If you have the space, Alfredo Chiri encourages planting kiwi vines.

“They are a beautiful vine with large hibiscus-like, dark-green shiny leaves and rose-like, fragrant flowers,” said Chiri, a member of the Orange County Rare Fruit Growers, who cares for the club’s rare-fruit grove at the Fullerton Arboretum.

“You can train the vine on a trellis, fence, arbor or back wall and it can look really stunning,” he said. “They also make a great deal of fruit. We’ve estimated that the four vines at the arboretum produce between 200 and 300 kilos [440 to 660 pounds] per season.”

To have success growing kiwi, keep the following tips in mind.

* Provide adequate space. Kiwi is a large, vigorous vine that can easily reach 20 feet. To get fruit, plant a male and female, as they require cross-pollination. It is possible, however, to save space and get a grafted plant that has both genders on the same vine.

* Choose varieties carefully. ‘Hayward’ kiwi plants are the ones generally sold in the store, but they require a great deal of winter chilling and don’t do well here. Some varieties that thrive in Southern California include ‘Elmwood,’ ‘Vincent,’ ‘Matua,’ Chinensis species, ‘Cordifolia,’ ‘Anna,’ ‘Ken’s Red,’ ‘Dumbarton Oaks’ and ‘Meader.’

* Plant in full sun in the ground. Soil must be well-draining. If you have heavy clay, improve drainage by amending with compost and pumice. Plant at the same level as the plant was in its nursery container, or if bare-root, plant so that the roots are covered and no higher.

* Mulch. Do this on a regular basis, making sure to keep the mulch away from the trunk.

* Provide support. The kiwi is a large forest vine that naturally grows up into trees. Provide something substantial for it to grow on, such as a patio cover, arbor, fence or a large, strong trellis.

* Watch watering. Kiwi requires a lot of water in the summer. Without adequate irrigation during warm months, fruit production will falter and leaves will turn brown around the edges and fall off in August or September. Kiwi cannot, however, sit in standing water, especially during its dormant period in winter, which is why drainage is so important.

* Feeding. Use a fruit fertilizer that contains nitrogen. Composted manures also work, but must be kept away from the trunk. Feed three times from March to July.

* Prune. Winter pruning is important because kiwi will not grow on old fruiting wood. In general, you want to prune out old wood in January or February to make room for new growth. With new plants, it’s also important to train one branch as the main trunk.

The fruit needs to ripen on the vine, though it will continue to sweeten once you pick it. To make sure that kiwi is ready for harvesting, cut a fruit open. If the seeds are black, it’s ready. If they haven’t changed color yet, the fruit should stay on the vine.

* Watch for pests. Snails devour the new growth buds on young plants, and cats can also be a problem. According to Meyer, there is a chemical in the roots and buds of the kiwi that attracts felines, who damage the buds by rubbing on them.

Where to Look for Information

* For more information on kiwi, visit the California Rare Fr

uit Growers on the Web at http://www.crfg.org and go to the Fruit Facts page.

* The Orange County Rare Fruit Growers will answer any questions on growing kiwi. They meet the third Thursday of every month at 7:30 p.m. in the Centennial Farm silo building at the Orange County Fairgrounds, Costa Mesa. Use main entrance on Fair Drive.

* Kiwi can be found in various nurseries throughout Southern California or by contacting Valley Vista Kiwi at (714) 839-0796 or e-mail: exoticfruit@95net.com.

Geri Cibellis of Villa Park is a big fan of cilantro. She sows seed in October and enjoys the herb during fall, winter and spring.

“Cilantro has such a delightful flavor,” said the past president of the Orange County Organic Gardening Club. “I not only use it in salsa, but it’s a great flavor enhancer for many dishes. It’s even good on boiled potatoes with a little butter or olive oil.”

*

Common in many Mexican and Asian dishes, cilantro is originally from Asia. The seeds of this annual herb are called coriander, but its fresh leaves are usually called cilantro or Chinese parsley.

Cilantro leaves have a distinctive, sharp flavor, while the seeds are more mild. The seeds are considered a major spice in India and the Middle East, and are used in sausage and various bean dishes and stews. They are also a major component of curry powders and chutneys. In Thai cuisine, the entire cilantro plant is used, including the roots.

A member of the same family as parsley and dill, cilantro has delicate, fern-like foliage and flat clusters of pinkish-white flowers, which attract beneficial insects. For the best success growing cilantro, keep the following tips in mind:

* Plant in full sun in the ground or containers.

* Grow from seed. “Cilantro doesn’t like to be transplanted, so you’re better off planting from seed,” Creasy said. She suggested seeking slow-bolt or long-season varieties of seed at nurseries or via mail order.

“Ninety-five percent of cilantro in the world is grown for the seed, which is why many varieties tend to quickly go to seed,” Creasy said. “The slow-bolt varieties have been bred for their foliage and will give you a longer, more lush harvest.”

* Provide rich, organic soil. Before planting, amend with homemade or bagged compost.

* Scatter seed. Cibellis sprinkles the seed over the prepared bed and keeps it continually moist until plants emerge. Once growing, cilantro needs to be kept moist, but not soggy.

* Separate plants before transplanting. “Generally when you find plants in the nursery, they consist of many small plants growing together,” Creasy said. “If you plant the whole clump, it will usually die. The secret is to separate each tiny plant.”

* Save seed. Once cilantro flowers and goes to seed, you can use the dried seed as coriander or save it for future planting. Cibellis has been saving the seed from her cilantro for years and replanting it. She puts dried flower heads in a paper bag and shakes them, which releases the seeds. They are then stored in a cool, dry place.

* Fertilize only when leaves yellow. If well-amended, cilantro shouldn’t need additional fertilizer. If feeding is necessary, a chemical fertilizer should be used, because organic forms of nitrogen are not released when the ground is cold.

The holiday celebrates an event that took place about 165 BC in what is now Israel. The ruler at the time was non-Jewish and attempted to convert the Jews, but a small group fought the conversion. The ruler gave up after three years, but during that time the Jewish temple was desecrated. They eventually rebuilt and rededicated it. “Hanukkah” means “rededicate” in Hebrew. There are eight days to the celebration, which is why menorahs have eight branches, plus one for the servant candle that lights the others. As the Goldmarks light each candle during Hanukkah, they bring in a new flower from the garden.

*

When Paul Apodaca, a Navajo, decided to celebrate the holidays 15 years ago, he knew that a Christmas tree–which is of European origin–just wouldn’t do.

“I wanted to put presents under something that would make me feel inclusive of the season but not be too foreign to who I am and my roots,” said Apodaca, who teaches courses about American Indians and culture at Chapman University in Orange and is a consultant to the Smithsonian Institution’s National Museum of the American Indian.

After some thought, Apodaca came up with the idea of creating a Southwestern-style Christmas. He purchased a synthetic cactus that resembles a saguaro, which he decorates with chile-pepper lights, cornhusks and hand-woven folk dolls from the Southwest, Mexico and South America.

