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Impatiens: Made in the Shade

If You’re Thinking Pink, a New Collection of the Popular Bedding Plants is Available to Brighten Your Garden

They’re the best-selling bedding plant, and they show no signs of waning in their popularity. Though you see impatiens (I. wallerana) often, it’s hard to tire of their cheerful, colorful flowers and rich green foliage.

Shade-lovers, impatiens light up dark corners where most flowers would falter. They grow readily in beds, containers, and hanging baskets.

Perhaps best of all, impatiens tend to bloom just about year-round in Southern California’s mild climate, says Keith Muraoka at Goldsmith Seeds, a Gilroy wholesale hybridizer and distributor of bedding plants.

This summer, Goldsmith is selling an exclusive blend of pink impatiens known as the Accent Miracle Collection. All participating retailers selling these impatiens are donating a minimum of 10% of the proceeds to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation.

There are impatiens in single and double-flower forms. The double flowers look like miniature roses, but they tend not to flower as much as the single flower forms, which create continuous masses of vibrant color.

Impatiens in shades of red, pink, white, lavender, violet, and orange

Impatiens Growing Tips

Keep the following tips in mind when growing impatiens:

  • Light: They need full shade to partial sun. Along the coast, they can be planted in some sun. Inland, they need almost a full day of shade.
  • Soil: Place in-ground plants in rich, well-draining soil. Amend clay soil by 50% with homemade or bagged compost. For containerized impatiens, plant in a potting mix heavy on peat moss (two-thirds potting soil, one-third peat moss).
  • Watering: Never let impatiens dry out between waterings, but don’t keep them constantly soggy. Water when the first inch of soil is approaching dryness.
  • Fertilizing: Keep the plants bushy and healthy by fertilizing every two to four weeks with a well-balanced fertilizer.
  • Propagation: Impatiens can be grown from established plants, seed, and cuttings. Seeds require high heat, while cuttings are easier to grow in warm weather. Keep them moist and protected while rooting.
  • Pests and Diseases: Once established, impatiens aren’t susceptible to pests and disease. However, they do freeze, so protect them when temperatures dip.
  • Pruning: When impatiens become leggy, cut them back to 6 inches. New growth will appear, and the plant will become fuller and flower more.
  • Winter Care: In December or January, when growth slows, cut impatiens to 2 inches from the ground to encourage strong growth in spring. Coastal impatiens will continue to flower year-round but can be pruned if they become leggy.

If they are unsightly after pruning, containerized impatiens can be moved to an out-of-the-way site. In-ground plants can be interplanted with winter bloomers such as pansies and begonias.

To find the Accent Miracle Collection of impatiens with sales benefiting the Komen Breast Cancer Foundation, visit miracleplants.com.

The Spice World Tour

Home-grown Zest: Growing Exotic Spices in O.C.

Think exotic spices can only be grown in sultry, tropical locales? Think again! The mild climate of Southern California is perfect for growing a variety of spices, from capers to curry, and some can even thrive as houseplants.

“Many people already grow herbs, so the next logical step is adding spices to the garden,” says Alex Silber, manager of Papaya Tree Nursery in Granada Hills. He will be displaying a number of spice plants at the Southern California Spring Garden Show at South Coast Plaza today and Sunday.

Ornamental and Flavorful Spice Plants

Many of these spice plants are also highly ornamental, according to landscape architect Shirley Kerins, curator of the herb garden at the Huntington Library Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino. Some of these plants are perfect for container gardens and patios.

Spice Plants You Can Grow

  • Allspice (Pimenta dioica): A versatile and aromatic evergreen plant, allspice thrives in Southern California and grows well in both full sun and partial shade. Its leaves, which have a flavor similar to cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves, can be used fresh or dried in cooking.
  • Caper Bush (Capparis spinosa): Known for its stunning white flowers and purple stamens, the caper bush is a low-growing shrub that’s perfect for cascading over walls or in containers. Its buds, when harvested, make for a flavorful addition to dishes.
  • Cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum): True cinnamon can be grown in Southern California in partial shade. The plant produces fragrant leaves and bark that can be harvested for culinary use. It’s a slow-growing bush that prefers well-drained soil and consistent moisture.
  • Coffee Bush (Coffea arabica): An evergreen plant that can grow up to 5 feet, the coffee bush is a great choice for patio plants. The coffee berries, which ripen from green to red, can be harvested and processed to make your own coffee beans.
  • Curry Leaf (Murraya koenigii): A lacy, evergreen tree that can grow up to 8 feet, curry leaf adds an authentic Indian flavor to dishes. It thrives in partial shade and well-draining soil, making it an ideal plant for many gardens.

Growing Tips for Spice Plants

  • Sunlight: Most spice plants prefer full sun to partial shade. Ensure they receive adequate sunlight for optimal growth.
  • Soil: Well-draining soil is essential for most spice plants. Consider amending your garden soil with peat moss or cactus mix to enhance drainage.
  • Watering: Water spice plants regularly, but avoid over-watering. Many of these plants are drought-tolerant once established, but they do require moisture during their growing season.
  • Fertilizing: Regular fertilization helps ensure healthy growth. Use an all-purpose fertilizer during the growing season and consider micronutrient fertilizers in winter.

Using Spice Plants in Cooking

Adding fresh spices to your cooking brings a new dimension to your meals. Tina Silber from Papaya Tree Nursery shares her recipe for an allspice and sweet potato dish:

“I add 10 fresh allspice leaves to 3 pounds of peeled and cubed sweet potatoes or yams, 1 cup of coconut milk, 8 ounces of pineapple cubes with juice, 2 ounces of water, and half a cup of sugar. I cook it uncovered in a 350-degree oven until the yams or sweet potatoes are al dente.”

For pickling capers, Silber suggests the following recipe:

“Add a cup of capers to 3 ounces of kosher salt and 2 tablespoons of water. Stir every day for 14 days, then rinse and pickle them in a vinegar solution.”

Conclusion

Whether you’re a gardener looking for new plants to try or a cook seeking fresh, flavorful ingredients, growing spices at home adds both beauty and flavor to your life. Start with easy-to-grow varieties like allspice, capers, and cinnamon, and enjoy the rewards of home-grown zest!

Alpine Strawberries Provide a Gourmet Treat

Growing Alpine Strawberries: A Gourmet Delicacy

It’s strawberry season! Time to plant and enjoy those bright red berries that remind us of summer. While you’re planting, why not try growing alpine strawberries? These small, tasty berries are considered a gourmet delicacy and are easy to grow, bearing fruit most of the year.

What Are Alpine Strawberries?

“Alpines [Fragaria alpina] are a great snacking berry,” says Sharon Kaszan, trials manager for W. Atlee Burpee & Co. in Warminster, Pa. “Alpine strawberries might be small, but there’s something about them that makes you keep coming back for more.” Kaszan describes the berries as slightly tart, with a flavor sometimes compared to a cross between raspberries and strawberries.

Types of Alpine Strawberries

Several varieties of alpine strawberries are available, including both red and yellow berries. The most commonly found red variety is ‘Baron von Solemacher,’ which grows particularly well from seed. Another popular variety is ‘Ruegen Improved,’ a type frequently found in European gardens, where alpines are a favored crop.

Alpine plants forming compact mounds with lush green foliage
Alpine plants form compact mounds of lush, green foliage, with starry white flowers on pert stems. They do well along borders and in containers.

Planting and Caring for Alpine Strawberries

April is the perfect time to plant alpine strawberries, either from plants or seeds. Follow these tips for successful growth:

  • Plant in Part-Shade: Choose a location that gets morning sun and afternoon shade.
  • Amend Clay Soil: If the soil is heavy in clay, mix in 25% to 50% compost (either homemade or bagged) to improve drainage.
  • Planting Depth: Make sure to plant the crown (the center mound where new growth originates) level with the surrounding soil. Planting too deep can cause rot, while planting too high will dry out the plant.
  • Use Quality Potting Soil: If planting in containers, use a high-quality potting soil with good drainage, such as one high in perlite or pumice.
  • Spacing: Plant alpines 3 to 4 inches apart for a dense, lush look.

Growing from Seed

Growing alpine strawberries from seed can be challenging, but it is possible. Here’s how:

  1. Cold Stratify the Seeds: Refrigerate the seeds for 5 to 7 days before planting.
  2. Planting: Sprinkle seeds on top of a seed-starting mixture and mist them well.
  3. Germination: Keep the seeds in a warm spot, such as a sunny window, until they sprout (typically in 2 weeks to a month). Keep them moist, but not overly wet.
  4. Post-Germination Care: Once the seeds have germinated, move them to a cooler location to prevent the growth of soil bacteria, which can kill young plants.

Watering and Fertilizing Alpine Strawberries

  • Watering: Water when the soil is approaching dryness, but avoid keeping the soil overly wet.
  • Fertilizing: Alpines are heavy feeders. Use a fertilizer high in phosphorus, such as a 10-30-10 formula, or bone meal. Feed container plants every two weeks and in-ground plants monthly. Fertilize seed-grown alpines once they have three true leaves using fish emulsion and seaweed or kelp extract.

Additional Tips for Alpine Strawberry Care

  • Heat Sensitivity: Alpine strawberries don’t produce well in hot weather. During heat spells, berries may become misshapen due to the heat damaging the pollen. Pinch off malformed berries to make room for better-shaped ones.

Where to Buy Alpine Strawberries

Alpine strawberries will be available soon at Mother’s Market health-food chain (locations include Huntington Beach, Costa Mesa, and Irvine) and at the Green Scene Garden Show on April 24-25 at the Fullerton Arboretum. Plants can also be purchased directly from W. Atlee Burpee & Co. (800-888-1447) or seeds from Bountiful Gardens (707-459-6410).

Please Eat the Daisies

Don’t Be a Shrinking Violet: Edible Flowers for a Colorful, Delicious Garden
February 20, 1999|JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Edible Flowers in the Classroom

When my daughter’s teacher asked me to do a gardening project with her second-grade class, I suggested edible flowers. Initially, my daughter, Sabrina, was doubtful. She thought the boys might not be interested because “flowers are a girl thing.” However, despite her concerns, the project went ahead, and the kids responded enthusiastically. The boys and girls had plenty of questions, and they eagerly planted edible flowers in their pots.

Exploring Edible Flowers

When it came time to sample their plantings, most kids dug in with gusto. Many loved the tangy zip of nasturtiums, while others preferred pansies and cheery Johnny-jump-ups. The taste of lavender and rosemary flowers varied, with some finding them delightful and others less keen.

Why Grow Edible Flowers?

Edible flowers not only beautify the garden, but they also offer a tasty and creative way to enhance your meals. According to Renee Shepherd, owner of Renee’s Garden Seeds, edible flowers combine the joys of ornamental gardening with practical culinary uses. Many edible flowers are easy to grow at home and can be found at local nurseries.

Popular Edible Flowers

Some flowers are more commonly known for their edible qualities, including:

  • Nasturtiums – peppery taste
  • Honeysuckle – sweet flavor
  • Roses – floral taste
  • Chive blossoms – sweet chive taste
  • Johnny-jump-ups and pansies – minty flavor
  • Dandelion flowers – honey-like taste

Other edible flowers include alyssum, anise hyssop, tuberous begonia, bougainvillea, camellias, chrysanthemums, hibiscus, marigold, petunias, and zinnias.

What to Avoid

It’s essential to only eat flowers that are properly identified as safe. Many common flowers, such as delphinium, foxglove, azalea, and sweet pea, are poisonous. Always ensure that the flowers you are consuming are free of pesticides.

Ways to Use Edible Flowers

Edible flowers can be used in a variety of dishes:

  • Mixed into salads for a colorful touch
  • Added to sandwiches, potato salad, or macaroni salad
  • Used in dessert decoration, such as cakes, pastries, and tarts
  • Blended into tea or salad dressings
  • Frozen into ice cubes for refreshing drinks
  • Incorporated into sorbets, jams, and syrups

Chef Stefano Colaiacomo from L’Opera, Alegria, and Madison restaurants in Long Beach highlights the versatility of edible flowers in cooking. He often serves a mixed edible flower salad and uses rose petals in sorbet and risotto.

