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Season Is Right for Cilantro

Plant the Herb in Fall and Winter in Southern California: Flavor Mexican and Asian Dishes with Leaves and Seeds

If you want to grow big, leafy bunches of cilantro and you live in Orange County, don’t listen to conventional planting instructions.

Garden author Rosalind Creasy said most of the information on cilantro is written for gardeners living in the Northeast and Midwest.

“You will often read that the best time to plant cilantro is in the spring, but that’s not true for California,” said Creasy, author of “The Edible Herb Garden” (Periplus, 1999, $15) and “The Edible Asian Garden” (Periplus, 2000, $15). “It does best here when planted October through February.”

Fall and winter planting is ideal for cilantro because it is day-length sensitive, meaning that when the days get longer, it will go to seed.


“Plant in the fall and you’ll have big, healthy plants throughout winter and into spring,” said Creasy, who lives in Los Altos. “Plant in March or April and you won’t get much cilantro before it goes to seed.”

Growing Cilantro in Southern California

Geri Cibellis of Villa Park is a big fan of cilantro. She sows seed in October and enjoys the herb during fall, winter, and spring.

“Cilantro has such a delightful flavor,” said Cibellis, the past president of the Orange County Organic Gardening Club. “I not only use it in salsa, but it’s a great flavor enhancer for many dishes. It’s even good on boiled potatoes with a little butter or olive oil.”

Cilantro: The Herb of Many Dishes

Common in many Mexican and Asian dishes, cilantro is originally from Asia. The seeds of this annual herb are called coriander, but its fresh leaves are usually called cilantro or Chinese parsley.

  • Flavor: Cilantro leaves have a distinctive, sharp flavor, while the seeds are more mild.
  • Culinary Uses: The seeds are considered a major spice in India and the Middle East, used in sausage and various bean dishes and stews. They are also key ingredients in curry powders and chutneys.
  • Thai Cuisine: In Thai cooking, the entire cilantro plant is used, including the roots.

Tips for Growing Cilantro

A member of the same family as parsley and dill, cilantro has delicate, fern-like foliage and flat clusters of pinkish-white flowers that attract beneficial insects. For the best success growing cilantro, keep the following tips in mind:

  • Full Sun: Plant cilantro in full sun, either in the ground or containers.
  • Start from Seed: Cilantro doesn’t like to be transplanted, so it’s best to plant from seed. Look for slow-bolt or long-season varieties to get a longer harvest.
  • Soil: Provide rich, organic soil. Amend with homemade or bagged compost before planting.
  • Watering: Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. Water regularly to maintain moisture until the plants emerge.
  • Spacing: Separate tiny plants before transplanting them to prevent crowding, which can cause the plants to die.

Harvesting and Maintaining Cilantro

  • Harvest Like Lettuce: Pick cilantro from the outside, leaving the center leaves to continue growing.
  • Save Seed: After cilantro flowers and goes to seed, you can use the dried seed as coriander or save it for future planting. Cibellis stores dried flower heads in a paper bag, shakes them to release the seeds, and then stores them in a cool, dry place.
  • Fertilizing: Cilantro typically doesn’t need additional fertilizer unless its leaves yellow. If necessary, use a chemical fertilizer, as organic forms of nitrogen don’t work well in cold soil.

Holidays With Roots

The Choice of Flowers, Foliage and Fruit Can Reflect Personal Heritage as Well as Tradition

The holiday season means many things to many people. Living in a melting pot as we do, we can look around and find myriad holiday traditions. Many of these celebrations involve flowers, foliage, or fruit from the garden.

Hanukkah Traditions

When it comes to decorating for Hanukkah, Carol Goldmark focuses on her collection of menorahs. Goldmark, a resident of Buena Park, places a candelabrum on the dining room table and adds flowers, leaves, fresh pomegranates, and citrus.

“Much emphasis is placed on preparing the holiday table because Hanukkah centers on gathering the family and retelling the story of why we celebrate the holiday,” Goldmark said.

Although gifts are given during Hanukkah, they are not a true part of the holiday, according to Rabbi Lawrence Goldmark, who has been at Temple Beth Ohr in La Mirada for 22 years.


“Hanukkah actually involves religious freedom,” he said.

The Story Behind Hanukkah

The holiday celebrates an event from around 165 BC in what is now Israel. At that time, a non-Jewish ruler attempted to convert the Jews. However, a small group fought the conversion, and after three years, the ruler gave up. During that period, the Jewish temple was desecrated, but it was later rebuilt and rededicated. The term “Hanukkah” means “rededicate” in Hebrew. The eight-day celebration is reflected in the eight branches of the menorah, with one additional branch for the servant candle.

As the Goldmarks light each candle during Hanukkah, they bring in a new flower from the garden.

Celebrating with a Southwestern Touch

When Paul Apodaca, a Navajo, decided to celebrate the holidays 15 years ago, he realized that a European-style Christmas tree just wouldn’t feel right for his heritage.

“I wanted to put presents under something that would make me feel inclusive of the season but not be too foreign to who I am and my roots,” said Apodaca, who teaches courses on American Indians and culture at Chapman University in Orange and is a consultant to the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of the American Indian.

After some thought, Apodaca came up with the idea of creating a Southwestern-style Christmas. He purchased a synthetic cactus that resembles a saguaro, which he decorates with chile-pepper lights, cornhusks, and hand-woven folk dolls from the Southwest, Mexico, and South America.

“Although my cactus seemed like the natural choice for someone with my background, I’ve been surprised to not find anyone else with the same idea,” Apodaca said. “For me, it makes perfect sense.”

Preserving Mexican Heritage

Christmas is also a time for Connie Ortiz to teach her grandchildren about their Mexican heritage.

“It’s important to me that my grandchildren learn about their cultural roots,” said Ortiz, who was born in Mexico. “I try to preserve my culture in my holiday decorations by including significant plants, fruit, and vegetables from the garden.”

At the center of many of Ortiz’s decorations is the poinsettia, a flower native to Mexico. Each December, she buys one or two dozen to decorate both inside and outside her home in Orange.

Ortiz, a master gardener who teaches nutrition for the University of California Cooperative Extension, also creates wreaths for holiday decorations using dried foods important in her culture, including cornhusks, limes, and chiles.

As a final touch, she fills her home with festive bowls of in-season fruit from the garden, such as cherimoyas, guavas, and papayas.

Living Trees Appeal to Owner Taste and Space

Living Trees Appeal to Owner Taste and Space

December 23, 2000
| JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS

Living Christmas trees vary in price, looks, and growth habits. Though options may be limited this late in the season, some nurseries may still have a selection. Be sure to check availability before visiting a nursery.

Recommended Trees for This Region

The following trees tend to do well in this region:

  • Aleppo Pine: A moderate grower, reaching 40 to 50 feet at maturity. Features soft branches and needles. Must be sheared to maintain a dense shape. Prune when most new growth tips have appeared, removing two-thirds of the new growth. Best in a container for a couple of years, after which it must be planted in the ground.
  • Blue Point Juniper: A pyramidal-shaped tree with dense, blue-green foliage. Requires no shearing. Best kept in partial sun in very hot areas. Grows up to 8 feet tall, making it an excellent long-term container plant.
  • Italian Stone Pine: Starts as a stout, bushy tree, becoming umbrella-shaped as it matures. Reaches 40 to 80 feet at full growth. Soft branches and needles. Needs shearing to maintain shape. Prune when new growth tips appear, removing two-thirds of the growth. Lasts longer in containers than other varieties like Leylandii cypress and Monterey pine.

  • Leylandii Cypress: A tall, evergreen tree with a pyramidal habit. Soft, fern-like foliage that does not shed like other pines. Grows quickly, reaching 15 to 20 feet in five years. Best in containers for a few years before being planted in the ground.
  • Monterey Pine: A very fast-growing tree that can reach 80 feet. Features deep green foliage with soft branches and needles. Requires shearing to maintain a dense shape. Prune when new growth tips appear. Best in containers for a couple of years before being planted in the ground.

Nurturing Living Trees Adds a Growing Tradition

Tips for Maintaining a Living Christmas Tree

A living Christmas tree is not only environmentally friendly and fragrant, but its greatest benefit is that it can be recycled year after year.

“Keep a tree happy, and you can use it indoors for several Christmases,” said Chris Greenwood, horticulturist for Armstrong Garden Centers.

Here are some tips from Chris Greenwood and Ted Mayeda, owner of M & M Nursery in Orange, for ensuring your tree’s health and longevity:

Key Tips for Maintaining a Living Christmas Tree

  • Time Indoors: The most common cause of failure is keeping the tree indoors for too long. Greenwood suggests leaving it indoors no more than five to seven days, with 10 days as the maximum.

Proper Placement for Tree Health

“Place it in a bright location, preferably within 5 to 8 feet of an east-, south-, or west-facing window that has no outdoor obstructions,” Mayeda advised.

It’s also essential to keep your tree away from forced-air heating vents, as this will dry it out quickly. If possible, turn off the forced air in the room where the tree is located.

To prevent drying out and damage, spray the tree with an anti-transpirant like Cloudcover, which helps to reduce water loss through the needles.

Indoor Watering

  • Water the tree evenly, but avoid overwatering. Greenwood recommends sprinkling ice cubes on the soil surface to slowly melt and seep into the root ball.
  • Always place a saucer under the tree to catch moisture leakage and never let the pot sit in water to avoid root rot. You can use a turkey baster to remove excess water.

Lights on the Tree

  • If using lights, opt for mini-lights, which don’t generate enough heat to damage the needles.
  • Ensure the lights are wired in such a way that they don’t rest directly on the needles.

Note: Never flock a living Christmas tree.

After-Holiday Care

  • Once the festivities end, move the tree outdoors to a full-sun location as soon as possible.
  • If you plan to keep the tree in a container, transplant it to a larger pot before spring. Use a well-draining potting mix and ensure it has room to grow.
  • Feed the tree with a low-nitrogen, water-soluble fertilizer during spring and summer. Be careful not to overfeed, as this can cause fast, unwieldy growth.

“Once a living Christmas tree becomes too large, it makes a great addition to your landscape or can be donated to a public park or school,” Greenwood added.

Tree Maintenance Throughout the Year

  • Keep the tree clean by washing the foliage and hosing off any dead needles that accumulate around the trunk.
  • Prune the tree in June to maintain its shape and do further shaping in the fall to encourage lush foliage when the tree is brought indoors for the holidays.

Keep containerized trees well-watered, especially during the hot summer months.

In-Ground Planting

If you want your tree to become a permanent part of the landscape, choose a sunny spot with plenty of space, as many pine trees can grow very large.

