged beauties, you can congratulate yourself for doing your part to protect our precious pollinators.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Also known as bellflower, campanula is an easy-to-grow flower that blooms throughout the summer months and into fall. The plant generally grows 1 to 3 feet high, and the flared, purple blossoms are easy to spot—even from a distance.

To have the best luck growing campanula, keep the following cultivation tips in mind.

Plant in full sun. Campanula requires bright light to flower well. Locate in an area that receives a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of sun each day.

Provide moist, well-drained soil. Bellflowers do best in soil that retains moisture yet drains quickly. Prior to planting, amend the soil with compost and pumice. After amending, check drainage by digging a 6- to 8-inch-deep hole and filling with water. It should drain completely within a couple of hours. If the area doesn’t drain quickly, amend the soil even more.

Water regularly. Keep the soil surrounding campanula moist but not soggy. Water when the top inch of soil dries out. Avoid letting the soil dry out completely between waterings.

Mulch. Conserve soil moisture in the campanula bed and prevent weeds by mulching with a 2- to 3-inch layer of shredded bark. Doing so keeps the soil moist, preventing the plants from getting overheated or drying out, which helps preserve the blooms.

Fertilize periodically. Campanula thrive if fed once in the early spring and again midsummer. Use an all-purpose, organic fertilizer for blooming plants, such as a 5-10-10 or a 10-20-20. Water the soil well after feeding.

Prune often. To promote repeat blooms, prune off spent flowers with pruners or by pinching as soon as flowers fade.

Campanula (Gerla Brakkee/Freeimages.com)

Divide and transplant. Every two to four years, when campanula plantings become crowded, dig up and divide the flowers and replant. This is best done in early spring.

Watch out for pests and disease. Snails and slugs will quickly devour campanula. Remove and destroy the pests when you see them. Avoid overhead watering, as the excess moisture on the foliage can attract these invaders. The disease powdery mildew can also be a problem for campanula. The condition causes a white coating on leaves and stems, as well as wilting and flower and foliage loss. Prevent mildew by planting in an area of the garden that receives good air good air circulation.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Light up your summer garden and keep the bees, butterflies and hummingbirds happy by planting bee balm. This aptly named perennial comes in pink, red and white flower colors. The plant blooms throughout the warm season, offering its nectar up to winged visitors all summer long.

Depending on the variety, bee balm grows 2 to 4 feet tall. Some varieties thrive in wet soil, while others do well in average garden soil.

Also known as horsemint, wild bergamot and Oswego tea, bee balm makes a refreshing minty beverage. Add the fresh flowers to fruit or green salads or use as a garnish on cakes. Dried leaves and flowers can also be used in potpourri and sachets.

To have luck growing bee balm in your summer garden, keep the following growing tips in mind.

Plant in full sun. Bee balm flowers the most profusely if the plant gets a lot of bright light. To preserve flowers in the south, southwest or west, plant in an area that gets some afternoon shade. Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart.

Amend the soil. Prior to planting, add compost and a well-balanced organic fertilizer designed for blooming plants to the soil. Bee balm requires soil conditions on the acidic side, with a pH of 6-6.7, so if you live in an area with alkaline soil, such as the west, amend with soil sulfur to lower the pH.

Water regularly. Bee balm will tolerate drought, but does best if you keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Water when the top one to two inches of soil has dried out. For varieties that thrive in wet soil, make sure to keep the plant constantly moist. Conserve moisture and discourage weeds by mulching with a 2-inch layer of shredded bark.

A bumblebee on a bee balm blossom. (Julia Freeman-Woolpert/FreeImages.com)

Prune plants two or three times during the growing season to keep them growing bushy and full. In the late fall, cut bee balm back to within 5 to 6 inches from the ground. New growth will appear the following spring. Every three to four years, dig up the plants and divide them in the late winter or early spring.

Harvest and Storage. Cut bee balm flowers in the morning after the dew has dried and before the sun heats them up. The blooms last several days in water, or dry the flowers by hanging them upside down in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight. Pick flowers for drying before they open.

Watch for powdery mildew. To avoid this fungal disease, plant in an area that receives good air circulation and don’t overhead water. Help prevent the condition from continuing from year to year by cleaning up the planting bed in the fall. Remove any fallen foliage, stems or old mulch.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Wild backyard birds live demanding lives. During the warm months of the year, they perform a variety of tasks critical to their survival, all while recovering from the fatigue and stress of their long migration north.

“Birds are constantly on the move,” says Elaine Cole, president and owner of Cole’s Wild Bird Products Co. “ A lot of energy is spent defending a territory, selecting a mate, and then hatching and raising the chicks before it’s time to migrate again. Just like for people, convenient food can be a life saver for birds. Less energy spent hunting means more energy for raising healthy babies.”