“Although my cactus seemed like the natural choice from someone with my background, I’ve been surprised to not find anyone else with the same idea,” Apodaca said. “For me, it makes perfect sense.”

*

Christmas is the time for Connie Ortiz to teach her grandchildren about their Mexican heritage.

“It’s important to me that my grandchildren learn about their cultural roots,” said Ortiz, who was born in Mexico. “I try to preserve my culture in my holiday decorations by including significant plants, fruit and vegetables from the garden.”

At the center of many of Ortiz’s decorations is the poinsettia, which is native to Mexico. Every December, Ortiz buys one or two dozen to decorate inside and outside her Orange home.

Ortiz, a master gardener who teaches nutrition for the University of California Cooperative Extension, also creates wreaths for holiday decorations, using many dried foods important in her culture, including cornhusks, limes and chiles.

As a final touch and a good source for snacking, she fills her home with festive bowls of in-season fruit from the garden, such as cherimoyas, guavas and papayas.

* Monterey pine: A very fast grower that can reach 80 feet. Tree has deep green foliage with soft branches and needles. Must be sheared to keep dense and maintain shape. Prune when most of the new growth tips seem to have appeared. Good for a couple of years in a container, then must be planted in the ground.

“Place it in a bright location, preferably within 5 to 8 feet of an east-, south- or west-facing window that has no outdoor obstructions,” Mayeda said.

It’s also important to keep your tree away from forced-air heating vents, because this will quickly dry it out.

“If possible, turn off the forced air in the room where the tree is located,” Greenwood said.

To avoid drying out and damaging the tree, spray it with an anti-transpirant such as Cloudcover, which will help to prevent water loss through the needles.

* Indoor watering: Avoid overwatering the tree while indoors. In general, keep the tree evenly moist, but not soggy. Greenwood suggests watering by sprinkling ice cubes on the soil surface, which will melt and slowly seep to the root ball.

Always keep a saucer under the plant in case of moisture leakage, and never let the pot sit in water, as this will quickly lead to root rot. Remove excess water with a turkey baster.

* Lights: If you put lights on your tree, use mini-lights, which don’t emit enough heat to damage needles. Wire them so they don’t rest directly on the needles.

Never flock a living Christmas tree.

* After-holiday care: Once the festivities end, move the tree outdoors to a full-sun location as soon as possible.

If you’ll be keeping the tree in a container, transplant it to a bigger pot before spring. Pot the tree in at least the next pot size, which will give the plant room to grow.

Use a high quality, well-draining potting soil. Feed the tree throughout the spring and summer with a low nitrogen, water-soluble fertilizer. Don’t overfeed, as this will lead to fast growth that will quickly create an unwieldy tree.

“Once a living Christmas tree becomes too heavy and unwieldy for you, it makes a great landscape addition or it can be donated to a public park or school,” Greenwood said.

Keep the tree clean by washing the foliage down throughout the year and hosing off any dead needles, which tend to accumulate at the trunk.

Keep containerized trees well watered, especially during the hot days of summer.

* In-ground planting: If you want the tree to be a part of the landscape, keep in mind that many pine trees grow very large. Find a sunny spot with plenty of room.

* Armstrong Garden Centers are throughout Orange County. Call (800) 557-5268 or visit http://www.armstronggarden.com.

* M & M Nursery, in Orange, (714) 538-8042 or http://www.mmnursery.com.

Holly berries are also attractive to birds, said Steve Hutton, president of Conard-Pyle Co., a West Grove, Pa., wholesale nursery that specializes in holly.

“Contrary to popular opinion, no part of holly is poisonous,” Hutton said. “It is a perfectly safe plant to have in the garden.”

Conard-Pyle Co. grows a variety of holly plants, including an eye-catching yellow-berried form known as “Golden Girl.” Because it requires a pollinizer, you will need a male variety that flowers at the same time to get berries.

The company also produces the Berri-Magic holly. This is a combination of two hollies, which ensures cross-pollination. The female of this duo produces fire engine-red fruit. The plant reaches 6 to 8 feet high and wide. “Dazzler” produces many large, bright-red berries and has rich green, glossy foliage.

Another popular holly is “Willowleaf,” which grows larger than most cornutas–reaching 15 feet or higher. It has dense lateral branches and long, narrow, shiny, dark-green leaves with a slight twist to them. The abundant berries are blood red in color.

I. cornuta “Berries Jubilee” is also popular. It tends to grow like a hedge, reaching 4 to 6 feet tall and wide. The huge, cardinal-red berries appear even on young plants.

Some cornuta hollies don’t produce berries. Make sure the type you are considering does fruit.

To have luck growing holly, keep the following tips in mind:

* Plant in full sun.

* Provide good drainage. Hollies will grow in just about any soil but don’t like it wet. In heavy clay, amend with perlite or pumice. Plant holly on a slight mound.

* When planting in a container, use an azalea and camellia mix.

* Keep hollies moist but not soggy. Once established (in about two years), they become drought tolerant.

* Feed on a regular basis with an organic fertilizer such as a 10-6-4 or an acid-based liquid fertilizer designed for camellias and azaleas.

* Watch for pests. In our mild climate, scale–small bumps attached to the stems–can be a problem, Proud said. If your holly looks sickly, look closely for scale. They are different colors and some are easily camouflaged.

* Hollies generally flower in springtime, then fruit, but the fruit doesn’t ripen until late fall. Leaves and berries can be cut for holiday decorating, although young plants shouldn’t be stripped, as this could adversely affect future growth.

* Hollies tend to become open and loose in form if not trimmed. Prune and shape in the spring before the weather gets hot.

Monrovia, (888) 752-6848.

Conard-Pyle Co., (800) 458-6559.

Chrysanthemum

Cyclamen

Delphinium

English primrose

Foxglove

Fuchsia

Geranium

Iceland poppy

Impatiens

Flowering kale

Kalanchoe

Larkspur

Lupine

Nasturtium

Nemesia

Pansy

Poinsettia

Salvia

Schizanthus

Snapdragon

Society garlic

Stock

Sweet pea

Sweet violet

Viola

Wildflowers

VEGETABLES & HERBS

Arugula

Asparagus

Beet

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrot

Cauliflower

Celery

Cilantro

Collards

Cress

Dill

Endive

Garlic

Horseradish

Kale

Kohlrabi

Leek

Lettuce

Mint

Mustard greens

Onion

Parsley

Parsnip

Pea

Potato

Radish

Rhubarb

Rutabaga

Salsify

Spinach

Strawberry

Swiss chard

Turnip

TREES and SHRUBS

Australian fuchsia

Australian tea tree

Azalea

Blue hibiscus

Camellia (Sasanqua variety)

Cape mallow

Flowering maple

Holly

Westringia

BULBS and TUBERS

Allium

Anemone

Amaryllis

Calla lily

Crocus (prechilled eight weeks)

Daffodil

Dutch iris

Freesia

Gladiolus

Grape hyacinth

Hyacinth (prechilled eight weeks)

Lily

Muscari

Narcissus

Ranunculus

Tulip (prechilled eight weeks)

“It’s fun to watch their garden grow and mature,” she said.

