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* Corsican mint: Low-growing, matting mint with tiny, round, bright green leaves and light purple flowers in summer. Gives off fragrance when stepped on. Sun or partial shade.

* Erodium: Low-growing relative of the geranium, generally reaching 3 to 6 inches high. Flowers spring through fall in a variety of colors, including white, rose-pink and white with lavender veins. Part shade (except for E. reichardii, which requires full shade).

* Ivy: Many of the low-growing, small-leaved forms of ivy make good pathway plants, especially needlepoint ivy, which stays compact. Most ivy takes sun or part shade.

* Korean grass (Zoysia tenuifolia): Creeping, fine-textured, mounding grass gives mossy effect. Needs little water once established. Full sun to light shade.

* Mondo grass (O. japonicus ‘Kyoto Dwarf’): Dark green, straplike 4- to 6-inch-long leaves in tight clumps. Takes full sun to part shade.

* Moss (Irish and Scotch): Good ground covers of dense, mosslike foliage, especially along the coast. Useful for filling in gaps between stepping stones. Irish moss is generally green and Scotch moss golden-green. Full sun to partial shade.

* Pennyroyal: Creeping, low-growing mint with round, 1-inch leaves and small lavender flowers. Strong mint flavor and fragrance. Needs moist site and shade to partial sun.

* Thyme: There are several low-growing thyme that make good ground covers. ‘Doone Valley’ is an unusual matting thyme with dark green foliage mottled with light gold. It grows just 3 inches tall, has red-purple flowers in summer and releases a lemon scent when stepped on.

Woolly thyme creates a flat to undulating mat of 2- to 3-inch high small, gray woolly foliage. Elfin thyme is a tight matting plant with green foliage and soft pink flowers in summer. All thymes take sun to partial shade.

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Keep the following tips in mind when growing impatiens:

* They need full shade to partial sun. Along the coast, they can be planted in some sun. Inland they need almost a full day of shade.

* Place in-ground plants in rich, well-draining soil. Amend clay soil by 50% with homemade or bagged compost. Containerized impatiens should be planted in a potting mix that is heavy on peat moss. Mix two-thirds potting soil with one-third peat moss.

* Never let impatiens dry out between waterings, but don’t keep them constantly soggy. Water when the first inch of soil is approaching dryness.

* Keep the plants bushy and healthy by fertilizing every two to four weeks with a well-balanced fertilizer.

* Impatiens can be grown from established plants, seed and cuttings, although seeds are difficult to get up because they require high heat. Cuttings are fairly easy to grow when the weather is warm. Make sure to keep them moist and protected while rooting is taking place.

* Once established, impatiens aren’t susceptible to pests and disease. They do freeze, however, so they must be protected when the temperature dips.

* When impatiens become leggy, cut them back to 6 inches. New growth will quickly appear, and they will become fuller and bushier and flower more readily.

* Each December or January, when growth has slowed, cut impatiens to 2 inches from the ground, which will cause them to come back strong in early spring. (This is not necessary along the coast, where impatiens will continue to flower well year-round. Simply prune back a little if they become leggy.)

If they are unsightly after the December or January pruning, containerized impatiens can be moved to an out-of-the-way site. In-ground plants can be interplanted with winter bloomers such as pansies and begonias.

To find the Accent Miracle Collection of impatiens with sales benefiting the Komen Breast Cancer Foundation, visit http: //www.miracleplants.com.

Allspice, also an ornamental plant, is surprisingly easy to grow, says Roger Meyer, co-owner of Valley Vista Kiwi in Fountain Valley.

“Allspice is one of the few plants I’ve found that will thrive on the north side of a building in a shady spot,” he says. “It grows well in a 5- to 15-gallon pot for many years.”

Using exotic spices in the kitchen brings a new dimension to your cooking, says Tina Silber of Papaya Tree Nursery, where you can get a mature cinnamon tree in a 1-gallon container for $28 and wher other spice plants range from $15 for curry to $25 for allspice.

“I use many fresh spices, especially allspice leaves and capers,” she says.

Silber uses allspice in everything from desserts to main dishes. One of her favorite treats is to add 10 fresh allspice leaves to 3 pounds of peeled and cubed sweet potatoes or yams. To this she mixes in 1 cup of coconut milk, an 8-ounce can of pineapple cubes with juice, 2 ounces of water and half a cup of sugar. She cooks it uncovered in a 350-degree oven until the yams or sweet potatoes are al dente.

Allspice tea is another favorite. Silber adds 20 leaves to four or five cups of water and boils for 10 minutes. She strains and sweetens to taste.

The following spice plants grow well here.

* Allspice (Pimenta dioica): Allspice plants grow so well in Southern California that David Silber, who founded Papaya Tree nursery 13 years ago, can’t imagine why every yard doesn’t have one.

This evergreen plant has deep green leaves and will grow to 8 feet, but it becomes lanky at that height and is best kept pruned to 5 or 6 feet. It is not picky about sun exposure, tolerating full sun or partial shade. Although it can handle extremes in temperatures, it is best planted in a sheltered location. It grows well in most soils with good drainage.

Feed monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer spring through fall. During winter, fertilize once with a food high in micronutrients that contains no nitrogen. Water allspice when the soil approaches dryness or when young leaves begin to droop.

Allspice leaves are extremely aromatic–tasting and smelling like a mixture of spices, including cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves. Commercially, the fruit is used to make allspice powder, but fruiting requires male and female trees. For the same taste, fresh leaves can be used. (When dried, leaves lose their flavor and aroma.)

Though the flower buds are used as spices, many people let the plant flower. Caper bushes produce stunning 3- to 4-inch white flowers with iridescent purple stamens.

When picked small, caper buds are mild. Larger buds that are about to bloom have a richer, fuller flavor.

The caper bush, which is drought-tolerant once established, should not be over-watered. Water only during its growing season, from spring through November. Let the soil dry out between waterings. Container plants should be elevated to keep the roots dry.

Plant in an area with excellent drainage, amending with 50% cactus mix for ground and container growing. The plant will handle full sun, but the flower buds stay fresh longer if grown in partial shade. During active growth, fertilize every two months with an all-purpose fertilizer.

To grow enough caper flowers for pickling, plant two or three bushes.

Chop cinnamon leaves and use like powdered cinnamon. They also taste great in tea mixed with allspice leaves.

April is the perfect time to plant alpines from plants or seed. Here are some tips:

* Plant alpines in a part-shade location. Morning sun and afternoon shade is preferable.

* If the soil is high in clay, amend with homemade or bagged compost by 25% to 50%.

* Place alpine plants at the same level as you find them in their container. It is important not to plant the crown (the center mound where new growth orginates) too deep, or the plant will rot. Place the crown too high, and the plant will dry out.

* When planting in a container, use a high-quality potting soil that is high in perlite or pumice.

* Alpines don’t need much room to grow. Plant in-ground and container plants 3 to 4 inches apart for a thick, lush look.

* Growing from seed can be challenging but is possible:

First, refrigerate seed for five to seven days. Then sprinkle seeds on top of a seed-starting mixture and mist well. Put in a warm spot, such as a sunny window, until the plants come up, which can take two weeks to a month. Keep moist while germinating, but not overly wet.

Once the plants are up, move them to a cooler location to prevent the growth of soil bacteria, which will quickly kill young plants. In the future, alpines will reseed themselves if they like their growing location.

* Water alpines when the soil is approaching dryness. Don’t keep overly wet or too dry.

* Alpines are heavy feeders and require a fertilizer high in phosphorus for good berry production. Use a 10-30-10 fertilizer or bone meal, according to package directions. Feed container plants every two weeks and in-ground plants monthly. Fertilize seed-grown alpines when they have three true leaves using a combination of fish emulsion and seaweed or kelp extract.

* Alpines don’t produce well in hot weather. Berries growing during heat spells may become misshapen, because the pollen becomes too hot and isn’t as viable. Pinch malformed berries out to make way for more appetizing ones.

Alpine strawberries will be available at Mother’s Market health-food chain (stores include Huntington Beach, Costa Mesa and Irvine) in the next few weeks and at the Green Scene Garden Show on April 24-25 at the Fullerton Arboretum, (714) 278-3404.

Plants are available now through W. Atlee Burpee & Co., (800) 888-1447.

Seeds can be purchased through Bountiful Gardens, (707) 459-6410.

A. Cordifolius ‘Little Carlow’ will tolerate partial shade. The 3- to 4-foot-high plant has dark violet-blue flowers. A. lateriflorus ‘Prince’ has deep purple leaves during the summer and is covered with mauve-pink flowers in the fall.