Harvesting and Storing Edible Flowers

For best results, harvest edible flowers in the morning before the heat of the day wilts them. Select flowers in full bloom but not past their prime. If you’re not using them immediately, store them in water and refrigerate.

Before serving or cooking, wash flowers gently under cold water and shake dry. Remove any green parts, including the stamens and pistils, as they can be bitter.

Finding Flowers With Flair

Want a Hard-to-Find Variety? These Nurseries Can Deliver

January 23, 1999
|JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS | SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Garden long enough, and you may tire of common flowers and gravitate toward the unique and unusual. While local nurseries occasionally offer offbeat flowers, they often lack the space to consistently carry a wide variety.

Mail-order catalogs, however, present an exciting world of plants with captivating blossoms in every color and shape, many you may have never imagined. The challenge will be choosing which to grace your garden.

Here are eight mail-order companies offering a selection of unusual and often hard-to-find flowers:

Canyon Creek Nursery

Address: 3527 Dry Creek Road, Oroville, CA 95965

Phone: (530) 533-2166 | Catalog: $2

This family-operated nursery offers a variety of uncommon perennial flowers, including:

  • Abutilon ‘Victorian Lady’: A double-flowered variety with soft pink petals, possibly a reintroduction of an 1800s cultivar.
  • Yarrow ‘Moonshine’: Bright lemon-yellow flowers and silvery foliage, growing to more than 2 feet high.
  • Ornamental Oregano ‘Kent Beauty’: Trailing stems with light green bracts tinged with pink, great for dried arrangements.

Digging Dog Nursery

Address: P.O. Box 471, Albion, CA 95410

Phone: (707) 937-1130 | Catalog: $3.50

Another family-run business with many unusual flowers, including:

  • Rock Jasmine (Androsace lanuginosa): Drought-tolerant, woolly silver-green leaves and cascading clusters of pink and white flowers.
  • Campanula ‘Elizabeth Rose’: Rosy-purple bell-shaped flowers with white and purple-spotted throats.
  • Jerusalem Sage (Phlomis): Tubular flowers in purple, pink, yellow, or white; ideal for dry, sunny spots.

High Country Gardens

Address: 2902 Rufina St., Santa Fe, NM 85705

Phone: (800) 925-9387 | Catalog: Free

This nursery specializes in drought-tolerant plants, including:

  • Veronica ‘Blue Reflection’: A hybrid with profuse true blue flowers.
  • Salvia ‘May Night’: Deep-purple flower spikes that bloom continually if dead-headed.
  • Oenothera ‘Missouri Evening’: Yellow flowers that open each afternoon, cascading well over rocks.

The Natural Gardening Co.

Address: 217 San Anselmo Ave., San Anselmo, CA 94960

Phone: (707) 766-9303 | Catalog: Free

This Northern California nursery offers a variety of unusual flowering plants, including:

  • Columbine ‘Nora Barlow’: A double flower, pink with white tips, perfect for bouquets.
  • French Lavender: Blooms longer than most lavenders, with narrow, gray-green leaves and lavender-purple flowers.
  • Morning Glory ‘Blue Star’: Large 5-inch flowers with sky-blue stripes and a soft lemon-yellow throat.

Shepherd’s Garden Seeds

Address: 30 Irene St., Torrington, CT 06790

Phone: (860) 482-3638 | Website: www.shepherdseeds.com

This company recently added 23 hard-to-find flowers, including:

  • Blue Lace Flower (Trachymene coerulea): A native of Australia with finely cut flowers resembling Queen Anne’s lace.
  • Zinnia ‘Bonita’: A red and yellow mix with tiny, buttonlike flowers in faded brick red and rich golden tones.
  • Sunflower ‘Inca Jewels’: A South American variety with a range of colors, from yellow and gold to orange and burgundy.

Thompson & Morgan

Address: P.O. Box 1308, Jackson, NJ 08527

Phone: (800) 274-7333 | Catalog: Free

This company offers a variety of hard-to-find plants, including:

  • Inca Jewels Sunflower: Available in a variety of colors, from bright yellow to bicolored bronze.

Asters Fill Gap Between Summer, Winter Blooms

Growing Asters: Tips for Adding Color to Your Garden

After summer flowers have faded and before winter bloomers appear, asters light up the garden with their cheery, daisy-like flowers. Native to temperate regions in the Northern Hemisphere, they grow well in our mild Southern California weather.

“Although asters come in a wide range of colors and sizes and are vigorous growers, they are uncommon in many gardens,” says John Whittlesey, owner of Canyon Creek Nursery in Oroville, a mail-order company that specializes in uncommon perennials, including more than 20 perennial aster varieties.

Asters range in size from small, 6-inch-high mounding bedding plants to 6-foot-tall giants that can grow several feet wide. Flower colors include white, blue, lavender, yellow, pink, and purple.

Some of Whittlesey’s favorites include ‘Bill’s Big Blue,’ which grows to 5 feet tall and 3 feet wide. This makes a great cut flower with its sturdy, erect stems topped with long sprays of medium-blue flowers.

Aster flower close-up

A. pringlei ‘Monte Casino’ was developed for use as a cut flower in Holland. It grows 4 to 5 feet tall and has airy sprays of white flowers resembling baby’s breath that are used as filler in bouquets.

Popular Aster Varieties

Here are some varieties of asters that thrive in Southern California:

  • A. Cordifolius ‘Little Carlow’: Tolerates partial shade and grows 3 to 4 feet high with dark violet-blue flowers.
  • A. Lateriflorus ‘Prince’: Has deep purple leaves during the summer and is covered with mauve-pink flowers in the fall.

Planting Tips for Asters

Now is a great time to transplant asters, many of which will bloom into November. Follow these planting guidelines:

  • Sun Exposure: Most asters prefer full sun, though some varieties like divaricatus and cordifolius tolerate partial shade. Keep in mind that asters are dormant during the winter months.
  • Soil and Watering: Asters require regular watering. If planting in a dry area, amend the soil with 25% compost to improve its water-holding capacity. Plant asters at the same height they are in their containers and space them 24 to 30 inches apart.
  • Container Growing: Asters can thrive in containers. Use a pot that’s at least 12 inches in diameter, high-quality potting soil, and a slow-release fertilizer.
  • Watering: Keep the soil moist but not soggy.
  • Fertilizing: Fertilize ground-grown asters monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer during their growth period, generally from March through November.

Care and Maintenance

  • Pruning: Avoid pruning asters during their active growth period, especially in the summer. Pruning won’t improve blooming and may reduce the number of flowers in the fall.
  • Protection from Winds: Shelter asters from strong Santa Ana winds, which can damage the plants. Staking taller varieties may be necessary.
  • Pest Control: Asters are generally pest- and disease-free but may occasionally develop powdery mildew in late fall. The best prevention is to avoid overhead watering.
  • Dormancy and Cutting Back: After flowering, asters go dormant. Cut them back to the ground, leaving a small amount of basal foliage. In spring, the plant will regrow.
  • Dividing Asters: To maintain vitality, divide asters every two to three years in February or March. Dig up the plants, select the strongest pieces, and replant them in the same location.

Planting Aster: Info Box

Planting Aster (Compositae – Perennials – All zones)

  • There are more than 600 species of true asters, ranging from 6 inches to 6 feet high.
  • Transplant asters at the same height as their original pots.
  • Ensure the soil remains moist, amending with 25% compost if the soil is dry.
  • When planting multiple asters, space them 24 to 30 inches apart.

Canyon Creek Nursery
3527 Dry Creek Road, Oroville, CA 95965
(530) 533-2166
Catalog $2.

GARDENING Fresh Cabbage Can Be A Heady Experience

How to Grow Fresh and Flavorful Cabbage in Your Garden

You haven’t really tasted good coleslaw until you’ve sampled slaw made with fresh cabbage. While store-bought cabbage often is picked weeks before you buy it and can be tasteless, fresh cabbage is flavorful, crisp, and juicy.

In addition to the typical green, smooth heads of cabbage, there is purple cabbage and savoy, which has crinkly leaves. Baby cabbages are only 4 inches around, and Oriental cabbages such as pak choy and bok choy look more like a cross between celery and lettuce.

Cabbage grows well here during the winter months, says Dennis Glowniak, growing chairman for the California Organic Gardening Club. “Plant cabbage now and you’ll have tasty heads for months to come,” he said.

To have good results growing cabbage, keep the following tips in mind:

Choosing the Right Cabbage Variety

There are different types of cabbage based on growing time. Here’s a breakdown of the options:

  • Early Season: Grows in just 45 days and creates a small 1 1/2- to 2-pound head.
  • Mid-Season: Grows in about 75 to 80 days and produces heads weighing 4 to 5 pounds.
  • Late Season: Takes 90 to 100 days to mature, with large 6- to 8-pound heads.

Just about any variety can be planted now, but early season types should be planted after December or January to ensure they mature before warm weather arrives.

Tips for Growing Cabbage

  • Start from Seed: You can find cabbage plants at the nursery or grow your own from seed. Plant seeds about half an inch deep in small containers. Seedlings should emerge in 7 to 10 days, and transplant them into the garden after about five weeks when they are at least 3 inches high.
  • Sun and Soil: Plant cabbage in full or part sun. Amend the soil with compost to ensure good drainage, working it into the top 6 to 8 inches of soil.
  • Space Properly: Space early cabbage varieties 18 inches apart and larger varieties at least 2 feet apart.
  • Avoid Mulch: Do not mulch around cabbage, as it can attract pests like sow bugs and earwigs. Use plastic to cover the soil and reduce weed growth.
  • Container Growing: You can grow three early-season varieties in a half-barrel-size container or six to eight baby heads in the same size pot. Use high-quality potting soil and a balanced organic fertilizer.
  • Support Larger Varieties: Larger cabbage types may fall over near harvest time. Provide support to keep the cabbage from touching wet soil.
  • Watering: Cabbage roots are shallow, so keep the plants moist but not soggy. They require little water during the rainy months.
  • Feed Regularly: Foliar feed cabbage weekly with a solution of sea kelp or seaweed for extra nutrients.

Watch Out for Pests

Cabbage can attract several pests, including:

  • Sow Bugs and Earwigs: Avoid mulch to prevent these pests.
  • Aphids: Spray plants with a strong stream of water twice a week to control aphids.
  • Cabbage Loopers: Hand-pick these green inchworms or treat with Bacillus thuringiensis (BT). You can also cover your cabbage with floating row covers to prevent moths from laying eggs.

Harvesting Cabbage

Harvest your cabbage heads when they have reached the correct size and maturity as stated on the seed packet. Avoid waiting too long, as heads may crack and lose flavor. Pull up the entire plant when harvesting.

The California Organic Gardening Club meets on the third Thursday of each month at 7 p.m. at 9621 Bixby Ave., Garden Grove. For more information, contact (714) 761-8130 or (714) 971-7954.

Additional Tips

Plant cabbage now for fresh heads throughout the winter and spring months. With proper care and attention to variety, spacing, and pest control, you can enjoy homegrown cabbage in your meals all year round.

The Secret Side of Herbs

Looking for Fresh Tastes or Exotic Flavors? Try Growing Unusual Culinary Herbs

Do parsley, rosemary, and thyme leave you yawning? Have basil and oregano lost their allure? Maybe it’s time to try growing something different in your herb garden. There are thousands of unusual culinary herbs out there, just waiting for a place in your garden and kitchen.

“People are used to a limited amount of culinary herbs, because they only know the old standards,” says V. J. Billings, owner of Mountain Valley Growers Inc. in Squaw Valley, a mail-order company that offers 140 culinary herbs, many of them little known.