Where lawn care services generally just “mow and blow,” gardening maintenance companies keep gardens looking their best by mulching, weeding, pruning, trimming and dead-heading. They do general cleanup and care, fertilizing and pest control, and perform upkeep of irrigation, drainage and lighting systems. Many will prepare soil and do plantings.

“They provide that extra care that the homeowner would give the garden if he or she had the time,” said Steve Kawaratani, owner of Landscapes by Laguna Nursery in Laguna Beach, which does garden maintenance, installation and design.

Finding a good gardener is a difficult task, said horticulturist and landscape designer Patti Ferner of Pacific Wind Landscape in Lake Forest, who has done garden maintenance over the years.

“If you find one who provides your plants with that extra TLC, such as washing leaves, dead-heading and checking for pests and disease, hold onto that person.”

Homeowner Michaels is doing just that with Nick Sutcliffe, owner of English Gardens in Orange.

“I knew he was the gardener for me because he immediately went to my yucca and started pulling off dead leaves,” said Michaels, who says she values a “clean” look. “His employees get down on their knees and clean out my flower beds. That’s the kind of detailed work that makes my garden look really good.”

Because of their training and the specialized nature of their work, garden landscape maintenance companies charge higher rates than companies that mow and edge lawns.

In general, they earn from $35 to $55 per hour. For an average-size yard, you can spend $150 to $350 or more per month, depending on the maintenance required.

Some customers pay for a consultation from a maintenance company to determine what is needed in their garden, then do it themselves or have their existing gardener do it.

Hunt provides consultations, which include detailed, written instructions about what needs to be done. She also trains gardeners to properly maintain a landscape.

Helen Magruder of Corona del Mar has worked with her gardener for 15 years, and although it’s often been a case of trial and error, she feels that they have developed a good relationship.

“Angel [Gonzales] is dependable and loyal, and we have mutual respect for one another,” Magruder said. “He takes pride in his work, listens when I have suggestions and has his own input for making the garden better. He does many things that I wouldn’t be able to do myself, such as irrigation and drainage.”

Experts offer these suggestions:

* Don’t let anyone prune, plant or do pest control if you’re not sure he knows what he’s doing, Hunt said.

“Trees that are improperly pruned, for instance, can die or may never look the same, and over-fertilizing can cause a lot of problems in the landscape,” she said.

* When you add new chores to your existing gardener’s list, be specific. Showing pictures of how you want your plants to look can also be helpful.

* Don’t be surprised by resistance or even refusal. Some lawn-care companies prefer to concentrate on mowing and edging. Consider leaving the lawn to them and hiring a landscape maintenance business to do more detailed work.

* Jungle Julie Landscape Solutions, (949) 830-9555,http://www.junglejulie.com.

* English Gardens, (714) 870-0260.

* Landscapes by Laguna Nursery, (949) 497-2438.

* Pacific Wind Landscape, (949) 689-8355.

Canna

Campanula

Canterbury bell

Carnation

Chrysanthemum

Cyclamen

Delphinium

English primrose

Felicia

Foxglove

Geranium

Iceland poppy

Impatiens

Japanese anemone

Lilac

Lantana

Nasturtium

Pansy

Penstemon

Portulaca

Rudbeckia

Scabiosa

Schizanthus

Shasta daisy

Snapdragon

Stock

Succulent

Viola

Sweet violet

Sweet William

*

VEGETABLES

Artichoke

Arugula

Asparagus

Beet

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrot

Cauliflower

Celery

Collards

Endive

Garlic

Horseradish

Kale

Kohlrabi

Leek

Lettuce

Mustard greens

Onion

Oriental greens

Parsnip

Pea

Potato

Radish

Rhubarb

Rutabaga

Salsify

Shallot

Spinach

Swiss chard

Turnip

*

HERBS

Bay laurel

Chamomile

Chervil

Chive

Cilantro

Comfrey

Dill

Fennel

Lavender

Mint

Oregano

Parsley

Rosemary

Sage

Thyme

*

BULBS and TUBERS

Anemone

Babiana

Bearded iris

Freesia

Homeria

Lily

Ranunculus

Sparaxis

Tritonia

Watsonia

Another common problem is chlorosis in citrus.

Though this is actually due to iron deficiency in the plant, it’s not always a lack of iron in the soil that leads to it. The soil may be too alkaline, and iron is best absorbed in acidic soils.

Other important nutrients such as calcium, magnesium and nitrogen can also be tied up if pH isn’t correct.

Soil pH can also have an effect on the activity of soil microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria. A pH reading that is too high or low will lead to a loss of these microorganisms, which will result in a less healthy soil overall.

In addition, pH affects the solubility and potency of certain toxic chemicals, such as aluminum, which can be taken up by plants if the pH is off.

Burn in plants is another by-product of a pH problem, added Joe Sweazy, technical services associate with Environmental Test Systems Inc., in Elkhart, Ind., which carries Accugrow soil-testing kits.

“A lot of people will look at tip burn and think lack of water or overfertilizing, but it could be the pH,” he said.

Soil pH is a scale of acidity-alkalinity that ranges from 0 to 14, with the most common levels found between 4 and 8. Seven is neutral.

Readings above 7 show alkalinity; readings below, acidity. In general, most plants do best between 6 and 6.5. Some plants, such as azaleas, like more acidic conditions, and others, such as some California natives, require alkalinity.

Each full point up or down the scale represents a tenfold increase or decrease in the degree of soil acidity or alkalinity.

For example, a soil with a pH of 6 has 10 times more acid than one with a pH of 7 and one with a pH of 5 is 100 times more acidic than the 7 soil.

In Orange County, as with much of the western United States, soils are generally alkaline, Denman said.

“PH conditions between 7.1 and 8.5 are the rule, and higher readings are not uncommon,” he said. “This is because we don’t get enough rainfall, which is slightly acidic, to flush naturally occurring alkaline salts out of the soil.

“In areas of the country where rainfall is abundant, such as the Pacific Northwest and the East and Southeast, soil tends to be acidic.”

Testing Your Soil

Knowing that your soil is probably alkaline isn’t enough. Experts suggest testing your soil’s pH on a regular basis.

This is easily done with a testing kit or a meter.

Kits tend to be sufficient if you have a small yard and don’t plan on testing very often. Each kit can do multiple tests and costs $6 to $30, depending on the number of tests available and if it checks for additional soil components, such as nitrogen.

A pH meter, however, can be used indefinitely, requiring only occasional calibration. Experts suggest staying away from less expensive meters because they can be off by as much as 1.5 points. Accurate models generally cost $50 to $70.

No matter what you use, it’s important to take representative samples of the soil you’re testing.