For more information, contact:

Armstrong Garden Centers: (800) 557-5268 or www.armstronggarden.com

M & M Nursery: (714) 538-8042 or www.mmnursery.com

Growing Holly Makes Holidays Jolly

The Symbol of the Holidays: Thriving Holly Plants in Southern California

We all recognize holly as a classic symbol of the holidays. What many people don’t know is that it’s easy to grow. Choose the right type of holly, Ilex, and you can enjoy festive berries in your garden every December.

Why Cornuta Holly Thrives in Southern California

The cornuta species of holly thrives in Southern California, said Wendy Proud, horticulturist and product manager for Monrovia nursery, a wholesale nursery that supplies holly to local nurseries.

“Cornuta holly likes our long, hot summers, which cause them to produce a lot of berries,” she said. “This species is also a good choice because it doesn’t need a pollinizer to produce fruit like many other hollies.”

Not only do their festive berries and decorative leaves make long-lasting decorations, hollies are also a good background plant the rest of the year, Proud added.

“Holly is a resilient, versatile, drought-resistant plant that can grow just about anywhere,” she said. “It makes a great barrier or security plant, as the foliage is usually prickly.”

Holly Berries and Their Benefits

Holly berries are also attractive to birds, said Steve Hutton, president of Conard-Pyle Co., a West Grove, Pa., wholesale nursery that specializes in holly.

“Contrary to popular opinion, no part of holly is poisonous,” Hutton said. “It is a perfectly safe plant to have in the garden.”

Popular Holly Varieties

Conard-Pyle Co. grows a variety of holly plants, including:

  • “Golden Girl” – An eye-catching yellow-berried form. Requires a male variety for pollination.
  • Berri-Magic Holly – A combination of two hollies ensuring cross-pollination. Produces red fruit and reaches 6-8 feet high and wide.
  • “Dazzler” – Known for its bright-red berries and glossy green foliage.
  • “Willowleaf” – A larger variety, reaching 15 feet or higher, with blood-red berries.
  • I. cornuta “Berries Jubilee” – Grows like a hedge, reaching 4 to 6 feet tall and wide, with cardinal-red berries.

Growing Tips for Holly

  • Plant in full sun.
  • Provide good drainage. Hollies thrive in well-drained soil. Amend heavy clay with perlite or pumice and plant holly on a slight mound.
  • Container Planting: Use an azalea and camellia mix for container planting.
  • Moisture: Keep hollies moist but not soggy. Once established (in about two years), they become drought-tolerant.
  • Fertilizing: Use organic fertilizers such as 10-6-4 or an acid-based liquid fertilizer designed for camellias and azaleas.
  • Watch for pests: Scale can be a problem in mild climates. If you see any, scrape them off gently or consult a nursery professional for treatment.

When you find a small infestation of scale, scrape it off with a finger or a knife, trying not to damage the stem. Or if you prefer, consult a certified nursery professional regarding the proper spray to use.

Additional Holly Care Tips

  • Flowering and Fruiting: Hollies generally flower in springtime, then fruit, but the fruit doesn’t ripen until late fall. Leaves and berries can be cut for holiday decorating, though young plants shouldn’t be stripped.
  • Pruning: Hollies tend to become open and loose in form if not trimmed. Prune and shape in the spring before the weather gets hot.

For more information, contact:

Monrovia: (888) 752-6848

Conard-Pyle Co.: (800) 458-6559

December Planting Guide

Although your thoughts are probably on the holidays this month, there are a number of plants that can be added to your landscape, many of which will add a festive flair. If it rains, allow the ground to dry out for a few days before planting. The soil should be moist but never soggy.

Flowers

  • Alyssum
  • Bachelor’s button
  • Begonia
  • Bromeliad
  • Calendula
  • California poppy
  • Candytuft
  • Carnation
  • Christmas cactus
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English primrose
  • Foxglove
  • Fuchsia
  • Geranium
  • Iceland poppy
  • Impatiens
  • Flowering kale
  • Kalanchoe
  • Larkspur
  • Lupine
  • Nasturtium
  • Nemesia
  • Pansy
  • Poinsettia
  • Salvia
  • Schizanthus
  • Snapdragon
  • Society garlic
  • Stock
  • Sweet pea
  • Sweet violet
  • Viola
  • Wildflowers

Vegetables & Herbs

  • Artichoke
  • Arugula
  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Cilantro
  • Collards
  • Cress
  • Dill
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Horseradish
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mint
  • Mustard greens
  • Onion
  • Parsley
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Strawberry
  • Swiss chard
  • Turnip

Trees and Shrubs

  • Australian fuchsia
  • Australian tea tree
  • Azalea
  • Blue hibiscus
  • Camellia (Sasanqua variety)
  • Cape mallow
  • Flowering maple
  • Holly
  • Westringia

Bulbs and Tubers

  • Allium
  • Anemone
  • Amaryllis
  • Calla lily
  • Crocus (prechilled for eight weeks)
  • Daffodil
  • Dutch iris
  • Freesia
  • Gladiolus
  • Grape hyacinth
  • Hyacinth (prechilled for eight weeks)
  • Lily
  • Muscari
  • Narcissus
  • Ranunculus
  • Tulip (prechilled for eight weeks)

Hybrids: No Longer Just Novelty

From ‘Big Boy’ to Garden Favorites: The Rise of Hybrid Plants

What Are Hybrids?

Mention hybrids to a group of gardeners and you’re likely to get several reactions. Some shun hybrids, others embrace them, and some gardeners aren’t sure what they are.

To clarify:

  • Hybrids (F-1 generation) are the result of a cross between two distinct parent plants of the same type.
  • Open-pollinated (OP) plants are naturally pollinated and reproduce the same variety generation after generation.

For example, breeders might cross two tomato varieties to combine early maturity with great flavor. These traits are uniform only in the first generation of seed.

Hybrid vs. Open-Pollinated

We still grow many OP plants, but hybrids have become popular due to their improved characteristics. Some popular hybrid examples include:

  • ‘Early Girl’ and ‘Celebrity’ tomatoes
  • Many types of eggplants, peppers, and melons
  • Some woody ornamentals and annuals

Vegetables like beans, peas, and lettuce are usually not hybridized, but hybrids dominate other categories.

The First Hybrids

According to Jim Waltrip of Seminis Garden:

  • One of the first hybrids made available to gardeners was the tomato ‘Big Boy’ in the 1940s, developed by Burpee.
  • Some hybridization (e.g., cucumber, broccoli) is bee-assisted, but tomato and pepper hybrids are made by hand.
  • Hand-pollination is labor-intensive, making it initially impractical for commercial growers.

Benefits of Hybrids

Despite initial skepticism, hybrids quickly gained favor for their advantages:

  • Superior disease resistance
  • Uniform fruit and vegetable production
  • Reliable yields and growth habits

Today, nearly all fresh-market tomatoes and 90% of processing tomatoes are hybrids.

Home Gardeners Embrace Hybrids

Renee Shepherd of Renee’s Garden Seeds notes that hybridization brought many wonderful varieties to gardeners, including:

  • Long-blooming hybrid flowers
  • Pollen-free, multibranching sunflowers

Expanding the Possibilities

Wende Proud from Monrovia Nursery highlights hybridization’s ability to overcome limitations of native species:

  • Enhanced color range and compact growth
  • Adaptability to new climates
  • Disease resistance and aesthetic improvements

Monrovia’s Role

Monrovia markets many hybrids exclusively and searches for natural mutations, or “sports,” on existing plants that can lead to new varieties. For example:

  • A branch on a plant with variegated leaves might be propagated to become a new hybrid.

Don’t Count Out Open-Pollinated Plants

Experts still value OP varieties:

  • They promote diversity in the garden.
  • They’re preferable in soils free of disease.

Shepherd suggests using both hybrids and OP plants for a well-rounded garden experience.

Preserving the Past While Innovating the Future

Despite the dominance of hybrids, the genetic material of old OP varieties is safe:

“At Seminis, we maintain all of the old OP seeds in our germ plasm bank,” says Waltrip. “Diversity is key to creating great hybrids.”

Good Gardeners Don’t Just Mow and Go

Landscaping: What to Look for in a Full-Service Gardener

In the last five years, Victoria Michaels has had 11 different gardeners work on her Anaheim yard.

“My neighbors laugh every time they see a new landscaping truck in front of my house. It’s almost embarrassing how many gardeners I’ve had, but I want the yard to look good,” said Michaels, who believes she has finally found a gardener who gives her garden the attention it requires.

Some aren’t as lucky. With the majority of services only mowing and edging lawns, there aren’t many full-service gardeners available, says landscape designer and certified arborist Julie Hunt of Julie Hunt Landscape Solutions in Dana Point.

She reluctantly started offering maintenance. Initially focused on installations, Hunt added maintenance after clients complained their gardens were declining post-installation.

“We finally gave in and now provide maintenance service, which has turned out to be very gratifying,” said Hunt, who says high-quality gardeners watch for potential problems and enjoy what they do.

“It’s fun to watch their garden grow and mature,” she said.

What Full-Service Gardeners Do

  • Mulching
  • Weeding
  • Pruning, trimming, and dead-heading
  • General cleanup and care
  • Fertilizing and pest control
  • Irrigation, drainage, and lighting maintenance
  • Soil preparation and planting

“They provide that extra care that the homeowner would give the garden if he or she had the time,” said Steve Kawaratani of Landscapes by Laguna Nursery in Laguna Beach.

Why Finding a Good Gardener is Challenging

“If you find one who provides your plants with that extra TLC, such as washing leaves, dead-heading and checking for pests and disease, hold onto that person,” said Patti Ferner of Pacific Wind Landscape.

Homeowner Success Story

Homeowner Victoria Michaels found success with Nick Sutcliffe of English Gardens in Orange.

“I knew he was the gardener for me because he immediately went to my yucca and started pulling off dead leaves,” she said. “His employees get down on their knees and clean out my flower beds. That’s the kind of detailed work that makes my garden look really good.”

Cost of Full-Service Gardening

  • Hourly rate: $35 to $55
  • Monthly cost: $150 to $350 or more, depending on yard size and care level

Some customers pay for a consultation and do the work themselves or delegate it to their existing gardener.

Hunt provides detailed consultations and training for gardeners to properly maintain landscapes.

“Most gardeners want to do a good job. They’re just not equipped with the information to do it,” Hunt said. “If you can train the person you already have about the importance of things like mulch and proper watering, you’ll end up with a better landscape.”

Long-Term Gardening Partnerships

Helen Magruder of Corona del Mar has worked with her gardener for 15 years. Through trial and error, they developed a strong relationship built on mutual respect and trust.