“Few people have heard of culantro, but those who find out about it are delighted,” says Billings. “This herb has the exact same taste as cilantro, but it is much easier to grow and doesn’t bolt, like cilantro tends to do. It also produces edible leaves most of the year, whereas cilantro only tolerates cooler weather.”

Another unusual herb found in a variety of Mexican and Asian dishes is lemongrass, which many people don’t realize is a snap to grow in the garden, says Malee Hsu, owner of Upland Nursery in Orange. She carries a variety of unusual herbs, many of them in spring, but she always has lemongrass on hand.

“Lemongrass does really well in our climate, and it is very easy to grow and propagate,” she says.

Unusual Herbs to Grow in Your Garden

Stevia is another little-known herb that thrives in Southern California. “They call Stevia the sweet herb of Paraguay, because its leaves are 100 times sweeter than sugar yet it is said to have no detrimental effects for diabetics,” says Billings. “Everyone is always amazed when they eat a leaf because it tastes just like pure sugar.”

Although many unusual herbs aren’t well-known, they’re beginning to catch on. “There has been an incredible explosion in herb interest,” says Billings. “When we opened our doors at the nursery 15 years ago, we had just seven plants on our list, and we didn’t think people would buy them. One of them was Italian parsley.”

More people are becoming aware of exotic herbs, agrees Michael Jordan, a professional chef, who is now general manager at Pinot Provence in Costa Mesa, a restaurant that uses a lot of fresh herbs in their cooking and places an herbal bouquet–instead of flowers–on every table.

“Supermarket shelves are beginning to fill with uncommon, exotic herbs that you wouldn’t have seen 10 years ago,” says Jordan, who is also an avid gardener.

Growing Unusual Herbs

Now is a great time to plant culinary herbs. They can set down roots before winter, then take off in spring. Many culinary herbs are warm-weather plants, but most don’t go dormant in winter, and some provide usable foliage in the cold months.

Tips for Growing Culinary Herbs

  • Separate your culinary herbs: “In order to maintain their vigor, culinary herbs should be cut frequently,” says Billings. “They won’t get pruned enough if they’re out in the landscape or mixed in with annual vegetable plants.”
  • Select a sunny or partially shady spot: Ensure excellent drainage. If your soil is hard clay, amend with at least 50% organic matter, such as homemade or bagged compost.
  • Use containers: If space is limited or your soil doesn’t drain well, container growing is a great option.
  • Water regularly: Water herbs daily until they are established and show new growth. Keep the soil moist but not soggy.
  • Fertilize cautiously: Only fertilize with a slow-release organic fertilizer when you see a problem and the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.00.

Unusual Culinary Herbs to Try

There are thousands of little-known culinary herbs. Below are a few easy-to-grow options that will add interest to your garden and flavor to your cooking. Many are available at specialty nurseries or through mail-order, and are suitable for container growing:

  • Culantro (Eryngium foetidium): Tastes like cilantro but is easier to grow. It produces edible leaves most of the year and doesn’t bolt like cilantro.
  • Garlic Chives (Allium tuberosum): Flat-blade leaves with garlic overtones. In summer, they flower with eye-catching white or mauve flowers.
  • Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus): Popular in Mexican and Asian dishes, it’s easy to grow and adds a subtle flavor to meats and tea.
  • Lovage (Levisticum officinale): Tastes like celery and adds flavor to soups, stews, and salads.
  • Greek Sage (Salvia fruticosa): Stronger flavor than regular sage. Use fresh or dried for stuffing, meat sauces, and poultry.
  • Pink Savory (Satureja thymbra): Small shrub with sweetly flavored leaves that work well in eggs, pastry, and tea.
  • Winter Savory (Satureja montana): Hot flavor, perfect for spaghetti sauce and strong meats. Keep it trimmed for fresh growth.
  • Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana): Sweet herb whose leaves are 100 times sweeter than sugar. Great for diabetics and can be used in teas and as a sugar substitute.
  • Caraway Thyme (Thymus herba-barona): Great for ground cover with a caraway flavor. Excellent in breads and meat dishes.
  • Conehead Thyme (Coriothymus capitatum): Low-growing with a spicy jalapeño flavor. Perfect for stir-fries and breads.

Using Fresh Herbs in Cooking

What to do with all those fresh herbs from your garden? Florent Marneau, executive chef of Pinot Provence in Costa Mesa, shares these tips:

  • Use fresh herbs as a base for salads with vegetables like gourmet lettuce, carrots, cucumbers, and tomatoes.
  • Marinate meats and vegetables with olive oil, garlic, salt, cracked pepper, and chopped herbs.
  • Grill meat and vegetables over coals covered with herb leaves for subtle flavor.
  • Blend fresh herbs into soup right before serving.
  • Mix herbs into desserts like fruit salad, sorbet, or ice cream. Top cakes and pies with fresh herbs and flowers.
  • Make herbal oils and vinegars, or add herbs to breads for extra flavor.

For more information, reach Mountain Valley Growers at (209) 338-2775 or visit their website at Mountain Valley Growers for a free catalog.

Cannas Plant Be No Bother? Sure Can!

Cannas Bring a Tropical Touch to Your Garden with Ease

Cannas, those eye-catching plants with large dramatic fronds and brightly colored flowers, make a garden look like an island paradise. They offer a tropical look without all the usual fuss.

Why Cannas Are a Gardener’s Dream

“The great thing about cannas is that they are really easy to grow,” says Rick Nowakowski, owner of Nature’s Curiosity Shop, a Vista retail and mail-order nursery that carries a wide variety of cannas.

“Cannas grow in almost any kind of soil, and some of them even flower most of the year in Southern California,” he says. All flower in the summer and fall.

Origins and Appearance

Originally from tropical South America, cannas are related to bananas and gingers. They resemble these plants with their large, often variegated fronds that come in a variety of colors, including:

  • Green
  • Bronze
  • Purple
  • White and yellow striped

Plants range in height from 18 inches to 8 feet, though many average 6 to 7 feet tall. Flowers come in a rainbow of colors, including:

  • Red
  • Orange
  • Yellow
  • Apricot
  • Cream
  • Pink

Popular Canna Varieties

  • ‘Pink Sensation’: Grows 2–3 feet tall. Features pink flowers and leaves striped with pink, cream, and red.
  • ‘Pretoria’: Grows 6–7 feet tall and wide. Yellow leaves with green stripes and bright orange flowers.
  • ‘Ehmanii’: A giant reaching 8–10 feet. Blooms magenta flowers most of the year.
  • ‘Tropicana’: Reaches 6 feet tall. Multicolored leaves striped in orange, chartreuse, red, and green, with bright orange flowers.

Growing and Care Tips for Cannas

To grow healthy, vibrant cannas, keep these tips in mind:

  • Sunlight: Plant in full sun to light shade.
  • Soil: Thrive in almost any soil, including clay. Amend with compost (25–30%) if preferred.
  • Containers: Use high-quality potting soil and one-size-larger pots. Most varieties, except giants, do well in containers.
  • Watering: Water frequently; cannas are thirsty. Mulch with compost to retain moisture. Avoid soggy soil.
  • Feeding: Fertilize monthly with a balanced fertilizer. Use liquid fertilizer for containers and either liquid or granular for in-ground plants.
  • Deadheading: Cut spent flowers just below the pod, but leave the stalk. This encourages quicker reblooming.
  • Spring Pruning: Trim brown leaves, old bloom stalks, and dead foliage from the plant’s center in early spring.

Where to Buy Cannas

Cannas are available at local nurseries and through mail-order sources, typically sold in 3- to 5-gallon containers.

Visit Nature’s Curiosity Shop at 1388 Sunset Drive, Vista. Open Saturdays and weekdays by appointment. For a free plant list, call (760) 726-1488.

Gourd Times

Is This Versatile Fruit the Black Sheep of the Cucurbitaceae Family? Or the Pumpkin’s Cute Little Cousin?

Find out at this weekend’s Artistic License Fair in Costa Mesa.

Ancient Uses of Gourds

Before the age of steel utensils, plastic pitchers, and glass bottles, our ancestors turned to gourds. These durable and versatile fruits were used to create:

  • Eating utensils and dishes
  • Water containers
  • Storage vessels
  • Musical instruments

Today, gourds continue to be used as decorative items and artistic mediums, especially during the holiday season.

Types of Gourds

  • Hard-shelled gourds (Lagenaria): Grown and dried across the globe throughout history.
  • Ornamental gourds (Cucurbita pepo): Found in stores during the fall, these colorful and uniquely shaped gourds are popular for decorations.
  • Luffa: The source of the well-known luffa sponge.

Global Uses

In many countries, gourds are still used for:

  • Food and water vessels
  • Musical instruments
  • Religious ceremonies

San Juan Capistrano gourd artist Lynne Everett showcases her gourd creations at the Artistic License Fair and also teaches gourd crafting.

Growing Conditions in Southern California

Southern California offers ideal growing conditions for gourds, according to Doug Welburn of Welburn Gourd Farm, which grows around 100,000 gourds annually.

“Gourds are like squash. They like hot weather and a lot of sun.” – Doug Welburn

Harvesting and Storing Gourds

  • Ornamental gourds can be used immediately after harvest.
  • Hard-shelled gourds must be cured for several months until fully dry.

Tips for Selecting and Storing Gourds

  • Choose firm ornamental gourds; mushy ones are rotting.
  • Keep gourds away from heat sources to prevent drying and rotting.
  • Refrigerate to extend their decorative life, and remove a few days before display.
  • To prevent mold, soak in a mild bleach solution and dry thoroughly.

Planting Tips

Starting Indoors

  • Start seeds in February using seed-starting mix.
  • Soak seeds overnight before planting 1 inch deep.
  • Cover with plastic wrap until germination.
  • Provide full sun until seedlings have four true leaves, then transplant outdoors.

Outdoor Planting

  • Plant in March, April, or May in sunny, warm locations.
  • Use mounds or trellises for growth.
  • Allow long gourds to hang; use sturdy trellises for heavy types.

Gourd Care

  • Water frequently without wetting the leaves.
  • Fertilize at planting and 1–2 times during the growing season.
  • Monitor for cucumber beetles and mildew.
  • Pollinate hard-shell gourd flowers manually if needed.
  • Harvest gourds in late fall after vines die back.
  • Cure hard-shell gourds outdoors off the ground in a ventilated area with morning sun for 3 months.
  • Use a mild bleach solution to remove any black mold developed during curing.

Where to Find Gourds and Seeds

  • Lynne Everett: (949) 728-0269 or rleverettocsouth.net
  • Artistic License Fair: Today and Sunday, 10 a.m.–4 p.m., Estancia Park, 1900 Adams Ave., Costa Mesa. Free admission. (909) 371-6507

Mail-Order Sources

  • Rocky Ford Gourd: P.O. Box 222, Cygnet, OH 43413. (419) 655-2152
  • The Tree Mover Tree and Gourd Farm: Open Mon–Sat, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Call ahead. (805) 947-7121
  • Welburn Gourd Farm: Open Fri–Sat 10 a.m.–4 p.m., and Mon–Thu by appointment. (760) 728-0269

Books on Gourd Craft

  • The Complete Book of Gourd Craft by Ginger Summit & Jim Widess – $27
  • Gourds in Your Garden by Ginger Summit – $20

Common Types of Gourds

Ornamental Gourds

  • Crown of Thorns: Spiky, finger-like projections; usually green and off-white. Some can be dried.
  • Egg Gourds: Smooth, white, egg-shaped gourds ideal for baskets or ornaments.
  • Turk’s Turban: Orange-red bottom with a rounded, striped top resembling a turban. Great as a centerpiece.
  • Variegated Gourds: Smooth-skinned with diverse shapes and striping in green, yellow, and orange.
  • Warties: Bumpy, colorful gourds perfect for adding texture and interest.