Now is a good time to transplant asters, many of which will bloom into November. Keep the following planting tips in mind:

* Plant most asters in full sun. A few varieties tolerate some shade, such as the divaricatus and cordifolius types. When deciding on a location, keep in mind that asters are dormant during the winter months.

* Place asters in an area where they will receive regular water. If the area is a dry one, amend with 25% compost to improve the soil’s water-holding capacity. Plant at the same height as the asters are in their container. When planting several, place them 24 to 30 inches apart.

* Asters do well in containers. Use at least a 12-inch pot, high-quality potting soil and a slow-release fertilizer.

* Keep asters well-watered but not soggy.

* Fertilize ground-grown asters monthly with an all-purpose fertilizer during their growth period, which is generally March through November.

* Don’t prune asters during their active growth period, especially in summer. It won’t improve their bloom, and may even cause fewer flowers come fall.

* Shelter plants from strong Santa Ana winds, which can cause damage. Staking taller types may be necessary.

* Asters are generally pest- and disease-free, although you may occasionally have powdery mildew in the late fall. The best prevention is to avoid overhead watering.

* When they finish flowering, asters go dormant. Cut them down to the ground at this point, leaving a small amount of basal foliage, which will stay during the winter months. Come March or April, the plant will grow again.

* Divide asters every two or three years in February or March or they will lose their vitality. To divide, dig the plants up and select the strongest pieces, eliminating any older, woody sections. Replant them in the same location.

Canyon Creek Nursery, 3527 Dry Creek Road, Oroville, CA 95965. (530) 533-2166. Catalog $2.

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NOVEMBER / Planting Aster (Compositae — Perennials — All zones)

There are more than 600 species of true asters. They come in a wide range of colors and sizes, from 6 inches to 6 feet high. Now is a good time to transplant asters, many of which will bloom into this month. Here are planting guidelines.

Transplant at the same height as original pot.

Keep soil moist.

Asters need regular watering. If the soil is dry, amed it with 25% compost to improve its water-holding capacity. When planting several asters, place them 24 to 30 inches apart.

* Find cabbage plants at the nursery, or for more variety, grow your own from seed.

Plant seeds about half an inch deep in small containers. Seedlings should emerge in 7 to 10 days, but don’t transplant out in the garden for about five weeks. Plants should be at least 3 inches high. (Avoid plants becoming root bound, however.)

* Plant in full or part sun. Amend before planting with homemade or bagged compost, which should be worked into the top 6 to 8 inches of the soil.

Do not mulch around cabbage, as mulch will attract several pests that can be damaging, including sow bugs and earwigs. To keep weeds down, cover the area with plastic and make holes for planting.

* Space early cabbage types about 18 inches apart and larger varieties at least 2 feet apart.

* Containerize cabbage. Grow three early-season varieties in a half-barrel-size container or six to eight baby heads of cabbage in the same size pot.

When growing in containers, use a high-quality potting soil, bolstered–according to package directions–with a well-balanced organic fertilizer that contains micronutrients.

* Larger cabbage types tend to fall over toward the end of their growth cycle. Avoid rotting by supporting the cabbage so that it doesn’t come in contact with wet soil.

* Cabbage roots are shallow, so keep the plants moist but not soggy. They generally require very little water during the rainy months.

* Foliar feed cabbage weekly with a solution of sea kelp or seaweed. Mix the fertilizer into a watering can and pour on the plant.

* Watch out for pests. Besides sow bugs and earwigs, aphids and cabbage loopers also are attracted to cabbage.

Control aphids by spraying plants with a strong, steady stream of water twice a week. Cabbage loopers are green inchworms that can quickly eat a plant. They should be hand-picked or treated with BT (bacillus thuringiensis). Or avoid them altogether by covering your cabbage with floating row cover, which prevents the moths from laying their eggs on the foliage.

* Harvest cabbage heads when they have grown for the time specified on the seed packet and have reached the correct size. Don’t wait too long, or you’ll end up with cracked heads that have lost flavor. Pull up the whole plant when harvesting.

The California Organic Gardening Club meets Oct. 22 and on the third Thursday of each month at 7 p.m. at 9621 Bixby Ave., Garden Grove. Information: (714) 761-8130 or (714) 971-7954.

Stevia is another little-known herb that thrives in Southern California.

“They call Stevia the sweet herb of Paraguay, because its leaves are 100 times sweeter than sugar yet it is said to have no detrimental effects for diabetics,” says Billings. “Everyone is always amazed when they eat a leaf because it tastes just like pure sugar.”

Although many unusual herbs aren’t well-known, they’re beginning to catch on.

“There has been an incredible explosion in herb interest,” says Billings. “When we opened our doors at the nursery 15 years ago, we had just seven plants on our list, and we didn’t think people would buy them. One of them was Italian parsley.”

More people are becoming aware of exotic herbs, agrees Michael Jordan, a professional chef, who is now general manager at Pinot Provence in Costa Mesa, a restaurant that uses a lot of fresh herbs in their cooking and places an herbal bouquet–instead of flowers–on every table.

“Supermarket shelves are beginning to fill with uncommon, exotic herbs that you wouldn’t have seen 10 years ago,” says Jordan, who is also an avid gardener.

“Not only do a variety of herbs give foods a wonderful taste, it is a very healthful way of cooking. We use herbs and fresh vegetables to flavor our meats and fish, which creates light, healthy food with out-of-the-ordinary taste.”

Growing Unusual Herbs

Now is a good time to plant culinary herbs. They can set down roots before winter, then take off in spring.

Although many culinary herbs are warm-weather plants, most don’t go dormant in winter, and some provide usable, yet more limited foliage in the cold months.

Growing unusual culinary herbs is similar to growing more common herb types. For best results, keep the following growing tips in mind.

* Separate your culinary herbs. “In order to maintain their vigor, culinary herbs should be cut frequently,” says Billings. “They won’t get pruned enough if they’re out in the landscape or mixed in with annual vegetable plants.”

* Select a sunny or partially shady spot with excellent drainage. If your soil is hard clay, amend with at least 50% organic matter, such as homemade or bagged compost. Also add organic fertilizer, according to package directions.

* Use containers when space is limited, or if your soil is too hard to work and doesn’t provide ample drainage.

“The important thing about container growing is to make sure the potting soil isn’t fine,” says Billings. “The soil needs a good amount of chunky humus so that the roots have something to wrap themselves around. We suggest using high-quality, coarse potting soil and adding more perlite at a rate of 30%.”

Also add a slow-release organic fertilizer to the mix.

* Water herbs daily until they are established and begin to show new growth. Then keep the soil moist but not soggy.

* Plant culinary herbs at the same level as you found them in the original nursery container.

* Only fertilize culinary herbs with a slow-release organic fertilizer when you see a problem with the plant and know the soil pH is between 6.5 and 7.00. This can be tested with a kit from a home supply store or nursery. Soil that does not test in this range should be corrected. Consult with a nursery professional or soil lab on the proper amendments to use.

Unusual Culinary Herbs

There are thousands of little-known culinary herbs. The following represent a small sampling of easy-to-grow plants sure to add interest to your garden and zip to your cooking. You’ll find some in specialty nurseries and many are available through mail-order. All are suitable for container growing.:

To keep the plant growing well and looking good, harvest chives at the ground level. Grow in full sun to part shade and divide every three years when they produce a large clump.

To dry, cut new leaves with the stems and hang upside down in a dry, dark place. Once dry, put leaves in an airtight container and powder as you need them.

In our mild climate, this plant produces leaves most of the year. Keep well watered and avoid letting the plant flower, as flowering tends to burn the plant out and shorten its life.

* Caraway thyme (Thymus herba-barona): This ancient herb is a true thyme that makes a great ground cover, as it readily spreads, looking stunning in spring with profuse pink blooms. It imparts caraway flavor to foods and can be used with beef and in breads, and any other dishes that lend themselves to thyme and caraway.

Good to plant between pavers and in small patches. Releases a pleasant fragrance when stepped on. Also makes a good hanging basket. Keep moist and make sure the drainage is good.

* Conehead thyme (Coriothymus capitatum): Technically not a thyme, this plant resembles a thyme, but has a much sturdier root system and is very easy to grow. It is a low-growing plant, reaching just eight to 10 inches tall and spreading 2 to 3 feet.