“Angel [Gonzales] is dependable and loyal. He listens to suggestions and brings his own input,” she said. “He handles things like irrigation and drainage that I couldn’t manage on my own.”

Expert Tips for Finding and Working with Gardeners

  • Be cautious: Don’t allow anyone to prune, plant, or apply pest control unless you’re confident they know what they’re doing.
  • Be specific: When assigning new tasks, be clear about what you want. Visuals help.
  • Expect limits: Some lawn-care providers focus solely on mowing and edging. Consider hiring a separate maintenance service for specialized care.

Recommended Garden Maintenance Services

  • Jungle Julie Landscape Solutions – (949) 830-9555 – junglejulie.com
  • English Gardens – (714) 870-0260
  • Landscapes by Laguna Nursery – (949) 497-2438
  • Pacific Wind Landscape – (949) 689-8355

October Planting Guide

October Gardening in Orange County

October is one of the best gardening months in Orange County. Our weather is not yet chilly, but by now the sweltering days of summer have usually passed.

It’s a great time to plant just about anything, including many trees, shrubs, and perennials, which will set down a strong root system over the winter. Now is also the time to plant cool season vegetables. The following is a sampling of what can be planted this month:

Flowers

  • Agapanthus
  • Alyssum
  • Aster
  • Bachelor’s Button
  • Begonia
  • Bromeliad
  • Calendula
  • California Poppy
  • Canna
  • Campanula
  • Canterbury Bell
  • Carnation
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English Primrose
  • Felicia
  • Foxglove
  • Geranium
  • Iceland Poppy
  • Impatiens
  • Japanese Anemone
  • Lilac
  • Lantana
  • Nasturtium
  • Pansy
  • Penstemon
  • Portulaca
  • Rudbeckia
  • Scabiosa
  • Schizanthus
  • Shasta Daisy
  • Snapdragon
  • Stock
  • Succulent
  • Sweet Pea
  • Viola
  • Sweet Violet
  • Sweet William

Vegetables

  • Artichoke
  • Arugula
  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Collards
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Horseradish
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard Greens
  • Onion
  • Oriental Greens
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Shallot
  • Spinach
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnip

Herbs

  • Bay Laurel
  • Chamomile
  • Chervil
  • Chive
  • Cilantro
  • Comfrey
  • Dill
  • Fennel
  • Lavender
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Rosemary
  • Sage
  • Thyme

Bulbs and Tubers

  • Anemone
  • Babiana
  • Bearded Iris
  • Freesia
  • Homeria
  • Lily
  • Ranunculus
  • Sparaxis
  • Tritonia
  • Watsonia

Plant Peril: Soil Too Acid or Alkaline

How Soil pH Impacts Plant Health

When a plant is struggling, the problem often lies beneath the surface—in the soil. Specifically, the soil’s pH, which measures its acidity or alkalinity, plays a crucial role in plant health. Unfortunately, this is often one of the last things gardeners check—when it should be the first.

Why Soil pH Matters

According to Bob Denman, co-owner of Denman & Co., “Many plant health problems are not caused by disease, insects, or nutritional deficiencies, but rather by soil that is too acidic or too alkaline.”

Soil pH affects nutrient availability. Research plant physiologist Darren Haver explains: “If the pH is too low or too high, many nutrients cannot be released to the plants.”

  • Phosphorus is only available near neutral pH. Without it, plants cannot perform key functions like photosynthesis or grow healthy roots and flowers.
  • Iron deficiency (chlorosis), especially in citrus, can occur in alkaline soil even if iron is present.
  • Other nutrients such as calcium, magnesium, and nitrogen can also become unavailable due to incorrect pH.
  • Microorganisms vital to soil health may decline with extreme pH levels.
  • Toxins like aluminum become more potent and absorbable when pH is off.

Joe Sweazy of Environmental Test Systems adds that “burn” on plants could be caused by pH imbalance—not just watering or fertilizing issues.

Understanding the pH Scale

  • The pH scale ranges from 0 (very acidic) to 14 (very alkaline). A reading of 7 is neutral.
  • Most plants prefer pH levels between 6.0 and 6.5.
  • Some plants, like azaleas, thrive in acidic soil, while others, like certain California natives, need alkaline conditions.
  • Each whole number represents a tenfold change in acidity or alkalinity. For example, pH 6 is ten times more acidic than pH 7.

As Denman states: “A full point change can mean the difference between life or death for certain plants.”

Soil pH in Orange County and the Western U.S.

In Orange County and much of the western U.S., soils are generally alkaline due to low rainfall, which is needed to flush out naturally occurring alkaline salts.

In contrast, regions with more rainfall, like the Pacific Northwest and Southeast, tend to have more acidic soils.

How to Test Your Soil’s pH

  • Use a pH test kit (good for occasional use; $6–$30 depending on features).
  • Invest in a pH meter for long-term monitoring (accurate models cost $50–$70).
  • Take 3–4 samples from 2–6 inches deep for accuracy.
  • Mix soil with neutral-pH water (distilled is best) to avoid skewed results.
  • Note that pH varies across your yard and throughout the year, especially near concrete or where fertilizers are used.

Adjusting Soil pH

Lowering Alkaline pH

  • Use soil sulfur for best results—it’s fast, long-lasting, and pure.
  • General rule: 1 lb per 10×10 ft area lowers pH by one point.
  • Clay or organic-rich soils resist pH change; sandy soils adjust more easily.
  • Re-test soil 2 weeks, 1 month, and 2 months after treatment.
  • Apply sulfur cautiously during hot weather—start with 1/4 dose weekly. In cool seasons, apply full dose.

Raising Acidic pH

  • Use finely ground agricultural lime following package instructions.

Always test the pH of any fertilizer or amendment before use.

For nutrient deficiencies (e.g., calcium, potassium, magnesium), consult a certified nursery professional.

Planting with pH in Mind

Group plants with similar pH needs together. For example, don’t plant acid-loving orchids next to alkalinity-loving alyssum.

Resources

  • Denman & Co., 401 W. Chapman, Orange. (714) 639-8106
  • Accugrow Test Kits: (800) 589-5551 or Accugrow.com
  • Soil and Plant Laboratory, 1594 N. Main St., Orange. (714) 282-8777

What Can You Grow?

Plants that Prefer Alkaline Soil:

  • Alyssum
  • Asparagus
  • Baby’s breath
  • Bean
  • Beet
  • Cabbage
  • Carnation
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Cosmos
  • Cucumber
  • Coral bells
  • Dianthus
  • Iris
  • Leek
  • Melons
  • Mint
  • Nasturtium
  • Okra
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Peach
  • Peonies
  • Phlox
  • Rhubarb
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Squash
  • Sweet pea
  • Swiss chard
  • Walnut

Plants that Prefer Acidic Soil:

  • Azalea
  • Basil
  • Blackberry
  • Blueberry
  • Butterfly-weed
  • Camellia
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Clematis
  • Fir
  • Flax
  • Gardenia
  • Heather
  • Hydrangea
  • Lupine
  • Magnolia
  • Marigold
  • Oak
  • Orchid
  • Pine
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Raspberry
  • Rhododendron
  • Rose
  • Strawberry
  • Viola
  • Yew

Unjudicial Branch

Mature Trees Are Beautiful, But Can Become a Sore Subject Between Neighbors

Randall Stamen, a Riverside attorney and certified arborist, often receives calls from tree owners upset that neighbors have unexpectedly pruned or removed trees or roots crossing property lines.

“I can’t imagine treating your neighbor that way. It absolutely astounds me, but it happens all the time,” said Stamen. “People will come home from work and their neighbors have removed the trees or cut the foliage or roots so drastically that the plant becomes unstable.”

Legal Landmark: Booska vs. Patel (1994)

Before 1994, property owners could cut foliage or roots that encroached on their land. But the court case Booska vs. Patel changed that precedent.

  • The court ruled that pruning must be reasonable and must not damage the neighbor’s tree.
  • The defendant in the case was found liable because his actions made the neighbor’s tree unsafe, leading to its removal.
  • It is now considered a duty to act reasonably, even on your own property.

The “Gray Area” of Reasonableness

“This court case put things in a gray area,” said Stamen. “Reasonableness varies person to person. Now, alternative options like root barriers and corrective pruning must be considered.”

Expert Opinions: Address Tree Encroachment Peacefully

Alden Kelley, a Fullerton consulting arborist and expert witness, notes:

“We just live too close together, and people acquire trees too big for their space, which inevitably encroach into a neighbor’s yard.”

Randall Stamen’s advice:

  • Compromise with your neighbor before making any cuts.
  • Never prune before discussing the issue to avoid escalation and potential litigation.

Henry Canales, Irvine’s tree maintenance supervisor, shares:

“Improper pruning can kill a tree or cause it to fall in windstorms. Talk calmly with your neighbor instead of reacting emotionally.”

Lois Fox of Merit Property Management emphasizes communication:

“Your neighbor may not even know their tree is causing problems. A simple conversation can solve the issue quickly.”

Consider a Professional for Tree Maintenance

  • Root pruning and foliage trimming should be handled by certified professionals.
  • Incorrect pruning can destabilize the tree or cause long-term damage.
  • Offer to split the cost to make the idea more acceptable to your neighbor.

Stamen also authored “California Arboriculture Law” (1997, $50) and can be reached at (909) 787-9788.

Getting Control, Above and Below Ground

If your tree’s roots are damaging a neighbor’s fence or the branches are blocking their view, consider these alternatives:

  • Thinning and pruning foliage: Follow proper guidelines to avoid harming the tree.
  • Root pruning: Must be done at a safe distance based on trunk diameter.
  • Installing root barriers: Effective before planting or after pruning to prevent future issues.

Good Trees for Small Areas

Choose smaller trees or tree-shrubs to avoid future conflicts:

  • Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki)
  • Western redbud (Cercis occidentalis)
  • Saucer magnolia (Magnolia soulangiana) – 8 ft from property line
  • Redleaf photinia (Photinia fraseri)
  • Willow pittosporum (Pittosporum phillyraeoides)
  • Gold medallion tree (Cassia leptophylla)
  • Bronze loquat (Eriobotrya deflexa)
  • Coral gum (Eucalyptus torquata)
  • Sweetshade (Hymenosporum flavum)
  • Citrus trees – Oranges, lemons, etc.