Take three or four samples, two to six inches deep.

Tests are performed by mixing the soil with water. It’s important to use water that is neutral-pH or it will skew your results. Distilled water tends to be neutral. If you are unsure, check the water’s pH before testing.

Keep in mind that soil pH will change over the year, especially when soil temperature changes. It will also be different throughout your yard.

Areas near concrete, for instance, will tend to be more alkaline. Fertilizer will also alter the soil pH, as will water.

Tap water in Orange County tends to be alkaline.

Adjusting Your pH

If your pH needs adjusting, chances are you want to lower it. Generally, moving down a pH point (for instance from 7.5 to 6.5) is relatively easy, Haver said.

“Changing the pH by more than 1 point can be more challenging though,” he said.

If you have alkaline soil and want to grow top-form azaleas, which require constant low pH, consider growing them in containers with an acidic potting soil or replace the soil where you want to plant them with peat moss.

Use caution when applying sulfur during hot weather, as it can throw plants into shock. Denman suggests adding one-fourth of the recommended dose at one-week intervals.

Iris

Tree encroachment issues–whether it’s roots or branches–are a common problem in Orange County, said Fullerton consulting arborist, Alden Kelley, who serves as an expert witness in tree cases.

“We just live too close together and people either want or acquire . . . trees that are too big for their area and that inevitably encroach into their neighbor’s yard,” he said.

Although such situations can be resolved by the court system, most experts suggest that you work out tree encroachment issues with your neighbor so that you can avoid court.

“My advice is to compromise with your neighbor,” Stamen said. “If you’re having a problem, don’t cut before talking to your neighbor, because this will just escalate matters and it may lead to litigation.

“Approach your neighbor about the problem so that you can come to a solution you both agree on.”

Kelley agrees. “Those individuals who haven’t been through a trial have no idea what an emotional, costly grind that can be. If they can work out their differences peaceably, they’ll all be better off, including the tree in question.”

It’s a matter of subscribing to the good neighbor policy, said Henry Canales, supervisor of tree maintenance for Irvine.

“People will call me, ranting and raving, about cutting the branches and roots of their neighbor’s tree that are invading their property. Although the city can’t do anything about domestic disputes, I warn them that improper foliage or root pruning could kill the tree or make it vulnerable to wind throw and injure someone,” he said.

“I suggest that instead of cutting, they talk to their neighbor in a calm, rational manner. It’s such a simple concept, but one that people don’t often consider. Many of those callers will contact me a few days later and report that it worked.”

Before contacting a lawyer or sharpening your pruning tools, consider that your neighbor may be unaware that his or her tree is causing you a problem, said Lois Fox, executive vice president of Merit Property Management Inc., in Mission Viejo, which oversees 172 homeowners associations.

“Your neighbors aren’t in your yard and may not know what a tree is doing to your property,” she said. “My neighbor has a large ficus tree that was butting up against my home and lifting my roof, but she had no idea because she doesn’t have windows along that side of her house. When I told her the problem, she immediately had the tree trimmed.”

Most home gardeners aren’t equipped or experienced enough to prune trees properly, especially when it comes to root pruning, experts say. A specific amount needs to be pruned from the foliage at the same time roots are pruned, and root pruning needs to be done a certain distance from the trunk.

Canales suggests making the idea of hiring a professional more palatable to your neighbor by offering to help pay for the pruning and root barrier costs. “Corrective pruning is much less expensive than repairing inevitable damage to hardscape and property,” he said.

Randall Stamen, who has a self-published book, “California Arboriculture Law” (1997, $50), can be contacted at (909) 787-9788.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

Getting Control, Above and Below Ground

Japanese persimmon (Diospyros kaki)

* If the first letter goes unanswered, send a letter via certified mail that is more demanding, yet still courteous.

If you belong to a homeowners association and the tree encroachment violates provisions in the conditions, covenants and restrictions (CC&Rs) or breaks landscape standards within the rules and regulations handbook, mention this in the letter.

* If the second letter goes unanswered, approach your homeowners association about the problem or have an attorney write a letter for you.

At this point, attempt to have the neighbor agree to the assistance of a mediator or neutral third party.

* As a final recourse, hire a lawyer to represent you in a lawsuit.

Thomas McLaughlin, who co-owns McLaughlin Landscape Construction in San Clemente, and his wife, Lori, bought Mystic Gardens two years ago and added stone paths, ponds, stream beds and waterfalls.

“We made it a destination,” Thomas McLaughlin said. “People enjoy strolling through here.”

Creating an inviting nursery and having full-grown plants on display to help customers visualize how plants would look in their garden are keys to surviving in business, said general manager Ken McCausland, who worked at the location before the current owner revamped it.

* Mystic Gardens, 27401 Ortega Highway, San Juan Capistrano. (949) 488-0074.

Cucumber

Dill

Eggplant

Fennel

Feverfew

Lavender

Lemon balm

Lemon verbena

Melon

Mint

New Zealand spinach

Okra

Onion

Oregano

Parsley

Pepper

Pumpkin

Radish

Rosemary

Squash

Summer savory

Sweet marjoram

Swiss chard

Thyme

Tomatillo

Tomato

Winter squash

Ageratum

Alyssum

Armeria

Aster

Bacopa

Begonia

Blue flax

Cactus

Campanula

Canna

Celosia

Coleus

Coreopsis

Cosmos

Dahlia

Dianthus

Echinacea

Euphorbia

Gaillardia

Gazania

Geranium

Ginger

Heliotrope

Impatiens

Lavender

Lisianthus

Lobelia

Love-in-a-puff

Love-in-a-mist

Mallow

Marigold

Million bells

Nasturtium

Nicotiana

Penstemon

Petunia

Portulaca

Salvia

Scaevola

Snow-in-Summer

Society garlic

Statice

Succulents

Sunflower

Verbena

Vinca

Yarrow

Zinnia

TREES, SHRUBS AND VINES

Banana

Bougainvillea

Brugmansia

Buddleia

Chinese lantern

Hibiscus

Mandevilla

Moonflower

Morning glory

Palm

Papaya

Passion vine

Plumeria

Rose

Aliso Viejo is nestled between Laguna Beach and Laguna Hills. The community is also buffered on the east and west by Aliso/Wood Canyons Regional Park, 3,200 acres of wilderness greenbelt that is part of the Laguna Coast Wilderness Park.

That open space, as well as friendly neighbors, affordability, proximity to the beach and the design of new homes draw many young families to the area, said Tom Steinhoff, an agent with Summit Real Estate Group, which has offices in Laguna Niguel and Monarch Beach.

“Because of Aliso Viejo’s design, it doesn’t appear to be crowded, and there are a lot of amenities [multiscreen movie theater, ice rink] for people with young families,” he said.

The community, which is served by the Capistrano Unified School District, has three elementary schools, a middle and high school.