It has eye-catching purple flowers in early summer, which, along with the leaves, have a spicy, jalapen~o pepper flavor. Use fresh or dried as you would any spicy herb in stir-fries, breads and with meat.

Plant in full sun and expect plant to grow slowly for the first year. It is self-cleaning, not requiring pruning or shearing.

Using Fresh Herbs

What to do with all those fresh herbs from your garden? “Use as many as you can when cooking,” says Florent Marneau, executive chef of Pinot Provence in Costa Mesa, who suggests the following:

* Use fresh herbs as a base for salads. Then mix in other vegetables such as gourmet lettuce, carrots, cucumbers and tomatoes.

* Marinate with fresh herbs. To do so, mix olive oil with a small amount of garlic, salt and cracked pepper, and then add a handful of chopped herb of your choice.

* Grill meat and vegetables over coals that have been covered with herb leaves, which will impart a subtle flavor to the meat.

* Blend fresh herbs into soup right before serving.

* Mix herbs into desserts, such as fruit salad, sorbet and ice cream. Top cake and pie with fresh herbs and herb flowers.

* Make herbal oils and vinegars.

* Add fresh herbs to breads.

Reach Mountain Valley Growers at (209) 338-2775 or on the Internet at http://www.mountainvalleygrowers.com. Free catalog.

The dwarf ‘Pink Sensation’ gets between 2 and 3 feet high. It has pink flowers and leaves striped with pink, cream and red. Pretoria grows 6 to 7 feet high and eventually as wide. It has yellow leaves with green stripes and bright orange flowers.

‘Ehmanii’ is a giant that grows 8 to 10 feet tall. Its magenta flowers bloom most of the year. ‘Tropicana’ is a multicolored canna with leaves striped in orange, chartreuse, red and green with a bright orange flower. It reaches 6 feet tall.

You’ll find cannas in the nursery and through mail-order. They generally come in three to five gallon cans. For best luck, keep the following growing tips in mind.

* Place cannas in full sun to light shade.

* Cannas grow well in almost any soil, including clay, so amending is often not necessary. If you prefer to amend, use homemade or bagged compost at a rate of 25 to 30 percent.

* Containerized cannas should be planted in a high-quality potting soil. They are fast growers, so plant in a pot that is one size bigger. Except for the giant 8-foot varieties, cannas do well in containers.

* Water them often, because cannas are thirsty plants. To keep the soil moist and conserve water, mulch with homemade or bagged compost. Just make sure that the ground is never soggy.

* Cannas are also heavy feeders. Fertilize on a monthly basis with a well-balanced fertilizer. Use a liquid food for container plants, and either a liquid or granular form for the ground.

* To promote continuous flowering, when a stalk has finished, don’t prune it off entirely. Instead, cut it off just below the flower pod and leave the rest of the old bloom stalk intact. The plant will create new flowers from the old stalk much more quickly than creating an entire new stalk.

* Prune cannas in the early spring, cleaning up brown leaves, old bloom stalks and any dead foliage that often appears at the center of the plant clump.

Nature’s Curiosity Shop, at 1388 Sunset Drive, Vista, is open Saturday and during the week by appointment. For a free plant list, call (760) 726-1488.

Gourds are found all over the world, but Southern California is one of the best places to grow them, says Doug Welburn, co-owner of the Welburn Gourd Farm in Fallbrook, which grows about 100,000 gourds a year. The farm is open to the public and sells gourds through mail-order.

“Gourds are like squash,” Welburn says. “They like hot weather and a lot of sun.”

It’s time to harvest gourds. Ornamental types can be used right away, but hard-shelled gourds must be cured for several months until dry and ready for use.

Many ornamental gourds can be found at the grocery store and farmers markets. Hard-shelled gourds are available through gourd suppliers.

When shopping for ornamental gourds for holiday decorations, look for ones that are firm, says Tom Baal, co-owner of the Tree Mover Tree and Gourd Farm in Palmdale, which provides mail-order dried gourds. “Never get a gourd that is mushy because this indicates rot,” he says.

To keep ornamental gourds in good shape throughout the holiday season, Ball offers a few tips:

“Keep the gourds away from heat sources because this will dry them out and cause them to rot,” he says. “To preserve them for special occasions, they can be refrigerated and removed a couple of days before.”

To prolong the life of your gourds, dunk them in a mild bleach solution and wipe them dry. This will minimize the growth of mold, which is what causes gourds to rot.

Planting

Now is the time to choose seeds for spring planting. Keep the following in mind:

* For early planting, start gourd seed indoors in seed-starting mix in February. To soften the hard outer coating, soak overnight, but no longer, before planting.

Plant 1 inch deep and cover with plastic wrap until the seeds germinate. Then place seedlings in full sun until they have four true leaves (about four to six weeks). Then they can be planted outdoors.

* Gourds can be planted in March, April or May in a sunny, warm area. Plant them on a mound and allow them to sprawl, or to conserve space, grow on a trellis.

Many of the long gourds do much better when allowed to hang. If the gourd is a large, heavy variety, it will need a very sturdy trellis. Gourds require a lot of growing room, so give them space.

* Fertilize at planting and once or twice during the growing season with a well-balanced fertilizer.

* Watch for pests such as cucumber beetle and mildew, but be cautious about how you treat them because hard-shell gourds are night bloomers and depend on night moths for pollination, says Welburn. He says to pollinate the gourds yourself if you’re not getting fruit. Pollinate the female flowers with the male flowers, which have a longer stem.

Ornamental gourds are day bloomers and generally have no difficulty with fruiting.

* Gourds will produce vines and then fruit, which will grow throughout the summer. Don’t harvest until late fall when the vines die back because green gourds will rot instead of drying.

* Use ornamental gourds as soon as you harvest. Hard-shelled gourds must be cured. This requires drying them in a well-ventilated spot outdoors and off the ground for about three months. A location with morning sun is best. The gourds will have dried by February or March. The seeds should rattle when you pick the gourd up.

* Many hard-shelled gourds develop a black mold on the skin while curing. Use a mild bleach solution to remove.

Sources:

* Lynne Everett can be reached at (949) 728-0269, or e-mail at rleverettocsouth.net

* The Artistic License Fair is today and Sunday, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. at Estancia Park, 1900 Adams Ave. Admission is free. (909) 371-6507.

ORNAMENTAL GOURDS

You’ll have the best luck with these easy growers by keeping the following tips in mind.

* For good flowering, most geraniums need a minimum of four hours a day of direct sun. Two exceptions are the peppermint-scented geranium (P. Tomentosum) and golden-leaved zonal varieties.

* Geraniums need well-drained soil, or they will rot. If planting in ground of questionable drainage, plant on a mound that is 2 inches high. This assures that the plant’s crown stays dry. No amending is suggested when planting, as geraniums generally do well in existing soil.

* To plant in containers, use two parts high-quality potting soil and one part perlite.

* Protect the roots of small potted plants from baking in the sun by placing each pot inside another container. (Make sure both have good drainage.) Stewart suggests planting in plastic containers, which retain water well, and putting those inside terra-cotta containers.

* Water geraniums when the soil surface approaches dryness. If in doubt about watering, don’t: Geraniums will take drought better than over-watering.

* Geraniums aren’t heavy feeders, but they do need some food for healthy growth and blooming. It’s optimum to feed three times a year with a well-balanced fertilizer such as a 15-15-15, although just about any fertilizer will do. For container plants, Stewart suggests using time-released food so the plants have a constant source of nutrients.

* Prune year-round blooming geraniums occasionally, when they begin to look straggly. Remove old bloom stalks and do light shaping, and the plant will continue to bloom.

* Geraniums are easy to propagate by cuttings. Cut off a piece of plant underneath a leaf node and stick the cut end into a container of moist potting soil or directly into the ground. Keep it moist but not soggy, and it should root in a month or so.

New Leaf Nurseries is at 2456 Foothill Drive, Vista, CA 92084. There will be a free scented-geranium lecture at the nursery at 9:30 a.m. on Aug. 15. (760) 726-9269.

Though they are tropical plants, plumeria are easy to grow, as long as you have a variety that is well-suited to our area, says Hunt, who offers the following growing suggestions:

* Plumeria like a sunny, warm location with protection from hot afternoon sun in inland areas. They also require excellent drainage. If ground drainage is poor, plumeria can be grown in large containers.

* You’ll find plumeria already potted or as cuttings.

To plant already potted plumeria in the ground, choose a high spot and loosen the soil, amending by 50% with an organic mulch or planting mix. Insert a stake in the ground and set the plant next to the stake on top of the soil.