Trees to Avoid in Small Yards

These species tend to grow too large and have invasive roots or branches:

  • Any Ficus (except edible fig)
  • Camphor tree (Cinnamomum camphora)
  • Coral tree (Erythrina caffra)
  • Blue gum (Eucalyptus globulus)
  • Sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua)
  • Shamel ash (Fraxinus uhdei)
  • Italian stone pine (Pinus pinea)
  • California sycamore (Platanus racemosa)
  • Weeping willow (Salix babylonica)
  • Brazilian pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius)

Sources: DeepRoot; Alden Kelley, consulting arborist; Ortho’s All About Trees

Approaching Your Neighbor

How to Handle Tree Encroachment with Your Neighbor

Experts agree that the best way to deal with tree encroachment is to begin by talking to your neighbor about the offending tree or trees.

“It’s important to remember that your goal is not only to alleviate the encroachment problem, but to remain on good terms with your neighbor,” said Riverside arborist and attorney Randall Stamen.

Steps to Take When Addressing the Issue

Randall Stamen suggests the following approach:

  • Be friendly: Don’t immediately send a certified letter. “You’re just escalating things,” said Stamen. Choose a calm moment and explain the issue without blaming. Offer potential solutions.
  • Offer to share costs: Propose splitting the pruning costs, or if you’re capable, offer to do the pruning yourself—with your neighbor present.
  • Send a neighborly letter: If a face-to-face discussion doesn’t resolve the issue, write a polite letter reiterating the problem and suggesting solutions. Send it via regular mail.
  • Send a certified letter: If the initial letter goes unanswered, follow up with a more formal but courteous certified letter.
  • Mention HOA rules: If you’re part of a homeowners association and the encroachment violates CC&Rs or landscaping standards, reference these rules in your letter.
  • Contact your HOA or an attorney: If there’s still no response, contact your HOA or have a lawyer write on your behalf.
  • Consider mediation: Suggest involving a neutral third-party mediator to reach a solution.
  • Legal action: As a last resort, hire a lawyer and pursue a lawsuit.

Nursery Is Oasis Where the Plants Are for Sale

Mystic Gardens in San Juan Capistrano: A Nursery Experience

When I heard about Mystic Gardens in San Juan Capistrano and read the slogan: “Not just a nursery… It’s an experience,” I was skeptical. A well-stocked nursery, maybe, but an experience?

Putting their claims to the test, my daughter, Sabrina, and I visited the two-acre property on Ortega Highway.

As we strolled meandering pathways past colorful, exotic plants and sat in rustic furniture while listening to the sound of burbling fountains, I had to admit — we were having an experience.

We weren’t alone.

On her first visit to Mystic Gardens, Robin Wilder of Laguna Niguel expected a quick shopping trip. “Things didn’t work out that way,” she said. “I took my four children and it was like a field trip. We stayed a long time.”

Dave McAllister, owner of McAllister Topsoil and Compost in San Juan Capistrano, said his weekly trips to the independent nursery make him think of Hawaii. “It’s much more than a nursery—almost like an arboretum.”

Other Noteworthy Orange County Nurseries

Orange County has other independent nurseries that offer unusual plants, high-garden accessories, and expert service. These include:

  • Roger’s Gardens, Corona del Mar
  • Heard’s Country Gardens, Westminster
  • Laguna Hills Nursery, Lake Forest
  • M & M Nursery, Orange
  • Huntington Garden Center, Huntington Beach
  • Upland Nursery, Orange
  • Brita’s Old Town Gardens, Seal Beach

The Vision Behind Mystic Gardens

Thomas McLaughlin, co-owner of McLaughlin Landscape Construction in San Clemente, and his wife, Lori, purchased Mystic Gardens two years ago. They transformed the space by adding stone paths, ponds, stream beds, and waterfalls.

“We made it a destination,” said Thomas McLaughlin. “People enjoy strolling through here.”

Creating an inviting nursery with full-grown plants on display to help customers visualize their gardens is essential for success, said general manager Ken McCausland, who worked at the location before it was revamped.

Mystic Gardens, 27401 Ortega Highway, San Juan Capistrano. Phone: (949) 488-0074.

July Planting Guide

What to Plant Now: Vegetables, Herbs, Flowers, and More

Go deep: Giving plants a quick drink occasionally is OK during the hot days ahead, but it’s no substitute for deep irrigation. Also, make sure to harvest regularly. If vegetables aren’t picked often, plants may go to seed and stop producing.

Vegetables and Herbs

  • Arugula
  • Basil
  • Bean
  • Beet
  • Borage
  • Cantaloupe
  • Carrot
  • Catnip
  • Corn
  • Cucumber
  • Dill
  • Eggplant
  • Fennel
  • Feverfew
  • Lavender
  • Lemon balm
  • Lemon verbena
  • Melon
  • Mint
  • New Zealand spinach
  • Okra
  • Onion
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Pepper
  • Pumpkin
  • Radish
  • Rosemary
  • Squash
  • Summer savory
  • Sweet marjoram
  • Swiss chard
  • Thyme
  • Tomatillo
  • Tomato
  • Winter squash

Flowers

  • Ageratum
  • Alyssum
  • Armeria
  • Aster
  • Bacopa
  • Begonia
  • Blue flax
  • Cactus
  • Campanula
  • Canna
  • Celosia
  • Coleus
  • Coreopsis
  • Cosmos
  • Dahlia
  • Dianthus
  • Echinacea
  • Euphorbia
  • Gaillardia
  • Gazania
  • Geranium
  • Ginger
  • Heliotrope
  • Impatiens
  • Lavender
  • Lisianthus
  • Lobelia
  • Love-in-a-puff
  • Love-in-a-mist
  • Mallow
  • Marigold
  • Million bells
  • Nasturtium
  • Nicotiana
  • Penstemon
  • Petunia
  • Portulaca
  • Salvia
  • Scaevola
  • Snow-in-Summer
  • Society garlic
  • Statice
  • Succulents
  • Sunflower
  • Verbena
  • Vinca
  • Yarrow
  • Zinnia

Trees, Shrubs, and Vines

  • Banana
  • Bougainvillea
  • Brugmansia
  • Buddleia
  • Chinese lantern
  • Hibiscus
  • Mandevilla
  • Moonflower
  • Morning glory
  • Palm
  • Papaya
  • Passion vine
  • Plumeria
  • Rose

Sweet and Sour Smell of Success

Lemon Verbena: Fragrant, Flavorful, and Flourishing in Southern California

* Lemon verbena is a fragrant herb used to flavor food and flourishes in this climate and soil.
July 01, 2000
| JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

It’s not necessary to grow a lemon tree to enjoy fresh lemon fragrance or flavor.

“The narrow, pointy leaves of the herb lemon verbena (Aloysia triphylla) have a distinct lemon scent and flavor that’s as good as a lemon,” says Norm Yoder, co-owner of Friday House Gardens in Orange.

Lemon verbena is a popular herb, agrees Vincent Hakes, owner of Huntington Garden Center in Huntington Beach. “The plant makes a nice 3- to 6-foot shrub that releases a wonderful lemon scent when you brush up against it. It’s also popular for medicinal purposes,” he says.

Uses of lemon verbena include:

  • Tea that soothes stomach ailments
  • Main ingredient in Vervein tea, popular in France
  • Flavoring fruit desserts, ice cream, and poultry dishes
  • Adding fragrance to potpourri

Growing Lemon Verbena

A native of South America, lemon verbena thrives in Southern California’s climate, whether planted in the ground or in containers.

Now is a great time to plant one. To grow it successfully, follow these tips:

  • Understand its growth cycle: Lemon verbena is deciduous and will lose leaves in cooler months but regrows in spring.
  • Planting: Choose full sun or bright filtered light. In the ground, it can grow 3 to 6 feet tall and 3 feet wide if not pruned.
  • Drainage: Prefers good drainage and alkaline soil. For heavy clay soil, amend with 30%-50% organic matter with humic acid.
  • Containers: Use high-quality, well-draining potting mix rich in perlite or pumice.
  • Watering: Needs regular watering when young. Once established, it is drought-tolerant but responds well to consistent moisture.
  • Fertilizing: Fertilize once or twice a year with an organic all-purpose plant food to promote lush growth.
  • Pruning: Prune regularly to prevent legginess and increase leaf production. Remove flowers to encourage more foliage. Cut the whole plant back in fall after leaf drop to maintain compact shape.

Where to Find Lemon Verbena

  • Friday House Gardens: (714) 953-1421
  • Huntington Garden Center: (714) 963-6522

Within Reach of the Beach

Orange County’s Aliso Viejo Offers Affordable Homes a Bike Ride from the Ocean

Friendly Neighborhoods and Lasting Connections

Leslie Chartier and her husband, Brian, have no plans to leave their Aliso Viejo home anytime soon. Residents like them value the strong sense of community.

“We have great neighbors, and that means a lot,” said Chartier, who moved from Irvine in 1995. “Recently, I got a flat tire coming home from the grocery store. A neighbor picked up my son and groceries while I waited for assistance. In my old neighborhood, I didn’t know anyone well enough to ask for help.”

The Chartiers, both teachers, purchased their 1,700-square-foot, four-bedroom, 2.5-bath home for $200,000.

“When we first moved in, the rest of the neighbors were moving in at the same time,” Chartier said. “We’ve all grown close watching the area grow.”

Natural Beauty and Smart Planning

Located between Laguna Beach and Laguna Hills, Aliso Viejo is surrounded by the 3,200-acre Aliso/Wood Canyons Regional Park, part of the Laguna Coast Wilderness Park.

Tom Steinhoff of Summit Real Estate Group highlights why the area is attractive to young families:

  • Greenbelt surroundings
  • Proximity to the beach
  • Affordable housing options
  • Ample amenities, including a movie theater and ice rink

The Capistrano Unified School District serves the area, which includes three elementary schools, a middle school, and a high school.

Affordable Housing Options

Despite Mello-Roos taxes and HOA fees, Aliso Viejo remains more budget-friendly than nearby beach cities.

Example buyer experiences:

  • Renato Giordano – Bought a 1,800-square-foot, three-bedroom home for $175,000 in 1998. Pleased with affordability and home design.
  • Typical home prices – Around $275,000 for a 2,000-square-foot, 3–4 bedroom home.

High-End vs. Entry-Level Market

  • High-end: 3,500-square-foot, five-bedroom homes with views – $550,000
  • Entry-level: 1,200–1,300 sq ft condos/townhomes – $130,000 to $160,000
  • Apartments: 1–2 bedroom units – $900 to $1,300/month

A Straight Shot to the Beach

Mark Mednick, a high school teacher, was drawn by affordability and the greenbelt location. He bought a 1,400-square-foot, three-bedroom, three-bath condo for $180,000 in 1991.

“It’s a straight shot through the canyon to the beach on my bike,” he said.

The family enjoys views of trees and an airy feel from their home.