Hard-Shelled Gourds

  • Canteen: Flattened round shape, 6–8 inches in diameter. Traditionally used as canteens.
  • Indonesian Bottle: Slender waist with two bulbs; good for vases or bottles.
  • Large Bushel: Giant, pumpkin-like; up to 3 feet in diameter. Great for jack-o’-lanterns.
  • Long-Handled Dipper: Tube shape with bulb end; excellent for floral arrangements.
  • Mini Bottle: 1½-inch gourd used for necklaces or shakers.

Geraniums: A Green Thumb Isn’t Required

If you’re looking for a plant that needs little care and blooms most of the year, look no further than the geranium. Just water these cheery plants and they thrive in our Mediterranean climate.

“Geraniums are definitely a plant that you can plop in the ground and ignore, and they will grow successfully,” says Gerald Stewart, who owns New Leaf Nurseries in Vista, a mail-order and retail company that specializes in geraniums of all types.

Another bonus: Geraniums attract hummingbirds.

There are many types of geraniums in a wide array of flower colors, including rose, purple, pink and blue. Most do well in containers.

For continuous flowering, zonal or common geraniums and ivy-leaved types are best. Martha Washington or regal geraniums have a showy bloom, but it usually only lasts throughout spring and early summer. Scented geraniums are generally not grown for their flowers, which are usually small. Those plants are collected for their intriguing fragrances, such as nutmeg, apple, peppermint, lemon, rose and lime.

Common geraniums come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, from 4 inches high to several feet. Some of these cascade, making them good choices for hanging baskets. Also perfect for hanging are ivy-leaved geraniums, which can hang 2 or 3 feet and longer. Some are also used as ground cover.

You’ll have the best luck with these easy growers by keeping the following tips in mind.

* For good flowering, most geraniums need a minimum of four hours a day of direct sun. Two exceptions are the peppermint-scented geranium (P. Tomentosum) and golden-leaved zonal varieties.

* Geraniums need well-drained soil, or they will rot. If planting in ground of questionable drainage, plant on a mound that is 2 inches high. This assures that the plant’s crown stays dry. No amending is suggested when planting, as geraniums generally do well in existing soil.

* To plant in containers, use two parts high-quality potting soil and one part perlite.

* Protect the roots of small potted plants from baking in the sun by placing each pot inside another container. (Make sure both have good drainage.) Stewart suggests planting in plastic containers, which retain water well, and putting those inside terra-cotta containers.

* Water geraniums when the soil surface approaches dryness. If in doubt about watering, don’t: Geraniums will take drought better than over-watering.

* Geraniums aren’t heavy feeders, but they do need some food for healthy growth and blooming. It’s optimum to feed three times a year with a well-balanced fertilizer such as a 15-15-15, although just about any fertilizer will do. For container plants, Stewart suggests using time-released food so the plants have a constant source of nutrients.

* Prune year-round blooming geraniums occasionally, when they begin to look straggly. Remove old bloom stalks and do light shaping, and the plant will continue to bloom.

* Geraniums are easy to propagate by cuttings. Cut off a piece of plant underneath a leaf node and stick the cut end into a container of moist potting soil or directly into the ground. Keep it moist but not soggy, and it should root in a month or so.

New Leaf Nurseries is at 2456 Foothill Drive, Vista, CA 92084. There will be a free scented-geranium lecture at the nursery at 9:30 a.m. on Aug. 15. (760) 726-9269.

Plumeria Send People on Scent-imental Journeys

The Enchanting Allure of Plumeria

The heady scent of plumeria will send you on vacation every time you smell them.

“Plumeria seem to have a magical hold on people,” says “Jungle” Julie Hunt, a San Clemente landscape consultant and certified arborist who grows and sells a variety of plumeria. “When people smell my plumeria, they get all glassy-eyed and happy and start reminiscing about past vacations.”

Though often associated with the Hawaiian Islands and leis, plumeria are actually native to Mexico and India.

Colors and Fragrances

Grown as a shrub or small tree, plumeria come in many colors and scents. Common flower colors include:

  • White
  • Pink
  • Red
  • Yellow
  • Gold
  • Peach
  • Apricot
  • Violet

Fragrances range from coconut and mango to peach, cinnamon, raspberry, lemon, and vanilla.

Blooming Season

Plumeria typically bloom from spring through fall. They are deciduous and drop their leaves in midwinter.

Recommended Varieties for Southern California

  • Guillot’s Sunset: Long-lasting rainbow-colored flowers with vivid orange centers.
  • Samoan Fluff: Large white petals with a strong fragrance.
  • Mokey Man: Very fragrant yellow flowers.
  • Dwarf Deciduous: Compact grower with white flowers and yellow centers.
  • Marino’s Rainbow: Multicolored blooms (yellow, red, pink) with a peach scent.
  • Aztec Gold: Buttercup-yellow flowers edged in pink-white with a peach fragrance.

Growing Tips for Plumeria

Though tropical, plumeria are easy to grow with the right care. Here are tips from expert Julie Hunt:

  • Sun & Drainage: Choose a sunny, warm location. In hot inland areas, protect from harsh afternoon sun. Ensure excellent drainage. Use large containers if needed.
  • Planting Potted Plumeria:
    • Choose a high spot and loosen the soil.
    • Amend soil 50% with organic mulch or planting mix.
    • Insert a stake and set the plant next to it on top of the soil.
    • Mound soil around roots, tamp down, stake plant, and water lightly.
    • Optional: Sprinkle alyssum seeds to stabilize soil.
  • Container Growing:
    • Use cactus mix or combine 3 parts potting soil, 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite, 1 part sand.
    • Pre-moisten soil and avoid watering for the first few days.
  • Cuttings:
    • Let cuttings dry in a bright, arid place for 1–2 weeks.
    • Dip in rooting hormone and insert into damp perlite.
    • Place in bright light and water sparingly until roots form (2–4 weeks).
  • Watering:
    • Do not overwater—plumeria are prone to rot.
    • Water daily in summer; reduce watering in dormancy.
  • Fertilizing: Apply a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients monthly during the growing season.
  • Pest Control:
    • Watch for giant whitefly, thrips, and spider mites.
    • Use ultra-fine horticultural oil or rinse with water weekly.

Propagation Tips

Take cuttings in early spring as dormancy ends. Avoid horizontal cuts to reduce rot risk.

Harvesting Flowers

Harvest by snapping flowers off at an angle. Immediately place them in water to seal the stems.

Upcoming Event

A plumeria meeting and cutting sale will be held at 2 p.m. on July 19 at the South Coast Botanical Gardens, 26300 Crenshaw Blvd., Rolling Hills Estates. Meeting is free; garden admission is $5. Call (310) 544-6815 for details.

Mail-Order Source

Stokes Tropicals, based in New Iberia, Louisiana, offers a wide selection of plumeria. Call (800) 624-9706 or visit
www.stokestropicals.com.

Some Things in Life Are Just Mint to Be

All About Mint: A Versatile Herb for Your Garden

Mint is one of the most popular herbs. Used for thousands of years for flavoring and as a medicine, it was chosen as the 1998 Herb of the Year by the International Herb Association.

“Mint is a great herb to have in the garden,” says Shirley Kerins, a Huntington Beach landscape architect who is curator of the herb garden at the Huntington Botanical Gardens in San Marino.

Mythological Origins

The name “mint” may have come from Menthe, the daughter of the river god Cocyte. According to Kerins, Menthe was content sitting by her father’s river until Hades, god of the underworld, fell in love with her. When Menthe begged her father to save her, he transformed her into a mint plant.

Culinary Uses

In cooking, mint can be used in a variety of ways. It’s a great addition to:

  • Tea and lemonade
  • Fruit salads
  • Sauces
  • Mint infusions (e.g., in icing for chocolate cake)

Varieties of Mint

There are over 600 varieties of mint, with new types appearing regularly due to its ease of hybridization. Mint can grow in a variety of colors, such as red, purple, white, cream, and silver, and in various heights.

Popular mint varieties include:

  • Mint-the-Best: Dark green leaves and pure spearmint flavor; grows up to 18 inches tall.
  • Bergamot: Peppermint with a slight orange flavor; grows to 2 feet.
  • Apple Mint: Mild apple fragrance in the leaves.
  • Chocolate Mint: Has a chocolate-like taste.
  • Pennyroyal: Known for repelling fleas.

Growing Mint in Your Garden

Mint grows year-round in mild climates and can be planted at any time. Follow these tips for successful mint cultivation:

  • Containerize Mint: Prevent aggressive spreading by growing mint in containers like hanging baskets or window boxes.
  • Use High-Quality Potting Mix: Choose a well-draining mix that retains moisture. Potting mixes with water-holding polymers are ideal.
  • Sunlight Requirements: Provide partial sun inland and full to partial sun in coastal areas.
  • Water Regularly: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially in warm weather. Daily watering may be required in hot conditions.
  • Feed Mint: Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength once or twice per year.
  • Prune Regularly: Promote bushy growth by pinching back flowers and trimming frequently.

Visit the Orange County Herb Faire

The Orange County Herb Faire runs through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the Fullerton Arboretum. Admission is $5; children under 17 and parking are free. Call (714) 278-3404 for more information.

Wisteria a Fine Vine–and Pretty Good Shrub

Planting and Growing Wisteria: Tips for Success

Few plants add elegance and romance to the landscape like wisteria, with its soft foliage and large, drooping clusters of perfumed flowers. Although wisteria is a vigorous deciduous vine, it can also be trained as a tree or shrub.

Now is a good time to plant wisteria. Although most wisteria is currently dormant, plants should start budding in the next few weeks and will bloom in April or May. Some established vines even bloom into the summer months, says Jim Kitano, manager of Kitano Garden Center in La Palma.

There are about 10 species of wisteria, but the type most commonly found is Wisteria sinensis, native to China.

Popular Wisteria Varieties

  • ‘Alba’: White flower clusters reaching up to 2 feet.
  • ‘Caroline’: Known for its dark purple-blue flowers.
  • ‘Cooke’s Special’: Deep purple blooms with a long blooming period from spring through summer.

Tips for Growing Wisteria

  • Sunlight: Choose a spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
  • Space for Growth: When growing as a vine, give the plant ample space. Wisteria can grow up to 120 feet. Use a sturdy structure like an arbor, patio roof, or fence.
  • Training as a Tree or Shrub:
    • Buy a pre-trained plant or train one yourself.
    • Remove all but one main stem and stake it securely.
    • Pinch the top when it reaches the desired height to encourage branching.
    • Rub off buds below the branching point.
  • Good Drainage: Test for drainage by filling a 2-foot-deep hole with water. If it drains within 24 hours, it’s suitable.
  • Soil Preparation: In clay soil, mix in one-third planter’s mix and dig down at least 2.5 feet.
  • Planting Depth: Ensure the graft union is 1–2 inches above the soil surface.
  • Watering:
    • Water a couple of times per week during dry spells.
    • Once established (after 3 years), water once a week in warm weather.
  • Fertilizing: Fertilize three times a year:
    • Spring/Summer: Use high-nitrogen fertilizer (e.g., 16-16-16).
    • Fall: Use phosphorus and potassium-rich fertilizer (e.g., 5-20-10) to boost root strength and flowering.
  • Growing in Containers:
    • Use a pot with at least 20-gallon capacity.
    • Fill with high-quality potting soil.
    • Water every 3–5 days depending on weather conditions.
    • Fertilize as you would for in-ground plants.
  • Pruning: After the first year of growth, prune when flowering ends in late spring or early summer to control size and shape.

Additional Resources

For more information, consult “Wisterias: A Comprehensive Guide”, available for $33 through Wayside Gardens. Contact them at (800) 845-1124.

Plant Arugula: Salad Nearly Tosses Itself

Grow Arugula for a Gourmet Touch in Your Garden

Arugula may grow like a weed, but it adds a gourmet touch to salads, sandwiches, pasta, and pizza. This spicy green, with its nutty tang, is also a key ingredient in mesclun lettuce mixes.

Known by other names such as roquette and rocket, arugula is native to Southern Europe. While it can be grown year-round in many climates, it thrives best in the cooler weather of winter and spring.