Mound soil around the roots, tamping it well with your hands. Then attach the plumeria to the stake and water lightly. You can also sprinkle alyssum seeds at the plant base. The flowers will help knit the mound when they grow.

Follow the same procedure when planting in a pot. For soil, use a cactus mix, or create soil by mixing three parts high-quality potting soil, one part peat moss, one part perlite and one part sand. Pre-moisten the potting soil and don’t water for a couple of days after planting.

When purchasing a cutting, ask the salesperson if it has been dried. If this hasn’t been done, put the cutting in a bright, arid location for one to two weeks until the end is dried. Then place the end in water and shake off excess, next dipping the cutting in a rooting hormone and slipping it into a container of damp perlite to about an inch.

Place in a location with bright light, watering only once or twice a week when the perlite dries out. In two weeks to a month, the cutting should root, and you can repot or plant it in the ground, as described above.

* Plumeria are susceptible to rotting and should not be allowed to sit in soggy soil. In the summer months when a plumeria is in active growth, it may want a drink every day, but during cooler months, it will require much less. Don’t water during dormancy.

* Feed plumeria a well-balanced fertilizer that contains micronutrients once a month during the growing season.

* Watch for pests–including giant whitefly, thrips and spider mites–which can be treated with ultra-fine horticultural oil spray. Help prevent these pests by washing the plant off with a hard stream of water once a week.

* Harvest flowers by bending them at an angle and snapping them off. Place them in water immediately after picking, which will help them seal up quickly.

*

A meeting on plumeria and a sale of unusual cuttings will be held at 2 p.m. July 19 at the South Coast Botanical Gardens, 26300 Crenshaw Blvd., Rolling Hills Estates. The meeting is free; $5 for admission to the garden. (310) 544-6815.

Stokes Tropicals, a mail-order tropical-plant company based in New Iberia, La., carries a variety of plumeria. Call (800) 624-9706 Or visit its Web site at http://www.stokestropicals.com

There are more than 600 varieties of mint to choose from, with new ones cropping up everyday because mint is easy to hybridize. There are standard green mints, as well as variegated mints that come in red, purple, white, cream and silver. Some mint plants grow tall, while others stay close to the ground.

One of the mints at the Herb Faire is Mint-the-Best, which is one of Kerins’ favorites. It has dark green leaves with a pure spearmint flavor and grows about 18 inches tall.

Bergamot is a peppermint with a slight orange flavor that grows to 2 feet. Apple mint has leaves that have a mild apple fragrance, and chocolate mint tastes like chocolate. Pennyroyal is a mint that is often used to ward off fleas.

Mint grows year-round in our mild climate and can be planted at any time. Keep the following growing tips in mind:

* Containerize mint. Mint is an aggressive grower, easily spreading by vigorous underground stems. Grow it in containers to prevent it from taking over your yard. Mint thrives in just about any container, including hanging baskets and window boxes.

* Plant mint in high-quality potting mix that drains well but doesn’t dry out too quickly. Use a potting soil with polymers or add some to your potting mix. These are gel-like particles that hold water, releasing it to plants when the soil dries.

* Grow mint in partial sun inland and in full or partial sun along the coast.

* Give mint plenty of water. As long as you don’t let it go thirsty, mint will grow well. Remember that pots dry out quickly, especially during hot weather. Watering every day may be necessary.

* Feed mint once or twice a year with a well-balanced liquid fertilizer that has been diluted half strength.

* Use mint as often to keep the plants well pruned and healthy looking. Encourage bushy growth by keeping flowers pinched back.

The Orange County Herb Faire runs through Sunday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., at the Fullerton Arboretum. Admission $5; children under 17 and parking free. Call (714) 278-3404.

* Plant in full sun in an area that gets a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight a day.

* When growing as a vine, choose an area where the plant will be able to spread, because wisteria vines can grow indefinitely, some reaching 120 feet. The vine will need a sturdy structure to grow on, such as an arbor, patio roof or fence.

* To grow as a tree or shrub, buy one that has been trained in this manner or prune and train it. To do so, remove all but one main stem and stake this securely with plastic horticultural tape.

When the plant has reached the height you wish the main branches to emerge from, pinch the plant at that level to force branching and rub off any buds that form below this point.

* Provide good drainage. Wisteria isn’t fussy about soil, but it can’t tolerate wet feet. Check drainage in an area by filling a 2-foot-deep hole with water until it will no longer drain. When you return 24 hours later, it should have completely drained. If there is standing water, choose a more well-draining site.

Before planting, break up hard clay by amending with one-third planter’s mix and digging down 2 1/2 feet.

* Plant wisteria with the graft union an inch or two above ground.

Once growth occurs, water wisteria a couple of times a week when there is no rain. Established plants 3 years or older need a good soaking once a week in warm weather.

* Fertilize three times a year. In spring and summer, use a fertilizer high in nitrogen, which will promote overall growth, such as a 16-16-16. In fall, use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium such as a 5-20-10. This will encourage strong roots and good flowering.

* To grow wisteria in a container, choose a pot that has at least 20-gallon capacity. Use a high-quality potting soil and water every three to five days, depending on the weather. Feed as you would in-ground plants.

* After a year of growth, prune wisteria when plant finishes blooming in late spring or early summer. Trim to control size and shape.

For more information, consult “Wisterias: A Comprehensive Guide,” which is available for $33 through Wayside Gardens, (800) 845-1124.

There are two main types of arugula seeds, which can be found in nurseries and through mail-order. Standard arugula has smooth, green, almost oak-shaped leaves. Italian wild rustic arugula has smaller, more finely lobed leaves. The latter type is said to have a heartier taste that makes a great last-minute addition to pasta dishes and atop pizza.

There are a few things to keep in mind:

* Plant arugula in an area that gets at least six hours of sun daily. In a shadier area, arugula will grow but produce less flavorful leaves.

* To plant in the ground, simply loosen the area with a rake to about 4 inches. Unless your soil is very heavy clay, amending isn’t necessary. Broadcast seed in a patch, or plant in a row, then cover with quarter-inch of soil and water thoroughly. Keep soil moist while the seeds are germinating, which should occur in five to seven days.

* When space is limited, arugula thrives in containers. Fill the pot with a pre-moistened seed-starting formula or high quality potting soil. Sprinkle seeds on top and cover with one-eighth- to one-quarter-inch of soil and water.

* Keep arugula plants moist but not soggy. When it isn’t raining, they will need water every four to five days, depending on your soil type and the plants’ location. Container plants will need to be watered more often in dry weather.

* No fertilizer is required, unless your soil is nutrient poor. To fertilize, add organic food at the time of planting, such as a 5-2-2, or use an organic liquid fertilizer when the plants have their first set of true leaves.

* Sow seed every two to three weeks for a continuous harvest of young tender leaves at peak flavor.

* Keep arugula thinned out so that the flavor develops in the remaining leaves and the plant doesn’t get weedy and flower quickly.

* For a free Burpee catalog featuring two types of arugula, call (800) 888-1447 or try the company on the Internet: www.burpee.com

The Ollalie blackberry also grows well here. It has very sweet, firm, large and long berries.

Most raspberries are difficult to grow in our climate because they don’t like hot summer days. Willamette, however, does well here as long as it’s kept watered and placed in an area with afternoon shade.

Easy-to-grow berry plants fit into most gardens. Keep the following tips in mind:

* Raspberries, blackberries and boysenberries are vining plants that tend to sprawl and do best when trained on a trellis or wall in a weed-free area. All need at least a half day of full sun to produce well.

* If it is raining and you aren’t able to plant, keep the root ball moist. When waiting more than a week to plant, pot up the canes in planting mix and keep them watered until you’re ready to plant in the ground.

* Before planting bare-root berries, check your soil’s pH, which can be done with a kit found in the nursery. Blackberries and boysenberries like a soil from 5.5 to 7; raspberries are more particular, requiring 6 to 6.8.

If you need to acidify your soil, amend with peat moss and gypsum. When soil is too acidic, add agricultural lime. If the soil is heavy clay, add planting mix or well-aged compost.

* Don’t add fertilizer to the planting hole, as the roots are very sensitive and may burn. Six weeks after planting, fertilize with a well-balanced food, staying away from the plant’s base. Thereafter, fertilize yearly, when you prune, with blood meal and bone meal or tree and shrub food.

* Plant berry vines 1 inch deeper than they grew at the nursery and 2 to 3 feet apart.

* Prune berries in their second year in December, January or early February.