“There wasn’t a whole lot here when I moved in, but now we’ve got supermarkets and restaurants. It’s not really necessary to leave town.”

Designed for Self-Containment

According to Chuck Shoemaker, Orange County’s chief of site planning, the original vision for Aliso Viejo was a self-sufficient community with housing, retail, and employment opportunities.

“There are plenty of retail stores and restaurants,” said Shoemaker. “Employment opportunities are growing as businesses move in.”

Now home to 38,000 people, residents are pushing for cityhood, which is under review by the Local Agency Formation Commission (LAFCO).

“Most people would agree incorporation is possible,” said Daniel Schwarz of LAFCO. “Home values have risen, and the economy is strong enough to fund a municipal government.”

Community Spirit Continues to Grow

Steve Dickey moved from Irvine in 1990 and became active in community development.

He serves as:

  • President of the Aliso Viejo Community Association
  • Chairman of the Aliso Viejo Advisory Planning Committee

“Today Aliso Viejo is really coming into its own,” Dickey said. He has owned two homes in the area — a townhome bought for $125,000 in 1990, and a single-family home purchased for $250,000 in 1997.

“We’ve got typical Orange County problems, like traffic in some areas, but overall, it’s a great place to live.”

Julie Bawden-Davis is an Orange County freelance writer.

Earn a Macadamic Degree in Planting Nut Trees

Orange County gardeners who grow macadamia trees will reap a tasty crop and beautify their yards.

April 01, 2000
| JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Mention macadamia nuts and most people think of Hawaii, which is something Tom Cooper wants to stop. Instead, the Fallbrook macadamia nut farmer would like you to think of your backyard.

“Many people don’t realize that in Southern California, we can grow macadamia nuts that are even better than those grown in Hawaii,” says the owner of Cooper’s Nut House, where they sell macadamia nut trees and farm, process, and sell nuts.

Macadamia nuts aren’t even from Hawaii. Native to Australia, they were introduced to California and Hawaii in 1888.

“Five of those original trees are still thriving and producing in various areas of Southern California,” says Cooper.

Though we grow different varieties than they do in Hawaii, macadamia nuts grown here are extremely tasty, and the trees are easy to grow, says Eunice Messner of Anaheim Hills, a member of the California Rare Fruit Growers and the Orange County Rare Fruit Growers and a contributing editor to The Fruit Gardener Magazine.

Macadamia nut trees are also attractive landscape additions, says Messner. “They flower this time of year with pretty, long, pink, tassel-like blooms that stay on the tree for about a month, after which the nuts form.”

Macadamia Tree Growth and Planting Tips

Macadamia trees generally grow to about 25 to 30 feet tall and 15 to 20 feet wide. They bloom now and will bear next winter through early spring. They can be planted at any time of year, although spring and fall, when the weather is mild, are the best planting times.

Varieties of Macadamia Trees

There are several varieties available for home growing. Here are some of the popular ones:

  • ‘Beaumont’: A favorite variety for home gardens that can bloom multiple times a year. The ‘Beaumont’ nuts sometimes split on the tree, leading to a bitter flavor. Remove the brown part to improve taste.
  • ‘Cate’: Known for its thinner shell and short blooming period.
  • ‘Cannon’: Has a medium-thick shell and large nut.
  • ‘Carmel’: Features an even larger nut.
  • ‘James’: Known for its thick shell and good flavor.

Growing Tips for Macadamia Trees

To ensure the best results for your macadamia tree, follow these essential tips:

  • Choose a Sunny, Well-Drained Site: Ensure the soil drains well and, if necessary, improve heavy clay soil by adding pumice or gypsum.
  • Provide Constant Moisture: Macadamia trees need a lot of water, about six gallons per day. Keep the top 6-8 inches of soil moist, especially in sandy soils.
  • Mulch Regularly: Use mulch to retain moisture and provide nutrients. Tree droppings can be ground up and used as mulch.
  • Fertilizing: Macadamia trees are not heavy feeders. Cooper uses mulch for nutrients, while Snider applies balanced fertilizer twice a year. Messner uses chicken compost and a seaweed spray in spring.
  • Pruning: Once established, pruning is minimal. Train young trees by pruning to form a single trunk with limbs radiating to prevent wind damage. Prune after harvesting.

Harvesting and Storing Macadamia Nuts

Some macadamia trees drop their nuts when they are ready, while others, like the ‘Beaumont,’ must be stripped. After harvesting, remove the husk to reveal the brown shell, inside of which is the nut meat. To store:

  • Dry the nuts while still in the shell. Air-dry them for 10 days to two weeks in the shade, then place them in an oven at 110 to 115 degrees for about two days.
  • Once dry, remove the shell using a macadamia nut cracker, as the shell is very hard.

Dealing with Pests

Macadamia trees are rarely bothered by pests, but rodents such as rats, squirrels, and mice may be attracted to the fruit. Contact county vector control for advice on baiting or trapping.

Macadamia Resources

  • Cooper’s Nut House: Carries trees, nuts, and nut crackers. They also dry and crack nuts for a fee. 1378 Willow Glen Road, Fallbrook. Open daily, 8 a.m.-6 p.m. (760) 728-6407 or www.coopersnuthouse.com
  • The California Macadamia Society: Offers resources for growing and using macadamia nuts. Annual dues are $17.50. P.O. Box 1298, Fallbrook 92088. (760) 728-8081 or users.aol.com/TeeterJS/cms
  • The Orange County Rare Fruit Growers: Meets the third Thursday of each month at 7:30 p.m. at the Orange County Fairgrounds, Costa Mesa.


Don’t Shrink Away From Proper Care for African Violets

Caring for African Violets: A Guide to Thriving Blooms

African violets are popular for their vibrant blooms, and with proper care, they can continue to reflower year after year.
When my daughter, Sabrina, asked me to buy her an African violet, I was skeptical. The purple blooms were stunning, but would it ever flower again? To our delight, it has continued to reflower, each bloom cycle lovelier and fuller than the one before.

Now I know why African violets (Saintpaulias) are considered one of the most popular flowering houseplants. Give them the right conditions and you can enjoy their pert, happy blooms throughout the year.

Discovered in eastern Africa in 1892 by Baron von Saint Paul, a German working in Tanzania, African violets have been widely hybridized over the years. Today you’ll find them in a variety of colors, forms, and leaf textures.

African Violet Varieties
There are four size ranges for African violets: Standard (1-foot or more across), Semi-miniatures (6-8 inches), Miniatures (4-6 inches), and Trailing forms.

Watering

It’s important not to over-water your African violet. Between waterings, let the surface of the soil dry out. Always water from the bottom to prevent water from touching the leaves, which can cause them to spot and rot. Use room-temperature or slightly warmer water. After watering, drain any excess water in the saucer within an hour.

Some African violet growers use a wick irrigation system, which uses a wick to draw water from a reservoir into the pot without wetting the foliage. This system can be purchased or created with acrylic yarn or nylon cord.

Lighting

African violets prefer bright, indirect light. Provide 8 to 12 hours of sunlight or artificial light each day. Make sure sunlight isn’t too bright, or it may burn the leaves. Protect the plant with sheer curtains or adjustable blinds if placed on a south or west-facing windowsill. Regularly rotate the plant to ensure even light exposure.

Light Exposure for African Violets
They also need at least 8 hours of darkness daily, so avoid placing them in areas with constant light.

Fertilizing

Keep African violets blooming by adding a quarter-strength solution of fertilizer every time you water, or add it to the water reservoir if using a wick system. Use an all-purpose, well-balanced fertilizer such as a 20-20-20 mix.

Temperature & Humidity

African violets thrive at temperatures between 65 and 75°F. They also prefer humid conditions, but without water touching the leaves. To raise humidity, place the pot in a dish filled with moist gravel, pebbles, or marbles, ensuring the pot doesn’t contact the water.

When to Repot

African violets need to be pot-bound to bloom. The pot size should be one-third the diameter of the plant. If the plant outgrows the pot, repot it into a container that’s slightly larger. Use a mix of peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite for soil, or try coconut fiber (coir) as an alternative.

Repotting Tips

When repotting, be gentle with the roots and avoid pulling them. Fill the new pot halfway with the soil mix, then plant the violet, ensuring the soil doesn’t bury the leaves. Water lightly and wait a week before watering again.

Watch for Pests

Mealybugs can be problematic for African violets. Use 70% isopropyl alcohol for quick and effective pest control. Always inspect plants before purchasing to ensure they’re healthy and free of pests.

For more information, consider joining the Tustana African Violet Society, or visit the African Violet Society of America website for expert advice and resources.

Resources

  • Regal Flowers, 658 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 532-2518
  • The Tustana African Violet Society, meets at Zion Christian Center, Orange, third Tuesday of every month at 7 p.m., (714) 779-6562
  • African Violet Society of America, Beaumont, TX, (409) 839-4725, www.avsa.org
  • Lyndon Lyon Greenhouses, Dolgeville, NY, (315) 429-8291
African Violet

Certain Petals Can Test Your Mettle

Tropical Orchids Should Be Handled With Care, but Their Exotic Blooms Are Worth It

Tropical orchids look appealing, but these beautiful flowers have a reputation for being fussy.
While this is true for some varieties, phalaenopsis–also known as moth orchids–are easy to grow indoors. “Phalaenopsis are considered the easiest houseplant orchid,” says Tony Glinskas, chairman of the 20th Annual Fascination of Orchids International Show & Sale, which runs through Sunday at South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa.

Though they come from the jungles of the Philippines, moth orchids thrive in our conditions, Glinskas said. “Phalaenopsis like temperatures above 62 degrees and below 85 degrees,” he adds. “Being from under the jungle canopy, they are also accustomed to bright shade, but no direct sunlight, so most indoor lighting situations work well for them.”

Phalaenopsis tend to bloom from spring through fall, but if the conditions are right, they can flower almost year-round. The flowers last from two to three months, making them a much better gift than a bouquet, said Paul Brecht, owner of Paul Brecht Orchid Gardens in Costa Mesa.

Moth Orchids: The Perfect Gift

“While a bouquet will end up in the trash in 10 days, an orchid will give you months of bloom, and when it’s done, you still have a plant that can rebloom,” Brecht said.

Moth orchids generally cost $20 to $50 per plant, depending on the quality, size, and type.

These eye-catching plants have long sprays of 2- to 6-inch-wide flowers that come in a variety of colors, including:

  • White
  • Pink
  • Red
  • Yellow
  • Green
  • Hybrids with spotting or candy striping

Some hybrids have fringe on the flowers, Glinskas said. The leaves are thick, broad, and tend to be sparse, with the flower spikes shooting up above the leaves.