Despite the added expense of Mello-Roos taxes [which pay for some of the infrastructure in the community) and homeowner association dues in Aliso Viejo, many buyers find that the community fits their budgets better than nearby beach cities would.

“Although I love Laguna Beach, I found the homes in Aliso Viejo to be more affordable,” said Renato Giordano, a vice president of an engineering company, who moved into the area in February 1998, buying a 1,800-square-foot, three-bedroom, 2 1/2-bath house for $175,000.

“I was also very pleased with the solid workmanship of my home and the design, which provides a lot of privacy, despite close proximity to my neighbors.”

The typical home in Aliso Viejo sells for about $275,000 for a 2,000-square-foot three- or four-bedroom, 2 1/2-bath, single detached home, Steinhoff said.

From High-End Homes to Apartments

On the high end of the market are homes with five bedrooms and three baths in 3,500 square feet with a view of hills and city lights for $550,000. On the less expensive end, there are 1,200- to 1,300-square-foot condos and townhomes with two bedrooms and 2 1/2 baths selling for $130,000 to $160,000.

The area also has apartment complexes with one- to two-bedroom units renting for $900 to $1,300 a month.

Mark Mednick was drawn to Aliso Viejo in 1991 by the design and affordability of his home and its location near a greenbelt and close to the ocean.

“Our place has a lot of windows, so it’s bright and airy, and we’re next to the greenbelt, so you can see a lot of trees,” he said.

Since he moved in more than eight years ago, Mednick notes how quickly the area has grown. “There wasn’t a whole lot here when I moved in, but now we’ve got just about everything you would need, including supermarkets and restaurants,” he said. “It’s not really necessary to leave town.”

Self-Containment Was Original Goal

Creating a self-contained community was the original intention of Aliso Viejo’s developers, said Chuck Shoemaker, Orange County chief of site planning.

“The developers planned a balanced community with a diverse mix of housing as well as commercial facilities and employment opportunities.

“In many ways, they have met their goals. The area has a good mix of housing types, and there are plenty of retail stores and restaurants,” Shoemaker said.

“As for jobs within the community, there aren’t as many as developers would have liked, but there are employment opportunities, thanks to a variety of businesses moving into the area.”

Aliso Viejo has grown so much–to 38,000–that residents recently signed a petition to make the area the county’s 34th city. Plans are underway to put the issue on the November ballot.

The cityhood issue is now being studied by the Local Agency Formation Commission.

Dickey is president of the Aliso Viejo Community Assn., which oversees maintenance of the parks and landscaping and provides recreation services. He is also chairman of the Aliso Viejo Advisory Planning Committee.

The standards look good on their own, while the semi-miniatures and miniatures often make eye-catching groupings, said Pat Gosnell, owner of Regal Flowers in Orange, which carries a variety of African violets.

“African violets are versatile plants that are small enough to brighten just about any area of the home,” she said.

The secret to getting African violets to look their best and re-bloom is to give them the right growing conditions, Gosnell said. “If your African violet hasn’t flowered in awhile, then there is a reason,” she said. “Make some adjustments and you should get plenty of blooms.”

Watering

It’s important not to over-water your African violet. Between waterings, let the surface of the soil dry out. Always water from the bottom, because getting water on the leaves will cause them to spot and rot. Use water that is room temperature or slightly warmer, as cold water can also cause leaf spot or may prevent the plant from developing new buds. After watering, drain away any excess water in the saucer within an hour.

Some African violet growers choose to use a wick irrigation system. This involves a wick that sits in a water reservoir below the plant that is threaded up through the bottom of the pot. The wick continually draws on the water reservoir, transporting just the right amount of water to the plant and never wetting the foliage.

A wick system can be found at nurseries, or you can make your own, said Anaheim gardener Irmi Bullinger, who is a member of the Tustana African Violet Society, which meets in Orange.

For a wick, Bullinger uses acrylic yarn or No. 18 nylon cord found at hardware and home supply stores. She creates a water reservoir underneath the pot in a separate container.

One end of the wick goes into the water and the other is threaded through a drainage hole in the bottom of the pot.

Lighting

African violets like bright, indirect light. Provide eight to 12 hours of sunlight or artificial light per day. While sufficient light is important for blooming, make sure the sunlight isn’t too bright or it will burn leaves.

If you’ll be placing African violet on a windowsill in a southern or western exposure, make sure that the plant is protected by sheer curtains or adjustable blinds. Rotate the plant on a regular basis so that all sides get equal amounts of light.

Fertilizing

Keep African violets blooming by adding a quarter-strength solution of fertilizer every time you water or add the food to the water reservoir if you have a wick system. Use an all-purpose, well-balanced food such as a 20-20-20.

Temperature, Humidity

African violets prefer an even temperature of 65 to 75 degrees, which generally isn’t a problem in most homes. They also like humid conditions, as long as the leaves aren’t wet. The best way to provide humidity is to stand the pot in a dish of moist gravel, pebbles or marbles. Make sure the bottom of the plant pot does not come in contact with water.

When to Repot

African violets actually need to be pot bound before they will flower. In general, the pot size should be one-third the diameter of the plant. If your plant is 9 inches across, use a 3-inch pot.

If you put an African violet into a pot that is too big, it will probably stop blooming. Repot only when the pot size becomes smaller than one-third of the diameter of the plant. At that point you will probably see roots coming out of the drainage holes and the plant will have become very leafy and will probably not be blooming well.

* Flowers from seed or starter plants

Alyssum

Bachelor’s button

Bromeliad

Cactus

Calendula

California poppy

Candytuft

Carnation

Chrysanthemum

Cyclamen

Delphinium

English primrose

Foxglove

Fuchsia

Geranium

Iceland poppy

Impatiens

Flowering kale

Kalanchoe

Larkspur

Lupine

Nasturtium

Nemesia

Pansy

Salvia

Schizanthus

Snapdragon

Stock

Succulent

Sweet pea

Viola

Wildflowers

* Vegetables

and herbs

Arugula

Beet

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrot

Cauliflower

Celery

Cilantro

Collards

Cress

Dill

Endive

Garlic

Kale

Kohlrabi

Leek

Lettuce

Mint

Mustard greens

Onion

Parsley

Parsnip

Pea

Potato

Radish

Rhubarb

Rutabaga

Salsify

Spinach

Swiss chard

Turnip

* Trees and shrubs

Azalea

Boronia

Camellia

Euryops

Montanoa

grandiflora

* Bare-root plants

Artichoke

Asparagus

Berries

Grape

Flowering trees

Fruit trees

Rose

Shade trees

Strawberry

At times his journal has even calmed worries about plants that seem to be ailing.

“Two winters ago I wrote about my pentas and how after a couple of months of cold, it collapsed but came back again in June,” he says. “Last year when it started looking bad in winter, I was comforted to read that the same thing had happened the previous year.”

Don’t let a garden journal intimidate you.

“Keep the journal simple; it doesn’t have to be anything fancy,” says Putnam. “My first is just an old composition book, which I find charming. My second is also simple, although it has a garden-related cover.”