Remove at the ground all canes that fruited the previous season and leave new canes to bear the next season.

* Keep berry vines well-watered. Mulching with a 2- to 3-inch layer of bagged mulch or well-aged manure will keep the plants moist and cut down on weeds.

Sonoma Antique Apple Nursery offers a free catalog. Call (707) 433-6420.

* Azalea. They can survive indoors only for two to four weeks before they begin to suffer from the warmth and dry air. Plant in a container or in the ground in a partly shady or shady location.

To plant in a pot, Hakes suggests using a high-quality potting soil and placing it in a pot that is one size larger than the original container.

For ground planting, dig a hole that is twice the size of the azalea’s root ball and completely fill with azalea mix. Plant directly in the mix.

* Forced bulbs. Many nursery professionals advise throwing away bulbs that have been forced to bloom in water, sand or pebbles, since this method uses all their food reserves. Those that have been forced in soil, however, can often be planted in the ground and allowed to resume their normal growth cycle.

Amaryllis do well when replanted and may even get a repeat bloom in summer, which is their natural flowering time, says Hakes. As soon as amaryllis bulbs finish blooming, plant them outside in well-draining soil or repot in high-quality potting soil and fertilize.

Other bulbs, such as narcissus, can be saved until the following fall and winter when they can be planted. Shake off dirt and apply sulfur dust, which will prevent molding. Label and store in a cardboard box or paper bag in a cool place like the garage.

* Chrysanthemum. Blooms on these plants last for two to three weeks indoors. They require a sunny window and should be kept moist, but not overly wet. When blooms fade, plant outside in a well-draining, full-sun location that has been amended with homemade or bagged compost.

* Cyclamen. These popular gifts are often watered to death. Cyclamen are corms, bulb-like roots that require a modest amount of water. Let the plant dry slightly between watering.

Cyclamen grow best outdoors because they like cold weather. Do not keep them indoors longer than two weeks. They flower in autumn and winter and go dormant during hot weather, although when planted in a sheltered location that gets indirect light, they can give year-round blooms, says Matsuoka.

* Kalanchoe. These colorful succulents will bloom indoors for several weeks. Keep in medium to bright light and let the plant go almost dry between watering. Once kalanchoe is done blooming, it can be kept indoors, although Matsuoka feels that they do better outdoors. They grow in any exposure, from shade to full sun, and will do well in a container or the ground. When planting in the ground, make certain that the drainage is good.

* Poinsettias. This hallmark of the holiday season lasts for a couple of months indoors and can then be planted outdoors in the spring. While indoors, keep them in bright, indirect light and water when the soil is approaching dryness. Also fertilize with a liquid fertilizer at half-strength every two weeks.

Plant the poinsettia outside in late March in an area with at least a half day of full sun. Make sure the soil drains well. If necessary, add sponge rock and azalea mix to lighten the soil. To get blooms next year, make sure to plant in an area that is not exposed to street lights, says Matsuoka.

Poinsettias need 12 hours of darkness a day starting in October to bloom.

* Topiaries. Topiaries usually come in pots that are too small for their foliage, creating a top-heavy plant. Repot them as soon as possible in a pot twice as large in a high-quality potting soil.

Topiaries created with herbs, such as rosemary, can be kept indoors during the holidays but should be placed outdoors once the festivities end.

Ivy topiaries can grow indoors, but watch for spider mites. If you see these small red insects that discolor leaves and cause webbing, treat with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Mites thrive in dry conditions. Prevent an infestation by spraying the plant down once a week outdoors.

Other popular types include the upright grower Aspen with its white frilly flowers and pink centers and ‘Peach Parfait,’ a hanging type that has peach flowers and yellow centers.

If you keep a few growing tips in mind, a Christmas cactus will provide reliable, profuse blooms every holiday season.

* Place Christmas cactuses in an area of the garden where they will receive filtered sun. During hot months, put them in the coolest area of the garden, such as under trees or shrubs.

* Indoor-grown Christmas cactuses should be placed in the coolest room of the house. Buds will drop if the room is too warm. Keep plants away from heating and air-conditioning ducts.

* For flower buds to form, the plants must receive 10 to 12 hours of darkness per day beginning at the end of September. Make sure that outdoor plants aren’t exposed to street lights at night, which can affect bud formation. Place indoor plants in a room where you usually don’t turn on the lights at night. A room with an eastern exposure is best.

* Water when the plant is barely damp. Williams suggests testing the soil with a bamboo barbecue skewer. If it comes out dry, it’s time to water. If it’s wet, wait another day or so and test again.

* Fertilize every other watering with a half-strength solution of a liquid fertilizer, such as a 10-10-5. Don’t fertilize during their dormant period from mid-September through mid-February.

* To keep a plant growing upright, prune in February by twisting two or three joints off each stem, which will cause the plant to branch out at each joint and become shrubbier. (Don’t do this until the plant is two or three years old.) Hanging plants don’t usually require pruning.

* Repot only when a plant has become root-bound and there are roots coming out of the bottom of the pot or the water rushes through when you water. Plant in a damp mixture of 60% peat moss and 40% perlite in a pot that is 2 inches bigger. Stimulate new growth by cutting a quarter inch to a half inch off the roots. Wait two or three days to water.

* Watch for pests, such as scale, mealybugs, aphids and cabbage worms. Treat worms with bacillus thuringiensis and other pests with soap spray.

For Rainbow Gardens’ full-color catalog ($2), call (760) 758-4290.

Bromeliads are also very easy to care for. They need water only every 10 days, and they don’t require fertilizing.

Bromeliads are native to South America but tolerant of many climates. There are a number of varieties, the most famous being the pineapple. Most are epiphytic by nature, meaning they like to grow suspended from trees or other vertical objects, though there are many types that can be grown in soil. Tillandsias thrive suspended from trees, while others do well in containers. There are bromeliads with tall, elegant flowers, such as the guzmanias, and others with colorful leaves, such as the neoregelias.

Bromeliads tend to bloom in spring and fall outdoors, but you can find them flowering in stores throughout the year.

Take home a bromeliad now, and it will continue to bloom for several weeks–maybe months–indoors or outdoors. Once the bloom fades, that portion of the plant will eventually die, but not before it creates a whole new plant that is ready to bloom.

In nature, bromeliads receive nourishment from the air or from liquid and debris that collect in the cup that forms at the center of their leaves. It is from this cup that each plant’s showy flowers usually emerge.

Those who grow bromeliads tend to do so because of the unusual look they give to the garden.

Archeologist Sylvia Meluzin of Placentia collects tillandsias and neoregelias because her odd-shaped garden calls for vertical landscaping.

“The idea of growing plants on trees and other suspended objects really struck my fancy,” says Meluzin, a member of the Orange County Bromeliad Society. “The silhouette of an epiphytic plant is different depending on the angle from which you view it. My hanging bromeliads give the garden a sculptural, three-dimensional look.”

To succeed, keep the following tips in mind.

* Water properly. Bromeliads are accustomed to jungle life where it rains and then dries out before it rains again. Water the flower cup and soil and then don’t water again until the flower cup is dry, Kent says.

“Although keeping water in the flower cup at all times is sometimes suggested, it’s not a good idea because it will rot out the flower,” he says. “Over-watering will cause the flowers and leaves to brown.”

* Potted bromeliads need excellent drainage or they will probably rot.

* Protect delicate varieties from excessive rain. Though most bromeliads can withstand wet weather as long as they have good drainage, some (such as Tillandsia tectorum) will rot in successive downpours, says Meluzin, who suggests covering this hanging plant with plastic after a first rain.

* Protect epiphytic bromeliads from dry, dehydrating weather. To compensate for water loss, mist twice a day during really hot summer days or Santa Ana winds.

* Opt for containers. Though some bromeliads can be grown in the ground, they require excellent drainage or they will quickly rot. Most don’t need a lot of room and grow well in pots or hanging from trees.

* Repot when there is no lateral room for new plants.

* Use plastic 20-pound-weight fishing twine to suspend tillandsias from trees. When the tree branches grow and the twine becomes too snug, remove and reattach. Tillandsias can also be hung from hooks or other free-standing vertical objects.

* Though bromeliads don’t require pruning, old flower stalks and foliage may be removed when they become unsightly.

* Neglect them a little. “Bromeliads do best when you don’t love them to death,” Kent says.

* The Orange County Bromeliad Society meets every third Saturday of the month (except in December) from 10 a.m. to noon at 1621 E. Lambert Road, La Habra. (562) 943-9829.