Phalaenopsis received the common name “moth orchid” because the flowers sitting along the flower spike look like moths in flight.

Tips for Growing Moth Orchids Indoors

1. Choose a Good Home

Moth orchids thrive in bright locations that don’t receive any direct sun. Be especially careful to keep them away from hot midday sun.

  • They like air circulation but should be kept away from cold or hot drafts, as sudden temperature changes can cause buds to dry up, brown, and fall off.
  • Good places include bright bathrooms, north and east window sills, and curtained windows that provide filtered light.

You can tell if a plant is receiving the right amount of light by its leaf color. Dark green leaves indicate inadequate light, while light yellow leaves signify too much light. The ideal color is yellowish-green leaves.

2. Water Correctly

Phalaenopsis are accustomed to rain and moisture. The surface below the bark should be kept moist. Watering will depend on the weather. In hot and dry conditions, they may need water every 2-3 days, but during rainy, moist conditions, they might need water only every two weeks.

Water only in the morning so the plant has time to dry before night, and never leave a phalaenopsis in standing water.

3. Provide Humid Conditions

Moth orchids thrive in moist environments. To raise humidity, place the plant pot on pebbles or marbles sitting in water, ensuring no water touches the bottom of the container.

4. Fertilize Regularly

Use a quarter- to half-strength solution of water-soluble fertilizer every time you water. Watch for signs of under- or over-fertilizing. Plants without enough food will have small flowers, while those with too much fertilizer will have soft leaves.

5. Prune Spent Blooms

Cut the flower stalk in between the third and fourth node once the blooms stop. This often triggers another flower stalk in 3-4 months.

6. Repot Regularly

Repot every 1-2 years. Use fresh orchid bark and trim squishy or thin roots. Repot in the same-sized pot unless the roots have outgrown it, in which case use a larger container.

7. Watch for Pests

Mealybugs are common. For fast, effective, and non-toxic results, spray them with 70% isopropyl alcohol.

8. Choose Wisely When Purchasing

When buying a moth orchid, look for one with firm, light green leaves. Avoid deformed or damaged plants.

Good luck, and with all those pretty blooms, it’s hard to choose!

* Paul Brecht Orchid Gardens, 1989 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa, (949) 548-2314.

* Regal Flowers, 658 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 532-2518.

January Planting List

January Gardening Tasks: What to Plant and Protect

Though January is usually one of our coldest months, there is still plenty to do in the garden. It’s the perfect time to buy and plant bare-root roses, berries, and fruit trees. Pruning of deciduous fruit trees and vines should also be done.

There are a variety of flowers and vegetables that thrive in cool weather. Keep in mind that plants started from seed might take longer to germinate than they would in warmer weather.

If there is rain, wait four to seven days before planting in the ground. The soil should be moist but never soggy. When you must wait to plant because of wet weather, store bare-root plants in a cool location and keep the root ball moist.

Keep an ear open for frost warnings. Tender plants in containers should be moved to the safety of a garage, under the eaves of a house, or under a large tree. To protect plants in the ground, create a tent over them. Simply laying materials such as sheets on the plants will not provide adequate frost protection. Always remove protective coverings in the morning.

Windy weather is also a problem. When the Santa Anas blow, make sure to keep plants well watered. Additionally, spray plant leaves and nearby hardscape with water to raise the humidity level, helping plants cope with the dry air.

Flowers to Plant in January

Here’s a list of flowers that can be grown from seed or starter plants:

  • Alyssum
  • Bachelor’s button
  • Bromeliad
  • Cactus
  • Calendula
  • California poppy
  • Candytuft
  • Carnation
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English primrose
  • Foxglove
  • Fuchsia
  • Geranium
  • Iceland poppy
  • Impatiens
  • Flowering kale
  • Kalanchoe
  • Larkspur
  • Lupine
  • Nasturtium
  • Nemesia
  • Pansy
  • Salvia
  • Schizanthus

Vegetables and Herbs to Grow

These vegetables and herbs thrive in cooler temperatures:

  • Arugula
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Cilantro
  • Collards
  • Cress
  • Dill
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mint
  • Mustard greens
  • Onion
  • Parsley
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Swiss chard
  • Turnip

Trees and Shrubs

These trees and shrubs are great to plant in January:

  • Azalea
  • Boronia
  • Camellia
  • Euryops
  • Montanoa grandiflora

Bare-Root Plants to Consider

Consider planting these bare-root varieties:

  • Artichoke
  • Asparagus
  • Berries
  • Grape
  • Flowering trees
  • Fruit trees
  • Rose
  • Shade trees
  • Strawberry

The Surprising Pleasures of a Garden Journal

Why Keeping a Garden Journal Is a Smart Habit

Perhaps the most useful garden book you will ever read is your own.

Since 1990, I’ve kept a garden journal. In it, I’ve recorded when I’ve pruned, fertilized, planted, and acquired plants. I’ve also made diagrams of the garden and commented on how the garden looks and feels at various stages.

While I could live without my journal and my garden would grow without it, I often find it useful and interesting to peruse, noting how things change and how things stay the same.

Take the time to start a garden journal, and you’ll probably find it has immeasurable benefits.

Seal Beach gardener Gary Putnam’s 22-year-old garden journal is an old friend and invaluable gardening tool.

“One of the best reasons to keep a journal is that it builds your awareness of what goes on in the garden over the course of a year and gets you focused on what you’ve done and what you still want to do,” he says.

Putnam uses his journal to answer basic questions about his yard that are necessary for successfully growing plants, such as sun exposure and temperature. His journal also provides a record of what performs well in his garden and what doesn’t, and when and how he fertilizes plants.

At times, his journal has even calmed worries about plants that seem to be ailing.

“Two winters ago I wrote about my pentas and how after a couple of months of cold, it collapsed but came back again in June,” he says. “Last year when it started looking bad in winter, I was comforted to read that the same thing had happened the previous year.”

Keep It Simple

Don’t let a garden journal intimidate you.

“Keep the journal simple; it doesn’t have to be anything fancy,” says Putnam. “My first is just an old composition book, which I find charming. My second is also simple, although it has a garden-related cover.”

Your notations don’t have to be long. Just a brief note about the weather in January and whether the camellias are flowering will give you important information in years to come. Notes on rainfall—or lack of it—are also useful, as well as when frost hits and what kind of damage the Santa Ana winds wreak on tender plants.

What to Include in Your Garden Journal

  • Vital statistics on plants you’re growing, including height, spread, foliage characteristics, flower color, and blooming season.
  • Information on plants seen in other gardens that you want to grow, and tips from other gardeners on growing them.
  • Notes from garden books and lectures.
  • Information on work you’ve done in the garden, including planting, seeding, fertilizing, mulching, and pruning.
  • Garden tasks that you want to accomplish.
  • Comments on the weather and how plants are doing throughout the year.
  • Diagrams of the garden or the garden of your dreams, including pictures of gardens you admire.
  • Photos of your garden as it progresses.
  • Virtually anything about the garden that pops into your mind on any given day, including a brief mention of how much you like a certain plant.

Gourd Your Home

Why Keeping a Garden Journal Is a Smart Habit

Perhaps the most useful garden book you will ever read is your own.

Since 1990, I’ve kept a garden journal. In it, I’ve recorded when I’ve pruned, fertilized, planted, and acquired plants. I’ve also made diagrams of the garden and commented on how the garden looks and feels at various stages.

While I could live without my journal and my garden would grow without it, I often find it useful and interesting to peruse, noting how things change and how things stay the same.

Take the time to start a garden journal, and you’ll probably find it has immeasurable benefits.

Seal Beach gardener Gary Putnam’s 22-year-old garden journal is an old friend and invaluable gardening tool.

“One of the best reasons to keep a journal is that it builds your awareness of what goes on in the garden over the course of a year and gets you focused on what you’ve done and what you still want to do,” he says.

Putnam uses his journal to answer basic questions about his yard that are necessary for successfully growing plants, such as sun exposure and temperature. His journal also provides a record of what performs well in his garden and what doesn’t, and when and how he fertilizes plants.

At times, his journal has even calmed worries about plants that seem to be ailing.

“Two winters ago I wrote about my pentas and how after a couple of months of cold, it collapsed but came back again in June,” he says. “Last year when it started looking bad in winter, I was comforted to read that the same thing had happened the previous year.”

Keep It Simple

Don’t let a garden journal intimidate you.

“Keep the journal simple; it doesn’t have to be anything fancy,” says Putnam. “My first is just an old composition book, which I find charming. My second is also simple, although it has a garden-related cover.”

Your notations don’t have to be long. Just a brief note about the weather in January and whether the camellias are flowering will give you important information in years to come. Notes on rainfall—or lack of it—are also useful, as well as when frost hits and what kind of damage the Santa Ana winds wreak on tender plants.

What to Include in Your Garden Journal

  • Vital statistics on plants you’re growing, including height, spread, foliage characteristics, flower color, and blooming season.
  • Information on plants seen in other gardens that you want to grow, and tips from other gardeners on growing them.
  • Notes from garden books and lectures.
  • Information on work you’ve done in the garden, including planting, seeding, fertilizing, mulching, and pruning.
  • Garden tasks that you want to accomplish.
  • Comments on the weather and how plants are doing throughout the year.
  • Diagrams of the garden or the garden of your dreams, including pictures of gardens you admire.
  • Photos of your garden as it progresses.
  • Virtually anything about the garden that pops into your mind on any given day, including a brief mention of how much you like a certain plant.

Creating a Painted Dipper Gourd

How to Make a Decorative Dipper Gourd

Ginger Summit of Los Altos, Calif., has authored several popular books on gourd crafts, including
“The Complete Book of Gourd Craft” (Lark Books, $18.95), now in its 10th printing, and
“Gourd Crafts: 20 Great Projects to Dye, Paint, Carve, Bead, and Woodburn in a Weekend”,
which will be released this winter by Lark Books.

According to Summit, dipper gourds have been used for thousands of years as cups, spoons, and ladles.
Below are her step-by-step instructions for creating a festive decorative dipper gourd:

🎨 DIY Instructions for a Decorative Dipper Gourd

  1. Clean the gourd: Wash the outside thoroughly. Cut it in half lengthwise and clean out the interior. File and sand the cut edge smooth.
  2. Condition the interior: Brush a light coat of salad oil onto the inside of the gourd.
  3. Sketch your design: Use a pencil to draw festive decorations like autumn leaves or holly sprigs. Extend the artwork onto the handle.
  4. Paint the design: Fill in the sketch using acrylic paints.
  5. Add detail: Outline the painted design with a black pen or permanent marker. Let it dry completely.
  6. Enhance with texture: Apply dimensional paints for a raised, textured effect. Allow to dry.
  7. Seal the gourd: Finish with a clear coat of polyurethane. Before applying, test the sealant on a scrap piece of gourd to ensure it won’t smear the design.