Arugula germinates and grows quickly, which is why it often doesn’t stay long on nursery shelves. Therefore, planting from seed is the best option, according to Sharon Kaszan, trials manager for W. Atlee Burpee & Co., a mail-order seed company based in Warminster, Pa.

“Plant arugula seed now, and you’ll be harvesting tender, zesty leaves in three to four weeks,” she says.

Arugula is an annual that lasts about three to four months. The young leaves are the mildest in flavor, while older leaves become more intense and tangy. Once the plant begins flowering, the leaves turn bitter, though the flowers are still edible. Hot weather also intensifies the flavor of the leaves.

Types of Arugula

  • Standard Arugula: Features smooth, green, oak-shaped leaves.
  • Italian Wild Rustic Arugula: Smaller, finely lobed leaves with a heartier, more robust taste—ideal for pasta or pizza toppings.

How to Grow Arugula

Sunlight

Arugula prefers a spot that receives at least six hours of sunlight per day. While it can tolerate some shade, it will produce less flavorful leaves in such conditions.

Soil Preparation (Ground Planting)

  • Loosen the soil to a depth of about 4 inches using a rake.
  • Amending the soil is unnecessary unless it’s heavy clay.
  • Broadcast seeds in a patch or plant in rows.
  • Cover seeds with ¼ inch of soil and water thoroughly.
  • Keep the soil moist during germination, which typically takes 5–7 days.

Container Planting

  • Use pre-moistened seed-starting formula or high-quality potting soil.
  • Sprinkle seeds on the surface and cover them with ⅛ to ¼ inch of soil.
  • Water gently after planting.

Watering

  • Keep plants consistently moist but not soggy.
  • Water every 4–5 days in dry weather; containers may require more frequent watering.

Fertilizing

  • Fertilizing is not required unless the soil is nutrient-poor.
  • For nutrient-poor soil, use organic fertilizers such as 5-2-2 at planting, or an organic liquid fertilizer once true leaves appear.

Harvesting Tips

  • Sow new seeds every 2–3 weeks for a continuous harvest.
  • Thin plants regularly to maintain flavor and prevent premature flowering.

Additional Resources

For a free Burpee catalog featuring two types of arugula, call (800) 888-1447 or visit www.burpee.com.

With a Little Planning, You Can Grow the Berry Best

Understanding the Differences Between Home-Grown and Store-Purchased Berries

There are differences between home-grown and store-purchased berries.

Store berries have been picked when still firm. At that point, they are generally tart, tasteless, or only mildly sweet. But when allowed to ripen on the vine, as most gardeners find, there is probably no fruit sweeter or juicier than a berry.

Raspberries, blackberries, and boysenberries are available bare-root in nurseries and through mail order this month. January and early February are the best times to plant. Most berry vines planted now will bear a crop this summer or fall.

Though many berry types require cold winters and don’t like overly hot summers, there are several kinds that do well in Southern California, says Carolyn Harrison, co-owner of Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery in Healdsburg, Calif., a mail-order company that carries a variety of bare-root berry vines.

“The boysenberry [made famous by Walter Knott of Knott’s Berry Farm] grows well in Southern California,” she says. “This is a very large, almost seedless, soft, juicy, dark maroon berry with a distinct tangy flavor and wonderful aroma.”

Popular Berry Varieties for Southern California

The Ollalie blackberry also grows well here. It has very sweet, firm, large, and long berries.

Most raspberries are difficult to grow in our climate because they don’t like hot summer days. However, Willamette does well here as long as it’s kept watered and placed in an area with afternoon shade.

Easy-to-Grow Berry Plants

Berry plants fit into most gardens. Keep the following tips in mind:

  • Raspberries, blackberries, and boysenberries are vining plants that tend to sprawl and do best when trained on a trellis or wall in a weed-free area. All need at least a half day of full sun to produce well.
  • If it is raining and you aren’t able to plant, keep the root ball moist. When waiting more than a week to plant, pot up the canes in planting mix and keep them watered until you’re ready to plant in the ground.
  • Before planting bare-root berries, check your soil’s pH, which can be done with a kit found in the nursery. Blackberries and boysenberries like a soil from 5.5 to 7; raspberries are more particular, requiring 6 to 6.8.
  • If you need to acidify your soil, amend with peat moss and gypsum. When soil is too acidic, add agricultural lime. If the soil is heavy clay, add planting mix or well-aged compost.
  • Don’t add fertilizer to the planting hole, as the roots are very sensitive and may burn. Six weeks after planting, fertilize with a well-balanced food, staying away from the plant’s base. Thereafter, fertilize yearly, when you prune, with blood meal and bone meal or tree and shrub food.
  • Plant berry vines 1 inch deeper than they grew at the nursery and 2 to 3 feet apart.
  • Prune berries in their second year in December, January, or early February. Remove all canes that fruited the previous season and leave new canes to bear the next season.
  • Keep berry vines well-watered. Mulching with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bagged mulch or well-aged manure will keep the plants moist and cut down on weeds.

Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery offers a free catalog. Call (707) 433-6420.

Cyclamen, Poinsettias Can Last

How to Care for Holiday Plants

Holiday plants like poinsettias, cyclamen, and mums often have a tough time. We expect them to add Christmas cheer, but in the rush of the season, we tend to neglect them.

Many holiday plants don’t survive the holiday season due to improper watering, says Vince Hakes, owner of Huntington Garden Center in Huntington Beach.

“Most need to be watered when they are approaching dryness,” he explains. “If this is done, they’ll usually survive the holidays.”

With a little tender loving care, many holiday plants can become year-round additions to your indoor or outdoor garden, says Gary Matsuoka, president of Laguna Hills Nursery in Lake Forest.

Follow these tips from Hakes and Matsuoka, and your new plants may be around to enliven your home next December.

Holiday Plant Care Tips

Azalea

Azaleas can only survive indoors for two to four weeks before they begin to suffer from the warmth and dry air. For best results:

  • Plant in a container or in the ground in a partly shady or shady location.
  • For pot planting, use high-quality potting soil and place it in a pot one size larger than the original container.
  • For ground planting, dig a hole twice the size of the azalea’s root ball and fill with azalea mix.

Forced Bulbs

Many nursery professionals recommend discarding bulbs that have been forced to bloom in water, sand, or pebbles. However, bulbs forced in soil can often be planted in the ground to resume their growth cycle.

  • Amaryllis bulbs do well when replanted and may even bloom again in summer.
  • Other bulbs, like narcissus, can be stored until the next season. Shake off dirt, apply sulfur dust to prevent molding, and store in a cool place.

Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemums bloom for two to three weeks indoors. They require:

  • A sunny window
  • Moist (but not overly wet) soil

After blooms fade, plant outdoors in a well-draining, full-sun location with amended compost.

Cyclamen

Cyclamen are often overwatered. These bulb-like roots require minimal water. For best care:

  • Water only when the soil is dry.
  • They grow best outdoors in cooler temperatures. Avoid keeping them indoors for longer than two weeks.
  • If planted outdoors in a sheltered spot with indirect light, cyclamen can provide year-round blooms.

Kalanchoe

Kalanchoe succulents are colorful and bloom indoors for several weeks. For optimal care:

  • Keep in medium to bright light and let the plant dry slightly between waterings.
  • They can be kept indoors but thrive outdoors in any exposure, from shade to full sun.
  • Ensure good drainage when planting in the ground.

Poinsettias

Poinsettias typically last for a couple of months indoors. When the holidays end:

  • Plant them outdoors in a sunny spot after the risk of frost has passed (late March).
  • Ensure the soil drains well. Consider adding sponge rock and azalea mix to lighten the soil.
  • To get blooms next year, plant in a location free of street lights and provide 12 hours of darkness daily starting in October.

Topiaries

Topiaries often come in pots that are too small for their foliage, making them top-heavy. For best results:

  • Repot them in a larger pot with high-quality potting soil.
  • Herb topiaries like rosemary can be kept indoors during the holidays but should be moved outdoors once the festivities are over.
  • If you have ivy topiaries, watch for spider mites and treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil if needed.

By following these simple tips, your holiday plants can thrive well into the next year and beyond!

Make a Colorful Point With Christmas Cactus

Celebrate the Holidays with Christmas Cactus

We don’t have snow to mark our holiday season, but we have something else—Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

These eye-catching cactuses—with their orchid-like flowers and flat, jointed, scallop-edged leaves—light up the outdoors and indoors every Thanksgiving through early January.

Native to the jungles of Brazil, where they grow on trees, some Christmas cactuses make good hanging-basket plants, while others are upright growers. You can find them in bloom now at nurseries, home-and-garden centers, and through mail-order.

Though purple-red flowers are common, they also come in a variety of other colors, including:

  • Yellow
  • Peach
  • Red
  • Pink
  • Lavender
  • White

Jerry Williams, a horticulturist for Rainbow Gardens in Vista, shares that they specialize in flowering jungle cactuses and offer several varieties of Christmas cactus.

“Some favorite Christmas cactuses include ‘Gold Charm’, which can be grown upright or in a hanging basket,” says Williams. “It has pale yellow, long tubular flowers.”

Popular Christmas Cactus Varieties

  • ‘Aspen’ – Upright grower with white frilly flowers and pink centers
  • ‘Peach Parfait’ – Hanging type with peach flowers and yellow centers

Christmas Cactus Care Tips

  • Light: Place outdoors in filtered sun or indoors in the coolest room. Avoid direct sun and heating ducts.
  • Temperature: Keep buds from dropping by avoiding rooms that are too warm.
  • Darkness for Blooming: Ensure 10–12 hours of darkness daily starting late September. Avoid street lights and indoor lighting in the evening.
  • Watering: Water when the soil is barely damp. Test with a bamboo skewer for accuracy.
  • Fertilizing: Use a half-strength liquid fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-5) every other watering from mid-February to mid-September. Do not fertilize during dormancy.
  • Pruning: In February, twist off two or three joints per stem to promote branching. Suitable only for mature upright plants.
  • Repotting: Repot when root-bound. Use 60% peat moss and 40% perlite. Trim roots slightly and wait 2–3 days before watering.
  • Pest Control: Watch for scale, mealybugs, aphids, and cabbage worms. Treat worms with bacillus thuringiensis and other pests with insecticidal soap.

For Rainbow Gardens’ full-color catalog ($2), call (760) 758-4290.

Bromeliad: 1st Among Bloomers That Last

My Accidental Bromeliad Collection

I began collecting bromeliads almost by accident one summer when somebody offered me one that wasn’t flowering. Though the plant was unremarkable with its sturdy light green and silver leaves, I never say no to strays, so I took it in and stuck it under my plum tree.

As I approached the tree one morning that fall, I was delighted to see that a stunning pink flower had risen out of those unassuming leaves.

Since then, I’ve added several bromeliads to my garden, including tillandsias, which hang from my trees.

Bromeliads Are Gaining Popularity

Uncommon and even rare just a few years ago, bromeliads are quickly gaining popularity. Most nurseries carry at least one or two varieties, and you can sometimes find them in the supermarket. They’ve been traditionally grown as an indoor houseplant and make great holiday gifts, but most varieties also thrive outdoors in our mild climate.

“Gardeners are discovering that they can’t go wrong with bromeliads because they’re undemanding plants that can flower for as long as 16 weeks,” says Michael Kent, who with his family runs Kent’s Bromeliad Nursery Inc., a wholesale nursery in Vista.

“There are also a huge number of color and leaf variations in bromeliads,” he says. “The plants are structurally very different looking than anything else in the garden. They really give the landscape an exotic, tropical look.”

Easy to Care For

Bromeliads are also very easy to care for. They need water only every 10 days, and they don’t require fertilizing.

Origins and Growth Habits

Bromeliads are native to South America but tolerant of many climates. There are a number of varieties, the most famous being the pineapple. Most are epiphytic by nature, meaning they like to grow suspended from trees or other vertical objects, though there are many types that can be grown in soil.