For best results growing chard, keep the following tips in mind.

* Rather than planting seed in the ground, Swiss chard does best when sown in containers and transplanted to the garden at 3 or 4 inches high.

Sow seed half an inch deep in an all-purpose, porous seed-starting mix and set container in filtered light until the seedlings emerge, which should occur in 10 days to 2 1/2 weeks, depending on the weather. (The warmer the weather, the shorter the germination time.)

Keep the seeds moist but not soggy. Once seedlings emerge, gradually put the plants in full sun, then plant in their permanent home.

* Plant in full sun in an area where the chard will receive good air circulation, as they are susceptible to mildew.

* Give the plant regular, even watering, but don’t let the soil get overly wet. Try not to splash water on the leaves.

* Chard is not a heavy feeder. Two to three weeks after transplanting, feed with an all-purpose, balanced organic vegetable food. Chard’s biggest requirement is nitrogen, because it promotes leaf growth. After the first feeding, every two to three months use a liquid fertilizer high in nitrogen, such as fish emulsion.

* Because it doesn’t have a deep root system, chard does well in containers. Plant one plant for each 5 gallons of container. Use a high-quality potting soil with added bagged or homemade compost and fertilize monthly.

* Chard is ready to harvest about four to five weeks after transplanting. To pick, tear off outer leaves near the base of the plant. New stalks grow from the plant’s center. If you want to use the whole plant, cut it off at the base; new leaves will eventually sprout.

* When temperatures fluctuate, chard is sometimes attacked by aphids. Simply wash them off with a strong stream of water or use an insecticidal soap.

September Planting Guide

Although it’s hot and dry, it’s time to begin planting fall and winter crops. Wait until the middle of the month to put in some of the more heat-sensitive plants. While the weather remains steamy, regular watering is critical. New seedlings and transplants may need watering twice a day.

Flowers / from seed or starter plants

African daisy

Alstroemeria

Alyssum

Bachelor’s button

Bells of Ireland

Bromeliad

Calendula

Candytuft

Canterbury bell

Carnation

Chrysanthemum

Cyclamen

Delphinium

English daisy

Foxglove

Geranium

Godetia

Impatiens

Larkspur

Nasturtium

Pansy

Penstemon

Shasta daisy

Snapdragon

Stock

Sweet pea

Sweet violet

Sweet William

Vinca

Viola

Vegetables and herbs

Basil

Beet

Broccoli

Brussels sprout

Cabbage

Carrot

Caulflower

Celery

Chervil

Chives

Cilantro

Collards

Endive

Garlic

Kale

Kohlrabi

Leek

Lettuce

Mustard greens

Onion

Oregano

Oriental greens

Parsnip

Pea

Potato

Radish

Rutabaga

Spinach

Swiss chard

Rosemary

Thyme

Tomato (transplants)

Turnip

Bulbs

Bearded iris

Lily

Sparaxis

Watsonia

Researched by JULIE BAWDEN DAVIS / For The Times

Charming older homes, friendly neighbors and good prices attract residents to Wilshire Square and keep them there, said Realtor Irma Jauregui of Hacienda Realty in Santa Ana.

Most mornings on the well-maintained tree-lined streets of Wilshire Square, you’ll find residents walking together and visiting one another for coffee and breakfast, said Jauregui, who has lived in Wilshire Square since 1990.

“Many of the residents are self-employed and work at home, so it’s customary to visit one another in the morning,” she said. Some residents, like LaFont, have even built gates in their fences so that they can visit their neighbors more quickly.

The average home in Wilshire Square costs $150,000 for a three-bedroom, one-bath 1,200- to 1,300-square-foot house. On the low end there are two-bedroom, one-bath homes of 900 to 1,000 square feet for $130,000, and on the high end you’ll find three-bedroom, two-bath homes of more than 1,500 square feet for $165,000 to $170,000.

The heart of Wilshire Square is the homeowners association, which is made up of a group of dedicated residents. Unlike many associations that mandate rules and regulations, Wilshire Square’s group was created to ensure that the neighborhood retains its history and charm, said LaFont, who has served on the association’s board over the years.

Residents originally banded together to make sure that the city of Santa Ana would not remove any of the large, established trees on the streets, or tear down houses and replace them with apartment buildings, LaFont said.

Today, although the association does address minor problems such as traffic flow and dim street lighting, it mostly oversees the neighborhood’s many social events, including an annual home tour, block parties and even its first arts festival, which was held last summer. The association also produces a bimonthly newsletter, and members have monthly neighborhood meetings. They also have a gardening club.

Although the neighborhood is close-knit and many residents have lived there for years, they are open to newcomers, as Jeraldine and Mark Moralls discovered when they went house hunting a year ago.

“As we stood in the frontyard of the first home we looked at in Wilshire Square, the next-door neighbor came out of his house and welcomed us to the neighborhood,” said Jeraldine Moralls, a visual merchandiser for Macy’s in Santa Ana. “Although we told him we were just looking, by the end of the day, we had bought the house.”

“Moving into Wilshire Square has been like a dream,” said Moralls, who, with her husband, a Web page designer, bought a three-bedroom, 1 1/2-bath 1,600-square-foot house with a detached two-car garage, art studio and a small shop, for $143,000 in March 1996.

“The house is unique and was a great bargain, and we have never lived in an area where the people are so genuine and friendly,” she said. “The first weekend we were here, the next-door neighbor invited us to brunch. We met so many nice families we had to make a schematic map of the neighborhood so we could remember everyone’s names.”

Not only do residents of Wilshire Square enjoy the friendliness of the neighborhood, they also appreciate the security of living in a close-knit community.

“My neighbors look out for me,” said resident Ellen Sumrall Brief. “My alarm went off recently, and three neighbors called the police immediately.”

*

Like many residents of the community, Brief thinks that Santa Ana has gotten a bad rap with its reputation as a gang center.

Just about all of the homes in Wilshire Square are custom-built, said 25-year resident Chuck Wright, a Santa Ana schoolteacher who was the area’s unofficial historian for a number of years.

‘Red Riding Hood’ is another popular variety. It is lower growing and shrubbier than ‘Alice du Pont,’ with deep pink blooms. ‘Red Riding Hood’ makes a good hanging basket plant and blooms most of the year.

‘Scarlet pimpernel’ is another shrubbier type that has reddish-pink blooms, while ‘My Fair Lady’ has a white flower.

To grow mandevilla, keep the following in mind:

* Mandevillas tend to be sensitive to cold and frost. Plant in a warm location (such as a southern exposure), near the house protected by a roof eave or under a patio cover. A location with morning sun and afternoon shade is ideal, but mandevillas can often take full sun.

* Mandevillas require excellent drainage, especially in winter when they are susceptible to rot. Before planting, dig a hole and fill it with water. If it has not drained in two hours, the drainage is poor and you should look for another location.

When planting in the ground, amend by 50% with homemade or bagged compost and build the soil up in the immediate planting area 2 inches or higher.

* Mandevillas do well in containers. Use 2 parts high-quality potting soil with 1 part sharp sand.

* Provide the vine with support, such as a trellis or stake.

* Mandevillas bloom on new growth. Keep the plant growing well by feeding on a monthly basis with an all-purpose fertilizer.

* Mandevillas should stay evenly moist but not overly wet. Water when the topsoil has become dry.

* Though mandevillas need very little if any pruning, they can tolerate trimming if necessary. Young plants should be pinched to encourage bushiness.

* They aren’t often bothered by pests but can sometimes get aphids, whiteflies or spider mites. Treat with a fine horticultural oil.

Other pumpkins are medium-sized and make good pies, and some have smooth surfaces perfect for face-painting.

To have success growing pumpkins, keep the following tips in mind:

* Choose a sunny location with plenty of space. Giant pumpkins can grow vines that are 25 feet long, so they require a lot of room to roam. Give the larger types five feet in each direction in which to spread. Small pumpkins need the least space. They can be grown on trellises with some training.

* Pumpkins like a rich soil and good drainage. Amend by 50% with homemade or bagged compost.

* Once pumpkin plants are growing, it is impossible to weed around them without causing the plants to die back. To prevent weeds from growing and to conserve moisture, apply a 2- to 3-inch-thick compost mulch around the plants.

* Keep the pumpkin plant well watered; inadequate watering will cause it to grow slowly and become weak. Once established, most plants need a good, thorough soaking once a week.

* Feed the plant regularly with a slow-release, all-purpose vegetable fertilizer such as a 5-5-5. Don’t use fertilizers with higher numbers, because they will cause rapid leaf growth at the expense of vegetable development.