Your notations don’t have to be long. Just a brief note about the weather in January and whether the camellias are flowering will give you important information in years to come. Notes on rainfall–or lack of it–are also useful, as well as when frost hits and what kind of damage the Santa Ana winds wreak on tender plants.

Some things to include in your garden journal:

* Vital statistics on plants you’re growing, including height, spread, foliage characteristics, flower color and blooming season.

* Information on plants seen in other gardens that you want to grow and tips from other gardeners on growing them.

* Notes from garden books and lectures.

* Information on work you’ve done in the garden, including planting, seeding, fertilizing, mulching and pruning.

* Garden tasks that you want to accomplish.

* Comments on the weather and how plants are doing throughout the year.

* Diagrams of the garden or the garden of your dreams, including pictures of gardens you admire.

* Photos of your garden as it progresses.

* Virtually anything about the garden that pops into your mind on any given day, including a brief mention of how much you like a certain plant.

You can decorate gourds by woodburning, painting, carving, staining or dyeing. Or simply polish them to a bright sheen with shoe polish.

You can also give gourds another dimension by attaching items such as beads, netting, plant pieces, string and leather, which is what Everett does.

“I’m also a basket maker, so I like to embellish gourds with natural materials I find in the garden, like date stems, grapevines and dried leaves,” she says.

She interlaces such materials in holes that she drills around the top of the gourds.

Gourds lend themselves to autumn designs, says Nangnoi Thomas, owner of Thomas Farms, a gourd farm and mail-order company in Lindsay, Calif. “I woodburn fall leaf designs into gourds and then use a leather dye,” she says. She also decorates gourds with acrylic paint. Gourds come in many shapes and sizes, from 1-inch minis to huge basket gourds. And the gourd determines the final look. “Although you may have an idea of what you want to make before you start, the gourd will lead you in the direction that you should go with it,” says Everett.

Gourd crafting isn’t new. Hard-shell gourds (Lagenaria) have been used for thousands of years as storage vessels, utensils, dishes, water and seed containers, vases and musical instruments. And they have been adorned with designs and patterns.

“Another great thing about crafting with them is the connection to the past that it gives you,” says Everett.

“Gourds are something that nature has provided for centuries, and this gives you a chance to carry on the tradition.”

Where to Get Gourds

The shiny, often bumpy gourds you see in the stores this time of year are ornamental gourds, which tend to have a thin shell and generally aren’t used for gourd crafting. You want hard-shell Lagenaria gourds, which can be grown in your garden or bought at gourd farms, where you’ll find different shapes and sizes.

Gourds that were grown this summer and harvested recently won’t be ready for decorating for two to six months, when they are dry.

If you want to try gourd crafting sooner, contact one of the following gourd farms and choose from last year’s stock. Most gourd farms offer mail-order.

Gourds generally range in price from $1.25 to $4 a piece, with very large gourds costing up to $30.

* Thomas Farms, 20947–B Avenue 245, Lindsay, (559) 562-9640. Mail-order and craft classes. They carry a variety of gourds, books and gourd crafting supplies and patterns.

* Welburn Gourd Farm, 40787 De Luz Murrieta Road, Fallbrook; (760) 728-0269, (760) 728-4271. www@welburngourdfarm.com. Mail-order.

* Rocky Ford Gourd, P.O. Box 222, Cygnet, OH; (419) 655-2152. Mail-order. Specializes in seeds, but some gourds are available. Seeds $2.50 a package.

* “Gourds in Your Garden,” by Ginger Summit (Hillway Press, 1997, $19.95) explains how to grow your own gourds.

Preparing Gourds

Gourds must be completely dry before they can be crafted. “You know a gourd is dry when the seeds rattle or the pulp thuds against the gourd’s interior,” says Doug Welburn, co-owner of Welburn Gourd Farm in Fallbrook. “Gourds ordered from a gourd farm now are from last year’s crop and will be ready for crafting.”

If you grew gourds this summer, you will need to wait until spring for them to dry for crafting.

As they dry, gourds become covered with a black mold. This must be removed before crafting. Follow these steps:

* Soak the gourd in warm water for up to 15 minutes, then scrub off the mold with a metal or plastic kitchen scrub pad. For many projects, the gourd is now ready to be cut and decorated, although you may also want to go over the shell with very fine wet/dry sandpaper to remove any blemish or rough spot.

* Cut the gourd shell to clean the interior. This can often be done with a sharp, sturdy kitchen knife. Most tools designed for woodworking are also suitable for gourd craft, such as a small keyhole or hobby saw, or a power saw. Before cutting, mark the line where you want to cut and stabilize the gourd on a foam pad or other soft surface.

* Remove the gourd top and pull out all the loose pulp and seeds. Save the seeds for planting in the spring.

Scrape out the pulp that is stuck on the interior of the shell with a serrated utensil such as a grapefruit spoon. When the gourd interior is clean, file and sand the cut edge of the opening.

A word of caution: Some people are allergic to the dust created when cutting, cleaning and sanding gourds. Wear a mask, and only cut the gourd in a well-ventilated room or outdoors. Squirting the gourd’s interior with water as you work will also minimize dust.

Chrysanthemum

Cyclamen

Delphinium

English primrose

Forget-me-not

Foxglove

Geranium

Iceland poppy

Impatiens

Flowering kale

Lantana

Larkspur

Lupine

Nasturtium

Nemesia

Pansy

Scabiosa

Snapdragon

Schizanthus

Stock

Sweet pea

Sweet violet

Viola

Wildflowers

VEGETABLES

Artichoke

Arugula

Beet

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrot

Cauliflower

Celery

Collards

Cress

Endive

Garlic

Horseradish

Kale

Kohlrabi

Leek

Lettuce

Mustard greens

Onion

Parsnip

Pea

Potato

Radish

Rhubarb

Rutabaga

Salsify

Spinach

Strawberry

Swiss chard

Turnip

BULBS & TUBERS

Allium

Anemone

Calla lily

Crocus (chilled eight weeks)

Daffodil

Dutch iris

Freesia

Gladiolus

Grape hyacinth

Hyacinth (chilled eight weeks)

Lily

Muscari

Narcissus

Ranunculus

Scilla

Tulip (chilled eight weeks)

Watsonia

HERBS

Bay laurel

Chamomile

Chervil

Chive

Cilantro

Dill

Fennel

Mint

Oregano

Parsley

Rosemary

Sage

Salad burnet

Sweet marjoram

Winter savory

Thyme

Many exotic, invasive pests are hitchhiking or being smuggled in, agrees John Kabashima, the environmental horticultural advisor for the University of California Cooperative Extension at the South Coast Research and Extension Center in Irvine.

“Unfortunately, even people who are aware that it is illegal to smuggle fruit or plant material that can harbor pests often don’t appreciate or understand the long-term fiscal, biological and health significance of their actions,” he says.