Bluebird (Cole’s Wild Bird Products)

What and how you feed the birds in your garden will determine if they stay to dine and thrive. But before your feathered friends show up in your yard, make sure your “accommodations are inviting,” says Cole. “Check that all baths and birdhouses are clean and in good repair. A quick rinsing with a mild bleach and warm water mixture or detergent gets rid of dirt, grime and mold.”

(Cole’s Wild Bird Products)

Also pay special attention to the menu in your yard. “By serving wild birds their favorite foods throughout the summer, you boost and build their stamina and reserves for the long winter ahead,” says Cole, who offers these feeding tips.

What to Feed Wild Birds

“Serve birds quick, easy food with the most nutrient/energy impact, such as suet kibbles, dried mealworms, raw peanuts, sunflower meats and fruit.”

Traditionally used for winter feeding, suet has come a long way and is not just for winter anymore, says Cole. “No-melt suet formulas make it the perfect protein for warm weather feeding, which is ideal for adult birds that bring their babies this nutritious food source as an easy, high energy meal.”

Mealworms are another nutritious bird food. “High in protein, fat and potassium, mealworms help birds maintain energy,” says Cole. “They’re favorites for species like bluebirds, flickers, woodpeckers, nuthatches, siskins and chickadees, and are a perfect food source for newborn nestlings. Handling live mealworms is probably not a welcome bird feeding experience, even for the most committed bird enthusiasts, which makes freeze-dried mealworms ideal. They have all of the nutritional benefits of fresh ones and are much easier to store and serve.”

For seed-loving birds, serve up a blend that contains nuts, sunflower meats and dried fruits like apple, blueberry and cherry.

Combine suet, mealworms and fruit, nuts and seeds, and you’ll have a complete mix that attracts a wide variety of seed-eating and non-seed eating birds like warblers, bluebirds, kinglets, flickers and robins, which are all birds you don’t typically see at a feeder, says Cole.

Kalos Photography (Cole’s Wild Bird Products)

Further ensure that the birds dine at your house by growing plants that attract them. Good choices include honeysuckle, sunflower, Virginia creeper, oak and dogwood trees, cardinal flower and Echinacea.

Consider Your Bird Feeder Location

If you aren’t getting a lot of birds to your backyard and are serving up quality food, the bird feeder location is most likely the culprit, says Cole. “If a bird doesn’t feel safe eating at your feeder, then it simply won’t eat there. Don’t put feeders in wide open spaces. Birds prefer feeders to be near a bush or tree line so they have a quick escape if a hawk or another predator swoops in.”

Attaching a tray to the bottom of your tubular feeder also increases the variety of birds that can come to your feeder by providing a spot for larger birds (cardinal, robins, etc.) to perch and eat. The perches on standard tubular feeders are not big enough to allow the larger birds to feed.

Once you’ve set your birds up, “have fun and enjoy the view,” says Cole. “Watching birds lowers your blood pressure and helps keep all of life’s pressures in perspective.”

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

When it comes to growing butterfly magnet wildflowers, the cream of the crop, so to speak, is the coneflower. Botanically known as Echinacea, this easy-to-grow perennial lights up the garden from late spring into early fall, all the while attracting a wide assortment of delicate winged beauties.

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) is one of the most common, although you’ll also find pink and even yellow coneflowers. The plants have daisy-like flower petals that surround a prickly cone-shaped seed head that butterflies and bees use as a landing pad when foraging. The plant is a perennial that goes dormant in the cold months and comes back in the spring.

This attractive wildflower grows up to 4 feet tall and 2 feet wide. It is heat and drought tolerant, making it the perfect choice for just about any garden situation.

Coneflower Medicinal Uses

Originally discovered by the Northern Native Americans, Echinacea has been used for centuries as a medicinal plant that is said to boost the immune system and relieve cold and flu symptoms. Alternative health products using Echinacea are common. You’ll find Echinacea in a variety of forms, including pills, ointments, tinctures and extracts.

To have luck growing coneflower in your spring garden, keep the following cultivation tips in mind.

Locate in a full- to part-sun location with good air circulation. The sunnier the planting area, the more flowers the plant will produce and the more butterfly visitors you’ll have in your garden. (Butterflies require warm conditions in order to fly.)

Plant in well-draining soil. Though coneflowers are easy to grow and will survive in a wide variety of soils, they are wildflowers and do best in a well-draining soil. If the planting area contains clay soil, amend with compost and perlite or pumice prior to planting.

(Julie Bawden-Davis)

Water regularly. Echinacea grows best when given consistent moisture, but they will tolerate drought, as they have deep taproots that allow them to store water when things are dry. Water when the top inch of soil has dried out.