Fertilize when the plant starts growing, when it starts to vine, when it blossoms and when the blossoms set fruit.

* If you’d like to grow pumpkins in containers, your only choice is the baby pumpkins. Plant one vine in a half barrel and provide a trellis for support. Also expect a smaller yield than if you plant in the ground.

* Pumpkins are ready for harvest when the vine dies back. The longer a pumpkin is left on the vine, the sweeter it will be.

Companies that carry pumpkinseed:

* Bountiful Gardens (carries seed of pumpkins from other countries), (707) 459-6410

* W. Atlee Burpee & Co., (800) 888-1447

* Park Seed, (800) 845-3369

* Nichols Garden Nursery, (541) 928-9280

“Pesto used to be the reason why people grew basil, but now we’ve discovered that it can be added to almost anything,” Smith said. “Not only is it a great addition to tomato dishes, it also tastes good on fish, chicken, vegetables and fruit and can be eaten raw in salads. Many of the scented basils also make a nice tea, and they can be dried for potpourri.”

There are many more kinds of basils besides the traditional smooth-leafed variety. Some have ruffled leaves; others can have big or small leaves. There are even basils with striking red leaves. A number of scented basils come in a variety of flavors, including cinnamon, lemon and anise. And there are miniature basils that do well in containers.

Though it is one of the world’s more popular herbs, basil wasn’t always held in such high esteem, said Anaheim gardener Dennis Glowniak of the California Organic Gardening Club, who is this year’s Green Scene coordinator and a basil grower.

“Basil has had a mixed past,” he said. “The Greeks and early Europeans thought that it was poisonous because scorpions liked to live in the plants.”

In later years, Europeans had a change of heart when the Italians discovered basil to be a culinary delight. The herb then got a reputation as a sign of courtship and love, and in England it was even considered an aphrodisiac.

While basil enjoyed a checkered past in Europe, in Thailand the plant has always been revered. Basil grows wild there and is used in many of their national dishes.

*

To plant basil and enjoy a prolific crop, keep the following in mind:

* Wait until the soil and nighttime temperatures are 55 degrees or above to plant basil outdoors. This usually doesn’t occur until mid-May. Before this time, germinate seeds indoors. Place the pots in a warm location such as a sunny windowsill.

* Choose a location with full sun. Basil planted in shade or part sun will become leggy and not produce very many leaves per stem.

* Basil likes a rich, well-draining soil. Before planting, amend the planting site with homemade compost or bagged redwood compost at a rate of 50% compost and 50% existing soil.

* If you plant basil seed, thin to two inches apart when they reach 2 to 3 inches high.

* To ensure a steady supply of basil, sow seeds or plant new transplants every two to three weeks.

* Don’t pamper basil with too much fertilizer. Compost provides nutrients, and you can feed basil at the beginning of the growing season with an organic, balanced fertilizer, which will slowly feed the plant over the growing season.

* Keep basil well-watered, but never soggy, as it is susceptible to root rot. Generally, basil should be watered deeply about once a week. Never overhead water, as basil is susceptible to leaf diseases caused by too much moisture.

* Begin harvesting basil when the plants are about 6 inches high and have six to eight pairs of leaves. Cut each stem back to two to four remaining leaves, which will cause the plant to grow and produce more leaves.

* Prolong your basil plant’s life by not letting it start flowering, which will put it in a seed-producing mode. Once it starts producing flowers, it won’t stop, Glowniak said.

“To prevent flowering, cut each stem back to two to four leaves per stem before the stems have more than eight pairs of leaves,” he said. Each stem you cut back will form two to four new, harvestable branches in three to four weeks.

* Basil grows well in containers. Laguna Beach gardener Caroline Hoover, who is president of the Orange County Herb Society, suggests using plastic pots when growing basil because they don’t dry out as quickly as other types.

Plant in a container that is at least 5 inches in diameter and 7 inches deep. Three basil plants will do well in a half barrel. One mini basil will fill a small pot.

Depending on lender requirements, the classes can be mandatory for prospective homebuyers who want to qualify for loans of 5% down or less. Students are often given financial incentives for attending the class, such as down payment or closing cost assistance.

Given in a variety of formats, the classes are usually four to eight hours in length and held on Saturdays or in the evenings, although home study is sometimes available.

There are no rigid guidelines as to how the classes should be structured, but when finished, attendees must be proficient in how to shop for a home, how to obtain a mortgage and the responsibilities of homeownership.

The concept of home-buyers classes was devised in 1989 when Fannie Mae made a commitment to make homeownership more available to low- and moderate-income renters. Fannie Mae teamed up with several mortgage insurance companies, including GE Capital Mortgage Insurance Corp. in Raleigh, N.C.

“In return for educating consumers about homeownership, we felt we could be more flexible in terms of underwriting guidelines,” said Mike Kachel, spokesman for GE Capital.

“The home-buyers classes are designed to teach homeowners not to overextend themselves and not to purchase a home with hidden problems. So far, our portfolio of these loans has been profitable and [has] proven that education does work.”

In 1990, the home-buyers classes became available nationally and since then more than 300,000 families have benefited from the program, said Julie Gould, vice president for housing impact for Fannie Mae in Washington, D.C.

Over the last five years in the Los Angeles area alone, homes worth $3.3 billion have been sold to low- and moderate-income buyers, said Barbara Sandoval, deputy director of the Los Angeles Partnership office of Fannie Mae.

The Monzellos attended their home-buyers class at the suggestion of their real estate agent, Jim Malone.

“I refer all my first-time home buyers to the classes,” said Malone, who is with Ken Turner Real Estate in Glendora. “The program saves them money and gives them valuable information about homeownership.”

“We had talked to people about buying a home, but until we went to our first home-buying seminar and got an idea of what was really involved, it was a nebulous process in our minds,” said Tim Monzello, who attended his first home-buyers session in June 1996, and another four months later.

“Once we went to a home-buyers class, we didn’t feel like we were going into [home buying] blind anymore,” he said. “We had an understanding of things like credit needs, budgeting and the timeline involved in a loan.”

In the classes, experts discuss qualifying for a loan, covering issues such as how much house a buyer can realistically afford, the down payment, minimum income requirements, budgeting and how credit affects loan approval. Class participants also learn how the loan process works, including definitions of terms such as appraisal, escrow, underwriting, title and closing.

The typical person or couple attending a seminar is a year or two away from buying a home, said Ginger Bengochea, director of counseling and housing for Santa Ana-based Consumer Credit Counseling Service (CCCS) of Orange County.

A nationwide nonprofit agency that provides money management and debt counseling, CCCS has teamed up with Chase Manhattan Mortgage Corp. to provide free home-buying sessions throughout the United States.

By educating prospective homebuyers, “we’re trying to present alternatives to foreclosure classes, which are usually really well-attended,” Bengochea said.

“Most new home buyers could benefit from the class because home buying isn’t a skill that is taught in school,” said Cora Fulmore, director of housing for the National Foundation for Consumer Credit, in Silver Spring, Md., the national arm of CCCS.

“Potential home buyers become immobilized by such myths when they could be taking the first steps toward homeownership.”

“People lose jobs and experience debilitating illnesses, so we look at each situation individually,” she said. “If, for example, you have good credit, except for a period in 1993 when you had several late payments because you lost a job, we aren’t going to turn you down because of those late payments.”

Class participants also learn that by law they can offer an explanation after a negative comment on their credit report. “The more information we have, the better,” Dukelow said.

Some students with blemished credit discover they are better off waiting to apply for a loan. “Most people can clean up their credit in six to eight months, then apply and get a good loan, as opposed to getting a costly loan with bad credit,” Luna said.

With the dream of homeownership in mind, Chris, who lives in Newport Beach and who asked that her last name not be used, began cleaning up her credit three years ago with the help of CCCS.

Chris began charging her lifestyle on credit cards after college when she lived on her own in a metropolitan city.

“I was a small-town girl, and using credit snuck up on me,” she said. “Being of integrity, I always had intentions of catching up on my bills; however, high interest rates, lack of landing ‘that great job’ and time proved me wrong.

“I shopped for clothes, ate at the finest restaurants, went to a lot of clubs and traveled. These were luxuries I felt I deserved and could afford.”

By 1993, Chris owed eight creditors about $5,000. With budgeting guidance from CCCS, she has paid off most of her bills. Today, she has just one credit card left to pay and uses cash for most expenses. Now that she is almost free from debt, her dream of owning a home in Southern California is a more likely reality.