Not only are exotic pests such as the giant whitefly irritating, some, like the Africanized honeybee and the red imported fire ant, pose major health threats. And they have negative economic ramifications.

One example is the Formosan subterranean termite, which is established in La Mesa near San Diego. According to the Center for Exotic Pest Research at UC Riverside, treatment of a single home that has been infested can cost more than $5,000.

The well-publicized Mediterranean fruit fly, which has been found in California for 25 years,

has cost millions to control. Should it ever become established here, the Center for Exotic Pest Research estimates that it will cost the state $1.4 billion a year.

Other hard-to-measure effects of exotic pest damage include the disruption of ecosystems and the negative effect on Southern California’s outdoor lifestyle.

Modern Transport Speeds the Invasion

Exotic pests aren’t a new phenomenon, says urban entomologist Michael Rust, director of the Center for Exotic Pest Research.

“The Argentine ant was first reported in California at the turn of the century, and many of our cockroaches came from other countries years ago,” he says. “The problem has become accelerated in recent years, though, because of globalization of the economy and the rapid movement of people and goods. Many of the insects that would never have gotten over here on a long sea voyage 100 years ago, make it on a 12-hour airplane flight.”

Says entomology professor Paine: “According to the California Department of Food and Agriculture, for the past 10 years, there has been an average of a new insect pest being introduced or established every 60 days. Some of them don’t become significant pests, but others go on to cause terrible damage.”

How can a small insect wreak so much havoc? Exotic pests become invasive for a number of reasons. They are able to quickly get a foothold here because they lack natural predators and parasites that regulate their populations in their native habitats.

“The plant diversity you see in our urban landscapes rivals what you see in tropical rain forests–the average gardener will have hundreds of species in a small area,” Paine says. “Add to that the fact that most of our gardens are well irrigated.”

The red imported fire ant would never survive in Southern California if it weren’t for urbanization and frequent irrigation, Rust says, because it is not a desert ant.

Exotic pests also do well because they can, in some instances, destroy native species.

“Many invasive pests eliminate native species, which has a dramatic impact on our vegetation,” says Rust. “This causes our native plants to have problems with pollination, fertilization and movement of seed.”

Biological control is not a quick fix, but scientists feel it is the only viable long-term solution. And when it works, it works well.

Until a natural enemy was introduced from South Africa in 1940, it was a severe pest. Unfortunately, this natural enemy does not suppress the scale on a consistent basis, so it remains a problem, infecting leaves, branches and, at high levels, decreasing fruit size and production.

* Eucalyptus longhorned borer: This borer, which was discovered in Orange County in 1984, is one of several pests that attack and kill eucalyptus trees. It causes a lot of destruction in its larval stage when it feeds on the tree’s tissue, cutting off the nutrient supply. Once an infestation is discovered, it is often too late to save the tree.

Removal of dead trees costs from $500 to $5,000, depending on size and location. Researchers are trying to control this pest by educating homeowners and landscapers on keeping trees healthy. They are also conducting studies on resistant eucalyptus species and establishing three species of parasites that attack borers.

* Formosan subterranean termite: This highly destructive termite commonly makes infested homes in Hawaii uninhabitable within two years. One colony can contain more than 1 million termites. Introduced more than 10 years ago from Hawaii, it has a strong foothold in San Diego. It is native to mainland China.

There are no consistently good controls for this insect. Researchers have done some baiting with an insect growth regulator that has shown some promise in a limited area.

* Giant whitefly: Scientists believe this destructive pest is native to Mexico. Thought to be one of the most serious landscape pests in California, it attacks more than 50 common ornamental plants, seriously damaging them by feeding on sap, which leads to defoliation, stunting and possible plant death.

Giant whiteflies reproduce rapidly and have been found in Texas, Louisiana and Florida. Several whitefly enemies, which are miniature wasps, have been discovered.

Researchers are evaluating the wasps in field trials in California, which include areas of Orange County. These natural predators show some promise, but the final results are not yet in.

* Mediterranean fruit fly: This infamous fruit fly was first found in Southern California in 1975 and as recently as 1998.

The medfly affects a huge range of plants, attacking at least 253 species of fruits, nuts and vegetables. The female flies deposit eggs underneath the skin of fruit, which produce maggots that make the fruit rot.

Researchers are studying the medfly’s behavior in Mediterranean countries for ideas on control and eradication.

* Red gum lerp psyllid: New on the scene is this Australian native, which has caused major damage to eucalyptus trees from Sacramento to San Diego. Originally detected in 1998 outside of the Agricultural Commissioner’s office in South El Monte, it spread throughout the state almost overnight.

This insect feeds on plant fluids, causing eucalyptus to lose their leaves, and can kill a tree if left untreated.

A researcher from UC Berkeley brought over six Australian parasites that are natural enemies of the psyllid. These will be evaluated over time for possible release.

In the meantime, researchers suggest creating conditions that are unfavorable to the psyllid, which include keeping eucalyptus well watered, but not overly wet. Also, don’t over-fertilize or overprune.

* Red imported fire ant: This dangerous South American insect is a major problem in the southern United States. The sting of this ant is painful and causes a pustule on the skin that can scar if infected. In rare cases, the sting is deadly.

In Texas, where it is firmly entrenched, more than $1.1 billion is spent annually on fire ant pesticides. They were detected in Orange County in 1998. Researchers are examining the behavior of these insects, especially in relationship to water (they’re attracted to irrigated areas) for clues to controlling their spread. Several insecticides are also being studied.

You can sprout a wide variety of dried beans, seeds and grains. Sprouting can be done in a wide-mouthed jar covered with cheesecloth or fine screen, or you can purchase a more sophisticated sprouter like the one produced by the seed company NK Lawn & Garden Co. based in Chattanooga, Tenn. It’s a three-tiered acrylic container that grows three types of sprouts at a time. Fill each tray with seeds, pour in water, and the kitchen sprouter–about $14–takes care of the rest.

When using the jar method, place the seeds inside, cover with water and let soak for up to 12 hours. Drain the jar upside down and leave it leaning to the side upside down, rinsing and draining once or twice a day until you have sprouts.

“It’s important not to leave the sprouts wet, because they will mold,” says Kidd, who also suggests keeping them out of direct sunlight.

Once sprouts appear, remove them from the jar or sprouter and use them as soon as possible, or to store them, line a plastic container with paper towels to dry them and place sprouts on top and cover.

If possible, Kidd suggests, use organic seeds and filtered water. At the very least, make certain that the seeds are untreated and packaged for sprouting. Don’t use seeds from the nursery meant for growing plants.

Where to Find Sprouts

Sprouting seeds are becoming easier to find. Some nurseries, as well as some large chain stores, health food stores and grocery stores, carry them. You can also find them through mail-order plant catalogs.

Bean sprouts can be grown from dried, bagged organic beans.