Feed occasionally. Like many wildflowers, Echinacea aren’t heavy feeders. Fertilize once in the spring when the plant comes out of dormancy and again midsummer with an all-purpose, organic fertilizer, such as a 10-15-15.

Cut and enjoy flowers. Coneflowers make a striking addition to any floral arrangement. They last a long time in water, or you can preserve them indefinitely by drying. Hang the flowers upside down by the stem in a cool, dry location until they are completely moisture-free.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

The aptly named blackeyed Susan is an easy-to-grow perennial that lights up the garden for months at a time. The daisy-like flowers feature dark purple or black centers that make a striking contrast with the bright yellow petals. Blackeyed Susan is a member of the sunflower family, which it also resembles.

Botanically known as Rudbeckia hirta, these carefree plants are versatile, growing in borders, fields and even in containers. They make long-lasting cut flowers and attract a wide variety of wildlife, including butterflies, bees and hummingbirds. Their blooming period is long, generally lasting from late May through October.

Now is the perfect time to plant blackeyed Susan. Keep the following growing tips in mind.

Plant in full sun. Blackeyed Susan grows best in a full sun location, although it will flower in partial sun. The plant does best in a rich, well-draining soil but can tolerate less than ideal soil conditions. The richer the soil the more likely the plant will re-seed and produce new plants.

Provide sufficient growing space. When determining the ideal spacing for blackeyed Susan, consider that the plant grows 1 to 3 feet tall or more and spreads 12 to 18 inches.

Water regularly. Blackeyed Susan can tolerate some dry conditions but does best if you keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Water when the top two inches of soil has dried out.

Prune often. Deadhead faded flowers, which will initiate re-blooming. This also prevents the plant from reseeding, if this is something you want to discourage.

(Freeimages.com/Mike Thorn)

Divide periodically. Every three to four years, invigorate the planting bed by digging up and dividing the plants in the early spring. Cut each plant into two or three sections and replant.

Fertilize occasionally. Blackeyed Susans aren’t heavy feeders. Apply an organic, well-balanced fertilizer once in late spring and again in midsummer.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

Last summer, I had the opportunity to attend Burpee Fest 2015. While the fun and educational event featured touring Burpee’s historic Fordhook Farm and meeting other garden communicators, one of the absolute highlights of the trip was sampling a dish made with their all new ‘Meatball’ eggplant.

It turns out that ‘Meatball’ isn’t just an enticing name, but actually lives up to its reputation. The unique eggplant allows you to make vegetarian dishes that really do taste like real meat.

“ ‘Meatball’ is so named, because it’s a medium, globe- or ball-shaped fruit that possesses quintessentially ‘meaty’ flesh,” says George Ball, who heads Pennsylvania-based W. Atlee Burpee Company. “You can use this eggplant to prepare any dish that involves meat, as well as actual meatballs. It makes the best hamburger in the world. Not a day goes by that I don’t dream about my first eggplant ‘Meatball’ hamburger, which we have affectionately named The Burpee Burger.”

To Ball, the flavor of ‘Meatball’ is superior to real meat. “I don’t have fat filling my mouth, and there is nothing ‘dead’ about it,” he says. “In the hands of merely a good cook (nothing fancy needed) ‘Meatball’ can produce a veritable steak house platter.”

‘Meatball’ Eggplant (Burpee)

All New Eggplant

‘Meatball’ overcomes three common complaints about eggplant, which are seeds with a bitter aftertaste, excess water in the fruit and flesh that browns quickly when exposed to air. Burpee has searched for an eggplant variety without these attributes that could serve as a viable meat substitute for 20 years.

“The qualities that raise ‘Meatball’ to the highest level I have ever known of eggplants are the extraordinary succulence and creaminess of its flesh, resulting in a heavy, meaty fruit, and its sweetness, which is due to its relative seedless-ness,” says Ball, who has tested every eggplant imaginable.

‘Meatball’ was discovered in one of Burpee’s partner’s fields. “We tested it at Fordhook Farm for the past three years,” says Ball. “It’s so unlike a normal Turkish eggplant that one of our gardeners tried eating it raw and found that it has a faintly sweet taste. This is entirely different from a normal eggplant, which is not appetizing at all uncooked.”

In addition to its meaty flavor, Ball was thrilled to finally find an eggplant that would appeal to gardeners. “We’ve been trying to increase the gardening of eggplants by American vegetable gardeners for many years,” he says. “Personally, I launched ‘Purple Blush,’ as well as ‘Purple Rain’ back in the early 90s. I made a ceviche with ‘Purple Blush’ that stumped Martha Stewart. She never figured out what it was she was eating when I prepared it during her first visit to my farm. However, 25 years later, people still have a hard time preparing as well as eating eggplants in general, that the market for eggplant seeds and plants has been very small, until ‘Meatball.’”