Chris, who works for an express transportation company and lives in a studio apartment, feels ready for a home of her own, so she attended a Mission Viejo home-buyers session.

“The class provided a lot of really useful information,” she said. “For instance, I never knew what escrow was. I knew that people get nervous and antsy at that time, but I didn’t know what it meant. I also enjoyed the information on paying attention to closing statements to make sure that you aren’t charged any unnecessary fees.”

The Monzellos also appreciated the detailed information the classes provide.

“Although our Realtor was very helpful and glad to answer any questions, at first we didn’t even know what questions to ask,” Tim Monzello said. “The seminar helped to explain everything.”

While the Monzellos never had credit problems, after attending their first home-buyers session in June 1996 and learning what it takes financially to own a home, they also adjusted their spending habits.

“After that class, we calculated our finances and determined how much house we could afford,” Karen Monzello said. “Then we cut expenses and started saving more money.”

To sock more into savings, the Monzellos made a few adjustments. Tim began bringing his lunch to work every day, they cut down on dining out and long car trips to visit family, and they slashed their gift budget. They also began scrutinizing their phone bill.

Now settled in their new home, they still have some concerns, but they feel like the home-buyers classes have made the transition much smoother.

“Although we’re a little scared about the responsibility of the mortgage and caring for a home, everything has fallen into place,” Karen Monzello said. “I think taking the home-buyers classes led us in the right direction to choose the perfect home.”

For information on new home buyers classes in your area, call Consumer Credit Counseling Service at (800) 388-2227 or Fannie Mae’s HomePath hotline at (800) 732-6643.

Many cactus flower in spring and summer, some even blooming at night and closing before morning. Night bloomers tend to be fragrant.

Most cactus grow well here, taking to the warm, mild weather. They are also very low-maintenance plants, rarely requiring pruning.

In his parents’ cactus garden, Colver installed more than 40 species and varieties of striking cactus, including a golden barrel cactus (Echinocactus grusonii), which is a dark lime green with yellow spines and, when in bloom, a yellow fuzzy top. Nearby he put a red barrel cactus (Ferocactus stainesii), which is a dark green with red spines. For height, Colver planted an 8-foot candelabra tree (Euphorbia ingens). The tall succulent has a main trunk and several branches projecting from the top.

To add to the peaceful feel, Colver installed a fountain and a bench. He and his father hauled in a number of multicolored granite rocks.

The younger Colver became interested in cactus about seven years ago, when he and his father took a camping trip to Baja, where a variety of very large cactus grow. After the trip, he began collecting large cactus, purchasing from nurseries across Southern California and special cactus plant sales.

But Colver lives in a condominium in Santa Ana and had to put them all in containers.

Eventually, many of the cactus outgrew the pots, so he approached his parents. It took about 15 months to complete the garden, although he is constantly adding new plants.

Complete landscaping with cactus isn’t necessary, Hipp said.

“I don’t suggest that people try to make their whole yard look like Phoenix,” he said. “Cactus also make really good accent pieces. They contrast well with most plants, including palms, hibiscus and bird of paradise. And they’re especially striking when in bloom.”

Although cactus tend to be low-maintenance once planted, there are a few things to keep in mind.

Contrary to popular opinion, cactus don’t require a scorching area of the garden that gets full sun all day, Hipp said.

“Even cactus in the desert are protected by rocks and other tall plants in the afternoon, or they don’t survive,” he said. “Choose a location that is warm and bright. If the cactus are containerized, make sure that the sun doesn’t hit the container all day, or the roots may cook.”

Your most important task when planting cactus is proper soil preparation. Because they originally come from areas with soil high in sand, cactus tend to rot in the heavy clay found throughout much of Orange County.

If your soil is hard clay, you must plant in raised beds or containers. Fill raised beds with sandy loam, which can be purchased at a landscape supply yard.

Colver’s parents have a hard-clay yard, so he built raised planters in order to get good drainage.

“I think the raised beds have been the key to our success,” he said. “Without good drainage, our plants would have died during the wet winter we just had.”

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To plant cactus in containers, use a ready-made cactus mix found at nurseries. Colver said he has discovered that these mixes dry out quickly, so to retain some moisture, he adds a small amount of clay soil to the mix before planting.

In general, when repotting, don’t go up more than two pot sizes. Cactus can be repotted at any time of the year.

Water cactus sparingly during their dormant months, November through February. At other times of the year cactus should be watered more frequently.

“Cactus need water during the summer months because that is their growing period, and it tends to be very dry and hot here during that time of year,” said Hipp, who suggests watering at least once a week during warm weather. Potted cactus may need more frequent watering.

Don’t go overboard with watering, however. Cactus are drought-tolerant; over-watering will cause cactus to split. Make sure that soil dries out between waterings.

Fertilize cactus monthly only during the growing period with a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium.

“Too much nitrogen will create a flabby cactus vulnerable to disease,” said Colver, who uses a flowering fertilizer that is a ratio of 0-10-10. Hipp suggests using a fertilizer that has no higher than a 10 for the first number.

To grow Queen Anne’s lace:

* Plant in a sunny or partly sunny location in an area that has good drainage.

* If the planting site has heavy clay soil, amend with 50% bagged or homemade compost.

* Fertilize at planting time with an all-purpose granular fertilizer and again just before bloom with a fertilizer high in phosphorus.

* Keep the plant well-watered and moist but never waterlogged.

* If you will be planting in a container, use a pot that is at least 14 inches wide and deep, because the flower has a long taproot. Amend the potting soil with a small amount of bagged or homemade compost. Fertilize when planting with an all-purpose granular fertilizer and twice during the growing season with a liquid fertilizer high in phosphorus.

* Encourage new blossoms and prevent the plant from going to seed by dead-heading regularly.

* Cut for indoor bouquets. Queen Anne’s lace lasts up to two weeks in water. Cut flowers when they peak.

* Preserve flowers by drying. Queen Anne’s lace dries easily. Simply hang upside down in a cool, dark area of the house until the flower head and stem are dry.

* Save your seed. Because the plants are difficult to find, let a few flower heads go to seed. Either let the seeds drop where the plant is growing and let new plants come up, or, once the flower heads are dry, cut them off, put them in a bag, shake the seeds loose and replant where you like.

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX / INFOGRAPHIC)

Seed Sources

* Ledgerwood Seeds in Carlsbad carries Ammi majus seeds. (619) 729-3282.

* Heirloom Garden Seed Co. in Guerneville, Calif., carries Daucus carota seeds. (707) 887-9129.

* Choose a sunny spot that doesn’t get too hot in the summer. Many strawberries will bake in extreme temperatures. On hot days, use shade cloth or plant tall annuals nearby such as sunflowers, corn and beans.

* Lighten the soil. Strawberries like an easy-to-work, well-draining soil. Amend generously with an organic material such as homemade or bagged compost or planter mix.

* Try containers. Pots are often a good choice for growing berries. Not only do they drain quickly, container growing gives you greater control over the soil, resulting in fewer weeds and soil-borne disease and pests.

Use a container with good drainage holes. Fill with pre-moistened potting mix and give each plant two to four inches of space.

* Use care when planting. It’s critical that you plant strawberry plants so that the crown is properly positioned. This is the thick portion in the center of each plant from which the roots extend.

Plant so that the crown is a quarter to a half-inch in the ground and a quarter to a half-inch aboveground. You’re usually safe if you plant established plants at exactly the same level you find them in containers. Once planted, firm soil around roots well.

* Try bare-root plants when possible. Buying bare-root provides you with an inexpensive means of planting many berry plants. These dormant plants have been dug from growing fields and had most of their soil removed. They are a real bargain, costing just pennies apiece.

* Fertilize regularly. Strawberries are heavy feeders. Give plants a strong start by adding nitrogen to the ground before planting. Some good organic, slow-release nitrogen fertilizers to add include blood meal, bat guano or a high nitrogen bone meal.

When the plants flower, fertilize again with bone meal, which will provide necessary phosphorus and potassium. Don’t feed plants much nitrogen at this point or you’ll get excessive leaf growth and no fruit. Fertilize in-ground plants once a month and container plants every two weeks.

A variety of area nurseries have strawberry plants in stock, including Laguna Nursery in Laguna; Laguna Hills Nursery in Lake Forest; Armstrong Garden Center in Santa Ana; M&M Nursery in Orange; and Kitano’s Garden Center in La Palma. M&M and Kitano’s have bare-root.