Tillandsias thrive suspended from trees, while others do well in containers. There are bromeliads with tall, elegant flowers, such as the guzmanias, and others with colorful leaves, such as the neoregelias.

Bromeliads tend to bloom in spring and fall outdoors, but you can find them flowering in stores throughout the year.

Take home a bromeliad now, and it will continue to bloom for several weeks—maybe months—indoors or outdoors. Once the bloom fades, that portion of the plant will eventually die, but not before it creates a whole new plant that is ready to bloom.

In nature, bromeliads receive nourishment from the air or from liquid and debris that collect in the cup that forms at the center of their leaves. It is from this cup that each plant’s showy flowers usually emerge.

Why People Love Bromeliads

Those who grow bromeliads tend to do so because of the unusual look they give to the garden.

Archeologist Sylvia Meluzin of Placentia collects tillandsias and neoregelias because her odd-shaped garden calls for vertical landscaping.

“The idea of growing plants on trees and other suspended objects really struck my fancy,” says Meluzin, a member of the Orange County Bromeliad Society. “The silhouette of an epiphytic plant is different depending on the angle from which you view it. My hanging bromeliads give the garden a sculptural, three-dimensional look.”

Tips for Growing Bromeliads

  • Water properly: Water the flower cup and soil, then allow the flower cup to dry before watering again. Constant water in the flower cup can lead to rot.
  • Use well-draining pots: Potted bromeliads need excellent drainage or they may rot.
  • Protect from excessive rain: Some varieties like Tillandsia tectorum may rot with repeated downpours. Consider covering them with plastic after the first rain.
  • Provide filtered sunlight: Most bromeliads prefer filtered sun. Direct sunlight can yellow the leaves and brown the flowers.
  • Protect from dry weather: During hot summer days or Santa Ana winds, mist twice daily to prevent dehydration.
  • Use containers: Bromeliads grow well in pots or hanging from trees. They do not require a lot of space.
  • Repot when needed: Repot when there is no lateral room for new growth.
  • Secure hanging types: Use plastic 20-pound-weight fishing twine to suspend tillandsias. Loosen or reattach as branches grow.
  • Prune sparingly: No regular pruning needed, but remove old flower stalks and leaves when they become unsightly.
  • Don’t over-care: “Bromeliads do best when you don’t love them to death,” says Kent.

Join the Community

The Orange County Bromeliad Society meets every third Saturday of the month (except in December) from 10 a.m. to noon at 1621 E. Lambert Road, La Habra. For more info, call (562) 943-9829.

Leave It to Swiss Chard to Beet Rooty Relatives

Leave It to Swiss Chard to Beet Rooty Relatives

Though it’s a close relative of beets, Swiss chard is grown not for its roots but for its colorful, crispy stalks and tangy leaves. In addition to eating chard raw or cooked, many people use it as an accent plant in the garden and as a filler in fresh floral arrangements.

One of the easiest and most indestructible garden plants to grow, chard does well in our cooler months and can be planted now through May, says Gary Hayakawa, general manager of Three Star Nursery in Fountain Valley, a wholesale-only grower that provides plants to a variety of Orange County nurseries.

Lettuce tends to bolt in warm weather, but chard rarely does. It can also be grown in our hot months, although it won’t grow as lush.

Chard can be planted from seed, and plants can also sometimes be found in the nursery. Two common varieties are:

  • ‘Fordhook Giant’ – Medium-green leaves and broad, pearl-white stalks
  • ‘Rhubarb’ – Candy-apple red stalks and red-veined leaves; often used as an edible accent plant
  • ‘Lucullus Light Green’ – Light green, crumpled leaves

Swiss chard can reach a foot tall in the garden but tastes best and is most tender when harvested at 4 to 6 inches high.

Tips for Growing Swiss Chard

  • Sow in Containers First: Rather than planting directly in the ground, sow seeds in containers and transplant when seedlings reach 3–4 inches tall.

Sow seed ½ inch deep in a porous, all-purpose seed-starting mix. Keep in filtered light until germination (10–18 days depending on temperature). Keep soil moist but not soggy. Once seedlings emerge, gradually move them to full sun before transplanting.

  • Choose a Sunny Spot: Plant in full sun with good air circulation to prevent mildew.
  • Water Consistently: Keep soil evenly moist but avoid oversaturation. Don’t splash water on the leaves.
  • Fertilize Lightly: Chard is not a heavy feeder. Two to three weeks after transplanting, feed with a balanced organic vegetable fertilizer. For continued growth, use a nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer like fish emulsion every 2–3 months.
  • Grow in Containers: Ideal for pots due to shallow roots. Use 5-gallon containers with rich potting soil and compost. Fertilize monthly.
  • Harvesting: Chard is ready 4–5 weeks after transplanting. Pick outer leaves near the base. For full plant harvest, cut at the base—new leaves will regrow.
  • Pest Control: Aphids may appear with temperature fluctuations. Remove with strong water spray or insecticidal soap.

September Planting Guide

Although it’s hot and dry, it’s time to begin planting fall and winter crops. Wait until mid-month to plant more heat-sensitive species. Watering is crucial during hot spells—seedlings and transplants may require watering twice daily.

Flowers (from seed or starter plants):

  • African daisy
  • Alstroemeria
  • Alyssum
  • Bachelor’s button
  • Bells of Ireland
  • Bromeliad
  • Calendula
  • Candytuft
  • Canterbury bell
  • Carnation
  • Chrysanthemum
  • Cyclamen
  • Delphinium
  • English daisy
  • Foxglove
  • Geranium
  • Godetia
  • Impatiens
  • Larkspur
  • Nasturtium
  • Pansy
  • Penstemon
  • Shasta daisy
  • Snapdragon
  • Stock
  • Sweet pea
  • Sweet violet
  • Sweet William
  • Vinca
  • Viola

Vegetables and Herbs:

  • Basil
  • Beet
  • Broccoli
  • Brussels sprout
  • Cabbage
  • Carrot
  • Cauliflower
  • Celery
  • Chervil
  • Chives
  • Cilantro
  • Collards
  • Endive
  • Garlic
  • Kale
  • Kohlrabi
  • Leek
  • Lettuce
  • Mustard greens
  • Onion
  • Oregano
  • Oriental greens
  • Parsnip
  • Pea
  • Potato
  • Radish
  • Rutabaga
  • Spinach
  • Swiss chard
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme
  • Tomato (transplants)
  • Turnip

Bulbs:

  • Bearded iris
  • Lily
  • Sparaxis
  • Watsonia

Researched by JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS / For The Times

A Pocketful of Charm

Wilshire Square Residents Rave About Community’s Beautiful, Diverse Architecture and Friendly Neighbors

In the close-knit community of Santa Ana’s Wilshire Square, it’s not uncommon for Marc LaFont to invite neighbors to dinner. The only trouble is, they’re always late.

“When they’re walking to my house for dinner, guests get stopped by other neighbors who want to chat, and they inevitably arrive a half an hour late,” said LaFont, a publicist who has lived in Wilshire Square for 19 years.

LaFont moved there right out of college in 1978, buying his two-bedroom, 1 1/2-bath home with a library for $78,000.

“Although a Realtor urged me to look at newer housing, I refused,” LaFont said. “I didn’t want a new condominium or tract home. I wanted a house with character that gave me the freedom to express myself. There’s a feeling of funkiness and history in an older home that you can’t find in newer houses.”

LaFont found such a home in Wilshire Square, a neighborhood of more than 600 homes built between 1910 and the early 1950s.

Wilshire Square Neighborhood

Situated south of downtown Santa Ana, Wilshire Square is bounded by McFadden Avenue on the north, Main Street on the east, Flower Street on the west, and Edinger Avenue on the south.

What Makes Wilshire Square Special?

Charming older homes, friendly neighbors, and good prices attract residents to Wilshire Square and keep them there, said Realtor Irma Jauregui of Hacienda Realty in Santa Ana. Most mornings, you’ll find residents walking together and visiting one another for coffee and breakfast, said Jauregui, who has lived in Wilshire Square since 1990.

  • Many of the residents are self-employed and work at home, so it’s customary to visit one another in the morning.
  • Some residents, like LaFont, have even built gates in their fences to visit their neighbors more quickly.

Affordable Housing in Wilshire Square

The average home in Wilshire Square costs $150,000 for a three-bedroom, one-bath 1,200- to 1,300-square-foot house. Prices range as follows:

  • Two-bedroom, one-bath homes: $130,000 (900 to 1,000 sq. ft.)
  • Three-bedroom, two-bath homes: $165,000 to $170,000 (1,500 sq. ft. or more)

Community Spirit

The heart of Wilshire Square is the homeowners association, which is made up of a group of dedicated residents. Unlike many associations that mandate rules and regulations, Wilshire Square’s group was created to ensure that the neighborhood retains its history and charm. The association oversees many social events, including an annual home tour, block parties, and an arts festival. They also produce a bimonthly newsletter and host monthly neighborhood meetings.

Newcomers Feel Welcome

Though the neighborhood is close-knit, it is open to newcomers, as Jeraldine and Mark Moralls discovered when they went house hunting a year ago. The Moralls were welcomed warmly by their neighbors and quickly decided to buy a house in Wilshire Square.

“The night we moved in, neighbors came over with wine and food and helped us cart in furniture,” said Jeraldine Moralls.

Security and Safety

Residents appreciate the security of living in a close-knit community. “My neighbors look out for me,” said resident Ellen Sumrall Brief. “My alarm went off recently, and three neighbors called the police immediately.”

Many residents, including Brief, feel that Santa Ana has been unfairly labeled as a gang center. “We feel very safe here in Wilshire Square,” she said. “We don’t have graffiti, and the crime rate isn’t high. The police seem to be on top of things.”

Unique, Custom-Built Homes

Just about all of the homes in Wilshire Square are custom-built, said 25-year resident Chuck Wright. The homes feature a mix of architectural styles, including English Tudor, Spanish Colonial, Mediterranean, and Craftsman bungalow.

Artistic Atmosphere

Many artists and other creative individuals live in Wilshire Square, contributing to the community’s vibrant atmosphere. Deborah Davidson, an artist and college art teacher, was drawn to Wilshire Square because of its original homes and the sense of community it offers. “There’s a sense of community here that I haven’t found anywhere else,” said Davidson.

Looking for a Fine Vine? Try the Showy Mandevilla

Growing Mandevilla: A Stunning Plant with Year-Round Blooms

If you’re looking for a plant with showy blooms that last most of the year, look no further than the mandeilla.

These heat-loving shrubby vines, native to southeastern Brazil, bloom from April through November, with some varieties flowering continuously. Though they are at their peak now, mandevillas can thrive in warm weather, making this a great time to plant one and allow it to establish quickly.

“The mandevilla is a really versatile plant,” says Gary Matsuoka, president of Laguna Hills Nursery in Lake Forest. “Not only is it a dependable bloomer most or all of the year, it can be used as a background plant, border plant, centerpiece in a container—and one variety even makes a great hanging basket plant.”

The variety most commonly found in nurseries is ‘Alice du Pont’, a plant with reddish-rose flowers and glossy dark green leaves. The leaves are oval-shaped and range from 3 to 8 inches long.

Mandevilla Vine

Though this vine can grow 20 to 30 feet in the ground, it stays much smaller when containerized.

Popular Mandevilla Varieties

Some other popular mandevilla varieties include:

  • ‘Red Riding Hood’: A lower-growing variety with deep pink blooms, ideal for hanging baskets. It blooms most of the year.
  • ‘Scarlet Pimpernel’: Another shrubbier variety with reddish-pink blooms.
  • ‘My Fair Lady’: Known for its striking white flowers.