Since its introduction this season, ‘Meatball’ has become quite popular. Burpee offers seeds for the eggplant, as well as plants. For short-season climates and first-time eggplant growers, plants are your best bet this year. You’ll have fully ripe ‘Meatball’ eggplants two months after planting transplants.

‘Meatball’ Meatballs (Burpee)

Eggplant Planting Advice

Eggplants are among the easiest of veggie plants to grow. Once you receive your plants, wait three to four days for them to acclimate to outdoor conditions. Then transplant in the ground, a raised bed or a container in a full-sun, warm location. If growing more than one eggplant, space them 24 to 36 inches apart. Provide support and encourage airflow by staking or caging the plant.

Keep eggplant watered with 1 to 2 inches of water during the growing season. Avoid overwatering. Feed with a well-balanced, organic fertilizer when flowers first appear and again when fruiting occurs.

When cooking with ‘Meatball’ eggplant, use spices, including garlic salt, and sautéed onions, advises Ball. “This variety has none of the problems of normal eggplant, so it’s not necessary to soak the flesh or extract water with salting,” he says. “This is a completely new eggplant.”

Here is Burpee’s recipe for the ‘Meatball’ burger. The website has additional recipes for using your eggplant harvest.

The Burpee Burger

Ingredients

2 large eggs

1 cup unseasoned breadcrumbs

1/2 cup loosely packed Italian parsley

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium-sized Burpee ‘Meatball’ eggplants

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

1. Mix first two ingredients in a bowl; set aside.
2. Mince parsley leaves and garlic clove. Add the olive oil and combine with egg and breadcrumb mixture.
3. Peel ‘Meatball’ eggplants and grate them with the largest holes of a hand grater on a paper towel to absorb excess moisture. Add the eggplant to the mixture. Last, season with salt and pepper. You will have a soft mixture. If it is too watery, add a tablespoon of all-purpose flour.
4. Form the mixture into patties and cook in a heavy pan in a small amount of cooking oil. (Due to the soft texture of the mixture, you will not be able to cook this veggie burger on a grill.)
5. Cook some thick slices of white onion at the same time, in the same pan.
6. Serve with cooked sliced onion, fresh-sliced tomato and freshly-picked lettuce leaves.

Serves 4-5.

‘Meatball’ Burger (Burpee)

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.

If you want an eye-catching flowering plant in your garden that blooms for months at a time, plant phlox. This perky, long-lived perennial reliably lights up the summer garden. The plant’s flowers come in a wide range of colors, including white, red, pink, purple and coral. Many phlox are also fragrant, with the scent being strongest at night.

Phlox grows 2 to 4 feet tall and doesn’t require staking. The flowers attract butterflies and hummingbirds. When soil and location conditions are ideal, phlox will re-seed. To have luck growing phlox in your garden, keep the following growing tips in mind.

(Palmer W. Cook/Freeimages.com)

Provide full sun to part shade. Phlox do best with at least a half day of sun—with morning sun being best. Position them in a part of the garden where they receive bright light and good air circulation.

Plant in fertile soil. Phlox requires a rich soil that retains moisture yet drains well. Prior to planting, amend with homemade or bagged compost, including vermicompost. This will feed the soil and create airspace, which all plants require for healthy growth.

Water regularly. Keep phlox plants moist but not soggy. Water every two or three days in the absence of rainfall. Avoid splashing water on foliage, as this can lead to fungal problems. If you will be doing overhead watering, do so early in the day so the leaves have a chance to dry off.

Fertilize often. Phlox do well when given regular doses of organic fertilizer designed for flowering plants, such as a 10-20-20. Feed the plants monthly during the growing season. When planting, use a starter fertilizer for flowering plants.

(Drouu/Freeimages.com)

Trim periodically. After flowering, cut the phlox back by one-third, which will promote quicker re-flowering. If the plants are looking bedraggled in late winter, cut them back at that time as well.

Propagate. Phlox can be divided in autumn or early spring. Dig the plants from the soil, making sure to preserve the roots. Use a sharp knife to cut through the center of each plant and through the roots. Replant each half. Repeat this process every two to three years, which will lead to healthier plants.

Julie Bawden-Davis is a garden writer and master gardener, who since 1985 has written for publications such as Organic Gardening, The American Gardener, Wildflower, Better Homes and Gardens and The Los Angeles Times. She is the author of seven books, including Reader’s Digest Flower Gardening, Fairy Gardening, The Strawberry Story Series, and Indoor Gardening the Organic Way, and is the founder of HealthyHouseplants.com.