November Planting Guide

November Gardening Guide: What to Plant This Month

November is the last busy month in the garden before early spring. Although some days are chilly and overcast, many days are warm, sunny, and perfect for gardening.

This is a great time to clean up the garden and add collected debris to the compost pile. A variety of cool-season vegetables, flowers, bulbs, and herbs thrive in November weather.

🌸 Flowers to Plant in November

  • Alyssum
  • Aster
  • Bachelor’s Button
  • Begonia
  • Bromeliad
  • Calendula
  • California Poppy
  • Carnation
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English Primrose
  • Forget-Me-Not
  • Foxglove
  • Geranium
  • Iceland Poppy
  • Impatiens
  • Flowering Kale
  • Lantana
  • Larkspur
  • Lupine
  • Nasturtium
  • Nemesia
  • Pansy
  • Scabiosa
  • Snapdragon
  • Schizanthus
  • Stock
  • Sweet Pea
  • Sweet Violet
  • Viola
  • Wildflowers

🥕 Vegetables to Plant in November

  • Artichoke
  • Arugula
  • Asparagus
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels Sprouts
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Collards
  • Cress
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Horseradish
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard Greens
  • Onion
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rhubarb
  • Rutabaga
  • Salsify
  • Spinach
  • Strawberry
  • Swiss Chard
  • Turnip

🌷 Bulbs & Tubers for Fall Planting

  • Allium
  • Anemone
  • Calla Lily
  • Crocus (chilled 8 weeks)
  • Daffodil
  • Dutch Iris
  • Freesia
  • Gladiolus
  • Grape Hyacinth
  • Hyacinth (chilled 8 weeks)
  • Lily
  • Muscari
  • Narcissus
  • Ranunculus
  • Scilla
  • Tulip (chilled 8 weeks)
  • Watsonia

🌿 Herbs to Grow in November

  • Bay Laurel
  • Chamomile
  • Chervil
  • Chive
  • Cilantro
  • Dill
  • Fennel
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Parsley
  • Rosemary
  • Sage
  • Salad Burnet
  • Sweet Marjoram
  • Winter Savory
  • Thyme

Going Buggy

The Rapid Movement of People and Goods Invites Exotic Pests to Hospitable Southland

Know that irritating little whitefly attacking garden plants, or the nasty fire ant threatening Southern California yards? And those pesky rules against transporting fruit and plants across state lines?

These problems have a common cause: imported pests. Known as exotic or invasive pests, they are nonnative species introduced from other parts of the world—often via vegetation transported by travelers or home gardeners.

Imported Pests: A Growing Problem

“We’re getting a large number of urban pests into the state and the country as a whole,” says Tim Paine, Chair of the Entomology Department at UC Riverside. “People are traveling a lot and moving a lot of plant material.”

Before blaming others, consider your own habits. That cutting from Aunt Mabel’s begonia you packed in your suitcase may seem harmless—but are you sure?

“We understand that people’s motives are good when they transport plants to remind them of a vacation, or fruit to give to family and friends,” Paine says. “But it only takes one pest. If 30 million people do it just once, it becomes a significant problem.”

Exotic Pests Can Be Dangerous

According to John Kabashima of the University of California Cooperative Extension, many exotic pests are hitchhikers or are being smuggled in intentionally or unknowingly.

“Even people aware that it’s illegal to smuggle fruit or plant material don’t understand the long-term fiscal, biological, and health consequences,” Kabashima says.

Some invasive pests—like the Africanized honeybee and the red imported fire ant—pose serious health threats and can lead to massive economic damage:

  • Formosan subterranean termite: Treatment of one home can exceed $5,000.
  • Mediterranean fruit fly: Control efforts have cost millions. If established, it could cost the state $1.4 billion annually.

There are also ecological impacts, including disruption of ecosystems and degradation of California’s cherished outdoor lifestyle.

Globalization Accelerates the Spread

Urban entomologist Michael Rust says exotic pests aren’t new, but modern transport has accelerated their arrival.

“The Argentine ant was first reported in California at the turn of the century. But insects that couldn’t survive a sea voyage 100 years ago now make it on a 12-hour flight.”

Entomology professor Paine adds:

“According to the California Department of Food and Agriculture, every 60 days on average a new insect pest is introduced or established. Some are harmless, others cause serious damage.”

Why Exotic Pests Thrive Here

Exotic pests thrive in Southern California due to:

  • Lack of natural predators and parasites
  • Mild Mediterranean climate
  • Extensive diversity of plant species in urban gardens
  • Regular irrigation and urban landscaping

“Urban landscapes rival tropical rainforests in plant diversity,” Paine notes. “Most gardens are well irrigated, creating ideal conditions for pests like the red imported fire ant, which wouldn’t survive here otherwise.”

Some exotic pests also crowd out native species, disrupting natural pollination, fertilization, and seed dispersal processes.

Controlling Exotic Pests: Past and Present

Past attempts to eradicate pests using herbicides and pesticides largely failed:

“After WWII, we believed chemicals could solve our insect problems. But pests returned, often stronger and pesticide-resistant. Meanwhile, beneficial insects were killed off and didn’t recover as easily,” says Rust.

Today, the preferred approach includes:

  • Minimal pesticide use: As a last resort only.
  • Biological control: Introducing natural predators to keep pest populations low, similar to their levels in native habitats.

“Biological control isn’t a quick fix, but it’s the only long-term solution,” says Paine. “You want to turn over a hibiscus leaf and find little to no whitefly.”

What Gardeners Can Do

While gardeners may not be scientists, they can help prevent pest spread by following these practices:

  • Resist the urge to smuggle fruit or plants.
  • Buy plants only from licensed California plant businesses.
  • Report unusual pests to:
    • Orange County Agricultural Commissioner: (714) 447-7100
    • California Department of Food and Agriculture: (800) 491-1899
  • Plant varieties suited for local conditions; choose resistant strains when possible.
  • Mix plant types in your garden—most pests prefer specific hosts.
  • Keep plants healthy with proper watering, fertilization, and pruning.

Exotic-Pest Primer

Exotic Invasive Pests in Southern California Gardens

The following is a sampling of exotic, invasive pests found in Southern California gardens:

Ash Whitefly

  • Attacks fruit and shade trees
  • First found in California in the late 1980s
  • Caused defoliation, fruit loss, and tree death
  • Brought under control by a parasitic wasp from its native Middle East and Mediterranean

Black Scale

  • Periodic citrus pest and consistent issue for olives in San Jacinto Valley
  • Likely native to Africa, arrived in California before 1880
  • Infests a wide range of plants
  • Controlled to some extent by a natural enemy introduced in 1940, but still a persistent problem
  • Decreases fruit size and production when infestations are high

Eucalyptus Longhorned Borer

  • Discovered in Orange County in 1984
  • Destroys eucalyptus trees in larval stage by cutting off nutrient supply
  • Removal of dead trees costs $500–$5,000
  • Controlled via education, resistant species research, and parasite introduction

Formosan Subterranean Termite

  • Native to mainland China, introduced from Hawaii over 10 years ago
  • Colonies can exceed 1 million termites
  • Highly destructive—can render homes uninhabitable within two years
  • Strong presence in San Diego
  • Limited control success with insect growth regulators

Giant Whitefly

  • Likely native to Mexico
  • Attacks over 50 common ornamental plants
  • Causes defoliation, stunting, and potential plant death
  • Found in California, Texas, Louisiana, and Florida
  • Miniature parasitic wasps show promise in early field trials

Mediterranean Fruit Fly (Medfly)

  • First discovered in Southern California in 1975; reappeared in 1998
  • Affects at least 253 species of fruits, nuts, and vegetables
  • Females lay eggs under fruit skin; maggots rot the fruit
  • Researchers are studying behavior in Mediterranean regions for control strategies

Red Gum Lerp Psyllid

  • Australian native first detected in South El Monte in 1998
  • Rapidly spread across California, damaging eucalyptus trees
  • Feeds on plant fluids and can kill trees if untreated
  • Six Australian parasites being studied for natural control
  • Best prevention: proper watering, avoiding over-fertilizing and overpruning

Red Imported Fire Ant

  • Native to South America; major issue in the southern U.S.
  • Stings cause painful pustules, potential scarring, and in rare cases, death
  • Detected in Orange County in 1998
  • More than $1.1 billion spent annually in Texas on control efforts
  • Researchers studying insect behavior and insecticide options

Sprouts That Grow on You

Many of Them Lend Flavor and Nutrition to All Types of Dishes and Are Easy to Germinate

Do you hear the word “sprouts” and envision a mayonnaise jar under the kitchen sink filled with unappetizing white strands? I did… until recently. Then I tasted the nutty, earthy flavor of lentil sprouts, the slightly peppery flavor of broccoli sprouts, and the rich taste of onion sprouts.

“There’s a lot more out there than bean sprouts,” says Mary Kidd, production manager of R&R Sprouts in Santa Fe Springs, which sells at the Fullerton Certified Farmers’ Market. “When we give people a sample of our mix—containing two types of lentils, adzuki, mung, and green peas—they almost always like it and buy some.”

Not only are sprouts tasty and easy to grow, they’re good for you. Scientists at Johns Hopkins made headlines in 1997 when they found that 3-day-old broccoli sprouts contain 20 to 50 times more of the anti-cancer agent sulforaphane than mature broccoli.

“Sprouts are very nutritious,” says Newport Beach registered dietitian Lisa Licavoli. “They have a lot of vitamins and minerals. For instance, lentil sprouts have vitamin C, but lentils don’t. However, the nutrient content of sprouts is measured by weight, and sprouts don’t weigh much. You have to eat a lot of them to get a significant amount of vitamins and minerals.”

Creative Ways to Use Sprouts

  • Soups
  • Salads
  • Sandwiches
  • Stir-fry dishes
  • Casseroles
  • Dips and spreads
  • Yogurt and bread
  • Vegetarian meatloaf and stuffed peppers (using ground sprouts)

How to Sprout at Home

You can sprout a variety of dried beans, seeds, and grains. Choose from the jar method or a store-bought sprouter:

Jar Method

  1. Place seeds in a wide-mouthed jar and cover with water.
  2. Soak for up to 12 hours.
  3. Drain and leave jar upside down at an angle.
  4. Rinse and drain once or twice daily until sprouts appear.
  5. Keep out of direct sunlight to avoid molding.