How to Grow Mandevilla

To grow mandevilla successfully, keep these tips in mind:

  • Location: Mandevillas are sensitive to cold and frost. Plant them in a warm location with plenty of sunlight. A southern exposure or under a roof eave is ideal. They prefer morning sun with afternoon shade, but they can tolerate full sun.
  • Drainage: Mandevillas require excellent drainage, particularly in winter. Test the soil by filling a planting hole with water. If it doesn’t drain in two hours, the location is unsuitable. Amend the soil with compost before planting.
  • Container Growing: Mandevillas thrive in containers. Use a mix of 2 parts high-quality potting soil and 1 part sharp sand for good drainage.
  • Support: Provide a trellis or stake for the vine to climb.
  • Fertilizing: Feed mandevillas monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer to support their new growth, as they bloom on fresh vines.
  • Watering: Keep the plant evenly moist but not waterlogged. Water when the topsoil becomes dry.
  • Pruning: Mandevillas require little pruning. However, young plants should be pinched to encourage bushiness. Trim them if necessary.
  • Pest Control: Though mandevillas are relatively pest-resistant, they may occasionally get aphids, whiteflies, or spider mites. Treat them with fine horticultural oil if needed.

Pumpkins: Planting the Seeds of Halloween

Pumpkins: A Versatile Crop for Your Garden

Pumpkins, once a staple crop of the American Indians, today have triple value: They make delicious pies, have tasty seeds, and are a popular Halloween ornament.

Because pumpkin plants quickly outgrow containers, they are usually not found in nurseries and must be grown from seed, says Sharon Kaszan of W. Atlee Burpee & Co., a mail-order seed company in Warminster, PA.

Planting Time: “Plant pumpkin seeds before the end of June, and you’ll have pumpkins for Halloween,” she says.

Pumpkin seeds can be bought at nurseries and through catalogs. Besides the traditional 8- to 10-pound orange pumpkin, you’ll find unusual varieties such as:

  • ‘Lumina’: An 8- to 10-pound pumpkin with ghostly white skin and an orange interior.
  • ‘Jack Be Little’: A miniature orange pumpkin that is just 3 inches high and 2 inches in diameter.
  • ‘Baby Boo’: A small, white pumpkin similar in size to ‘Jack Be Little’.
Giant Pumpkin

There are also giant pumpkins, some capable of reaching hundreds of pounds. ‘Prizewinner’ is an exhibition-size pumpkin that has been known to surpass 450 pounds. Generally growing between 100 to 200 pounds, it has smooth, glossy, bright reddish-orange skin.

Growing Pumpkins: Tips for Success

To have success growing pumpkins, keep the following tips in mind:

  • Choose a Sunny Location: Pumpkins need plenty of space to grow. Giant pumpkins can have vines up to 25 feet long, so provide five feet in each direction. Small pumpkins can be grown on trellises with some training.
  • Soil and Drainage: Pumpkins prefer rich soil with good drainage. Amend the soil with 50% compost, either homemade or bagged.
  • Mulching: Once pumpkin plants are growing, it’s impossible to weed around them without damaging the plants. Apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick compost mulch to conserve moisture and prevent weeds.
  • Watering: Keep pumpkin plants well-watered. Inadequate watering will cause slow growth. Once established, a good soak once a week is generally sufficient.
  • Fertilizing: Feed the plant regularly with a slow-release, all-purpose vegetable fertilizer such as a 5-5-5 mix. Avoid fertilizers with higher numbers as they can cause rapid leaf growth but hinder fruit development. Fertilize when the plant starts growing, when it vines, when it blossoms, and when blossoms set fruit.
  • Container Growing: If you want to grow pumpkins in containers, the only option is baby pumpkins. Plant one vine in a half barrel and provide a trellis for support. Expect a smaller yield than in-ground planting.
  • Harvesting: Pumpkins are ready to harvest when the vine dies back. The longer they stay on the vine, the sweeter they become.

Where to Buy Pumpkin Seeds

Here are some companies that carry pumpkin seeds:

  • Bountiful Gardens: Carries seeds from various countries. Phone: (707) 459-6410
  • W. Atlee Burpee & Co.: Phone: (800) 888-1447
  • Park Seed: Phone: (800) 845-3369
  • Nichols Garden Nursery: Phone: (541) 928-9280


Now’s the Time to Plant Those Orange Trees

Gardening: Fragrant Beauties Produce Fruit for Up to 50 Years. Get Them in the Ground Before It’s Too Hot

When Orange County was named in the late 1800s, there were more grapevines here than orange trees. Real estate agents pushed for the word “orange” because they felt it evoked a salable Mediterranean flavor. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that the orange industry took off.

These easy-to-grow trees produce fruit for up to 50 years and are an attractive landscape addition with their glossy green leaves and fragrant blossoms that attract bees.

Now is a good time to plant an orange tree because it will have time to set down new roots before really hot weather arrives.

Varieties of Orange Trees
You can find a variety of common and more unusual orange trees in nurseries, including dwarf varieties that are good for containers and small yards, says Laurie Mazzella, new plants manager at Monrovia Nursery in Azusa, a wholesaler that sells to nurseries throughout Orange County.

Orange Tree

“A standard orange tree will grow 20 to 25 feet, but on dwarf root stock like the Flying Dragon type, there are many orange trees that simply become an 8-foot mound,” Mazzella says.

Types of Oranges

Oranges come in two main varieties. The most popular for the home gardener are navels. These large, thick-skinned fruits have no seeds and the segments pull apart easily.

  • Dwarf Navel: Dwarf Lane Late navel orange, growing 6-8 feet tall. This variety has fruit that matures later than most oranges.
  • Washington Navel: The standard variety, produces richly sweet oranges with crisp, tender flesh. It ripens from December to February.
  • Valencia: In season May-November, excellent for juicing with smaller fruit and thin peels. MidKnight Valencia is a nearly seedless variety that holds fruit on the tree for months.
  • Blood Oranges: Moro Moro variety has reddish-orange skin and deep red flesh, offering an exotic flavor of orange with raspberry or strawberry overtones.

Planting Tips

To grow an orange tree in your yard, follow these tips:

  • Choose a healthy tree: Look for one with lots of deep green leaves.
  • Location: Find a full-sun location with excellent drainage. Test drainage by filling a hole with water; if it doesn’t drain within an hour, find a better location.
  • Soil: Amend the soil with 50% compost or planter mix, and gypsum. Ensure the soil is loose to at least a foot deep.
  • Planting depth: Plant the tree at the same level it was in the container. Planting too deeply can suffocate the tree.
  • Watering: Don’t over-water. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings to avoid root rot.
  • Fertilizing: Fertilize 4-5 times a year, using a fertilizer that contains iron to avoid chlorosis, a condition that causes yellowing leaves.
  • Pruning: Orange trees need minimal pruning. Remove branches that touch or are a hazard. Remove suckers growing below the graft union.

Container Growing

For container growing, use a dwarf variety and a pot that’s at least 15 gallons. Ensure regular watering and fertilizing, as the tree has limited access to moisture and food in containers.

May Planting Guide

May is an ideal time for gardening. Temperatures are mild and soil is warm, promoting quick plant growth. If the weather turns hot, water plants more often and shield new transplants from direct sunlight for a couple of days.

Flowers
  • Ageratum
  • Alyssum
  • Aster
  • Begonia
  • Blue flax

Trees / Shrubs / Vines
  • Bougainvillea
  • Citrus
  • Gardenia
  • Hibiscus

Vegetables and Herbs
  • Basil
  • Bean
  • Beet
  • Carrot
  • Cilantro

How to Get Tasty Basil Into Mint Condition

Basil: A Flavorful Herb for Your Garden and Kitchen

Few herbs tantalize the taste buds or jazz up the garden like basil.

Basil, a member of the mint family, is an annual herb that thrives in hot weather. Once planted, you can enjoy its spicy, licorice-flavored leaves for months. Not only does basil provide a tasty edible crop, but it also adds beauty to summer landscaping.

Joyce Smith, a Fullerton gardener and volunteer for the Friends of the Fullerton Arboretum, highlights its ornamental appeal. “Many basil leaves are bright green and glossy, and there are beautiful purple-foliage varieties,” she said. Basil also has flower stalks that come in shades of white, purple, and pink. It is a fast-growing plant, typically reaching about 2 1/2 feet tall and spreading a foot and a half.

How Basil Became Popular

Once thought of as a herb mainly for Italian dishes, basil has gained popularity in recent years for its versatility. As Joyce Smith notes, “Pesto used to be the reason why people grew basil, but now we’ve discovered that it can be added to almost anything.”

Basil is not only a great addition to tomato dishes but also tastes great on fish, chicken, vegetables, and fruit. It can be eaten raw in salads, and many scented basils also make a delightful tea. Additionally, basil can be dried for use in potpourri.

Varieties of Basil

Basil comes in various types, including:

  • Smooth-leafed varieties
  • Varieties with ruffled leaves
  • Basil with large or small leaves
  • Red-leafed basils
  • Scented basils with flavors like cinnamon, lemon, and anise
  • Miniature basils that thrive in containers

The History of Basil

Basil’s past has been somewhat mixed. In ancient Greece and early Europe, it was thought to be poisonous because scorpions were often found living in the plants. However, once the Italians discovered basil’s culinary potential, it gained popularity as a sign of courtship and love. In England, it was even considered an aphrodisiac.

Despite its tumultuous history in Europe, basil has always been revered in Thailand, where it grows wild and is an essential ingredient in many national dishes.

How to Plant and Grow Basil

To plant basil and enjoy a prolific crop, keep the following tips in mind:

  • Planting Time: Wait until soil and nighttime temperatures are 55°F or above, usually in mid-May. Before this time, germinate seeds indoors in a sunny location.
  • Location: Choose a site with full sun. Basil will become leggy in shade and produce fewer leaves.
  • Soil: Basil thrives in rich, well-draining soil. Amend the planting site with 50% compost and 50% existing soil.
  • Plant Spacing: When planting basil transplants, separate them carefully so that each planting hole has a single plant to promote healthy growth.
  • Thinning: If planting seeds, thin the seedlings to 2 inches apart once they reach 2 to 3 inches in height.

Care and Maintenance

  • Fertilizer: Avoid over-fertilizing. Use compost for nutrients, and feed basil with a balanced organic fertilizer at the beginning of the season.
  • Watering: Keep basil well-watered but avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot. Water deeply about once a week, and never overhead water to avoid leaf diseases.
  • Harvesting: Start harvesting when plants reach 6 inches high and have 6 to 8 pairs of leaves. Cut stems back to 2 to 4 leaves, which encourages more growth.
  • Prevent Flowering: To extend basil’s life, prevent it from flowering. Once basil flowers, it enters seed-production mode and stops growing. Cut stems back to 2 to 4 leaves before they flower.

Growing Basil in Containers

Basil thrives in containers, especially when using plastic pots that retain moisture better than other materials. A container at least 5 inches in diameter and 7 inches deep is ideal for a single basil plant. For larger containers, such as a half barrel, you can grow up to three plants.

Conclusion

Basil is a versatile, easy-to-grow herb that offers both culinary and aesthetic benefits. With proper care and attention, basil can provide fresh, flavorful leaves for months, making it a must-have for any garden or kitchen.

Home Buying 101

Classes for Prospective Buyers: Educating Consumers to Reduce Mortgage Defaults

The way Tim Monzello sees it, buying your first home is a lot like being a new parent.

“You’re going into both experiences blind,” said Monzello, 34, who recently moved into his first home in Azusa and has an 8-year-old son. “You’re hungry for any information that will make you a better home buyer or parent,” he added.

Before they bought their three-bedroom, $130,000 home, Tim and his wife, Karen, gathered all the information they could on what they consider the most important purchase they’ll ever make. A critical part of their research included attending classes for new home buyers.

What Are Homebuyer Classes?

Homebuyer classes, typically given by mortgage lenders, real estate agents, and nonprofit groups, are held throughout Southern California and across the United States. These classes are designed to educate consumers about the home-buying process and the responsibilities of homeownership, with the goal of reducing mortgage defaults.