* R&R Sprouts are at the Fullerton Certified Farmers’ Market every Wednesday from 8:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 450 W. Orangethorpe Ave. (in Woodcrest Park). The products can also be found at Mother’s Market & Kitchen stores in Irvine, Costa Mesa and Huntington Beach, and Trader Joes stores. (562) 906-0847.

* NK Lawn and Garden’s sprouter and sprouting seeds can be found at many Armstrong Garden Centers, Wal-Marts and Homebase stores. (800) 517-1151, Ext. 2989.

* Johnny’s Selected Seeds carries a variety of sprouting seeds and a sprouter, (207) 437-4301. They also carry the book “Sprouts, The Miracle Food,” by Steve Meyerowitz, $12.95.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

Just Add Water

Sprouts are versatile and come in a wide variety. The following types vary in flavor, uses and germination time. The soaking times listed are recommended. Many can be soaked overnight up to 12 hours with good results.

* Adzuki. This easy sprouter is popular in Asian dishes, salads, sandwiches and casseroles. Also rich in protein, iron and calcium. Soak 12 hours; ready in three to five days.

* Alfalfa. Great in salads, sandwiches, juices, soups and dressings, this nutty-flavored sprout is a complete protein loaded with vitamins and minerals. Soak four to six hours; ready in four to five days. Place in light to develop chlorophyll one to two days before harvest.

* Broccoli. The faint peppery taste of this sprout makes it perfect for salads, sandwiches and snacking. Soak 12 hours; ready in six days.

* Chick pea/garbanzo. A complete protein and full of minerals, this is a popular sprout for dips and spreads such as hummus, casseroles, salads and breads. Soak for 12 hours, ready in two to three days.

* Radish. These sprouts have a sharp, spicy flavor that is good in salads, sandwiches, Mexican-style food, soups and dressings. They are high in potassium and vitamin C. Soak four to six hours; ready in four to five days.

* Heliotrope: This evergreen perennial blooms most of the year. The flowers have a sweet vanilla scent, especially the white variety. All parts are poisonous.

* Jasmine: Several varieties of jasmine make especially fragrant additions to the garden, including pink jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum), which blooms in the spring and early summer. Star jasmine (Trachelospermum), which is really not a jasmine, blooms in spring.

Also not a real jasmine is night jessamine (Cestrum nocturnum). It blooms during the late summer and fall. Stephanotis floribunda, commonly called Madagascar jasmine, has funnel-shaped, white waxy fragrant flowers that bloom throughout the summer.

* Lavender: This popular herb is known for its intoxicating scent that is said to calm nerves. Both flowers and leaves are fragrant. There are many varieties to choose from; one of the most aromatic is English lavender. Most lavenders bloom from spring into fall.

* Lilac: Although this is a common fragrant flowering shrub in other parts of the country, it has traditionally been difficult to grow here because of the mild winters. Two newer lilac varieties said to grow well here are ‘Blue Skies’ and ‘Lavender Lady.’

* Michelia tree: There are several varieties of this tree. M. champaca, which grows 25 to 30 feet, has small orange, highly aromatic flowers that bloom most of the year; heaviest in winter and summer. ‘Jack Fogg’ is shorter at 18 feet with large white fragrant flowers and blooms through the spring. The banana shrub (M. figo) blooms from March through May with yellowish-purple, banana-scented flowers. It grows slowly, generally only reaching 4 to 8 feet.

* Moonflower (Ipomoea alba): A member of the morning glory family, this annual vine does not reseed readily like its cousin. It has pretty heart-shaped leaves and blooms during summer and fall nights with large, white, highly fragrant flowers.

* Nicotiana: This summer-blooming tender perennial grown as an annual, has tubular flowers in a variety of colors that open at night and release a memorable fragrance. Some reseed readily. Use caution: All parts are poisonous.

* Osmanthus fragrans: This evergreen shrub grows to 10 feet or more. Where space is limited, it can be pruned to upright growth. It can also be trained as a small tree. Although the plant’s flowers are white and inconspicuous, their sweet apricot-like scent is very strong. Blooms heaviest during spring and summer but will flower sporadically throughout the year when winters are mild.

* Roses: No aromatic garden would be complete without these fragrant favorites. Use caution when choosing roses, however: Some of the newer hybrids have very little, if any scent. Although many miniature roses do not smell, there are several on the market with an aroma.

* Sweet peas: Now is the time to plant these sweet-scented annual flowers that will bloom from winter into spring. They come in bush types and climbers and can be planted from seed in containers or the ground. Just be cautious: They are highly poisonous.

Essential oils are perceived differently by everyone, which is why a scent may be delightful to one person and repellent to another.

Not all flowers or plants smell. “White and pastel blooms are the most fragrant, and pale pinks are the most potent pastels,” Bloome says. “The darker a flower gets, the less fragrance it will have. Dramatic colored flowers such as orange and crimson may be dramatic in the garden, but they have little or no fragrance.”

Fragrant flowers produce scent to attract pollinators such as bees and discourage pests; non-fragrant flowers use color and shape to do so.

To create a fragrant garden, keep the following in mind:

* Plan a garden that is fragrant year-round. “If you time things right, you can have nice scents in the garden all year,” says Alex Reynolds, a nursery professional at Kitano’s Garden Center in La Palma.

There is a fragrant plant for almost every month, he says. “For instance, star jasmine blooms in spring, while plumeria flowers in summer and fall. There are also ever-blooming plants that smell great most of the year, like many gardenias.”

* Consider the time of day. “Some plants, like night-blooming jessamine, have virtually no scent during daylight,” Bloome says. “During the day you could enjoy the scent of another summer and fall bloomer like lavender; once night falls the jessamine can take over.”

Nicotiana is another night-blooming flower, as well as the aptly named annual moonflower, which smells so nice on late summer and fall nights.

* Avoid combining multiple scents. “You lose out if you mix too many scents at once,” says Jeff Nakasone, general manager of Certified Plant Growers in Norwalk, a wholesale grower and supplier to local independent nurseries. “Some fragrant plants don’t mix well, and others just overpower everything else,” he says.

* Put fragrant plants in high-traffic areas where the odor will be most appreciated, such as in walkways and near windows.

* Consider more than flowers for aroma. Leaves, fruit, bark, roots, seed pods, buds and stems can also produce a wonderful array of scents. “Many plants have aromatic foliage that will scent the air when a leaf is crushed or brushed,” Bloome says.

Place herbal ground covers, such as thyme and mint, in pathways. Other small plants that release an aroma when brushed include rosemary, lavender and scented geraniums.

* Put fragrant plants near nose level. “No one wants to put their heads to the ground to smell more subtly fragrant plants like alyssum and heliotrope,” Nakasone says. “When possible, put mild-smelling plants in containers at an elevation.” Most shrubs and vines generally grow high enough to easily be appreciated for their fragrance.

* To find a nursery in your area that carries the Monrovia fragrant collection, call (888) Plant It.

* For information from Kitano’s Garden Center telephone (714) 521-2772.