Store-Bought Sprouter

Try the 3-tier acrylic sprouter by NK Lawn & Garden Co. It allows sprouting of three types at once and is easy to use—just pour in water and let it do the work.

Tips for Safe Sprouting

  • Use organic or untreated seeds labeled for sprouting.
  • Use filtered water.
  • Store sprouts in a paper towel-lined plastic container in the fridge.

Where to Find Sprouting Supplies

  • R&R Sprouts: Fullerton Certified Farmers’ Market, Mother’s Market, and Trader Joe’s. Phone: (562) 906-0847.
  • NK Lawn & Garden Co.: Products available at Armstrong Garden Centers, Wal-Mart, and Homebase. Phone: (800) 517-1151, Ext. 2989.
  • Johnny’s Selected Seeds: Sprouting seeds and book “Sprouts, The Miracle Food” by Steve Meyerowitz. Phone: (207) 437-4301.
  • Shepherd’s Garden Seeds: Carries broccoli sprouting seeds and sprouter. Phone: (860) 482-3638.

Popular Sprouts: Flavors, Nutrition & Soaking Times

Adzuki: Nutty flavor, used in Asian dishes. High in protein, iron, calcium. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 3–5 days.

Alfalfa: Nutty flavor, great in salads and juices. Complete protein. Soak 4–6 hrs, ready in 4–5 days.

Broccoli: Slightly peppery, ideal for snacking. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 6 days.

Chickpea (Garbanzo): Rich in minerals, good for dips and spreads. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 2–3 days.

Green Pea: Pea-flavored, rich in vitamins B and C. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 2–3 days.

Lentil: Earthy, nutty flavor. High in B vitamins and protein. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 3–5 days.

Mung: Mild, crunchy; grow in dark. Complete protein. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 3–5 days.

Onion: Mild onion flavor, no bad breath. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 7–9 days.

Radish: Spicy, sharp; high in potassium and vitamin C. Soak 4–6 hrs, ready in 4–5 days.

Sesame: Rich in calcium, protein. Must use immediately. Soak 4–6 hrs, ready in 1–2 days.

Soybean: Rinse often, complete protein. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 2 days.

Sunflower: Great in salads and cereals. Soak 8 hrs, ready in 1–3 days.

Wheat: Malty flavor, great in granola. Soak 12 hrs, ready in 2–3 days.

Fragrant Plants

Fragrant Plants That Enchant the Garden

These plants are known for their fragrance. Some release a scent that travels far and wide, while others offer their aromas up close. Here’s a list of fragrant plants that can elevate your garden experience:

Aromatic Annuals and Perennials

  • Alyssum: This white or lavender annual reseeds itself and offers a sweet scent when disturbed.
  • Heliotrope: A sweet vanilla-scented evergreen perennial, especially fragrant in white varieties. All parts are poisonous.
  • Moonflower (Ipomoea alba): This night-blooming vine with heart-shaped leaves and large, white flowers is fragrant and blooms in summer and fall.
  • Nicotiana: Tubular flowers that open at night and emit a strong fragrance. All parts are poisonous and some varieties reseed easily.
  • Sweet peas: These sweet-scented annuals bloom from winter into spring. Available in bush and climbing types. Highly poisonous.

Fragrant Shrubs and Small Trees

  • Gardenia: Intensely fragrant white flowers bloom throughout the year on hedges and shrubs.
  • Michelia Tree:
    • M. champaca: Tall with small orange flowers that bloom most of the year.
    • ‘Jack Fogg’: Shorter variety with large, white fragrant flowers blooming in spring.
    • Banana shrub (M. figo): Small shrub with banana-scented flowers, blooms March through May.
  • Osmanthus fragrans: Evergreen shrub with small white flowers and a strong apricot-like scent. Blooms mostly in spring and summer.
  • Plumeria: Shrubs or small trees with fragrant flowers used in leis. Bloom in summer and fall; go dormant in late fall.
  • Roses: Classic fragrant flowers. Be selective as some hybrids and miniatures lack scent.

Fragrant Herbs and Tropicals

  • Citrus: Spring blooms are fragrant, and the ripening fruit also releases pleasant aromas. Dwarf varieties grow well in containers.
  • Geraniums: Scented varieties like apple and rose are best placed where leaves can be brushed or picked to release fragrance.
  • Jasmine:
    • Pink Jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum): Blooms in spring and early summer.
    • Star Jasmine (Trachelospermum): Not a true jasmine; blooms in spring.
    • Night Jessamine (Cestrum nocturnum): Late summer and fall bloomer with strong nighttime fragrance.
    • Madagascar Jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda): Summer blooming with waxy, white fragrant flowers.
  • Lavender: Known for its calming aroma. Both flowers and leaves are fragrant. English lavender is among the most aromatic.
  • Lilac: Traditionally difficult to grow in mild climates, but varieties like ‘Blue Skies’ and ‘Lavender Lady’ thrive in Southern California.

Scents and Sensibility : Special blossoms are more than a treat for the eyes

Their Heady Fragrances Can Make the Nose Gay

I know the reason my friend Wendy visits me in the spring. She comes to smell my pink jasmine. I find her near the potted vine, pocketing flowers, and she’s always crushed in June when it finishes blooming.

Now in late summer, my night jessamine is blooming, casting its heady aroma into every corner of the yard. Its scent is so intoxicating that it never fails to lure me outside with the stars.

A garden wouldn’t be a garden without fragrance. True, attractive flowers and foliage are the backbone of a landscape, but fragrance perfuming the air makes the garden a magical, tempting haven. Research has shown that our sense of smell is our most evocative. Aromas alter mood. The scent of lavender, for instance, is said to calm nerves.

Scent is often thought of as coming from flowers, but it also originates in leaves, bark, fruit, seeds and roots, says Katie Bloome, a landscape architect and a manager for Monrovia, an Azusa wholesale grower that introduced a fragrant collection of plants that is available throughout Southern California nurseries.

“Fragrance comes from the oils that are in the glands of plants,” Bloome says. “The oils evaporate and the molecules are released into the air, which is what causes scent. There are many different essential oils found in the plant kingdom, and each plant has a mixture of compounds that make up its unique fragrance.”

Essential oils are perceived differently by everyone, which is why a scent may be delightful to one person and repellent to another.

Understanding Flower Fragrance

  • White and pastel blooms are the most fragrant. Pale pinks are particularly potent.
  • Darker flowers like orange and crimson often have little to no fragrance.
  • Fragrance is used to attract pollinators and discourage pests. Non-fragrant flowers rely more on color and shape.

Tips for Creating a Fragrant Garden

  • Plan for year-round fragrance:

    • Star jasmine blooms in spring.
    • Plumeria flowers bloom in summer and fall.
    • Gardenias often bloom most of the year.
  • Consider the time of day:

    • Night-blooming jessamine releases fragrance only after dark.
    • Lavender is great for daytime scent.
    • Nicotiana and moonflower are lovely for summer and fall evenings.
  • Don’t combine too many scents: Avoid mixing too many fragrant plants at once, as some can overpower others.
  • Place fragrant plants in high-traffic areas: Walkways and windows are ideal spots.
  • Shelter fragrance in enclosed spaces: Use courtyards, atriums, or trellised patios to trap and enhance scent.

Expand Your Fragrant Plant Selection

  • Don’t limit to flowers — consider leaves, fruits, bark, and roots.
  • Thyme, mint, rosemary, lavender, and scented geraniums release aroma when brushed.
  • Use groundcovers like thyme and mint in pathways for sensory appeal.

Design with Scent in Mind

  • Place subtly scented plants like alyssum and heliotrope at nose level using containers.
  • Taller shrubs and vines naturally allow easy appreciation of their aroma.

Resources

  • To find a nursery that carries the Monrovia fragrant collection, call (888) Plant It.
  • For information from Kitano’s Garden Center, call (714) 521-2772.

Good Pathway Plants

Best Low-Growing Plants for Pathways

For best results when planting a pathway, amend soil by 25% to 50% with planter mix, suggests Ted Mayeda, owner of M&M Nursery in Orange.
Until they’re established, water plants before they dry out, but be careful not to overwater.

The following low-growing plants are perfect for planting next to or within a pathway.
The ground covers listed can tolerate light foot traffic.

Recommended Pathway Plants

  • Alyssum: Prostrate, trailing plant with nearly continuous clusters of flowers in purple, lavender, and white. Full sun to shade.
  • Aptenia: Trailing ice plant with bright red flowers. Full sun.
  • Baby’s Tears: Creeping plant with tiny round leaves forming a lush green mat. Shade inland; part-sun on the coast.
  • Blue Star Creeper (Laurentia fluviatilis): Low-growing with small, pointed, oval leaves and blue starlike flowers in late spring and summer. Full sun or partial shade.
  • Campanula: Many species with bell-shaped, star-shaped, or cup-shaped flowers in blue, lavender, violet, purple, and white. Shade inland; some sun on the coast.
  • Carex berggrenii: Ornamental clumping grass, 2 to 4 inches tall, with blue-green, metallic gray, or reddish brown foliage. Full sun to part shade.
  • Corsican Mint: Low-growing mint with tiny, round bright green leaves and light purple summer flowers. Fragrant when stepped on. Sun or partial shade.
  • Erodium: Relative of geranium, 3 to 6 inches tall. Blooms from spring through fall in white, rose-pink, or white with lavender veins. Part shade (E. reichardii needs full shade).
  • Ivy: Low-growing, small-leaved types like needlepoint ivy stay compact. Tolerates sun or part shade.
  • Korean Grass (Zoysia tenuifolia): Creeping, fine-textured, mounding grass with a mossy effect. Needs little water once established. Full sun to light shade.
  • Mondo Grass (Ophiopogon japonicus ‘Kyoto Dwarf’): Dark green, straplike leaves, 4–6 inches long, forming tight clumps. Full sun to part shade.
  • Moss (Irish and Scotch): Dense mosslike foliage, ideal for filling in between stepping stones. Irish moss is green; Scotch moss is golden-green. Full sun to partial shade.
  • Pennyroyal: Creeping mint with 1-inch round leaves and small lavender flowers. Strong mint fragrance. Requires moist soil and shade to partial sun.
  • Thyme: Multiple low-growing varieties make excellent ground covers:
    • ‘Doone Valley’: Matting thyme with green and gold-mottled foliage, red-purple flowers, and lemon scent. Grows to 3 inches tall.
    • Woolly Thyme: Forms flat to slightly undulating mat of gray woolly foliage, 2–3 inches tall.
    • Elfin Thyme: Compact matting plant with green foliage and soft pink summer flowers.

    All thymes tolerate sun to partial shade.