Class Features

  • Offered by mortgage lenders, real estate agents, and nonprofit organizations.
  • Classes range from 4 to 8 hours in length.
  • Sessions are typically held on Saturdays or evenings, with some home study options available.
  • Often mandatory for qualifying for loans requiring 5% down or less.
  • Financial incentives such as down payment or closing cost assistance may be offered.

Attendees must understand how to:

  • Shop for a home.
  • Obtain a mortgage.
  • Handle the responsibilities of homeownership.

History of Homebuyer Classes

The concept of homebuyer classes was introduced in 1989 when Fannie Mae aimed to make homeownership more accessible to low- and moderate-income renters. The initiative partnered with several mortgage insurance companies, including GE Capital Mortgage Insurance Corp.

“In return for educating consumers about homeownership, we felt we could be more flexible in terms of underwriting guidelines,” said Mike Kachel, spokesman for GE Capital.

Since 1990, these classes have been available nationally, benefiting over 300,000 families. In the Los Angeles area alone, homes worth $3.3 billion have been sold to low- and moderate-income buyers in the last five years.

The Monzellos’ Experience

Tim and Karen Monzello attended their first home-buyers class after being referred by their real estate agent, Jim Malone. The classes helped them simplify what would otherwise have been a confusing and daunting process.

“We had talked to people about buying a home, but until we went to our first home-buying seminar and got an idea of what was really involved, it was a nebulous process in our minds,” said Tim Monzello.

During the class, experts discussed:

  • Qualifying for a loan, including affordability, down payments, income requirements, and credit impact.
  • The loan process, including terms like appraisal, escrow, and closing.

Breaking Myths About Homebuying

Some of the common myths dispelled in homebuyer seminars include:

  • Myth 1: A large down payment is required to buy a home.
  • Myth 2: You need perfect credit to qualify for a mortgage.

Credit and Financial Guidance

In addition to the myths about down payments and credit, participants learn about the role of credit in home buying. A major topic of interest is understanding how credit reports are evaluated by lenders.

“The most popular part of the class is often the credit session,” said Carmen Luna, community development officer at Chase Manhattan Mortgage Corp. “People are ignorant about how much credit you must have to buy a home and how lenders look at credit.”

Additional Benefits of Homebuyer Classes

Beyond credit education, the classes also cover:

  • How to address mistakes on credit reports.
  • Legal rights to explain negative credit comments.
  • Guidance on budgeting and how to save for a home.

Case Study: Chris’ Journey to Homeownership

Chris, a participant in a Mission Viejo home-buyers session, appreciated the detailed breakdown of the home-buying process, including:

  • The definition of “escrow”.
  • Understanding closing statements to avoid unnecessary fees.

Through budgeting and guidance from programs like CCCS, Chris is now close to achieving her dream of homeownership.

Conclusion: How Classes Help New Homebuyers

For prospective homebuyers like the Monzellos, these classes helped transform a daunting process into a more understandable and manageable journey. With careful planning, education, and the right guidance, homeownership becomes a more achievable goal.

For information on new home buyers classes in your area, call Consumer Credit Counseling Service at (800) 388-2227 or Fannie Mae’s HomePath hotline at (800) 732-6643.

Dry Ideas : What better for Southern California scenarios than a thirst-quenched garden? A cactus oasis is no barren landscape.

Cactus Gardens: A Peaceful and Low-Maintenance Landscaping Option

When Martin Colver suggested installing a cactus garden in an unused area of his parent’s Costa Mesa backyard, his father, Frank, was uncertain. Planting the cactus would mean removing a 25-year-old pomegranate tree. However, once the garden was installed, Frank quickly saw the benefits.

“The resulting garden is really worthwhile,” said Frank Colver. “Until my son put the cactus garden in, we rarely used that space. Now we sit out there more than any other area of the yard. It’s surprising what a peaceful feeling the garden generates.”

The Beauty of Cactus Gardens

Many people picture cactus gardens as barren wastelands, says Martin Colver, a groundsworker for Newport Beach Parks Division. “But there are many different types of cactus, and they can make a stunning display,” he adds.

With over 2,000 cactus species, the options are vast. Some grow large and make a showpiece, while others are miniatures suitable for smaller gardens or containers. Cactus can grow as trees, with branches, or in traditional barrel shapes.

Popular Cactus Varieties

  • Golden Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus grusonii): Dark lime green with yellow spines and a fuzzy yellow top when in bloom.
  • Red Barrel Cactus (Ferocactus stainesii): Dark green with red spines.
  • Candelabra Tree (Euphorbia ingens): A tall succulent with a main trunk and several branches, reaching up to 8 feet in height.

Creating Your Own Cactus Garden

In his parents’ garden, Colver planted over 40 species of cactus, alongside a fountain, bench, and multicolored granite rocks to enhance the peaceful feel. His interest in cactus began seven years ago after a camping trip to Baja, where large varieties of cactus grow. After that, he started collecting cactus from nurseries across Southern California.

Although a full landscaping project isn’t necessary, cactus can make great accent pieces. “Cactus contrast well with plants like palms, hibiscus, and bird of paradise,” says Richard Hipp, owner of the House of Cactus.

Essential Tips for Growing Cactus

  • Light Requirements: Choose a location that is warm and bright, but not full sun all day. Cactus don’t need scorching heat.
  • Soil: Cactus thrive in well-drained, sandy soils. Amend heavy clay soil with raised beds or containers using sandy loam.
  • Watering: Water sparingly during the dormant months (November to February). During the growing period (spring to fall), water weekly, but ensure soil dries out between waterings.
  • Fertilizing: Use a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium during the growing season. Avoid excess nitrogen to prevent weak, disease-prone cactus.

Repotting and Maintenance

Cactus can be repotted any time of the year, but avoid going up more than two pot sizes. Use a cactus-specific soil mix, and add a small amount of clay to retain moisture.

Colver’s parents’ cactus garden has thrived thanks to raised beds that provide excellent drainage, especially during wet winters. Proper soil preparation is essential to prevent rot, especially in areas with heavy clay.

Conclusion

Whether you’re creating an entire cactus garden or simply adding a few accent pieces, cactus are a low-maintenance and visually striking addition to any landscape. With proper care, they can thrive for years, bringing beauty and peace to your yard.

For Bit of History, Turn to Your Lace in the Hole

Growing Queen Anne’s Lace: A Timeless Garden Favorite

Queen Anne’s lace adds an aura of romance and nostalgia to a garden. Often used by florists as a filler in arrangements, the flat-topped, ivory flower clusters resemble small doilies.

“Queen Anne’s lace looks good in any garden situation, but it is especially suited for cottage-style gardens planted near other tall flowers like delphiniums, foxglove, snapdragons, and stock,” says Norm Yoder of Friday House Gardens, a nursery in Country Roads Antiques in Orange.

Though regularly used in floral arrangements and for drying, Queen Anne’s lace is not always easy to find in nurseries. However, its popularity is growing, and some specialty nurseries carry it on occasion.

About Queen Anne’s Lace

A member of the carrot family, Queen Anne’s lace has lacy foliage similar to carrots and dill. There are two main types:

  • Ammi majus: The florist variety, typically larger and more commonly found in nurseries.
  • Daucus carota: The true Queen Anne’s lace, featuring a distinct dark purple dot said to represent a drop of Anne Boleyn’s blood.

How to Grow Queen Anne’s Lace

  • Plant in full or partial sun in well-drained soil.
  • If soil is heavy clay, amend with 50% compost.
  • Fertilize with an all-purpose granular fertilizer at planting, and use a phosphorus-rich fertilizer before bloom.
  • Water regularly to keep soil moist but not soggy.
  • For containers, use pots at least 14 inches deep. Amend soil with compost and fertilize as above.
  • Deadhead flowers to encourage more blooms and prevent self-seeding.
  • Cut when flowers peak; they last up to two weeks in water.
  • To dry, hang upside down in a cool, dark space until completely dry.
  • Save seeds by letting some heads mature. Let seeds drop naturally or collect and replant them later.

Seed Sources

  • Ledgerwood Seeds – Carlsbad, carries Ammi majus seeds. (619) 729-3282
  • Heirloom Garden Seed Co. – Guerneville, CA, carries Daucus carota seeds. (707) 887-9129

Refrain for Fab Fruits: Strawberry Yields Forever

Grow Delicious Strawberries in Your Garden

Gardeners who grow strawberries will tell you there’s nothing more delicious than a berry pulled out of the garden and popped right into your mouth. Bursting with flavor, vine-ripened strawberries are soft, juicy and unforgettable.

Why Strawberries Are a Garden Favorite

A low-growing perennial with pretty green foliage and small white flowers, the strawberry is the quickest cropping of all garden fruits. Now is the perfect time to plant strawberries, which are available at many nurseries.

Types of Strawberries

  • Traditional Strawberries: These are the classic berries used in dishes like strawberry shortcake.
  • Alpine Strawberries: Smaller berries descended from wild Italian varieties, Alpines have a strong, raspberry-like flavor and are considered a gourmet delicacy in Europe.

In our mild climate, Alpine strawberries and many traditional types—such as Seascape, Quinault, and the pink-flowered Pink Panda—bear fruit year-round, with the heaviest harvest in spring.

Strawberry Planting Guidelines

  • Choose the Right Spot: Select a sunny location that stays cool in summer. Use shade cloth or plant tall annuals (sunflowers, corn, beans) to protect plants during hot days.
  • Prepare the Soil: Strawberries thrive in light, well-draining soil. Amend generously with compost or planter mix.
  • Try Containers: Containers provide excellent drainage and control over soil conditions, reducing weeds and pests. Use pots with drainage holes and pre-moistened potting mix. Allow 2–4 inches of space between plants.
  • Plant with Care: Position the crown (the thick center of the plant) properly—¼ to ½ inch below and above ground level. Match the container depth if replanting. Firm soil around roots after planting.
  • Use Bare-Root Plants: These affordable, dormant plants are soil-free and easy to plant. Great for planting large quantities economically.
  • Fertilize Wisely:
    • Before planting: Use organic nitrogen-rich fertilizers such as blood meal, bat guano, or high-nitrogen bone meal.
    • At flowering: Apply bone meal for phosphorus and potassium. Limit nitrogen to avoid excess leafy growth with no fruit.
    • Schedule: Fertilize in-ground plants monthly; container plants every two weeks.

Where to Find Strawberry Plants

A variety of nurseries carry strawberry plants:

  • Laguna Nursery – Laguna
  • Laguna Hills Nursery – Lake Forest
  • Armstrong Garden Center – Santa Ana
  • M&M Nursery – Orange (has bare-root)
  • Kitano’s Garden Center – La Palma (has bare-root)

Good Treehouse Timber

Top Trees for Treehouses: Recommendations from Arborists

Start with a Professional Evaluation

Before building a treehouse, consult a certified arborist to ensure your chosen tree is structurally sound. Arborists Alden Kelley and James Barry frequently help homeowners evaluate trees for their suitability.

It’s also wise to hire a civil engineer to draw up plans and check with your city to determine whether a building permit is required.

Recommended Trees for Treehouses

Below is a list of trees considered strong and stable enough for supporting treehouses:

  • Avocado
  • California Sycamore (Platanus racemosa)
  • Camphor Tree (Cinnamomum camphora)
  • Cape Chestnut (Calodendrum capense)
  • Catalpa (Catalpa bignonioides or C. speciosa)
  • Chinese Elm (Ulmus parvifolia)
  • Coast Live Oak (Quercus agrifolia)
  • Evergreen Pear (Pyrus kawakamii)
  • Holly Oak (Quercus ilex)
  • Lemon (large-sized varieties)
  • Lily-of-the-Valley Tree (Crinodendron patagua)
  • Modesto Ash (Fraxinus velutina ‘Modesto’)
  • Fruitless Mulberry (Morus alba, fruitless varieties)
  • Olive (Olea europaea)
  • Pecan (Carya illinoensis)
  • Sawleaf Zelkova (Zelkova serrata)
  • Southern California Black Walnut (Juglans californica)
  • Tulip Tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)